The Science Of Scent: Unlocking The Power Of Aroma

Scents and fragrances are a powerful way to transcend our physical surroundings, conjure closeness with loved ones, and bring excitement to mundane days. Our sense of smell is a deeply evocative aspect of who we are, and we are often attracted to certain fragrance types without even realising it. A scent can be a form of self-expression, an extension of your inner self, and a method for expressing what the eye cannot see. A signature scent can be a fun way to express your personality and the mood you want to evoke.

Scent profiles: Fragrances are classified into scent profiles, which detail their layered notes and identify their scent family

Fragrances are classified into scent profiles, which detail their layered notes and identify their scent family. Scent profiles are placed into categories, such as floral, wood, amber, and fresh, and then further broken down into more specific groups. The fragrance wheel is a circular diagram that illustrates the four scent families in relation to each of their corresponding subfamilies. The floral scent family is one of the most common families and usually takes on a feminine characteristic in fragrance. The amber scent family includes herbs, spices, and dry powdery resin notes, while the wood family includes scents that are warm and opulent. The fresh family is defined by zingy, aromatic compositions backed by underlying woody notes.

Fragrance notes are the individual scent layers of ingredients that make up a fragrance. They are typically categorized into three main types: top notes, heart or middle notes, and base notes. Each note plays a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity. Top notes are the scents you detect first after spraying a perfume, while base notes are the scent that lasts the longest. Heart notes make up the "heart" of the fragrance, retaining some of the top notes' aroma while also introducing new scents to deepen the experience.

The different types of fragrance notes include fresh, floral, spice, fruits, woods, and musk, each of which is typically used in specific note categories. For example, floral and fresh scents are usually top notes, while woodsy and musky scents typically appear towards the bottom of the note pyramid.

Olfactive families: These are the eight families that fragrances fall into, categorised into two groups: warm and fresh

The world of fragrances is complex and fascinating, and to help make sense of it all, experts have developed ways to categorise the thousands of different scents into distinct families. This is known as the fragrance wheel, which was first introduced by perfumer Paul Jellinek in 1949 and later modified by perfume taxonomist Michael Edwards in 1983. The latest version of the wheel, as of 2010, includes eight olfactive families, which are divided into two groups: fresh and warm.

The Eight Olfactive Families

Aromatic

The Aromatic family is a major group for men's fragrances, featuring fresh green herbs such as rosemary, thyme, sage and lavender. These notes are often combined with citrus or spicy accords for a fuller, more masculine scent.

Chypre

The Chypre family is named after a fragrance called Chypre, developed by François Coty in 1917. It typically includes a bergamot head, an oak moss and labdanum heart, and a warm moss base that contrasts with a fresh citrus head. Chypre fragrances can be floral, fruity, green, aromatic or leathery.

Citrus

Citrus fragrances are characterised by the scent of the juice, zest or blossom of fruits like lemon, bergamot, orange, mandarin and grapefruit. They are usually fresh and light, often combined with floral, tart or aromatic notes.

Floral

The Floral family is one of the largest and oldest, commonly associated with femininity. These fragrances can be made from a single flower or a bouquet of several and often include notes of iris, jasmine, rose, orange blossom and lily of the valley.

Fougère

Fougère is a major family for men's fragrances, dominated by masculine scents. The name means "fern" in French and comes from the perfume Fougère Royale, launched in 1882. Fougère fragrances typically include notes of lavender, wood, oak moss, coumarin and citrus, resulting in sweet and spicy notes over a herbaceous backdrop.

Leather

The Leather family has a unique history, originating from the practice of tanning leather, where fragrances were used to mask the unpleasant odours of ammonia. Today, leather fragrances can be identified by tart, dry or smoky blends, or even floral, crisp compositions.

Oriental/Amber

Also known as the Amber family, this group is characterised by warmth and sensuality. Amber fragrances are often rich, full-bodied and long-lasting, with notes of vanilla, labdanum and opoponax, as well as spices like cinnamon, myrrh, incense and benzoin.

Woody

The Woody family includes warm, rich and opulent fragrances with earthy undertones, such as sandalwood and patchouli. These notes are commonly used as the base of perfumes, providing a backbone for other notes to be built upon. Woody fragrances can be combined with fresh citrus or aromatic head notes for a more feminine or androgynous scent.

In Conclusion

While the fragrance wheel is a helpful tool for navigating the complex world of perfumes, it's important to note that these categories are not set in stone and there may be some variation among different fragrance wheels. Additionally, fragrances often include notes from multiple families, creating unique blends that don't fit neatly into a single category.

Top, middle and base notes: These are the layers of a scent, with the bottom notes lasting the longest and the top notes fading the quickest

Scents are made up of a combination of notes, which are the individual scent layers of ingredients that, when combined, form a unified, pleasing perfume. These notes are typically categorised into three types: top notes, heart or middle notes, and base notes. Each note has a specific role in the fragrance's development and longevity, and they all evaporate at their own pace.

Top notes, sometimes referred to as headnotes, form the first layer of a fragrance. They are the scents you detect first after spraying a perfume and play a role in setting first impressions. These notes usually evaporate quickly, lingering for only the first 5 to 15 minutes. Their main purpose is to give off an initial scent and then smoothly transition into the next part of the fragrance. As a result, top notes generally consist of lighter and smaller molecules with a fresh, sharp, and fleeting quality. Common top notes include citrus scents like lemon, orange, and bergamot, as well as light floral scents like lavender and rose.

Middle notes, also known as heart notes, emerge just before the top notes evaporate. They form the heart of the fragrance, making a liaison between the top and base notes. These notes are considered 'mellow' and 'balancing' and are neither fresh nor deep in nature. Middle notes usually start revealing themselves from 15 minutes onwards and can last for a few hours. They are complex and bring together the fresh top and warm base notes. Middle notes include full-bodied, aromatic floral oils like jasmine, geranium, and ylang-ylang, as well as spices like cinnamon and black pepper.

Base notes, also known as drydown, are the foundation of the fragrance. They are rich, heavy, and long-lasting, kicking in about 30 minutes after application and working with the middle notes to create the scent's foundation. Since they sink into your skin, their scent lingers the longest, even for days. Base notes are predominantly deep and warm, including woody, balsamic, and musky notes, but this is not an exhaustive list. Popular base notes include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood.

Dry down: This refers to the body of the fragrance that emerges after the middle note wears off and the bottom note emerges

A scent is a fragrance that can be found in perfumes, bath gels, body washes, shampoos, and moisturizing lotions. Perfumes, however, are unique because the scent is the entire point. People choose a fragrance because it imparts a certain trait, such as sensuality, freshness, or femininity.

Perfumes are composed of different notes that emerge at different times. The top notes are the first thing you smell when you apply the perfume. They are strong, volatile, and evaporate quickly. The middle notes, also known as the "heart" of the fragrance, emerge after the top notes dissipate. The middle notes last up to an hour and are considered the body of the perfume. The base notes, or "soul notes", are the scent that appears towards the end of the middle notes. They bring depth and solidity to the perfume and can last for several hours.

The dry-down period refers to the emergence of the base notes, or the bottom notes, of a fragrance. It is the final scent that remains after the middle notes have worn off. This is the true signature of the scent and can last for several hours. The dry-down period is an important consideration when choosing a fragrance because it is the longest-lasting effect of the perfume. Fixatives are added to the base notes to make the dry-down scent last longer.

Scent personality: Your scent should express your individuality and uniqueness

Scents have the power to transport us to another place and time. They can evoke emotions and nostalgia, and even provide a sense of closeness to others. As we emerge into more social situations, finding a signature scent may be a priority for many.

Your scent should be an expression of your individuality and uniqueness. It should be an extension of your inner self and a potent method for expressing what the eye cannot see. Your scent can be a way to showcase your personality and the mood you want to convey. For example, if you are an outgoing and confident individual, you may be drawn to perfumes with a sparkling and vibrant character. You might prefer more intense and sensual base notes, especially if you are seeking a signature perfume to enhance your seductive power.

The process of choosing a scent is deeply personal and based on individual preferences and the perception of scent. Everyone's tastes are unique, and what smells masculine to one person may smell feminine to another. Your scent can be tailored to your professional life, daytime wear, or your individual fashion style.

When choosing a signature scent, it is important to first understand the different notes and how they work with your unique body chemistry. A perfume's scent profile is an easy way to understand its composition and match it to the mood you want to evoke. The scent profile can detail the layered notes and identify its scent "family," with the main categories being Warm and Fresh. The Warm group includes fougere, oriental, and leather, while the Fresh group includes citrus, floral, and aromatic scents.

Ultimately, your scent is a reflection of your personality and a way to express your individuality through scent.

Frequently asked questions