Antonio Mcgowan
When shopping for a new perfume, it's important to know the different scent families and how to experience a perfume properly. The four main scent families are floral, oriental, woody, and fresh, with each family having distinctive characteristics. For example, floral fragrances are sweet and flowery, while oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and sometimes spicy. Fresh fragrances usually comprise aquatic and
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Scent Families | Floral, Oriental, Woody, Fresh |
| Subfamilies | Floral Oriental, Soft Oriental, Woody Oriental, Aromatic Fougère |
| Top Notes | Citrus, Lavender, Banana, Wine, Almond |
| Middle Notes | Not specified, but these are the main body of the fragrance |
| Base Notes | Not specified, but these are the longest-lasting notes |
| Strengths | Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, Eau Fraiche |
| Skin Types | LOVING, CALMING, ENERGIZING, PERFUME-FREE |
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What You'll Learn
Know the fragrance wheel and scent families
The fragrance wheel is a useful tool that helps you understand how different scents belong to certain families and how these scents can work together. The modern fragrance wheel was created by the perfume expert Michael Edwards in 1992. The wheel represents conventional and dynamic fragrances and how humans perceive them. Each family consists of a prominent scent, while the sub-families are blended versions of these fragrances.
The four main scent families are Floral, Oriental, Woody, and Fresh, each with its own subfamilies. A scent family has distinctive characteristics, and individuals often gravitate towards one scent family over another when choosing a personal fragrance. Floral fragrances, for example, are one of the most popular families, and one of the broadest. Any fragrance that has a sweet and flowery scent will belong to this family, using notes such as roses, jasmine, lilies, and peonies. Floral fragrances can range from being light and delicate to more complex and intense. They are perfect for spring and summertime and are mostly used in women's fragrances, although they are occasionally used in men's fragrances as well.
Oriental fragrances, on the other hand, are warm, sweet, and sometimes a little spicy. They are a more luxurious fragrance family, varying from floral oriental, soft oriental, and woody oriental. Perfumes in this family are rich and sensual, often made with interesting notes of cardamom, cinnamon, and vanilla, alongside flowers like jasmine, orchid, and orange blossom. Oriental fragrances often complement water notes.
The Fresh family usually comprises citrus, water, and green notes, providing refreshing, vibrant, and uplifting smells. Citrus notes include ancient ingredients like resins and modern variations like grapefruit and yuzu. Green fragrances are often herbal and leafy, sometimes referred to as aromatic fougère fragrances, created with notes of lavender, rosemary, or basil.
Woody fragrances are one of the main families, but information on this family is limited.
Using the fragrance wheel, you can determine which notes and scents complement each other. Fragrance sub-families that are side by side on the wheel will almost always blend well. You can also choose a sub-family and see which note is across from it on the wheel, as these notes are complementary. For instance, soft oriental pairs well with citrus, and floral oriental blends nicely with mossy and water notes.
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Understand top, middle and base notes
When shopping for perfumes, it is important to understand the different notes that make up the scent. All perfumes have three distinct notes: top, middle, and base notes, also known as the "olfactory trifecta" or "olfactory pyramid". Each note has a specific function and works together to create a complete fragrance.
The top notes, also known as head or opening notes, are the first thing you smell when you spray a perfume. They evaporate quickly and form the first impression of the fragrance. These notes are usually associated with freshness and can be quite sharp. Common ingredients in top notes include citrus fruits, green notes such as lavender, rosemary, or basil, and fruity scents.
The middle notes, also called the "heart" of the scent, appear once the top notes have disappeared. They are considered the main body of the fragrance and last longer than the top notes. Middle notes act as a liaison between the top and base notes, working together with the base notes to deepen the top note and create a multidimensional aroma.
The base notes are what is left at the end of the fragrance. They are the longest-lasting notes and mix with the middle notes to create the full body of the perfume. Base notes are often deep and warm ingredients such as woody, balsamic, or musky notes, providing lasting power to the fragrance. Common base notes include vanilla, musk, and some woods.
It is important to note that all three types of notes are present together when a fragrance is first sprayed, and they evaporate at their own pace according to their specific vapor pressure. This means that each molecule has its own evaporation curve, with some notes lasting only a few minutes and others remaining for weeks.
Understanding the different notes in a perfume can help you make a more informed choice when shopping for a fragrance. It allows you to appreciate the complexity and evolution of the scent, from its first impression to its lasting impression on your skin.
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Know your skin type
Knowing your skin type is crucial when choosing a perfume. Perfumes interact with your skin's natural oils, so the same perfume can smell different on different people. For example, people with dry skin may find that perfumes don't last as long on them, while those with oily skin may find that perfumes smell stronger and linger longer.
If you have dry skin, look for perfumes with base notes that are rich and creamy, like vanilla, sandalwood, or musk. These notes will help to moisturize your skin and make the scent last longer. You can also try layering your perfume with a complementary scented lotion to make it last longer.
On the other hand, if you have oily skin, opt for lighter, fresher perfumes with citrus or aquatic notes. These will blend better with your skin's natural oils and create a more balanced scent. Avoid strong, heavy perfumes, as they may become overpowering.
For those with sensitive skin, it's important to choose perfumes that are free from common irritants like synthetic fragrances, alcohol, and certain essential oils. Look for perfumes that are labelled as hypoallergenic or made with natural, organic ingredients. You can also do a patch test before committing to a new perfume by spraying a small amount on your inner arm and waiting 24 hours to see if any irritation occurs.
Lastly, if you're not sure what your skin type is, or if you have combination skin, it's best to opt for a versatile perfume that falls somewhere in the middle of the fragrance spectrum. Look for perfumes with a balanced blend of fresh and warm notes, or floral and woody notes. This way, you can be sure that your perfume will complement your skin's natural scent, whatever your skin type may be.
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Use scent blotters
When perfume shopping, it is important to use scent blotters, also known as scent strips or mouillettes in French, to test a fragrance. This is a better alternative to spraying the perfume directly onto your skin, as the scent on the blotter will slightly differ from the scent on your skin.
To use scent blotters effectively, follow these steps:
- Ensure you are in a clean environment, free from distracting scents like perfume, cologne, chemical smells, food, or tobacco. A room with sufficient fresh air is ideal.
- Use one blotter strip for each fragrance and label them accordingly.
- Bend the tip of the blotter at the second line to prevent the scent from being compromised or getting fragrance oil on your work surface.
- Dip the blotter strip into the bottle up to the first line.
- Allow the strip to dry for around 10 seconds before smelling.
- Hold the blotter about an inch away from your nose and smell to evaluate the fragrance.
- If testing multiple fragrances, use a third blotter dipped in a strong, different aroma to help your nose "forget" the previous scent and resensitize for the next one.
By using scent blotters, you can analyze the full character of a scent, including its middle and base notes, providing a truer impression of the fragrance.
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Learn about different fragrance types and their longevity
When shopping for a fragrance, it is important to understand the different scent families and their longevity. The four main fragrance families are warm, woody, oriental, and fresh.
Fresh fragrances usually comprise aquatic, citrus, and green notes, resulting in refreshing, zesty, and vibrant smells. Citrus notes include ancient ingredients like resins, verbena, and lemongrass, as well as more modern variations like pomelo, grapefruit, yuzu, and hassaku. Green fragrances, also known as aromatic fougère, often include notes of lavender, rosemary, or basil.
Woody fragrances are warm and captivating, often favoured for evening wear. They include wood-based smells like cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, and amber. Woody fragrances can be further divided into mossy woods with an earthy, sweet undertone, and dry woods with a smoky, leathery smell.
Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and sometimes spicy. They are considered a luxurious fragrance family, including variations like floral oriental, soft oriental, and woody oriental. Oriental fragrances often include notes of cardamom, cinnamon, and vanilla, alongside floral notes like jasmine, orchid, and orange blossom.
Within these fragrance families, there are different types of perfumes that denote strength and longevity. The longevity of a fragrance is influenced by its concentration of fragrance oils, with higher concentrations typically lasting longer. Here are some common types of perfumes and their expected longevity:
- Eau de Cologne (EDC) - Contains 2-4% perfume oil. Typically lasts around 2-3 hours and is used as a body splash to freshen up.
- Eau Fraiche - Contains 1-3% perfume oil. Lasts for a couple of hours at best and is perfect for creating a subtle, delicate fragrance.
- Eau de Toilette (EDT) - Contains 5-15% perfume oil. Offers a quick burst of scent, lasting between 4 and 7 hours.
- Eau de Parfum (EDP) - Contains 10-20% perfume oil. Lasts around 6 to 8 hours, making it suitable for day-to-day wear and special occasions.
- Parfum/Extrait de Parfum - Contains the highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically between 20-40%. Can last up to 24 hours on the skin.
It is important to note that the longevity of a fragrance can also be influenced by individual factors such as skin type, hormones, weather conditions, and level of activity.
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Frequently asked questions
The four main fragrance families are Floral, Oriental, Woody, and Fresh, each with its own unique characteristics and subfamilies. Floral fragrances are sweet and flowery, and can range from light and delicate to intense. Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and spicy, with notes like cardamom, cinnamon, vanilla, jasmine, and orange blossom. Woody fragrances are typically earthy and musky. Fresh fragrances usually have aquatic and citrus notes, with vibrant and zesty smells.
A perfume is composed of top, middle, and base notes. Top notes, also known as head notes, are the first impression of the fragrance and evaporate quickly. Middle notes, or heart notes, appear after the top notes disappear and form the main body of the fragrance. Base notes are what is left at the end and are the longest-lasting.
Common top notes include citrus fruits like grapefruit, yuzu, and lemon, as well as floral notes like roses and lavender.
Heart notes vary depending on the fragrance family but can include spices like cinnamon and cardamom, as well as floral notes like jasmine and orchid.
When smelling a new perfume, it is recommended to use a scent blotter, which is a white cardboard strip intended for smelling perfume fragrances. Spray the perfume two or three times towards the blotter and allow it to absorb before lifting it to your nose.
