Cologne Shopping: A Guide To Knowing The Basics

Choosing a cologne can be a daunting task, especially with the myriad of options available on the market. However, selecting a fragrance that suits you is an art that can be mastered with a few simple tips. Firstly, it is crucial to understand that colognes interact with your skin chemistry, altering the scent. Therefore, testing colognes on your skin is essential before committing to a purchase. Exploring smaller brands is also advisable, as they often focus solely on creating high-quality fragrances. Understanding the different notes of a cologne, such as top, middle, and base notes, can help you make an informed decision. These notes work together to create a unique and appealing fragrance, so it's important to assess how well they combine. Additionally, taking someone scent shopping with you can provide valuable feedback and ensure the cologne suits your skin. Lastly, don't be afraid to ask others about their favourite scents and take your time to try different options before settling on your signature scent.

Test it on your skin

Testing cologne on your skin is an essential step in the process of buying a new fragrance. Your skin chemistry interacts with the cologne, changing the scent from what it smells like straight out of the bottle. Therefore, you must test it on your skin to ensure you still love it after application. Ask for a take-home sample if possible, as the scent can change throughout the day.

When testing cologne, it is important to remember that the fragrance will have different notes that emerge over time. The top note is the initial smell that hits the nose immediately after application and lasts from 15 minutes to 2 hours. The middle note develops after the top note and can last from 20 minutes to an hour after spraying. The base note is the last to develop and is often the bolder note that becomes more noticeable later in the day. It is important to try to smell all the notes when testing a cologne, as you want to ensure you like how the fragrance evolves.

When testing cologne on your skin, it is recommended to spray one scent on each wrist and each inner elbow (or two scents total, one on each wrist, if you are just starting out). Avoid smelling the cologne on the paper cards provided by department stores, as these only allow you to smell the top notes. Instead, walk around the store and smell the fragrances on your skin at various intervals. Take notes on your phone or journal about which fragrances you like and why.

It is also important to refresh your palate with something strong, like coffee or tea, between smelling different colognes. This will help you distinguish the different scents and ensure you are making an informed decision about which fragrance is right for you.

Learn the notes

Perfumers have their own language when describing how their fragrances smell. It's straightforward and simple to learn. "Notes" in perfumer language refer to scents that can be sensed upon the application of a fragrance. There are three types of notes: top, middle, and base (also referred to as head, heart, and base).

The top note is the initial, lighter smell of the fragrance that hits the nose immediately after application to the skin. It has the strongest smell and will evaporate completely within as little as five minutes after application. It'll very rarely last past 30 minutes, as it's always made out of molecules that evaporate quickly. Typical top notes include various light floral scents, citrus, fruity scents, powdery scents, marines and aquatics, and spices such as cinnamon.

The middle note is sensed a bit later, anywhere from 20 minutes to an hour after application, and can last up to an hour. They are much more mellow than the top notes. Middle notes most often include heavier floral scents such as jasmine, or green scents such as grass or stone. Spice scents such as cinnamon and clove can also appear here, along with fruity scents.

The base note is what carries the fragrance through the day. It is the foundation of the scent and will determine how long the fragrance lasts on your skin. They tend to last from 5 to 10 hours. Typical base notes are sandalwood, moss, vetiver, vanilla, tar, leather, smoke, tobacco, and musk.

It's important to note that each cologne is made with these three notes, and it's crucial to assess how well each note combines with the others. One unpleasant middle note can ruin a great top note, and vice versa.

Now that you understand the different notes and their functions, you can easily understand the different male fragrance "families." Although there are many "families" of fragrances, there are four main families that speak to how the fragrance smells (let's call this the "four families of how"), and four main families that speak to how long the scent lasts (let's call these the "four families of longevity").

The 4 Families of How

• Fresh: This family includes fresh grass, oceanic, citrusy, and fruity notes. You will find these notes in both male and female fragrances.
• Woody: This family includes woody, sandalwood, cedarwood, oak, and leather notes. It is a clearly masculine note and the safest route if you are searching for an obviously male fragrance.
• Floral: Almost all feminine fragrances are floral and include one or more flower groupings. There are a couple of male fragrances with some floral notes, but the advice is to stay away from floral scents.
• Oriental: This is the most gender-neutral family. Oriental includes notes like vanilla bean or frankincense, which are unassociated with a specific gender.

The 4 Families of Longevity

• Eau de Cologne: This is the shortest-lasting fragrance and evaporates after just 2 hours since it has less than 5% of essential oils.
• Eau de toilette: This fragrance is made with a higher concentration of essential oils and lasts a couple of hours longer than Eau de Cologne, with a minimum of 3-5 hours of life.
• Eau de parfum: This fragrance contains around 15% essential oils and lasts for around 7-8 hours.
• Parfum: This is the strongest and longest-lasting fragrance, typically composed of 25% or more essential oils, and lasting for 24 hours or more.

Understand fragrance families

When it comes to choosing a cologne, it's important to understand the different fragrance families and their characteristics. While there are numerous fragrance families, four main families define how the fragrance smells: Fresh, Woody, Floral, and Oriental.

The Fresh family includes notes reminiscent of grass, the ocean, citrus fruits, and other fruits. These fragrances are often light and crisp, providing a clean and invigorating scent. This family is suitable for both men and women, offering a versatile option.

The Woody family, on the other hand, is more masculine in nature, featuring notes of sandalwood, cedarwood, oak, and leather. These fragrances evoke a sense of warmth and earthiness, providing a robust and confident aroma.

Floral fragrances, as the name suggests, are predominantly composed of floral notes. While these fragrances are typically associated with women, some men's colognes incorporate subtle floral notes, adding a delicate and refined touch.

Oriental fragrances are the most gender-neutral of the four families. They often include notes such as vanilla bean and frankincense, creating a balanced and enigmatic aroma. These fragrances are versatile and adaptable, suitable for a wide range of preferences.

In addition to these four main families, it's worth noting that there are numerous sub-families and combinations. The fragrance world is vast, and exploring these different families can be an enjoyable journey of discovery.

When selecting a cologne, consider the impression you want to make and the emotions you want to evoke. Do you want a crisp and invigorating scent, a warm and earthy aroma, or something more enigmatic and versatile? Understanding the fragrance families will help you navigate the wide range of options and make a choice that suits your personality and preferences.

Additionally, consider the seasonality of the fragrance. Certain notes are more suitable for specific times of the year. For example, warming tobacco, leather, or spice notes are perfect for winter, while green and aquatic notes are ideal for summer. Attaching different fragrances to different seasons can also add variety to your scent wardrobe.

Lastly, don't be afraid to explore and experiment. While the four main fragrance families provide a solid foundation, there are countless other options to discover. By understanding the core notes and their combinations, you can find a cologne that truly resonates with your unique personality and style.

Ask for opinions

Asking for opinions is an important step in choosing a cologne. While you may be the best person to determine which scent suits you, it is still helpful to ask for other people's opinions.

Perfume expert Clayton Ilolahia advises that if you are not confident about buying fragrances for yourself, you should listen to the salesperson's advice and ask your close friends for their opinions. However, he stresses that ultimately, you have to love the fragrance you are wearing. If in doubt, don't buy it.

It is also worth noting that scientific studies suggest that a man can naturally select the cologne that works best with his natural body scent. Therefore, while you can ask for opinions, you are still the best judge of which cologne is right for you.

When asking for opinions, it is best to try the cologne first and ask for feedback. Department stores are great for this purpose, but make sure you don't buy until you are ready. The maximum number of scents to try at once is four, but if you are just starting out, it is recommended to try only two (one on each arm).

Spray one scent on each wrist (and each inner elbow if going for four). Avoid the cards department stores provide to smell the colognes, as they only allow you to smell the top notes and not how it smells on you. Walk around the store and smell the fragrances at various intervals. Take notes on your phone or journal about which ones you like and why.

It is also worth considering that while you may want to ask for opinions, you don't necessarily have to follow the crowd. Niche fragrances are made from more expensive/higher-quality ingredients and are created by industry artists. They are made for a more selective customer who wishes to wear something distinctively bold or unique. These fragrances will not always have universal appeal, and they accept that not everyone will like their bold scents.

Know the classics

Knowing the classics is an important step in choosing a cologne. The classics provide a framework for choosing a scent, and they offer a killer roster of scents to pick from.

One classic is the aromatic fougère fragrance. This fragrance family includes scents like Yves Saint Laurent Jazz and Tom Ford's Fougère d'Argent. If you want to feel confident and put together, this is a good family of fragrances to explore.

Another classic is the oriental family of fragrances, which includes notes like vanilla bean and frankincense. These scents are the most gender-neutral of all the different families.

The woody family is another classic, with notes of sandalwood, cedarwood, oak, and leather. This is a clearly masculine note and a safe route if you are searching for an obviously male fragrance.

The fresh family is also a classic, with notes of fresh grass, oceanic, citrusy, and fruity. These notes can be found in both male and female fragrances.

Frequently asked questions