Choosing The Right Cologne: A Guide For Men

The world of perfume can be confusing, with many different types of fragrances available on the market today. One of the common misconceptions is that cologne is for men and perfume is for women. However, the difference between cologne and perfume is based on the concentration of fragrance oils. Cologne is considered a lighter form of fragrance than perfume as it has a lower concentration of fragrance oils and a higher concentration of alcohol. Cologne is the most diluted form of perfume, whereas perfume is the least diluted.

Cologne vs Perfume

The world of perfume can be confusing, with conflicting information regarding definitions and categorisation. One of the common misconceptions is that cologne is for men, while perfume is for women. However, this is not always the case.

History

The word perfume is derived from the Latin "per fumus", meaning "through smoke". The art of perfume-making is a historic craft that has evolved over 5,000 years, with its roots in Ancient Egypt, Mesopotamia, and Cyprus. Perfumes were blended with aromatics and rare raw materials such as resins, oils, and fragrant herbs.

The word cologne comes from the city of Cologne, Germany. The original formulation, or Eau de Cologne, was created by an Italian barber named Giovanni Paolo Feminis, who moved to Germany in 1709. His Aqua Mirabilis was made with highly rectified grape spirits, neroli, bergamot, lavender, and rosemary. The fragrance was then taken over by another Italian, Giovanni Maria Farina, who renamed it Eau de Cologne after his new hometown.

Concentration

The main difference between cologne and perfume is the concentration of fragrance. Perfumes have a higher concentration of fragrance, typically made with 20-30% aromatic compounds in an oil or alcohol base, and can last up to 24 hours on the skin. Colognes are more diluted, with 2-8% aromatic oils in an alcohol base, and are perfect for everyday wear. They generally last for a couple of hours after application.

Scent

Colognes tend to have a fresh scent profile, often with citrusy or aquatic notes such as orange blossom or ocean breeze. This makes them ideal for warmer months when heavier fragrances might feel too overwhelming.

Gender

While it is common for cologne to be marketed towards men and perfume towards women, this is a modern distinction. Traditionally, eau de colognes were unisex. Today, consumers are demonstrating a desire for personalisation and choosing fragrances that suit their individual preferences, regardless of gender.

History of Cologne

The word 'cologne' comes from the city of Cologne, Germany. The original Eau de Cologne was created by an Italian barber named Giovanni Paolo Feminis, who moved to Germany from Santa Maria Maggiore, Valle Vigezzo, in search of better opportunities. In 1709, Feminis began marketing a highly distilled "water" fragranced with herbs from the Italian tradition. His Aqua mirabilis was made of highly rectified grape spirits, neroli, bergamot, lavender, and rosemary. Feminis asked for assistance with the business from a relative, Giovanni Maria Farina, who was also an Italian-born perfumer. Farina took over the entire business and saw great success with the multi-purpose fragrant water, which eventually became known as the original Eau de Cologne. In a letter to his brother, Farina wrote that he set out to make a perfume that reminded him of "an Italian spring morning, of mountain daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain".

The city of Cologne has a rich history dating back to its establishment as a Roman colony in 50 CE. It was named Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium, shortened to Colonia, and later became the headquarters of the governor of Lower Germany. In 310 CE, Emperor Constantine the Great built a castle and a permanent bridge over the Rhine. Ceramics and glass were manufactured in Cologne during Roman times. In 456 CE, the city was conquered by the Franks and became the residence of the kings of the Ripuarian part of the Frankish kingdom.

During the Middle Ages, Cologne became an important trade centre and a significant ecclesiastical and artistic hub. The city's industry and trade flourished, and it became a prominent member of the Hanseatic League, a mercantile association. Crafts in Cologne included textile manufacturing, bookmaking, leatherworking, enamelling, and metalworking, with goldsmithing being particularly fine. The city was also a centre of learning, with three of the greatest Catholic scholars and theologians of medieval Scholasticism—Albertus Magnus, Thomas Aquinas, and John Duns Scotus—teaching in its schools.

In the late 18th century, Cologne's status as a free imperial city ended when it was taken by France. In 1815, the city passed to Prussia, marking the beginning of a new era of prosperity. Various industries thrived, and Cologne's geographic position made it an ideal railway centre. The population grew from 41,685 in 1801 to 372,529 in 1900.

During World War II, Cologne sustained 262 air raids, resulting in 20,000 casualties and the near-complete destruction of the Inner City. By March 1945, the population had sunk to 40,000. However, by December, the population had recovered to approximately 450,000, and the city began its reconstruction and development of new industrial areas and satellite towns.

Cologne for Men

Cologne is an essential part of a man's personal style and can have a powerful effect on how people see and remember you. A good cologne can make you more attractive, confident, and less stressed. However, 80% of men do not wear cologne regularly. This may be due to a lack of basic information and education about fragrances.

Types of Colognes

Colognes can be broadly categorized into the following types based on their concentration of aromatic compounds:

• Cologne ( Eau de Cologne): Oldest term for perfume, used in North America for masculine scents. Light, fresh, and fruity, it typically has 2-4% perfume oils in alcohol and water. It is often used in fragrances for younger people and lasts for about 2 hours.
• Toilette ( Eau de Toilette): A light spray composition with 5-15% pure perfume essence dissolved in alcohol. It usually lasts for about 3 hours.
• Perfume ( Eau de Parfum): Historically genderless, this term is best for describing a fragrance. Contains 15-20% pure perfume essence and lasts for about 5 to 8 hours.
• Parfum: The most concentrated and expensive of all fragrance options, with 20-30% pure perfume essence. A single application can last up to 24 hours.
• Eau Fraiche: The most diluted version of fragrance, with 1-3% perfume oil in alcohol and water. It usually lasts for less than an hour.
• Eau Fraîche: With only 1-3% aromatic compounds, this fragrance is ideal for sultry summer days when less is more.

Choosing a Cologne

When choosing a cologne, it is important to consider the occasion and the season. For example, light and crisp fragrances are better suited for summer, while heavier scents are more appropriate for winter. You should also choose a cologne that complements your natural body odour and suits your taste.

Applying Cologne

• Spray perfume on dry skin, preferably right after a shower.
• Start with one single spray on your chest and then branch out to a few more sprays in different areas as you become more comfortable.
• Apply fragrance to heat areas of the body such as the chest, neck, lower jaw, wrist, forearm, inner elbow, and shoulder.
• Re-spray only when required, usually in the second half of the day.
• Do not rub the perfume into the skin as it breaks the molecular bond, making the scent weaker.
• Do not spray and walk through the mist as most of the fragrance will drop to the floor.
• Do not spray fragrance on your clothes as it will not mix with your natural oils and may stain fabrics.
• Less is more - fragrance should be discovered, not announced.

How Cologne is Made

The name "cologne" comes from the city of Cologne, Germany, where the original formulation was created by an Italian barber named Giovanni Paolo Feminis in 1709. Feminis's Aqua Mirabilis was made of highly rectified grape spirits, neroli, bergamot, lavender, and rosemary.

Cologne is made by extracting scented oils from natural ingredients. These ingredients can include various plants, fruits, woods, and even animal secretions. Other resources like alcohol, coal, tars, and petrochemicals can be used during the manufacturing process.

There are several methods of extracting oils from plants and flowers:

• Solvent extraction: Flowers are placed in large rotating tanks and covered with benzene or petroleum ether, which extracts the essential oils. This leaves a waxy substance that contains the oil, which is then placed in ethyl alcohol. The oil dissolves in the alcohol, which is then burned off, leaving a highly concentrated perfume oil.
• Steam distillation: Natural materials are placed in a still and extracted using steam. The resulting substance is then passed through tubes, where it is cooled and liquefied.
• Boiling: Oils can be extracted by boiling flower petals in water.
• Enfleurage: Flowers or plant materials are spread on grease-coated glass sheets, which are then placed in tiers between wooden frames. The flowers are moved by hand and replaced until the grease absorbs the fragrance.
• Maceration: Similar to enfleurage, but warmed fats are used to soak up the fragrance. The fats are then dissolved in alcohol to obtain the essential oils.
• Expression: The oldest and simplest method of oil extraction, this process involves pressing the plant, either mechanically or manually, until all the oils are extracted.

Once the oils are extracted and collected, they are blended according to a formula predetermined by a master in the perfume industry, often referred to as a "nose." Many of these formulas are carefully created over several years and can include hundreds of different ingredients.

After blending, the scent is mixed with varying amounts of alcohol. The amount of alcohol determines whether the final product will be a cologne, perfume, or eau de toilette. Cologne typically contains around 10% oil, while perfume contains up to 40% and eau de toilette up to 15%.

The mixture then goes through an aging process, where it is kept undisturbed in a cool, dark area for several months to a year. This allows the alcohol and essential oils to permanently bond, creating a stronger scent.

Types of Cologne

The world of fragrances is complex, and cologne is just one of the many types. Originating in Cologne, Germany, in the early 18th century, cologne was initially intended to be a unisex fragrance. Today, cologne is a classification of fragrance based on the percentage or concentration of fragrance oils used in producing it.

Colognes typically contain a concentration of fragrance oils between 2% and 5%. Due to the low percentage of fragrance oils, a cologne's scent usually lasts for about two hours. In North America, cologne has become a blanket term for masculine fragrances, but unisex colognes can be found.

Colognes are often sold in large bottles as they need to be reapplied regularly. They are also fairly inexpensive.

Other forms of fragrance include perfume, Eau de Parfum, Eau Fraiche, and Eau de Toilette.

• Perfume or Parfum contains the highest concentration of fragrance oil, ranging from 20% to 30%. Given its concentration of oil, it’s no surprise that perfume has the longest staying power and can last on your skin up to 24 hours—typically, eight to 12 hours is more common.
• Eau de Parfum is one of the most versatile types of fragrance on the market. It generally contains a fragrance concentration between 15% and 20%. It typically lasts around six to eight hours on your skin.
• Eau de Toilette has a fragrance concentration between 5% and 15% and usually lasts for three to six hours.
• Eau Fraiche is usually in the 1% to 3% fragrance oil range. It also doesn’t have a high concentration of alcohol. Eau Fraiche lasts less than two hours.

Frequently asked questions