Katrina Rosales
Ambergris is a rare and expensive ingredient used in perfumery. It is a waxy material produced in the belly of a sperm whale and excreted by the animal. It has a strong scent, which can be sweet, woody, ambery, earthy, and musky. The scent is so powerful that it can make a perfume last longer on the skin. While natural ambergris is difficult to source, some perfumes that contain it include Soleil de Jeddah, Rosendo Mateu #5, Baccarat Rouge 540, and Ambre Supreme. Synthetic alternatives, such as Ambroxan, are also used to recreate the scent of ambergris.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Perfumes with Ambergris | Soleil de Jeddah, Rosendo Mateu #5, Baccarat Rouge 540, Ambre Supreme, Les Indomables, Ambre Eternel, Atlantic Ambergris II, Parfum Privé, Strawberry Seduction, Curacao Bay, Supremacy Not Only Intense, Mitsouko, Ambre Nuit, Ambre Sultan |
| Type | Natural raw material derived from sperm whales |
| Colour | White/grey, standard (brown/grey/ash), black |
| Texture | Soft, firm, hard |
| Scent | Woody, ambery, sweet, earthy, musky, marine, leathery, tobacco-like, creamy, manure-like, animalic |
| Use | Longevity, base note |
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What You'll Learn
The history of ambergris in perfume
Ambergris is a highly valuable ingredient in perfumery, used for hundreds of years, even millennia. It is produced in the digestive system of sperm whales and is excreted by the animal—although it was previously believed to be whale vomit.
Freshly produced ambergris has a strong, unpleasant odour, often likened to manure or faeces. However, as it ages, its scent matures and develops a sweet, earthy fragrance. The longer it floats in the ocean, the more refined its scent becomes. Ambergris is sought after by perfumers for its ability to enhance a fragrance's staying power and make it last longer on the skin. It is also said to ''round out' a scent, adding depth and complexity.
Historically, ambergris has been used in food and drink, as well as in perfume. It was burned as incense by the ancient Egyptians, and the Chinese referred to it as 'dragon's spittle fragrance'. During the Black Death in Europe, it was believed that carrying a ball of ambergris could prevent the plague.
Today, many perfumes use synthetic ambergris due to ethical and environmental concerns, as well as the erratic supply of wild-harvested ambergris. Examples of perfumes that use ambergris include Soleil de Jeddah, Rosendo Mateu #5, Baccarat Rouge 540, Ambre Supreme, and Les Indomables.
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How is ambergris obtained?
Ambergris is a rare and valuable substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. It is sometimes found in the abdomens of dead sperm whales, but it is more commonly expelled by the whale and floats in the ocean for years before making landfall. The process of how ambergris forms in whales is not fully understood, but it is believed to be a byproduct of the sperm whale's unique digestive system, which is adapted to process large marine prey such as squid.
The colour of ambergris can vary from black to grey to white, and its texture can range from soft and sticky to hard and brittle. When it is first expelled by the whale, ambergris is usually pale white or black, soft, and has a strong faecal odour. Over time, the colour darkens to grey or black, the texture becomes crusty and waxy, and the odour becomes sweeter and earthier, with marine and animalic notes.
There are conflicting opinions about how ambergris is expelled from the whale. Some believe that it is regurgitated, earning it the nickname
Ambergris is often found washed up on coastlines or floating on the ocean surface. It is typically found in lumps of various shapes and sizes, weighing from 15 grams to 50 kilograms or more. Ambergris is rare and is only found in less than 5% of whale carcasses. It is primarily found in the Atlantic Ocean and on the coasts of South Africa, Brazil, Madagascar, the East Indies, the Maldives, China, Japan, India, Australia, New Zealand, and the Molucca Islands. Most commercially collected ambergris comes from the Bahamas.
Due to its rarity and unique scent properties, ambergris has been highly valued by perfumers for hundreds of years. It is used as a fixative to make the scent of a perfume last longer and to enhance other perfume ingredients. However, due to accessibility and cost issues, synthetic chemicals such as ambroxide have now replaced ambergris in all but the most expensive perfumes.
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Different qualities of ambergris
Ambergris is a rare and precious ingredient that has been used in perfumes for hundreds of years. It is a waxy substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. The specific scent characteristics of ambergris vary depending on factors such as geographic origin, exposure to environmental conditions, and age. Here are the different qualities of ambergris:
White/Grey Ambergris
White or grey ambergris is considered high-quality. It has a white or partially white coating with a light interior colour. Pieces of this type are typically smaller due to spending more time in the ocean. White ambergris has two primary scent profiles: Fresh Oceanic and Warm. This variety adds a fresh, airy dimension to perfumes, capturing the nuanced and ephemeral beauty of the sea.
Standard Ambergris
Standard-quality ambergris is typically brown, grey, or ash in colour. It has a stronger fragrance than white ambergris but is still pleasant. The pieces can be larger, and you may notice some layers in the material.
Black Ambergris
Black ambergris is the lowest quality. It can be very hard, firm, or soft in texture. The fragrance is usually strong, animalic, heavy, and fecal. Freshly produced ambergris often has a marine, fecal odour, but over time, it develops a sweet, earthy scent.
The colour of ambergris changes with oxidation, which occurs through exposure to the sea, air, and sun. The longer it spends in the ocean, the darker it becomes, transforming from pale white to dark grey or black.
The differences in appearance, fragrance, and quality among the various types of ambergris showcase the intriguing characteristics of this rare and valuable substance.
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Perfumes that use ambergris
Ambergris is a natural, rare, and expensive ingredient derived from sperm whales. It has been used in perfumes for hundreds of years, including in ancient Egypt and the Middle East. Today, it is often ethically sourced by harvesting it from the ocean after it has been rejected by the whale.
The scent of ambergris is woody, ambery, sweet, earthy, and musky with marine facets. It is used as a base note in perfumes and helps the fragrance last longer on the skin.
- Soleil de Jeddah
- Rosendo Mateu #5 - a powdery, slightly floral, warm, and inviting fragrance with a long-lasting impression.
- Baccarat Rouge 540 - a light and airy blend of ambergris with jasmine, saffron, and cedarwood.
- Ambre Supreme - a mesmerizing and rich eau de parfum with strong ambergris notes combined with patchouli and vanilla.
- Mitsouko by Guerlain (an older fragrance)
- Ambre Nuit by Dior (a more recent perfume)
- Ambre Sultan by Serge Lutens
Some fragrances use synthetic ambergris, such as Ambroxan, due to the rarity and cost of natural ambergris. Synthetic ambergris perfumes include:
- Les Indomedables - Escale en Indonesie and Ambre Supreme
- Issey Miyake's Homme Intense
- Guerlain Ambre Eternel
- Areej Le Doré Atlantic Ambergris II
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Synthetic alternatives to ambergris
Ambergris is a rare and expensive ingredient, and for this reason, many perfumes now use synthetic alternatives. One of the most common synthetic alternatives to ambergris is ambroxide, which is produced synthetically and used extensively in the perfume industry.
Another synthetic alternative is Ambroxan, which is a single synthetic molecule that replicates one of the components of natural ambergris. It is often listed as an ingredient in fragrances, but some argue that it is not the same as real ambergris and that its use can be misleading.
There are also plant-based alternatives to ambergris, such as labdanum, which is a gum-resin found on the roots of plants. Labdanum has a highly animalic smell and is designed as a plant-based alternative to traditional animal-based components of perfumery. Other plant-based alternatives include Ambrarome and Ambrain, which are extracted from labdanum resin.
Some perfumes may also use a blend of ingredients to create a warm scent reminiscent of ambergris, without actually containing any ambergris. These blends typically include ingredients such as labdanum, vanilla, benzoin, and other fixatives.
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Frequently asked questions
Ambergris is a waxy material made in the belly of a sperm whale. It is one of the main natural animal notes used in perfumery.
Ambergris has a woody, ambery, sweet-earthy, and musky-marine scent. It has similar scent qualities to sandalwood and tobacco.
Perfumes that contain ambergris include Soleil de Jeddah, Rosendo Mateu #5, Baccarat Rouge 540, Ambre Supreme, Les Indomables: Escale en Indonesie, Guerlain Ambre Eternel, Areej Le Doré Atlantic Ambergris II, and Parfum Privé.
Ambergris has been used in perfumes for hundreds of years. It is a rare and expensive ingredient that helps the perfume stay longer on the skin.
