Aleppo's Culinary Delights: Traditional Recipes, Aromatic Flavors

Aromas of Aleppo is a cookbook that explores the cuisine of the Aleppian Jewish community, offering a rich cultural and historical context alongside its recipes. The book is the work of Poopa Dweck, a first-generation Syrian-Jewish American, who has devoted her life to preserving and celebrating the centuries-old legacy of her community's culinary traditions. The recipes in the book include Bazargan (Tangy Tamarind Bulgur Salad), Shurbat Addes (Hearty Red Lentil Soup with Garlic and Coriander), Kibbeh (Stuffed Syrian Meatballs with Ground Rice), and Samak b'Batata (Baked Middle Eastern Whole Fish with Potatoes), among others.

Salads: e.g. Salata Arabi (basic Syrian salad with lemon-cumin dressing)

Salads are an essential part of Syrian cuisine, with fresh vegetables and herbs taking centre stage. One such salad, Salata Arabi, is a simple yet versatile dish that can be enjoyed at any time of the day. It is a popular choice for breakfast, paired with foul, or as an accompaniment to rice dishes for dinner.

At its core, Salata Arabi is a celebration of fresh produce, with tomatoes, cucumbers, onions, and mint coming together in perfect harmony. The preparation is straightforward: these ingredients are finely chopped and combined in a bowl. The key to elevating this salad lies in the dressing. A generous glug of extra virgin olive oil and a squeeze of lemon juice add depth and zing, while a pinch of cumin brings an earthy, aromatic touch. A sprinkle of salt ties all the flavours together.

While the basic recipe is a delight, Salata Arabi also serves as a blank canvas for creativity. For those who enjoy a bit of spice, chillies are a wonderful addition, providing a subtle kick. Feta cheese and black olives contribute a salty, briny contrast to the crisp vegetables. For an extra punch of flavour, a sprinkle of za'atar, sumac, or ground black lime takes this salad to the next level.

The beauty of Salata Arabi lies in its adaptability. It can be served as part of a mezze spread, stuffed into warm pita pockets with falafel, or as a refreshing side dish to balance heartier meat or rice dishes. This Syrian salad is a testament to the simplicity and versatility of Middle Eastern cuisine, where fresh ingredients shine and every bite is a flavourful delight.

Breads: e.g. Khubz 'adi (ordinary Syrian flatbread)

Syrian flatbread, or Khubz adi, is a type of bread that is commonly found in the cuisine of Syrian Jews. This flatbread is a simple yet essential part of a meal, and can be used to scoop up food or to wrap around various fillings.

To make Khubz adi, you will need the following ingredients:

• Warm water
• Active dry yeast
• Flour (all-purpose or bread flour may be used)
• Vegetable oil or olive oil
• Salt

The process of making Khubz adi involves the following steps:

• Dissolve the yeast in warm water.
• Add flour and oil gradually while kneading the dough until it becomes smooth and elastic.
• Place the dough in a greased bowl and turn it to grease all sides.
• Cover the dough and let it rise in a warm place until it doubles in size.
• Preheat the oven to a high temperature (ideally 500°F, but 375°F works as well).
• Gently punch down the dough and divide it into equal portions.
• Shape each portion into a smooth ball and place them on a floured surface.
• Let the dough rest for about 15 minutes.
• Roll out each ball into a circle with a diameter of about 6-8 inches.
• Place the rolled-out dough onto greased baking sheets.
• Bake in the preheated oven for 10-12 minutes, or until the bread puffs up.

The resulting Khubz adi should be slightly browned on top and have a soft, pliable texture. This bread is best served warm, and it can be paired with various dips or fillings such as hummus, falafel, or grilled meats.

Khubz adi is a versatile and essential component of Syrian Jewish cuisine, and it can be adapted to suit various preferences and occasions. It is often served as an accompaniment to other dishes, providing a vehicle for scooping up sauces or dipping into spreads.

Dips: e.g. Tehineh (sesame spread)

Sesame spread, or Tehineh, is a popular dip in Aleppo, and it's easy to see why. With its nutty and tangy flavour, it's the perfect accompaniment to flatbreads, falafel, or grilled meats. Here's a recipe for Tehineh, as well as some serving suggestions and variations.

Ingredients:

• Lemon
• Tahini
• Ground cumin
• Paprika

Optional:

• Garlic
• Salt
• Ice water
• Fresh herbs (e.g. parsley, cilantro, dill, basil)

Method:

If you're using garlic, start by marinating it in lemon juice for 10 minutes. This step adds a subtle garlic flavour to the lemon juice without it becoming too overpowering. Next, strain the garlic out of the lemon juice—this ensures a smooth dip and prevents the garlic from dominating the other flavours.

Now, whisk in the tahini, cumin, and paprika. If you're using salt, add it now. The mixture will thicken, so slowly whisk in ice water until you reach your desired consistency.

Serving Suggestions:

Tehineh is a versatile dip that can be served in many ways. Here are some ideas:

• As a dip with flatbread or pita wedges
• With whole grains such as farro
• As a salad dressing—thin with water if needed
• As an appetizer with hummus and/or baba ganoush
• With grilled meats, such as kebabs
• With fried fish

Variations:

While Tehineh is delicious as it is, you can also try adding some fresh herbs such as parsley, cilantro, dill, or basil. Simply whisk them into the dip, or blend them with the Tehineh in a food processor for a smooth, green sauce.

There you have it—a versatile and delicious dip that's perfect for any occasion!

Main dishes: e.g. Samak b'Batata (baked Middle Eastern whole fish with potatoes)

Samak bBatata is a delicious Middle Eastern dish of baked whole fish with potatoes. It is a simple yet mouth-watering recipe, perfect for a family meal or to serve at a dinner party. Here is a detailed recipe to achieve this tasty dish.

Ingredients:

• 4 lbs of Red Snapper, Ling Cod, or any Pacific Cod fish (scaled and gutted)
• 1/2 cup of Italian parsley, finely chopped
• 1.5 cups of lemon juice
• 1 tablespoon of olive oil
• 6 teaspoons of ground coriander
• 1 teaspoon of chili powder
• White vinegar and salt (optional)
• Pita bread, to serve

Method:

• If you wish, rub the fish with white vinegar and salt, then rinse with cold water. This will reduce any strong fishy smells.
• Cut slits into the fish, or use fillets. Rub the fish with olive oil and lemon juice. If using a whole fish, insert lemon slices inside for extra flavour.
• Place the fish on a greased baking tray and cook in the oven at 300°F for 20-25 minutes.
• While the fish is baking, make the pine nut garnish. Fry 1 cup of pine nuts with 1-2 tablespoons of olive oil in a frying pan over a medium heat for about 3 minutes, or until lightly browned. Set aside half of the pine nuts for garnish, and crush the other half with a mortar and pestle.
• In a deep saucepan, combine crushed garlic, lemon juice, tahini paste, water, salt, coriander, and chili powder. Mix well and cook over a medium heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture boils. Then, lower the heat and add the crushed pine nuts.
• Once the fish is baked, lay it on a deep serving platter and pour the sauce over the top.
• Garnish with the remaining fried pine nuts and the chopped parsley. Serve hot with pita bread.

Tips:

• This dish is best served hot and fresh, but any leftovers can be stored in an airtight container in the fridge for up to 4 days.
• To reheat, place in the oven at 350°F for 5-7 minutes, or use a toaster oven. Alternatively, you can use a microwave, but the fish and potatoes will lose their crispy texture.
• This recipe pairs well with a side of hummus and tabbouleh salad.
• For a sandwich option, add the fish, tahini sauce, lettuce, and tomatoes to pita bread and roll up.

Samak bBatata is a flavourful and hearty dish, perfect for those who enjoy a spicy kick. The tanginess of the lemon and the creaminess of the tahini sauce complement the fish beautifully, resulting in a delicious and satisfying meal.

Desserts: e.g. Candied Apricots with Pistachios

Candied Apricots with Pistachios, or Helou Mishmosh, is a traditional Syrian dessert. The recipe involves steaming dried apricots to soften them, then processing them into a smooth paste. This apricot paste is then combined with pistachios and a fragrant syrup made from sugar, lemon juice, and orange blossom water (or rose water). The mixture is brought to a boil and then simmered to form a thick paste, which is then spread onto a baking sheet to dry for a week. Finally, the paste is cut into diamond shapes.

Ingredients:

• 1/2 pound pistachios, shelled, blanched, and peeled
• 3 pounds dried apricots
• 1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice
• 1/2 teaspoon orange blossom water or rose water
• 1 cup sugar
• 1 cup water

Method:

• Steam the apricots in batches for 4 to 5 minutes, tossing occasionally to ensure even softening.
• While the apricots are still hot, process them in a food processor until they form a smooth paste.
• Combine the apricot paste, pistachios, and fragrant syrup in a medium saucepan.
• Bring the mixture to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat and simmer for about 15 minutes, or until it forms a paste.
• Line a 15-1/2 x 10-1/2-inch rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper and pour the mixture into the tray.
• Leave the tray uncovered or lightly covered with foil for about a week to allow the paste to dry.
• Using a sharp knife, slide along the edges of the tray to loosen the paste. Turn the paste out onto a flat cutting surface.
• Cut the paste diagonally into diamond shapes about 1-1/4 inches wide.

These candies can be stored in a candy dish covered with aluminum foil for 3 to 4 weeks.

Frequently asked questions