Katrina Rosales
Fragrances are substances with strong-smelling organic compounds that have distinct, pleasant odors. They are used in a variety of products, including perfumes, cosmetics, and household goods. The term perfume emerged in the late 19th century, with the first fragrance labeled as a parfum extract being Guerlain's Jicky in 1889. Perfumes are classified into different groups based on their concentration of aromatic compounds, with the higher the concentration, the longer the scent will last. The scent of a perfume also changes throughout the day due to its top, heart, and base notes, as well as the chemistry of the wearer's skin. While fragrances can boost confidence and mood, some ingredients may cause adverse health effects, such as allergic reactions and respiratory issues.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fragrance Notes | Top, Heart/Middle, and Base |
| Top Notes | Scents detected first after spraying, usually light and fresh, e.g. citrus, light florals, herbs |
| Heart/Middle Notes | Appear as top notes fade, last longer, full-bodied and aromatic, e.g. jasmine, cinnamon, pine |
| Base Notes | Rich, heavy, long-lasting, kick in after 30 minutes, linger for 6+ hours, e.g. woody, musky |
| Concentration Types | Parfum/Extrait, Esprit de Parfum, Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, Eau Fraiche |
| Concentration % | Parfum: 15-40%, Eau de Parfum: 10-20%, Eau de Toilette: 5-15%, Eau de Cologne: 3-8%, Eau Fraiche: 1-3% |
| Longevity | Parfum: 8-24 hours, Eau de Parfum: 6 hours, Eau de Toilette: a few years, Eau de Cologne: 2 hours, Eau Fraiche: 1 hour |
| Health Concerns | Potential asthma and allergy issues, dermatitis, nausea, headaches |
| Storage | Keep upright, in a dark place, avoid humidity and temperature changes |
| Expiry | Use within 3-5 years, fragrance may change over time |
| History | Egyptians first used perfume, Islamic Spain and Hungary Water also significant |
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What You'll Learn
Fragrance notes
Fragrances are made up of layers of individual scents, known as fragrance notes. These notes are the building blocks of a fragrance and contribute to its overall scent profile. Fragrance notes are typically categorised into three main types: top notes, heart or middle notes, and base notes. Each note plays a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity, with the careful selection of each note ensuring the fragrance smells pleasant and evokes a certain experience.
Top notes, sometimes referred to as head notes, form the top layer of a fragrance. They are the scents detected first after spraying a perfume, setting the first impression and shaping the fragrance's story. Top notes usually consist of lighter and smaller molecules with a strong, fresh scent that evaporates quickly, lingering for only the first five to thirty minutes. Common top notes include citrus scents such as lemon and orange, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose. Basil and anise are also commonly used as top notes.
Heart notes, also known as middle notes, make up the "heart" or core of the fragrance. They appear as the top notes start to fade and remain evident for the full life of the fragrance. Heart notes are usually full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, geranium, neroli, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices such as cinnamon, pepper, and cardamom. They have a more mellow, rounded, and balancing scent that masks any unpleasant initial impression of the base note.
Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance, adding depth and resonance. They kick in about 30 minutes after application and work together with the middle notes to create the fragrance's scent. Since base notes sink into the skin, their scent lingers the longest, lasting for six hours or more. Base notes are rich and heavy, and typical examples include woody and musky scents.
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Fragrance types
The fragrance you choose depends on several factors, including the intensity, the scent bubble, and how long you want it to last. There are several types of fragrances, and understanding the differences between them can help you choose the perfect scent.
The first step to finding your favourite fragrance is to understand the different scent families that every scent is based on. The four main types are warm, woody, oriental/amber, and fresh, with each effect brought out by different combinations of fragrances. Woody fragrances, for example, are warm and opulent, mixing incense-like fragrances like sandalwood and patchouli with drier notes like cedar. Fresh fragrances usually comprise citrus, water, and green notes.
The next step is to understand the different categories of perfumes, which are differentiated by their concentrations of fragrance oils. The majority of perfumes are either an eau de parfum or an eau de toilette in their concentration levels. The strength of a perfume refers to the concentration of fragrance oils in the fragrance. The higher the concentration of oils, the longer the scent will last on your skin, and the higher the price point.
Perfume or parfum has the highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically between 20-30%, and can last 12+ hours. Eau de parfum contains a high concentration of oil, around 15-20%, and usually lasts between five to eight hours. Eau de toilette has a lower concentration of oil, between 5-15%, and can last between three to seven hours. Eau de cologne has a low concentration of oil, between 2-5%, and lasts for around two to three hours. Finally, the most diluted version of a fragrance is the body mist or eau fraiche, with a maximum of 5% perfume oil and a modest longevity of one to three hours.
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Fragrance history
The history of fragrances and perfumery is a long and fascinating one, dating back thousands of years. The use of fragrances has been recorded in ancient civilisations such as Egypt, Greece, Rome, Persia, and the Indus Valley.
In ancient Egypt, dating back to 3300 BCE, fragrances were used as a social status symbol and in religious ceremonies. Scents like incense and myrrh were commonly used, and the Egyptians also began trading raw materials for perfume. Ancient Greeks and Romans extracted perfumes from diverse sources such as flowers, woods, seeds, and roots, using oils as the base for their perfumes. Theophrastos, Pliny the Elder, and Dioskourides all documented the art of perfumery, with Pliny the Elder describing the basic ingredients and methods of perfume-making in his "Naturalis Historia".
The Islamic world, including Persian and Arab cultures, made significant contributions to the development of perfumery. They perfected the extraction of fragrances through steam distillation and introduced new raw materials such as musk, amber, and rose. Islamic-controlled cities in Spain, such as Al-Andalus, became major producers of perfumes, and the Hungarians produced a perfume known as Hungary Water, which was used by Queen Elizabeth of Hungary around 1371.
In the 17th century, the western perfumery industry took off, with perfumed gloves becoming popular in France. The guild of glove and perfume-makers was established in 1656. The 18th century saw the rise of "la cour parfumée" (the perfumed court) of Louis XV, who demanded a different fragrance for his apartment every day.
The late 19th century marked the birth of "modern" perfumery with the creation of synthetic ingredients and the emergence of famous perfume houses like Coty, Guerlain, and Roger & Gallet. The first fragrance labelled as a "parfum" extract was Guerlain's Jicky in 1889. Coco Chanel's No. 5 cemented the trend of "designer" perfumes, and Estée Lauder's Youth Dew in the 1950s popularised the idea of wearing perfume as an everyday pleasure.
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Health and environmental concerns
Fragrances are linked to a range of health risks, and can be particularly harmful to those with allergies or pre-existing conditions like asthma or COPD. Fragrances can cause coughing, sneezing, and other allergic reactions, and can also trigger asthma symptoms. In fact, according to one source, 34.7% of a surveyed population reported health problems such as migraine headaches and respiratory difficulties when exposed to fragranced products.
The average adult uses 12 personal care products a day, and fragrances are found in many of these, including perfumes, colognes, air fresheners, soaps, shampoos, deodorants, laundry detergents, dryer sheets, bug sprays, and e-cigarettes. Fragrances can also be found in cleaning products, and these are some of the most notorious when it comes to toxic fragrances.
Fragrance chemicals are rarely listed on the ingredients label, as companies are not required to disclose them because they are considered trade secrets. However, fragrances can contain a mix of more than 3,500 different chemicals, some of which are toxic. These include phthalates, which are endocrine disruptors and can be found in the blood of most Americans, and styrene, which is linked to cancer. Fragrances can also contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which have been linked to ozone pollution and the creation of fine particulates.
To avoid exposure to toxic chemicals in fragrances, the Environmental Working Group advises consumers to read the word "fragrance" or "parfum" on a label as a warning that the product contains hidden chemicals. They recommend choosing fragrance-free products instead. Some products bearing the EWG VERIFIED® mark are an exception, as this means a product is free from EWG chemicals of concern.
In addition to the health concerns, fragrances also pose environmental risks. Fragrance chemicals are a source of indoor and outdoor air pollution, and can negatively impact the atmosphere and human health.
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Fragrance regulation
IFRA members are kept informed about evolving legislation and are actively engaged in the legislative process. They collaborate with governmental departments and stakeholders along the supply chain to ensure that the industry's perspective is considered in policymaking. This proactive approach helps maintain a dynamic and competitive fragrance industry that prioritises consumer safety and choice.
One of the key regulatory frameworks for the fragrance industry is the European Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008, also known as the CLP Regulation (Classification, Labelling, and Packaging). This regulation standardises the classification, labelling, and packaging of substances and mixtures across all EU member states, including the UK. It empowers consumers by providing transparent information about the products they purchase.
In addition to the CLP Regulation, the fragrance industry is subject to other legislation, including that surrounding Intellectual Property, Occupational Health & Safety, and the Environment. The Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation and restriction of Chemicals (REACH) is another critical piece of legislation, ensuring the safe use of chemicals in various products.
Furthermore, the IFRA has developed its own set of standards, known as the IFRA Standards, which have guided the safe use of fragrances for four decades. These standards are developed in partnership with members and stakeholders and are recognised by government authorities and trade bodies worldwide. The IFRA Standards ban, limit, or set criteria for specific ingredients based on scientific evidence and consumer insights, providing a robust framework for the fragrance industry to operate within.
While fragrance regulations are essential, it is worth noting that the impact of fragrances on human health and the environment is still being actively researched, and there is much left to discover. As such, regulatory bodies like the IFRA and legislative frameworks are pivotal in ensuring the safe and sustainable use of fragrances.
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Frequently asked questions
Fragrance notes are the individual scent layers of ingredients that make up a fragrance. They are typically categorized into three types: top notes, heart notes (or middle/mid notes), and base notes. Each note plays a specific role in the fragrance's development and how long it lasts.
Top notes are the scents you detect first after spraying a perfume. They usually evaporate quickly, lingering for only the first five to fifteen minutes. Some common top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose.
Heart notes appear as the top notes start to fade and they last for the full life of the fragrance. Examples of heart notes include full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, geranium, neroli, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices like cinnamon, pepper, and cardamom.
Base notes are the scents that last the longest and are the ones you remember most. They kick in about 30 minutes after application and work together with the middle notes to create the fragrance's scent. Examples of base notes include woody and musky scents.
The difference lies in the concentration of pure perfume oil within the fragrance. Eau de Parfum typically has a concentration of 15%, while Parfum has a concentration of over 20%. Parfum will, therefore, last significantly longer on your skin than Eau de Parfum.
