Lance Carson
Colloquially, old lady perfumes are fragrances launched between the 1920s and 1980s, with well-known examples including Chanel No. 5, Guerlain Shalimar, Yves Saint Laurent Opium, and Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps. These perfumes are often described as powdery, strong, and soapy. However, the term old lady perfume is considered ageist by some, and preferences may change over time. For instance, perfumes like Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Tom Ford Lost Cherry, and Glossier You are considered modern interpretations of classic fragrances. Ultimately, fragrance preferences are subjective, and individuals may gravitate towards various scents, including those considered old lady perfumes, due to personal associations, nostalgia, or changing tastes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Launched | After the 1980s |
| Scent | Not powdery, strong, or too much |
| Fruity, sweet | |
| Light and fresh | |
| Youthful | |
| Not too many conflicting notes | |
| Not musty | |
| Not too familiar |
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What You'll Learn
Fragrances launched between the 1920s and 1980s
The term "old lady perfume" is generally used to refer to fragrances launched between the 1920s and 1980s. Here is a journey through the fragrances of that period.
The 1920s
The 1920s saw the launch of several iconic fragrances that are still popular today. Chanel No. 5, created by Coco Chanel, was launched in 1921 to embody the scent of the new, modern woman. With its groundbreaking use of synthetic aldehydes, it exudes a powdery, soapy fragrance. Another fragrance launched in 1921 was Molinard Habanita, which is known for its honeyed tobacco notes and vetiver, challenging gender stereotypes with its masculine and feminine notes. Lanvin Arpège, launched in 1924, is a floral melody of rose, iris, lily, jasmine, and more, evoking the warmth of fluffy towels. Shalimar by Guerlain, with its blend of exotic florals and vanilla notes, was another popular fragrance of the era, remaining a top pick well into the 1950s.
The 1930s
The 1930s brought financial challenges, but fragrances offered an escape. Jean Patou's Joy, launched in this decade, was targeted at Americans who couldn't afford the designer's glamorous gowns but could indulge in the jasmine-and-rose-rich fragrance. Worth, another Parisian designer, launched Je Reviens in 1932, cementing the link between fashion and perfumery. Dana's Tabu broke taboos with its overtly sensual blend of patchouli, carnation, and vanilla. Elsa Schiaparelli's Shocking added a splash of colour to the fragrance world, with its sparkling aldehydes and sexy fusion of jasmine, roses, and ylang-ylang.
The 1940s
Carven's Ma Griffe made a stunning entrance in 1946 by parachuting tiny samples of the scent over Paris, targeting younger women. L'Air du Temps by Nina Ricci, introduced in 1948, soared in popularity throughout the 1950s with its spicy floral scent and beautiful bottle design. Miss Dior by Christian Dior, with its chypre floral notes, was a staple in the perfume wardrobes of many women in the 1950s, reflecting the post-war hunger for glamour.
The 1950s
The 1950s saw the continued popularity of Chanel No. 5, enhanced by its association with Hollywood icon Marilyn Monroe, who claimed to wear "just a few drops of No. 5" to bed. Other iconic fragrances of this decade include Vent Vert by Balmain, known for its intense green and fresh notes, and Youth Dew by Estée Lauder, which appealed to consumers with its spicy, sensual aroma. Emeraude by Coty was appreciated for its Oriental floral scent, while Prince Matchabelli's Wind Song stood out with its bright and spicy scent. Diorissimo by Christian Dior, launched in 1956, embodied the spirit of Dior with its fresh lily-of-the-valley scent.
The 1960s
The 1960s marked a shift in the fragrance industry, with the emergence of heavily promoted scents targeted towards specific genders. However, hippies embraced oriental cultures and natural scents, favouring musk, patchouli, and sandalwood. Drugstore fragrances became popular, with companies like Bonne Bell, Houbigant, Prince Matchabelli, Dana, Max Factor, Coty, and Jovan producing classics.
The 1970s
The 1970s witnessed a golden age of fashion, and fragrances complemented the bold outfits of the era. Popular perfumes included Charlie Blue for Women by Revlon, a woody floral fragrance with sharp citrus and peach notes, and a base of musk, vanilla, and cedar. Anais Anais for Women by Cacharel captured the passion of the decade with its intense, sensual, and romantic blend of hyacinth, black currant, and honeysuckle, followed by soft florals and a musky base. Youth Dew by Estée Lauder remained a favourite, with its warm and spicy blend of lavender, jasmine, and patchouli.
The 1980s
The fragrance industry doubled in size during the 1980s, with 462 new fragrances launched. This decade was characterised by bold, assertive scents and powerful marketing strategies. Giorgio, a floral powerhouse, made such a strong impression that some restaurants refused to seat customers wearing it. While the early 1980s embraced heavy fragrances, the latter part of the decade saw a shift towards lighter, more nuanced perfumes.
While the term "old lady perfume" is often used to describe these classic fragrances, it is important to recognise that these scents have stood the test of time and continue to captivate wearers, defying any negative connotations.
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Powdery, strong scents
The term "old lady perfume" is generally applied to perfumes launched between the 1920s and 1980s. Powdery, strong scents are often associated with older women, and some people may find them off-putting. However, powdery perfumes can be sexy and fresh when done right.
If you're looking for a powdery perfume that doesn't smell like an old lady, you might want to try something with a modern twist. Prada's Infusion D'iris, for example, opens with a strong green scent but settles into pure iris over a subtle woody base. French fragrance house Jouissance's Les Cahiers Secrets combines traditionally powdery notes with spicy cumin and earthy orris root.
For a comforting take on a powdery scent, Mizensir's Poudre D'or combines white florals, musk, iris, and sandalwood with a hint of vanilla. Floral Street's Iris Goddess is another option, offering a powdery violet scent with notes of musk and suede and a slight fruity sweetness.
When it comes to avoiding a scent that might be perceived as too strong or reminiscent of an old lady, it's best to stay away from perfumes with a mix of floral notes. Instead, opt for fragrances with citrusy notes, as recommended by stylist Elizabeth Kosich. Firebird perfumes, Pineward perfumes, and Andromeda's Curse are some brands that offer fresh and light scents that are unlikely to remind you of your grandmother.
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Soapy notes
So, you're looking for a perfume that doesn't smell like an "old lady". The term "old lady perfume" is generally used to describe perfumes launched between the 1920s and 1980s, with the most famous example being Chanel No. 5. These perfumes tend to have powdery, soapy notes, with strong aldehydes. If you want to avoid that soapy note, there are plenty of other options!
One way to avoid the soapy note is to opt for a fresh, clean perfume. These perfumes often have key notes of citrus, such as bergamot, mandarin, orange flower, and neroli. Some fresh perfumes also include notes of musk, giving them a clean, crisp edge. For example, the perfume brand Diptyque blends notes in a way that creates something entirely new and indescribable. Their fragrances are coconutty and exotic, yet far from sweet, with an earthy but milky freshness.
Another way to go is fruity and floral. Pear Inc. Eau De Parfum is a great option if you like the fresh, fruity scent of pear. It leaves a lingering scent on the skin, like you've just stepped out of the shower. Acqua di Parma's latest launch is also floral and rich, reminiscent of fresh morning air in Tuscany. It has key notes of lemon, spearmint, rosemary, basil, petitgrain, lavandin, mandarin leaves, cedarwood leaves, amber, and white musk.
If you're looking for something a little more tropical, Bronze Goddess smells like liquid gold glimmering under the sunshine. It includes notes of bergamot, warm amber, tiare flower, vanilla, and coconut. Chance Eau Fraiche is another option, with its botanical and rich fragrance.
So, there you have it! A range of perfumes that avoid the soapy notes of the "old lady" perfumes and offer something a little more fresh, fruity, or floral.
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Fruity, sweet scents are more youthful
The term "old lady perfume" is generally applied to perfumes launched between the 1920s and the 1980s. These fragrances are often described as powdery, strong, and soapy. However, it's important to note that the term is considered ageist by many. Today, fruity and sweet scents are often associated with youth and modernity. These perfumes offer a sophisticated take on the sugary fragrances of adolescence, blending classic notes like vanilla, caramel, and brown sugar with deeper notes like musk and fruit.
One example of a sweet perfume is Kilian's Love Don't Be Shy, which offers a sophisticated take on sweetness. Another is Ariana Grande's Cloud, which balances sweet and sugary notes with bursts of fresh fruit and musk. This scent opens with pear and lavender and evolves into a sweet mix of whipped cream, coconut, praline, and vanilla, before settling into musk and woodiness.
If you're looking for a fruity perfume, consider Tom Ford's Lost Cherry Eau de Parfum, which blends strawberry with plum nectar, tonka bean, and amber. For a more tropical fruit experience, Ellis Brooklyn's Miami Nectar combines coconut with pink pineapple, palm leaves, and vanilla. Anna Sui's Dolly Girl is another option, with notes of strawberry, raspberry, pink peony, and solar woods.
For those who prefer their fruit a little more unusual, Pear Jam offers a scent with notes of pear, rose, and patchouli, with a modern and mature powdery finish. Alternatively, Marc Jacobs' Daisy line offers a carefree, award-winning fragrance with notes of pineapple, mango, mandarin orange, and cashmere woods to cut the sweetness.
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Scent association with older women
The term "old lady perfume" has become an accepted part of the modern beauty vernacular. However, it is inaccurate at best and ageist at worst. The term is generally applied to perfumes launched between the 1920s and the 1980s, with the best-known example being Chanel No. 5. Other perfumes in this category include Guerlain Shalimar, Yves Saint Laurent Opium, and Nina Ricci L'Air du Temps. These perfumes are often described as having a powdery, soapy scent.
The association between certain perfumes and older women may be due to Pavlovian conditioning. That is, you smell a particular type of perfume on a certain age group of women and come to associate it with that age group. This association may also be influenced by the perfumes that were popular during a person's youth. For example, a person may associate the smell of lavender with their grandmother if that was a popular fragrance during her youth.
Additionally, body odor naturally changes as people age due to increased levels of a compound called 2-nonenal and the breakdown of specific chemicals in the body. While older adults do have a distinct scent, it is not necessarily unpleasant. In fact, research suggests that people do not mind the smell of older adults and may even find it more pleasant when they do not know it is coming from an older person.
The perfume industry has recognized the changing preferences of older women, and there are now many perfumes created with more sophisticated and elegant aromas in mind. These perfumes avoid the "old lady" smell while still appealing to mature women. Examples of perfumes that older women may enjoy include Romance by Ralph Lauren, Lancôme La Vie Est Belle, Chloé Eau de Parfum, and Libre Eau De Parfum by Yves Saint Laurent.
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Frequently asked questions
Many perfumes that are considered "old lady perfumes" are described as such because they were popular in the past. Some modern perfumes that don't smell like old ladies include Baccarat Rouge 540 by Maison Francis Kurkdjian, Tom Ford Lost Cherry, and Glossier You.
Young people tend to prefer sweet and fruity scents. Popular fragrances among younger people include Aquolina’s Pink Sugar, Miss Dior Cherie, and Kiehl’s Original Musk.
Some perfumes that were once trendy but are now considered "old lady perfumes" include Chanel No. 5, Guerlain Shalimar, Yves Saint Laurent Opium, and Nina Ricci L’Air du Temps.
The term "old lady perfume" is often used to describe fragrances with strong, powdery, and soapy notes that were popular in the past. These perfumes may be associated with older generations due to their pervasiveness during their original era.
Wearing perfumes that don't smell like old ladies can help you present yourself differently. While "old lady perfumes" can be elegant and powerful, modern fragrances may be more suitable for casual settings and can offer a youthful and fresh scent profile.
