The Science Of Scents: Popular Colognes Decoded

Colognes are typically marketed towards men, and they contain a lower amount of fragrance oil in their compositions than perfumes. Colognes are usually formulated with 2-4% fragrance oil, while perfumes contain around 20%. This means that colognes are lighter and less concentrated than perfumes, and they don't last as long.

The four main fragrance families are fresh, woody, amber, and floral, and colognes can contain notes from any of these categories. Popular colognes often include woody notes such as cedarwood, sandalwood, and vetiver, as well as citrus notes like bergamot, lemon, and grapefruit. Other common notes include lavender, patchouli, vanilla, and tobacco.

When choosing a cologne, it's important to consider factors such as the concentration of fragrance oil, the quality of the ingredients, and your body chemistry, as the same cologne can smell different on different people.

Citrus scents

Citrus fragrances are characterised by their crisp, zesty character and an uplifting, energising appeal. They are usually created with lemon, mandarin, and bergamot, and can be found across colognes, bath and body luxuries, and home scents, including room sprays and body and hand lotions.

• Chanel Bleu de Chanel: This cologne includes notes of citrus, labdanum, sandalwood, and cedar. It's fresh, clean, and sensual, making it perfect for transitioning from day to night.
• Dior Sauvage: Inspired by nature, this cologne has warm notes of bergamot, pepper, and amberwood. It's earthy and woody, taking cues from a desert landscape.
• Ralph Lauren Polo Black: A bold fusion of iced mango, lemon, and tangerine, combined with sandalwood, sage, and patchouli noir for a bittersweet fragrance.
• Hugo Boss Boss: A cult classic, this cologne has fruity and citrus top notes of apple, lemon, and plum balanced with a floral and spicy base.
• Giorgio Armani Acqua di Gio: An earthy fragrance combining cyprus, musk, bergamot, neroli, rosemary, and patchouli for a fresh finish.
• Versace Eros: A fresh and tropical scent with notes of mint, orange, and woody vanilla.
• Acqua di Parma Colonia: A fresh and citrusy scent with key notes of lemon, bergamot, lavender, and patchouli.

Woody notes

Woody fragrances are warm, mysterious, and captivating, making them a popular choice for aftershaves. They are often favoured for evening wear, with scent notes derived from cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, and amber. Woody fragrances can be split into two categories: mossy woods, with an earthy, sweet undertone, and dry woods, which have a smoky, leathery smell.

Terre d'Hermes Parfum by Hermes

Terre d'Hermes Parfum has a cult-like following among fragrance collectors due to its addictive woody, spicy, and earthy notes. It opens with strong and potent notes of grapefruit and dries down with firm notes of vetiver and flint, ending with base notes of oak moss and benzoin. It has good longevity, lasting around 4-6 hours on the skin.

Masculin Pluriel by Maison Francis Kurkdjian

Masculin Pluriel combines lavender, patchouli, vetiver, and wood, with a notable lack of spice. It smells expensive and has great performance, with outstanding sillage and projection of up to 3 metres. It lasts all day on clothes and around 6 hours on the skin.

Gentleman Society by Givenchy

Gentleman Society is a woody and aromatic fragrance with initial notes of cardamom and sage, followed by two varieties of vetiver from Haiti and Madagascar. The base notes are vanilla, palo santo, and cedar. It is a perfect choice for men looking for a fragrance to wear every day.

Endymion by Penhaligon's

Endymion is a woody fragrance with a fresh take on the interplay between coffee and lavender, balanced by woody base notes. It has great performance, with a longevity of around 4-6 hours on the skin and a little more on clothes. It is best suited for older men as it lacks citrusy notes.

Philosykos by Diptyque

Philosykos is a luxurious and hyper-realistic recreation of a ripe fig, balanced by middle notes of coconut and woody cedar. It has good projection for its price, with a longevity of around 4 hours on the skin.

Wonderwood by Comme Des Garcons

Wonderwood is an extremely spicy fragrance with notes of vetiver, sandalwood, Virginia cedar, and cypress. It is a distinctive scent that is great for everyday wear and has excellent performance and scent on the skin. However, it does not last long, turning into a skin scent after 2 hours.

Bleu Noir for Him Parfum by Narciso Rodriguez

Bleu Noir is uncomplicated and soft, with a creamy texture. It has a subtle and versatile scent, with Narciso Rodriguez's musk signature rounded off by vetiver, amber, cardamom, citrus, and cedar. It has outstanding performance, with a longevity of more than 8 hours and great projection.

Santal 33 by Le Labo

Santal 33 is a unisex fragrance with a rich, spicy scent that has warm notes of cardamom, violet accord, iris, and ambrox, and a base of cedarwood, sandalwood, and leather. It is a trendy fragrance with good performance and is suitable for day or night wear.

Oud Wood by Tom Ford

Oud Wood is a clean, citrusy, and refreshing woody scent, featuring three different types of vetiver, along with orange blossom and saffron. It is a luxurious and supremely masculine fragrance with great performance, lasting 6-8 hours.

Spicy fragrances

Best Spicy Colognes

• Best Spicy Scent Overall: Comme des Garçons “Blackpepper” combines incense, leather, licorice, and musk with its namesake ingredient for a sophisticated, mysterious, and approachable scent.
• Best for Spring and Summer: Valentino “Born in Roma Yellow Dream” is a sweet-but-spicy blend of ginger, pineapple, cedar, and mandarin that pays tribute to the brand's Italian hometown.
• Best for Fall and Winter: Parfums de Marly “Althaïr” is a delicious, almost edible blend of cardamom, cinnamon, praline, musk, and vanilla, with the latter two notes elevating it above most other vanilla-based fragrances.
• Best for Date Night: Guerlain “Epices Exquises” is like an espresso shot for the senses, with spiced coffee and smoky musk notes that make for a seriously alluring fragrance.
• Best for the Office: Acqua di Parma “Zafferano” is a conversation-starting, unisex scent with saffron, bergamot, coriander, geranium, and wood notes that wear lightly, so as not to dominate a room.
• Best Floral Spicy Scent: Etat Libre d'Orange "Spice Must Flow" combines ginger, cardamom, incense, and Turkish rose for a cold-weather floral fragrance that men should wear more often.
• Best Classic Spicy Scent: Calvin Klein "Obsession for Men" is a legend in the scents game, harmonizing cinnamon, coriander, myrrh, nutmeg, vanilla, musk, and amber for a sultry but safe fragrance.
• Most Powerful Spicy Scent: Aesop "Marrakech Intense" evokes the stunning sensory overload of a Moroccan spice market with cardamom, clove, and sandalwood notes that are evened out by a supporting cast of floral and citrus notes.
• Best Black Tie Spicy Scent: Kilian "Intoxicated" is a debonair and sumptuous blend of cardamom, coffee, and nutmeg that is perfect for date nights or VIP buttoned-up affairs.

Other Notable Spicy Colognes:

• Dior Sauvage: A nature-inspired, earthy, and woody scent with notes of bergamot, pepper, and amberwood.
• Ralph Lauren Polo Black: A bold and aromatic fusion of iced mango, lemon, tangerine, sandalwood, sage, and patchouli noir.
• Maison Margiela Replica Jazz Club: A warm and spicy scent with notes of pink pepper, rum, and tobacco, perfect for cozying up in the fall and winter months.
• Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb: A fiery, addictive, and sensual fragrance that blends warm spices like cinnamon, saffron, and paprika with pink peppercorn and grapefruit.
• Kilian Old Fashioned: Bottles the taste of a classic Old Fashioned cocktail with wheat absolute, davana essence, cedarwood, and tolu balm for a rich and long-lasting scent.
• Viktor & Rolf Spicebomb Extreme: Features a hit of black pepper, cinnamon, and cumin that mingle with a base of tobacco, woody amber, and black vanilla.
• Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit De L'Homme: An elegant, spicy cologne with cardamom, lavender, Virginia cedar, bergamot, herbal vetiver, and coriander that is perfect for nighttime wear.
• Tom Ford Tobacco Vanille: An iconic cologne with smooth, warm vanilla and smoky tobacco notes, amplified by spicy top notes of ginger.
• Dior Bois D'Argent: A fashion insider's signature scent, this unisex fragrance from Dior's luxury fragrance collection features soft, sweet, and fresh notes of jasmine, wood accord, iris, and frankincense.
• Armani Beauty Bois D’Encens: A spicy, incense-forward fragrance evoking a church with strong notes of ginger, pepper, cedar, and incense.
• Chanel Bleu de Chanel: A fresh, clean, and sensual scent with notes of citrus, labdanum, sandalwood, and cedar that can easily transition from day to night.
• Ralph Lauren Polo Red: A spicy, aromatic blend of citrus, saffron, and redwood with a bold, ruby-hued bottle.
• Viktor&Rolf Spicebomb Eau de Toilette: A delicate yet sophisticated scent with notes of black pepper, purple florals, citrus, leather, and tobacco that is perfect for everyday wear.
• Yves Saint Laurent L'Homme: A classic, cozy fragrance with notes of bitter orange, oakwood, and vetiver that make it an excellent gift for men.
• Tom Ford Oud Wood: A woody signature scent with cardamom, sandalwood, vetiver, tonka bean, and Chinese pepper that is like warming up by a cozy fire.
• Maison Francis Kurkdjian Gentle Fluidity Silver: A bold and spicy scent with hints of citrus, created by master perfumer Francis Kurkdjian.
• Prada Luna Rossa Ocean: An aromatic, musky, and aquatic blend with H

Aquatic notes

The aquatic family of fragrances is achieved through a combination of specific notes and aromachemicals. While water itself is scentless, aquatic fragrances use a variety of ingredients to create the desired effect. Aromachemicals commonly found in aquatic fragrances include Ambroxan, Helional, Precyclemone B, Ultrazur, and Aquamate.

One key ingredient in creating aquatic notes is Calone, which provides a seawater effect. Other ingredients that can be used to create aquatic notes include Seaweed Absolute, Adoxal, Cascalone, and Floralozone. These ingredients are carefully blended to capture the essence of the sea without veering into less desirable scents like sewer water or pond water.

Aquatic fragrances can be further enhanced by adding notes of citrus, such as lemon, bergamot, and mandarin, as well as green tangerine, jasmine, and rosemary. These additional notes complement the aquatic base, resulting in a scent that is clean, fresh, and reminiscent of the ocean or a seaside breeze.

Popular fragrances that feature aquatic notes include Armani's Acqua di Gio, which combines aquatic notes with bergamot, neroli, green tangerine, jasmine, rosemary, and patchouli. Another well-known aquatic fragrance is Nautica Voyage, which blends aquatic notes with green apple, cedar, and florals to evoke the crispness of cool water. These fragrances showcase the versatility of aquatic notes, which can be combined with other scent families to create unique and appealing perfumes.

Floral fragrances

One of the most iconic floral scents is rose. Rose has been popular for many years and can be used in a wide range of applications due to its versatility. It pairs well with other sweet florals such as orange blossom and gardenia, as well as musky aromas like leather and wood.

Another popular floral fragrance is jasmine. The exotic fragrance of jasmine is a favourite in perfumes and other bath and body products. It is also commonly used in home fragrances, such as scented candles, room deodorizers, and incense. Jasmine pairs well with warm and woody fragrances and can also be paired with leather or musk for a more experimental scent.

Orange blossom is another floral fragrance that is commonly used in fresh and invigorating perfumes and body products such as body sprays, shampoos, conditioners, and lotions. While it carries a citrus essence, it also has distinctive floral notes that make it perfect for fragrances.

Gardenia is a striking and classic aroma commonly used in perfumes and other body products. It is also increasingly being used in home fragrance products such as scent diffusers, oils, sprays, and candles. Gardenia pairs well with other floral fragrances, particularly in "white" blends with flowers such as lily.

Violet is a key fragrance ingredient that provides a warm and rich base for complex fragrances. It is fairly easy to harness and use in both perfumes and cleaning products.

Other popular floral fragrances include lavender, tuberose, peony, honeysuckle, and iris.

When it comes to men's fragrances, there is a misconception that floral scents are not masculine. However, many classic men's fragrances contain floral notes such as lavender, geranium, and even rose. Floral fragrances for men can include scents like Hermes Equipage Geranium, Zaharoff Signature Bloom (a jasmine-based fragrance), and Fragonard Cologne Grand Luxe, which features neroli and other notes. Dior Homme Intense, a popular fragrance, features a combination of lavender, iris, ambrette, and cedar. Cartier Declaration d'un Soir is another unique floral fragrance for men, with a sweet and airy rose scent combined with black pepper and sandalwood.

Frequently asked questions