Katrina Rosales
The original Dana Ambush, launched in 1955, is a women's fragrance with top notes of heliotrope, lavender, bergamot, and middle notes of jasmine, orchid, oakmoss, and base notes of patchouli. It has been described as a spicy soft floral scent with a delicately spicy, sandy beach-y, baby powder smell with a pronounced musk base. Some have compared it to Canoe for Men, Old Spice for Men, and face powder. The original formula was discontinued in the 1970s, and a new version with modern ingredients was launched in 1997 but has also since been discontinued.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Perfumer | Jean Carles |
| Year of Launch | 1955 |
| Top Notes | Heliotrope, Lavender, Bergamot, Basil or Anise, Rosewood, Kiwi, Papaya, Sage, Lemon |
| Middle Notes | Jasmine, Orchid, Oakmoss, Geranium, Rose, Carnation, Passionfruit |
| Base Notes | Patchouli, Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Vanilla, Heliotrope, Praline |
| Fragrance Type | Oriental Woody |
| Fragrance Family | Floral |
| Fragrance For | Women |
| Smells Like | Face Powder, Linen Closets, Barber's Powder, Musk, Spice, Old Spice for Men |
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What You'll Learn
Ambush's top notes including lavender, bergamot, and kiwi
The original Ambush perfume by Dana, launched in 1955, is characterised by its top notes of lavender, bergamot, and other floral scents. The perfume has been described as having a spicy soft floral opening that dries down powdery and smells like nothing else; light, young, innocent, sexy, pretty. The lavender note, in particular, is a standout feature of the fragrance, offering a unique twist on the classic fougère. The perfumer, Jean Carles, faced the challenge of creating a lavender-focused fragrance that didn't feel too masculine or reminiscent of toilet bowl cleansers, which are common pitfalls of lavender-scented products.
The inclusion of lavender in Ambush adds a sophisticated and unexpected element to the fragrance. It is a bold choice, as lavender can be a polarising scent, often associated with grandmothers and old-fashioned perfumery. However, in Ambush, the lavender note is carefully balanced with other ingredients, resulting in a modern and feminine fragrance.
Bergamot, another top note in Ambush, provides a bright and citrusy element to the fragrance. Bergamot is known for its ability to enhance and complement other notes, adding a layer of complexity to the perfume. The combination of lavender and bergamot creates a unique and memorable scent, which has been described as "the suntanned nape-of-neck of a 1950's teenaged boy" and reminiscent of "wholesome, sunshiny masculinity".
In the 1997 version of Ambush, kiwi was introduced as a top note, along with other modern ingredients such as papaya, sage, lemon, and more. This reformulated version aimed to capture the essence of the original while appealing to contemporary tastes and trends. The addition of kiwi added a fresh, fruity, and slightly tangy element to the fragrance, creating a playful and youthful vibe.
The combination of lavender, bergamot, and kiwi (in the 1997 version) in the top notes of Ambush, results in a unique and captivating fragrance. These notes come together to create a scent that is both classic and modern, feminine and masculine, soft and powerful—a true testament to the art of perfumery and the genius of Jean Carles.
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Middle notes including jasmine, orchid, and oakmoss
Jasmine is a highly versatile and valued ingredient in perfumery, with its sweet, strong, and heady floral aroma. It is used in a wide variety of perfumes, from fresh and crisp floral fragrances to deep and musky oriental-inspired perfumes. It is also used to add depth and complexity to a fragrance, particularly when blended with other floral notes like rose, ylang-ylang, or tuberose, and paired with spicy or woody notes like sandalwood, cedarwood, or patchouli. Jasmine absolute, the oil extracted from jasmine flowers, is especially prized in perfumery for its intense and long-lasting floral scent. However, due to the large number of flowers required to produce a small amount of oil, it is an expensive and highly sought-after ingredient.
Orchid is another floral note that is often used in perfumery. It is known for its sophisticated and rich fragrance, often used in daytime situations like brunch, work, or lunch dates. It is usually paired with other floral notes such as honeysuckle and tuberose, as well as warm notes like sandalwood and musk. Orchid is also said to enhance the natural scent of the wearer, making it a unique and captivating ingredient in perfumes.
Oakmoss, on the other hand, is a completely different type of scent note. It is an earthy, woody, and mossy fragrance derived from lichen, a fungus that grows on oak trees in Europe and North America. Oakmoss is commonly used in chypre and Fougère types of perfumes, adding a delicate forest-like aroma. It is often used as a fixative, improving the longevity of the composition. Oakmoss has a complex aroma, with hints of musk and amber, and a subtle sweetness. However, it has become controversial due to its potential to cause skin irritation, and its use is now restricted by international fragrance regulations. Despite this, it remains a beloved ingredient among perfumers, who value its versatility and ability to create complex, layered fragrances.
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Base notes including heliotrope, tonka bean, and patchouli
The base notes of a perfume are the scents that appear once the fragrance has dried down and are often the notes with the longest-lasting smell. The base notes of the original 1955 Ambush perfume by Dana include heliotrope, tonka bean, and patchouli.
Heliotrope is a dominant floral note in Ambush, and it blends with the lavender to create a soft floral delicacy. This combination of heliotrope and lavender also gives the perfume a resemblance to Old Spice for Men, resulting in a scent that one user describes as "Old Spice for Women". Heliotrope is a favourite flower for some, and its inclusion in the base notes of Ambush contributes to its beautiful, cozy, and old-fashioned fragrance.
Tonka bean is another base note in the original Ambush perfume. It is often associated with feminine lavender scents and is known for its calming properties when combined with lavender and a touch of vanilla. Tonka bean is also a key ingredient in creating a powdery scent, which is a notable characteristic of the dry-down phase of Ambush.
Patchouli is the final base note in the original Ambush fragrance. This note adds depth and an earthy, woody aroma to the perfume. The combination of patchouli with the other base notes and middle notes of jasmine, orchid, and oakmoss creates a unique and long-lasting scent.
The base notes of heliotrope, tonka bean, and patchouli in the original Ambush perfume by Dana contribute to its distinctive and memorable fragrance, leaving a lasting impression on those who wear it and those who encounter it.
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Masculine vs feminine
The original Ambush fragrance by Dana, launched in 1955, is predominantly described as a feminine perfume, with some debate. It has been said to smell like the "suntanned nape-of-neck of a 1950's teenaged boy", with an "oily, slightly unctuous musk". This description evokes a sense of wholesome, sunshiny masculinity. However, the perfume is often associated with women's fragrance and has been described as "girly" and "girlish".
The original fragrance features top notes of heliotrope, lavender, bergamot, and middle notes of jasmine, orchid, and oakmoss, with base notes of patchouli. These scents combine to create a soft, floral delicacy with a cozy, powdery finish. Some have compared it to a "face powder and linen closet" scent, evoking a sense of femininity and innocence.
While the original Ambush is predominantly associated with femininity, there is a debate about its versatility. Some describe it as a "shared scent", and it has been compared to men's cologne, such as Canoe and Old Spice for Men. This comparison suggests that while the fragrance may lean towards the feminine, it has masculine undertones that make it appealing to both genders.
The reformulated version of Ambush, released in the 1990s, featured significantly different top notes, including kiwi, papaya, and sage, with middle notes of passionfruit, carnation, and rose, and base notes of sandalwood, tonka bean, and vanilla. This version has also been discontinued.
The perception of fragrances as masculine or feminine can be influenced by cultural and generational factors, as well as personal associations and preferences. Fragrances with floral or powdery notes are often associated with femininity, while woody or spicy notes are more commonly associated with masculinity. However, these associations are not absolute, and fragrances can be enjoyed by anyone regardless of gender.
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Similar perfumes including Canoe and Old Spice for Men
The original Ambush perfume by Dana, launched in 1955, is described by some as having a masculine scent, reminiscent of a man's cologne. It is said to have a spicy, floral scent with notes of heliotrope, lavender, and bergamot. Some have also noted that it bears a resemblance to Canoe and Old Spice for Men.
Canoe, another fragrance by Dana, is described as an aromatic fougère with top notes of bergamot and petitgrain, mid notes of lavender, fougère, and geranium, and base notes of patchouli and musk. It is marketed as the "essence of an adventurous lifestyle" and is considered a classic, confident, and masculine scent.
Old Spice for Men, on the other hand, is a well-known brand of men's grooming products, including deodorants, antiperspirants, and fragrances. While they offer a range of scents, their original fragrance is known for its strong, spicy, and masculine aroma.
While Ambush, Canoe, and Old Spice for Men all have their unique compositions and target audiences, they share certain similarities in terms of scent profiles and the impressions they evoke. All three fragrances have been described as having a classic, confident, and masculine aura, with spicy and musky notes.
It is worth noting that fragrances can smell different on various individuals due to factors such as body chemistry and personal perception. Therefore, while these fragrances share certain similarities, the ultimate determination of their similarity rests in the nose of the beholder.
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Frequently asked questions
Ambush has a soft floral delicacy with notes of heliotrope, lavender, bergamot, jasmine, orchid, oakmoss, and patchouli. It has been described as smelling like the suntanned nape of a 1950s teenage boy with an oily barber's powder musk.
The original Ambush by Dana, a women's fragrance, was launched in 1955 and discontinued in the 1970s. It was created by Jean Carles and based on Canoe for Men. A different fragrance with the same name was released in the 1990s but has also been discontinued.
The top notes of the original Ambush are heliotrope, lavender, and bergamot.
The base notes of the original Ambush are patchouli, according to one source. Another source mentions vanilla, heliotrope, and praline as base notes.
Some similar fragrances to the original Ambush include Canoe for Men, Old Spice for Men/Women, and Nurture's Kismet/Karma Dupe FO.
