Anisha Riggs
Tabu, The Forbidden Fragrance, is a women's perfume created by French perfumer Jean Carles for House of Dana in 1931. It was the first creation of House of Dana and one of the first perfumes in the Oriental fragrance category. The scent is described as warm, spicy, and clove-like, with notes of mandarin orange, myrrh, musk, patchouli, oak moss, and benzoin. The perfume has a reputation for being sensual and exotic, with a marketing campaign that evokes dreams of forbidden but exciting terrain.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fragrance Family | Oriental |
| Top Notes | Italian Bergamot, Lemon Oil |
| Middle/Heart Notes | Bulgarian Rose, Ylang-Ylang, Jasmine Absolute, Clove, Civet |
| Base Notes | Patchouli, Oakmoss, Benzoin (vanilla effect), Amber, Musk |
| Other Notes | Mandarin Orange, Myrrh, Bergamot, Neroli, Orange, Coriander, Narcissus, Clover, Rose, Cedar, Sandalwood, Vetiver, Coriander |
| Perfumer | Jean Carles |
| Year of Creation | 1931 or 1932 |
| Brand | Dana |
| Perfumery | The House of Dana |
| Headquarters | Paris |
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What You'll Learn
Tabu by Dana: a women's fragrance created in 1931
Tabu by Dana is a women's fragrance created by French perfumer Jean Carles in 1931. The House of Dana was established in Barcelona, Spain, by lawyer Javier Serra in 1932, and the perfume Tabu was launched in August of the same year. It was one of the first perfumes in the Oriental fragrance category.
The perfume has been described as "warm and cozy", with top notes of Italian bergamot and lemon oil, heart notes of Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, and jasmine absolute, and base notes of patchouli, oakmoss, benzoin, amber, and musk. Other notes include civet, clove, coriander, and vanilla. The scent has been characterized as spicy, oriental, and sensual, with a "cola-esque" backdrop.
The name "Tabu" was inspired by the Sigmund Freud book "Totem and Taboo" that Serra came across while walking down a street in Nice, France. The marketing campaign for Tabu featured the 1901 painting "La Sonate à Kreutzer" by French artist René-Xavier Prinet, which showed a violinist overcome with passion, embracing his female piano accompanist. The slogan for the perfume was "Tabu, the forbidden fragrance."
Over the years, Tabu has gained a cult following, with some praising its unique, sensual scent and others criticizing changes to its formula. It has been described as a classic oriental perfume that evokes dreams of forbidden but exciting terrain.
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Oriental scent with notes of clove, patchouli, and musk
Tabu by Dana is a women's fragrance created by French perfumer Jean Carles and launched in 1932. It is one of the first perfumes in the Oriental fragrance category, featuring top notes of Italian bergamot and lemon oil, heart notes of Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, and jasmine absolute, and base notes of patchouli, oakmoss, benzoin, amber, and musk. The scent is described as warm, spicy, and clove-like, with a hint of mandarin orange, myrrh, and musk, adding a sensual and exotic touch.
The perfume has a sensual and passionate reputation, evoking dreams of forbidden but exciting terrain for the wearer. It has been described as "the forbidden fragrance," with advertising campaigns featuring the 1901 painting "La Sonate à Kreutzer" by French artist René-Xavier Prinet, which captures a moment of passionate embrace. The scent has a vintage, exotic feel, with some reviewers commenting on its warm, cozy, and inviting aroma, reminiscent of clove cigarettes.
The name "Tabu" was inspired by the founder of DANA Parfums, Javier Serra, who came across the cover of Sigmund Freud's book "Totem and Taboo" while walking down a street in Nice, France. The perfume has a long history, with some reviewers recalling wearing it in their teens and still appreciating its scent decades later. However, there have been mixed reviews about the changes in the scent's formulation over time, with some noticing differences in the fragrance's quality and colour.
Overall, Tabu by Dana remains a classic oriental perfume, known for its warm, spicy, and sensual aroma, leaving a lasting impression on those who encounter it. Its unique blend of oriental spices, florals, and musky base notes creates an exotic and passionate fragrance experience.
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Inspired by Sigmund Freud's book Totem & Taboo
Tabu, the perfume, was launched by the House of Dana, a perfumery established in Barcelona, Spain, in 1932. It was created by French perfumer Jean Carles in 1931. Carles used a high dose of patchouli (10%), combined with clove (carnation), oak moss, and benzoin (vanilla effect). Other notes include bergamot, neroli, orange, coriander, narcissus, clover, rose, ylang-ylang, jasmine, cedar, sandalwood, vetiver, civet, amber, and musk.
The perfume's name was inspired by the cover of Sigmund Freud's book, 'Totem & Taboo', which the founder of Dana Parfums, Javier Serra, spotted while walking down a street in Nice, France. Freud's book explores the two principal themes of totem and taboo, and their connections to the psychology of primitive societies and individuals.
The book is a collection of four essays, including "The Horror of Incest", which discusses incest taboos in societies that believe in totemism. Freud's work in this area suggests that totemism and its restrictions on exogamy stem from a fear of incest. He also examines the widespread practices of avoidance in certain cultures, such as the prohibition of interaction between brothers and sisters after puberty.
Another essay, "Taboo and Emotional Ambivalence", delves into the relationship between taboos and totemism, highlighting the ambivalent attitude individuals have towards taboo prohibitions. Freud suggests that while people may have an unconscious desire to transgress these taboos, their fear of doing so is stronger than the pleasure they anticipate.
The perfume Tabu, inspired by Freud's book title, evokes a sense of forbidden excitement and has become a classic oriental perfume with a sensual reputation.
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The forbidden fragrance: advertising and associations
Tabu, "The Forbidden Fragrance", was the first perfume created by the House of DANA, a perfumery established in Barcelona, Spain, in 1932. It was conceived by founder Javier Serra, who was inspired by the name of a Sigmund Freud book, *Totem and Taboo*, that he saw on a street in Nice, France. Tabu was intended to evoke dreams of "forbidden but exciting terrain". Its long-running print advertisement featured the 1901 painting *La Sonate à Kreutzer* by René-Xavier Prinet, which shows a violinist, overcome with passion, breaking off his performance to embrace his female piano accompanist. The painting was inspired by the novella *The Kreutzer Sonata* by Leo Tolstoy.
Tabu is one of the first "oriental" scents in the perfume world, with top notes of Italian bergamot and lemon oil, heart notes of Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, and jasmine absolute, and base notes of patchouli, oakmoss, benzoin, amber, and musk. It also features spices such as cloves, civet, and coriander, as well as florals like jasmine and rose. The perfume has been described as warm, cozy, spicy, and sensual, with a cola-esque backdrop.
The associations of Tabu with the forbidden and the sensual are reflected in its advertising and packaging. The perfume is known for its iconic violin-shaped bottle, which further emphasises the connection to the Tolstoy novella and its themes of passion and desire.
Over the years, Tabu has developed a reputation as a classic oriental perfume, with a loyal following of customers who appreciate its unique and evocative scent. While the formula has reportedly changed over time, with some noting a difference in scent and colour, as well as skin irritation, it remains a sought-after fragrance, especially in its vintage form.
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Changes in the scent over time
The scent of Tabu, a women's fragrance by Dana, has likely changed over time since its creation in 1931 by French perfumer Jean Carles. While the perfume features prominent notes of cloves, patchouli, civet, and musk, its composition may have been altered due to various factors, including ingredient availability, formula updates, and preservation methods.
Firstly, changes in the availability of specific ingredients can lead to modifications in the original formula. For instance, the molecule Lilial, cherished for its lily-of-the-valley-like floral notes, was banned in 2022 due to suspected endocrine disruption. Perfumers had to substitute it with biodegradable alternatives like Nympheal or Lilybelle, resulting in subtle shifts in the fragrance's character.
Secondly, perfume brands often discreetly adjust their recipes without announcing these changes to consumers. This practice can lead to noticeable differences in the scent over time, even though the bottle and name remain unchanged. Such modifications may be implemented for various reasons, including cost reduction, allergen removal, or improvements in the fragrance's performance or longevity.
Additionally, preservation methods can influence how a perfume's scent evolves over time. The main enemies of perfume are sunlight, strong electrical light, oxygen, heat, and humidity, which accelerate the ageing and spoiling process. As such, storing Tabu perfume in environments with frequent temperature fluctuations or exposure to these elements could have altered its chemical makeup and, consequently, its fragrance.
Moreover, changes in skin chemistry with age can also impact how Tabu perfume interacts with the wearer's skin. For example, post-menopausal women may experience declining oestrogen levels, resulting in drier skin. This alteration in skin moisture affects how the perfume's active components interact and dissipate, potentially changing the overall scent profile over time.
Lastly, individual perception and preference can play a role in the perceived changes in Tabu's scent over time. As people age, their sense of smell can fade, a condition known as presbyosmia. This may lead to a preference for stronger scents as subtler aromas become more challenging to detect. Additionally, the emotional connection and memories associated with a fragrance can influence how it is perceived over time, adding a layer of subjectivity to the scent's interpretation.
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Frequently asked questions
Tabu is a classic oriental perfume with a sensual reputation. It is highlighted by fresh citrus and enriched with essential oils of luxurious flowers and sensual woods.
The top notes of Tabu are Italian bergamot and lemon oil.
The middle or heart notes of Tabu are Bulgarian rose, ylang-ylang, and jasmine absolute.
The base notes of Tabu are patchouli, oakmoss, benzoin (vanilla effect), amber, and musk.
Tabu was the first creation of the House of DANA, launched in 1932. It was created by French perfumer Jean Carles and was one of the first "oriental" scents in the perfume world.
