Katrina Rosales
There are various methods used to make perfume, with the process depending on the materials used. Common aromatics used for perfume include plant materials (flowers, leaves, and herbs) and essential oils. The method used to make perfume has evolved over time, with ancient civilizations using natural ingredients and techniques to extract perfume oils, such as the expression method, which involves pressing ingredients until oils are extracted, and the distillation method, which involves heating plant material and collecting the fragrant steam produced. Modern perfume-making practices may use synthetic chemicals to emulate certain scents, and popular perfumes today may use a combination of both ancient and modern techniques.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Common aromatics | Plant materials (flowers, leaves, herbs) and essential oils |
| Container | Clean, glass, dark-coloured, tight-fitting lid |
| Carrier | Alcohol, oil |
| Notes | Top, middle, base |
| Oil extraction methods | Steam distillation, boiling, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, expression |
| Synthetic chemicals | Used to emulate scents that don't occur in nature or don't produce essential oils |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing a method: Using plant materials or essential oils
There are two common aromatics used for perfume: plant materials and essential oils. The method for making perfume will vary slightly depending on the materials used.
Using plant materials
Plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and herbs can be used to make perfume. Ancient civilizations infused body lotions and water with aromatic flowers and different types of wood. They also burned incense made from spices such as cinnamon and myrrh, and extracted oils from plants.
To extract oils from plants, ancient civilizations used various methods, including:
- Enfleurage: This process involves placing flowers or organic material in a fat or oil base to extract the fragrance. This method is both costly and labor-intensive.
- Distillation: This method involves heating the plant material and collecting the fragrant steam that is produced.
- Maceration: This process involves soaking organic material in oil or water until the fragrance is released.
- Expression: This method involves pressing the plant material until all the oils are extracted.
Using essential oils
Essential oils are another popular choice for making perfume. If you want an all-natural perfume, only use essential oils. Fragrance oils can contain synthetics but have already been diluted in carrier oil so they tend to be less irritating.
To make perfume using essential oils, you will need:
- Essential oils of your choice
- A carrier oil such as jojoba oil or vitamin E oil
- Alcohol (high-quality, 80- to 100-proof vodka or 190-proof alcohol)
- Dark glass containers
- Droppers, pipettes, and other measuring tools
- Distilled/spring water
- Glycerine
Once you have gathered your materials and chosen your essential oils, you can start blending them together. Add your base notes, middle notes, and top notes to your bottle, close the lid, and gently shake to mix the oils. Then, add alcohol and distilled water to dilute the fragrance and help preserve it. Finally, pour your perfume into your dark glass container to protect it from light and prolong its lifespan.
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Notes: Top, middle, and base notes
Making perfume involves blending different notes, or layers of scent, to create a harmonious fragrance. These notes are not just ingredients; they are the storytellers of a scent, each playing a unique role in the olfactory experience, creating depth, balance, and emotion. The three main layers of perfume notes are top notes, middle notes, and base notes.
Top notes, also known as head notes, are the initial scent when you first apply the perfume, capturing immediate attention with their bright and fleeting scents. Common top notes include lemon, orange, grapefruit, lime, bergamot, spearmint, and peppermint and mandarin. They are followed by middle notes, also called heart notes, which emerge once the top notes disappear. Middle notes are well-rounded and full-bodied aromas that define the perfume's character and provide balance. They are often warm, floral, or herbal, and last approximately 20-60 minutes. Examples of middle notes include coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, and petitgrain, and lavender, as well as jasmine, rose, cinnamon, and cardamom.
Base notes, also referred to as bottom notes, appear after the middle notes and form the foundation of the perfume. They are deep, rich scents with robustness and staying power, often remaining noticeable for several hours or even the entire day. Common base notes include patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, and sandalwood and musk, vanilla, and amber.
When mixing your own perfume, it is recommended to start by adding your base notes, followed by the middle notes, and then the top notes. This allows for a seamless transition between the different layers, creating a complex and captivating journey for the senses.
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Extraction: Steam distillation, enfleurage, and expression
There are various methods used to make perfume, including extraction through steam distillation, enfleurage, and expression.
Steam Distillation
Steam distillation is a process used to extract essential oils and aromatic components from plant materials. It is the most commonly used distillation technique in perfumery. In this process, natural plant or flower elements are introduced to steam, which causes the fragrant oils to vaporize. The steam then transports the aromatic oils to produce essential oil. The mist or haze created is condensed through cooling equipment and collected, resulting in an essential oil that represents the natural aroma element in a concentrated state.
Enfleurage
Enfleurage is a technique that was widely used during the 18th century and allowed for the extraction of perfume from fragile plants that could not withstand distillation. It involves using plants from which the fragrance is to be extracted and oil or fat. The oil or fat traps the fragrance of the plants, and this mixture is then filtered to remove pieces of flowers. Everything is then washed with alcohol to keep only what has captured the fragrance. There are two types of enfleurage: cold and hot. Hot enfleurage, also called maceration, involves heating plants that can withstand heat, such as mimosa, in oil or fat to between 40° and 60° in a bain-marie. This process lasts two hours, with regular mixing. Cold enfleurage does not involve heat and was the technique used in antiquity.
Expression
Expression is a technique used to capture the scent of citrus fruits. Also called cold pressing, this technique extracts the scent from the tiny glands found in the peel. The whole fruit can be pressed, and the juice separated from the essential oil using a centrifuge. Alternatively, just the peel can be crushed to recover the essential oil. The first technique, called "sponge," involved emptying the fruits to keep only the peel, wetting both parts, and then pressing the peel on sponges to recover the essence of the fruit.
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Blending: Alcohol, carrier oils, and glycerine
Blending is a crucial step in perfume-making, involving the combination of various ingredients such as alcohol, carrier oils, and glycerine to create a harmonious fragrance. Alcohol is a key ingredient in perfume-making, acting as a fixative and helping to diffuse the perfume's notes. High-proof alcohol, typically 80- to 100-proof (40% to 50% alcohol by volume), is commonly used by DIY perfumers. Vodka is a popular choice due to its availability and quick evaporation. However, some perfumers opt for 190-proof alcohol, although it may be more challenging to obtain and is often sold in large, expensive bottles. For a natural perfume, Everclear is considered the best option, but it is illegal in many states. As an alternative, grape alcohol can be used.
Carrier oils are another essential component in blending. They serve as a base for the fragrance, carrying the scent onto the skin and diluting concentrated oils to prevent skin irritation. Common carrier oils include jojoba oil and vitamin E oil, although some perfumers use olive oil or other types of oil. It is important to note that carrier oils do not aid in evaporation, so they are not suitable for evaluating the odour profile of materials. Additionally, they may not provide a full scent profile for evaluation purposes.
When blending alcohol and carrier oils, it is crucial to use a scale instead of drops to ensure an accurate and repeatable formula. The general guideline is to limit carrier oils to 25% of the total volume to ensure the perfume sprays properly.
Glycerine, also known as glycerin, is a natural fixative that can be added to the blend. It does not alter the scent but enhances the fragrance's longevity and provides skin protection. Glycerine is particularly beneficial for those seeking to create a spray perfume, as it helps to emulsify the blend and prevent separation.
The blending process typically involves combining the base, middle, and top notes in a clean glass container with a tight-fitting lid. Dark containers are recommended to protect the perfume from light and extend its lifespan. The ingredients are then gently mixed, ensuring that the alcohol and oils are properly blended. It is important to note that some materials may require gentle warming to liquefy before blending.
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Containers: Dark glass bottles
When it comes to creating perfume, the containers used for storage and presentation are just as important as the fragrance itself. Dark glass bottles, in particular, have become a popular choice for perfumers and consumers alike.
Firstly, dark glass bottles offer protection from light, especially ultraviolet (UV) light, which can cause photodegradation. This process can alter the chemical composition of the perfume, breaking down the fragrance molecules and changing the scent. By using dark glass bottles, the amount of light that reaches the perfume is significantly reduced, thereby extending the shelf life of the product.
Additionally, dark glass bottles are aesthetically pleasing and carry a sense of luxury and quality. Historically, apothecaries and perfumers used dark glass bottles to store precious oils and tinctures, and this tradition has continued, with dark bottles often associated with medicinal or therapeutic products. The colour of the glass also helps to hide any discoloration of the liquid inside, maintaining the intended scent profile for longer.
In terms of durability, dark glass bottles tend to be more scratch-resistant and less prone to showing signs of wear and tear compared to clear glass alternatives. This makes them a versatile option for manufacturers, as they can be used for a wide range of fragrance types, including perfumes, colognes, and essential oils.
When choosing a container for your perfume, it is important to consider not only the aesthetic appeal but also the functional benefits that different materials and colours offer. Dark glass bottles provide a combination of protection, preservation, and presentation, ensuring that your fragrance remains intact and enjoyable for an extended period.
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Frequently asked questions
The first step in making perfume is to choose a method. The method for making perfume will vary slightly depending on your materials. Common aromatics used for perfume are plant materials (flowers, leaves, and herbs) and essential oils; the methods vary for each of these.
There are several methods for extracting oils from plants, including steam distillation, solvent extraction, enfleurage, maceration, and expression.
To make perfume, you will need a clean glass container with a tight-fitting lid, preferably dark to protect your perfume from light, a carrier oil (such as jojoba oil or olive oil), alcohol (such as vodka or Everclear), and essential oils or plant materials for fragrance.
