Heidi Norton
Fragrance oils are a common ingredient in many products, from candles to cosmetics. However, the term fragrance on a product label can be misleading, as it may conceal a cocktail of toxic chemicals. One group of chemicals often found in fragrances is phthalates, which are known to have harmful effects on human health, including endocrine disruption, hormone disruption, and harm to reproductive health. While some phthalates, like DBP and DEHP, are considered bad and classified as carcinogenic, others like Diethyl Phthalate (DEP) are deemed safe for use and are widely used in the fragrance industry. In addition to phthalates, fragrance oils may also contain other chemicals such as parabens, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), benzene derivatives, aldehydes, and silicone, which can contribute to air pollution, irritate the skin and eyes, and cause respiratory issues. The lack of transparency in ingredient labels makes it challenging for consumers to make informed choices, highlighting the need for better regulation and disclosure of potentially harmful chemicals in fragrances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Chemicals besides phthalate in fragrance oils | Benzene derivatives, aldehydes, volatile organic compounds (VOCs), Diethyl Phthalate (DEP) |
| Types of phthalates | Dibutyl Phthalate (DBP), Diethyl Hexyl Phthalate (DEHP), Benzyl Butyl Phthalate (BBP), Diisononyl Phthalate (DINP), Diisodecyl Phthalate (DIDP), Di-n-Octyl Phthalate (DnOp or DOP), Di-n-Hexyl Phthalate (DnHP) |
| Effects of phthalates | Endocrine-disrupting chemical (EDC), disrupt hormonal balance, cause developmental, reproductive, and other serious health issues, linked to cancer, birth defects, allergies, asthma, immune system issues, and respiratory issues |
| Safety of DEP | Safe for human health and the environment, safer than natural essential oils, not harmful, not a CMR, not a skin sensitizer or irritant |
| Organisations with no restrictions on DEP | FDA (Food and Drug Administration), IFRA (International Fragrance Association), RIFM (Research Institute of Fragrance Materials), US EPA (United States Environmental Protection Agency) |
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What You'll Learn
Benzene derivatives
The term "aromatic" in organic chemistry refers to compounds with sweet or spicy scents, and this class includes many benzene derivatives. The relation between benzene-derived compounds and sweet/spicy fragrances was established in the early 19th century. However, it is a misconception that all aromatic compounds contain a benzene ring in their structure. For example, camphor, which is extracted from the camphor laurel tree, has a strong, minty aroma but lacks a benzene ring.
In heterocycles, carbon atoms in the benzene ring are replaced with other elements, most commonly nitrogen. Replacing one CH with N results in the compound pyridine, C5H5N. While structurally related, benzene cannot be converted into pyridine. Replacing a second CH bond with N gives pyridazine, pyrimidine, or pyrazine, depending on the location of the second N atom.
The presence of benzene derivatives in fragrances is concerning due to their potential health risks. The International Agency for Research on Cancer (IARC) classifies benzene as "carcinogenic to humans," specifically linked to acute myeloid leukaemia (AML) and other forms of leukaemia. Exposure to benzene has also been associated with adverse effects on the eyes, skin, blood, respiratory and central nervous systems. Therefore, consumers are advised to opt for natural fragrances derived from plants, resins, and essential oils instead of synthetic fragrances that may contain hidden toxins.
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Volatile organic compounds (VOCs)
VOCs are emitted from chemically synthesized fragrances, as well as essential oils and natural materials such as citrus fruits and pine trees. Some of the main VOCs emitted from fragrances include ethanol, propylene glycol, and 3-ethylbenzaldehyde. 3-Ethylbenzaldehyde is a strong respiratory irritant, and VOCs can also cause headaches, dizziness, fatigue, cognitive impairment, and skin and eye irritation. They may also trigger allergic reactions and asthma.
The use of diffusers at room temperature increases the emissions of VOCs from liquid tea tree essential oil, and lower indoor air change rates are associated with significantly higher emitted concentrations of VOCs.
Some VOCs are classified as toxic or hazardous by federal laws, and they can react with ozone in the air to form dangerous secondary pollutants. For example, limonene reacts with ozone to form formaldehyde, a probable carcinogen and the most common VOC measured.
To reduce exposure to VOCs, people can make their own cleaning products using simple, low-VOC ingredients like soap and water, and avoid using sprays, which produce more airborne particles than wipes.
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Aldehydes
In addition to their use in perfumery, aldehydes are also used in personal care products, candles, and diffusers. They can be combined with methyl anthranilate to create unique aromas through a reaction known as Schiff's bases.
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Diethyl Phthalate (DEP)
DEP is commonly used in the fragrance industry as a solvent, blender, surfactant, and fixative to help extend the lifespan of fragrances. It is particularly useful in candle fragrances, as it helps dissolve the fragrance into the wax and prevents certain fragrance oils from forming crystals.
While some phthalates have been flagged as harmful, DEP is considered safe for human health and the environment by multiple authoritative organisations, including the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), the Research Institute of Fragrance Materials (RIFM), and the US Environmental Protection Agency (US EPA). These organisations have found no reason to restrict or warn against the use of DEP.
However, it is important to note that DEP has been linked to potential interference with human endogenous hormones. Studies in rats have shown that repeated administration of DEP results in the loss of germ cell populations in the testis, and exposure of pregnant rats to certain doses of DEP caused skeletal malformations in their offspring.
Despite these findings, DEP is widely used and has been deemed safe for human use, with some sources claiming it is even safer than natural essential oils.
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Carcinogens
The fragrance industry uses approximately 4,000 chemicals to formulate scents for use in personal care products, cleaning products, perfumes, and home care products. The single word '"fragrance"' on a product label can cover dozens, sometimes even hundreds, of chemicals. Many of these chemicals are linked to cancer, birth defects, endocrine disruption, and other chronic health problems.
One of the most common groups of chemicals found in fragrances is phthalates. Phthalates are well-known endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) that can disrupt hormonal balance and cause reproductive, developmental, and other serious health issues. According to the US Centers for Disease Control and Prevention (CDC), exposure to phthalates is widespread, especially in children and women of childbearing age. Phthalates are also linked to an increased risk of cancer, birth defects, and respiratory problems.
Another group of chemicals found in fragrances is volatile organic compounds (VOCs), which can contribute to air pollution and cause respiratory issues. Fragrances can also contain benzene derivatives and aldehydes, which have been linked to cancer, allergies, asthma, immune system issues, and respiratory issues.
It is important to note that not all fragrance chemicals are harmful. Many essential oils, for example, have been used for centuries and have positive health effects, including antioxidant, antimicrobial, and antitumor activities. However, some essential oils, such as lavender and tea tree oil, have been linked to gynecomastia (growth of breast tissue) in young boys.
To reduce exposure to potentially harmful chemicals in fragrances, consumers can choose fragrance-free products or products from companies that have committed to full fragrance ingredient disclosure. Reading labels carefully and avoiding products that list 'fragrance' or 'parfum' can also help, as these terms often indicate the presence of hidden chemicals.
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Frequently asked questions
Phthalates are a group of chemicals with varying structures. They are odorless, colorless, and oily, which makes them difficult to evaporate. They are known to be endocrine-disrupting chemicals (EDCs) and can be harmful to human health and well-being.
Besides phthalates, fragrance oils may contain volatile organic compounds (VOCs), benzene derivatives, and aldehydes, among others. These chemicals can contribute to air pollution and cause respiratory issues, allergies, and skin irritation.
To avoid exposure to phthalates and other harmful chemicals in fragrances, opt for natural perfumes that use botanical extracts and natural ingredients. Check the ingredient labels and avoid products that list "fragrance" or "parfum" as these terms can hide hundreds of undesirable ingredients. Choose products in glass bottles instead of plastic containers, and always refer to the manufacturing ethics of the brand.
The cosmetics industry is largely unregulated, and companies often cite trade secrets as a reason for not disclosing ingredients. However, certain types of phthalates, such as DBP and DEHP, have been banned in the European Union for use in cosmetics and skincare products since 2004. Organizations like the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and the US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) have not placed any restrictions or warnings on the use of Diethyl Phthalate (DEP), a specific type of phthalate deemed safe for human use.
