Lance Carson
Making perfume is a blend of art and science, requiring experimentation and a deep understanding of scent chemistry. The first step is to decide on a concept or inspiration for the fragrance. Once the concept is clear, the next step is to source the raw materials. Natural ingredients like jasmine, rose, and lavender are commonly used, as are synthetic compounds created in laboratories. After the ingredients are gathered, the perfumer starts blending them, typically using a carrier oil such as jojoba or almond oil, and adding the base, middle, and top notes. The perfume blend is then aged for several weeks or months, diluted with alcohol or water, and bottled.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Scents | Floral, oriental, woody, fresh, etc. |
| Fragrance Notes | Top notes: Mandarin, Bergamot, Jasmine, Rose, Orange Blossoms, Lemon, Orange, Grapefruit, Lime, etc. Middle notes: Coriander, Tagete, Armoise, Palmarosa, Marjoram, Basil, Rosemary, Rose Geranium, Pettitgrain, Lavender, etc. Base notes: Amber, Oakmoss, Patchouli, Vetiver, Frankincense, Cedarwood, Sandalwood, etc. |
| Ingredients | Essential oils, fragrance oils, infused oils, flavour extracts, alcohol, distilled/spring water, glycerine, etc. |
| Tools | Glass bottles, preferably coloured or covered with aluminium foil/wrapping paper, jars, funnels, measuring cups, scales, etc. |
| Process | Conceptualisation, sourcing raw materials, blending, ageing, dilution, bottling and packaging. |
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What You'll Learn
Sourcing raw materials
Natural ingredients like jasmine, rose, sandalwood, and vetiver are commonly used in perfumes. These ingredients are extracted from plants using methods such as steam distillation, solvent extraction, or cold pressing. The resulting raw material can be an essential oil, absolute, or CO2 extract. Flowers like rose, jasmine, and lavender are popular choices for floral scents, while citrus fruits like lemon, lime, and orange add fresh, zesty notes. Spices such as cinnamon, cardamom, and vanilla enhance warmth and depth, and wood and resins, including sandalwood, cedar, and oud, provide earthy, woody tones.
Synthetic ingredients were introduced in the late 19th century, allowing perfumers to expand their palettes and create entirely new scents. Synthetic raw materials can be purchased from various suppliers, such as Fraterworks, which offers exclusive tinctures, vintage bases, and natural ingredients.
When sourcing raw materials, it is important to consider the desired fragrance concept and the different notes that will create a harmonious scent. Top notes are the initial scents when you spray a perfume, followed by heart or middle notes that add character, and finally, the base notes that have the longest staying power and determine the fragrance's character.
In addition to fragrance components, other raw materials such as alcohol, distilled water, and glycerine are needed for dilution and preservation. These can be purchased from online retailers or local stores.
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Blending notes
Blending the right notes is a cornerstone of fragrance creation. It involves the precise fusing of diverse natural and synthetic aroma materials to create a harmonious olfactory profile. The process is a blend of art and science, requiring patience, creativity, and a deep understanding of scent chemistry.
The first step in creating a perfume is to decide on a concept or inspiration. This creative phase is about determining the kind of fragrance you want to make. Perfumers often draw inspiration from nature, emotions, or memories. Once the fragrance concept is clear, the next step is sourcing the raw materials. Natural ingredients like jasmine, rose, sandalwood, and vetiver are extracted from plants, while synthetic compounds are created in laboratories. Synthetic notes add specific aspects to perfumery, like aldehydes, which can be metallic, clean, or slightly soapy.
The three main categories of notes are top, middle, and base. Top notes are the initial scents you smell when you spray a perfume, and they evaporate quickly. Middle notes appear just after the top note disappears, and base notes appear last and form the foundation of the perfume. When mixing your perfume, start by adding your base notes, then middle notes, then top notes. The majority of essential oils fall somewhere in the middle, leaning more towards the top or bottom compared to other oils in the blend.
To properly layer scents, start by adding a potent creamy base, then essential oils, and lastly, light alcohol-based fragrances. One popular ratio to follow is 20% top notes, 30% heart or middle notes, and 50% base notes. However, perfumers must experiment with different ratios and combinations until they achieve the desired result.
After blending, let your perfume sit for a few days to a week. The aroma will likely change during this time, and smelling it straight from the bottle might not give you an accurate sense of the blend. Test it out by putting a drop on a cotton ball or spraying it on your pressure points to see how the aroma changes over time when exposed to air.
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Diluting the fragrance
When making an alcohol-based perfume spray, perfumers alcohol is the recommended solvent. This option is suitable for creating fragrances for experimentation, evaluation, and alcohol-based products. However, using perfumers alcohol may restrict the ability to add dilutions to other bases such as candles, creams, detergents, or oils. It is important to note that diluting with perfumers alcohol will limit the versatility of the final product.
An alternative solvent commonly used in the fragrance industry is Di Propylene Glycol (DPG). DPG is a more flexible option as it can be used in a broader range of bases compared to perfumers alcohol. However, it is derived from petrochemicals, making it less suitable for natural perfumery.
The dilution ratio can vary depending on the desired concentration and type of perfume. For example, Parfum, or Perfume, has the highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically ranging from 20% to 30%, resulting in a long-lasting scent. On the other hand, Eau de Parfum (EDP) is slightly less concentrated, with a fragrance oil concentration of 15% to 20%, but still offers good longevity.
When diluting, it is essential to consider the ratio of fragrance oil to solvent. For instance, in a 200-drop perfume, 40 drops (20%) of essential oil and 140 drops (70%) of alcohol are combined, leaving 20 drops (10%) for distilled water. This calculation ensures the desired concentration and allows for easier measurement.
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Ageing the perfume
Ageing is a critical element of the art of perfumery, enhancing the depth and complexity of fragrances. The process involves chemical interactions between fragrance ingredients and elements like oxygen and light, changing the scent over time. As top notes evaporate, heart and base notes become more prominent, resulting in a richer fragrance. This maturation process can improve the perfume's sillage (the scent trail) and longevity (how long it lasts on the skin).
The ageing process allows the different components of the perfume to interact, with the gradual evaporation of alcohol creating a deeper bond among the ingredients, giving them a distinct character that enhances their durability and longevity. Natural essential oils, such as those from flowers and spices, blend harmoniously as they age, while synthetic molecules can change in nuance and depth. The choice of ingredients greatly influences the ageing process. Natural essences, like essential oils, often become richer and more complex over time. For example, oud and sandalwood deepen, while citrus notes may fade. Synthetic ingredients usually have more stable ageing characteristics, maintaining their initial scent profiles for longer.
To age perfume, it should be stored in a dark, cool place, protected from sunlight, heat, and humidity. Low and stable temperatures are crucial, ensuring a slow, balanced interaction of components that preserves the stability and quality of the scent. Light can break down sensitive fragrance compounds, so ageing should occur in dark places to avoid photodegradation and ensure the stability of the components. Low humidity levels are preferable, as excess moisture can promote bacterial growth and degrade aromatic components. Using high-quality, non-reactive glass containers further protects the fragrance components from harmful chemical reactions, contributing to the quality of ageing.
The length of the ageing process can vary depending on the desired maturity of the scent. Short-term ageing involves storing the blend in a dark, cool place for 2-4 weeks, allowing the top notes to harmonize with the middle and base notes. For a more mature scent, long-term ageing involves letting the perfume rest for 6 months to a year, during which the fragrance will develop depth and complexity.
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Bottling and packaging
Once the fragrance has been thoroughly tested and finalised, it is ready for bottling and packaging. The bottling and packaging stage is crucial to the marketing of perfumes. The design of the bottle, its colour, and the branding must reflect the concept of the fragrance and appeal to the target audience. For example, luxury perfumes often come in beautifully designed bottles that make the product feel special. The packaging provides the first impression of the perfume to consumers.
The shape of the perfume bottle is an important consideration. Most perfume bottles are rectangular to optimise space during transportation. However, some perfumes, especially expensive and exclusive goods, may have unusually shaped bottles. For instance, Comme des Garcons bottles are packed in plastic bags and then placed in a rectangular box.
The colour of the packaging is also significant. Consumers may associate certain colours with specific fragrances through synesthesia or cross-modal experiences. For example, Brazilian students consider yellow and orange to be joyful colours, while blue represents wisdom and comfort.
The type of bottle cap is another important consideration. Some consumers prefer magnetic caps, while others prioritise good caps and sprayers that function seamlessly.
In recent years, the perfume industry has shifted towards sustainable practices. Many brands now use eco-friendly packaging, ethically sourced ingredients, and cruelty-free testing methods.
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Frequently asked questions
The ingredients you need to make perfume include a combination of essential oils, fragrance oils, infused oils, and flavour extracts. You will also need a solvent, such as alcohol, to dissolve the oils and a fixative like glycerine to make the scent last longer. Common choices for the base oil include jojoba oil, almond oil, and grape seed oil.
The first step in creating perfume is to decide on the type of scent you want to make and the notes you want to include. The next step is to source the raw materials and blend them together, typically using a carrier oil as a base. The ideal ratio for blending notes is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. After blending, the perfume is aged for several weeks or months to allow the ingredients to merge and the scent to settle. Finally, the perfume is diluted with alcohol or water to achieve the desired concentration before bottling and packaging.
When making perfume, it is important to use a small scale to measure your ingredients accurately. It is also recommended to use dark glass containers to protect your perfume from light and prolong its lifespan. If you are making an alcohol-based perfume, you should let the blend sit for a week before adding the alcohol and then age it for at least a month to allow the scent to develop fully.
