Katrina Rosales
The oldest perfume house in the world is a contentious topic. Some sources claim that the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella is the oldest perfume house, with its first fragrance, Acqua di Colonia, developed for Catherine di Medici in 1533. However, others argue that the oldest perfume house is Farina in Cologne, Germany, founded in 1709 by Giovanni Maria Farina, an Italian. This company created the original Eau de Cologne, which became world-famous and is still produced and sold today by the eighth and ninth generations of the Farina family.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Name | Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella |
| Year founded | 1221 |
| Location | Florence |
| Other oldest perfume houses | Creed, Maison Oriza, Houbigant, Farina |
| Notes on Creed | Creed is a historic house for clothing, not fragrances. Creed claims to have been around since the 1700s, but this is disputed. |
| Notes on Maison Oriza | Founded in 1720 by Fargeon Aîné, perfumer and distiller to Louis XV of France. |
| Notes on Houbigant | Founded in 1775 by Jean-Francois Houbigant in Paris. |
| Notes on Farina | The birthplace of Eau de Cologne. |
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What You'll Learn
Creed: founded in the 1700s
Creed, a perfume house based in Paris, claims to have been founded in 1760 as a tailoring house in London, England, by James Henry Creed. However, some sources dispute this, stating that the earliest evidence of Creed's existence dates back to the late 1960s or early 1970s. Creed fragrances are now owned by the luxury group Kering and managed by its beauty division, Kering Beauté. The company has boutiques and stands in high-end retailers worldwide, including Paris, London, New York City, Beverly Hills, and Milan.
The House of Creed creates original, artisan fragrances using the finest ingredients from around the world. They claim to have created perfumes exclusively for celebrities and well-known political figures, such as a fragrance for a legendary British statesman who enjoyed fine brandy and cigars, and another for "one of America's leading families, a political dynasty known for its energy, vigor, and impeccable style." Creed's breakthrough success came in the mid-1980s with the release of Green Irish Tweed in 1985, which was followed by advertising campaigns featuring deceased celebrities to lend prestige to the brand.
Despite the disputes over its founding date, Creed has established itself as a renowned perfume house known for its unique fragrances. The current generation of creative directors includes Olivier Creed and his son, Erwin Creed, who continue to craft perfumes that capture the unique style and personality of their clientele.
Overall, Creed's long-standing presence in the fragrance industry, whether dating back to the 1700s or more recently, has contributed to its reputation as a historic and prestigious perfume house.
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Penhaligon's: founded in the 1860s
Penhaligon's is a British perfume house founded in the late 1860s by William Henry Penhaligon, a Cornish barber who moved to London and became the Court Barber and Perfumer to Queen Victoria.
William Penhaligon started his career as a barber within the London and Provincial Turkish Bath Company's London Hammam at 76 Jermyn Street, one of London's most fashionable streets at the time. As was customary for barbers in those days, Penhaligon created his own products to sell to his clients, many of whom were politicians. Penhaligon's first shop was within the Turkish baths, with a second entrance directly from the street. It was here that Penhaligon created his signature perfume, Hammam Bouquet.
In 1891, Penhaligon's & Jeavons moved to new premises at 33 St James Street and 66 Jermyn Street, with the two stores linked together at the rear. In the late 1920s, the business moved to Bury Street, where it operated until the mid-1950s. The original buildings were destroyed in The Blitz in 1941, but the store on Bury Street remained intact.
Penhaligon's was purchased by Geo. F. Trumper in the mid-1950s, and the brand slowly fell into obscurity until it was revived in 1977 with a new shop in Wellington Street, Covent Garden. Today, Penhaligon's is wholly owned by the Spanish fashion and fragrance company Puig International SA, and its perfumes are manufactured in Spain and other countries.
Despite the change in ownership and manufacturing locations, Penhaligon's has retained its distinctive packaging, with clear glass bottles and brightly coloured bow-ties adorning the stoppers, echoing William's original design. The brand has also continued to produce many of its original fragrances, including Hammam Bouquet, alongside new creations. In recent years, Penhaligon's has collaborated with renowned perfumers such as Bertrand Duchaufour, Olivia Giacobetti, Olivier Cresp, and Alberto Morrillas, further expanding its impressive stable of fragrances.
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Guerlain: founded in 1828
The oldest perfume house in the world is a title that is much contested. Creed, for example, has been called out for its "faux-history", with the brand claiming it has been around since the 1700s.
One of the oldest perfume houses is Guerlain, which was founded in 1828. The French perfume house has a rich history and has created many iconic fragrances. The brand has been a pioneer in the industry and has helped shape the world of perfumery as we know it today.
Another contender for the oldest perfume house is the House of Houbigant, which was established in 1775 when Jean-Francois Houbigant opened a perfume shop in Paris. Houbigant's fragrances were popular among the nobility, and he became the perfumer to the royal courts of Europe.
Maison Oriza, founded in 1720, is another historic perfume house with a rich royal history. It was the official purveyor of toiletries and fragrances to the French Royal Court, including Queen Marie-Antoinette.
The Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella in Florence, Italy, traces its roots back to 1221, making it one of the oldest perfume houses in existence.
These historic perfume houses have stood the test of time and continue to be revered for their craftsmanship and contribution to the world of fragrance.
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Maison Oriza: founded in 1720
Maison Oriza, also known as Oriza L. Legrand, is one of the oldest perfume houses in the world, founded in 1720. The perfume house was established by Fargeon Aîné, who was the official perfumer and distiller to the court of Louis XV of France. The name 'Oriza' is derived from the Latin name for rice, Oriza Sativa, which was a key ingredient in Fargeon's powders and body unguents.
Louis XV was Fargeon's first client, and the perfume house flourished under his patronage. The Fargeon family continued to be the official purveyors of perfume to the French court until the reign of Louis XVI. This period of royal patronage allowed the perfume house to thrive, and it continued to be a purveyor of perfumes to royalty, including Emperor Napoléon Bonaparte and his wife, Empress Joséphine, as well as Emperor Napoleon III.
In 1811, Mr. Louis Legrand became the sole owner of Maison Oriza and established the Parfumerie Oriza in Paris. Under his ownership, the perfume house continued to prosper, and it became the official and patented supplier of perfumes to royal courts in Russia, Italy, and England. In 1860, Antonin Raynaud succeeded Mr. Legrand and set up the first steam-powered perfume factory in Levallois-Perret. Raynaud opened a prestigious boutique in Paris in 1890, which enjoyed immense popularity in France and abroad.
Maison Oriza participated in World Fairs and international exhibitions, showcasing its innovative fragrances and winning numerous awards. The perfume house created the world's first solid perfume in 1887, known as Essence Oriza Solidifiee, and its fragrances were presented in elegant Baccarat crystal bottles. Maison Oriza's legacy spans centuries, with its earliest fragrances created in the early 20th century, including Relique D'Amour (1900) and Déjà Le Printemps (1920). The perfume house has been revived in recent years, continuing its tradition of French perfumery.
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Santa Maria Novella: founded in 1612 or 1221
The oldest perfume house in the world is a title held by the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, which was founded in Florence, Italy, in 1612. However, the roots of the perfume house can be traced as far back as 1221.
The story of the Santa Maria Novella fragrances began when a group of Dominican friars arrived in Florence in 1221 and set up a small church, Santa Maria Inter Vineas, just outside the city walls. The friars began experimenting with herbs and flowers in the monastic garden, creating balms and remedies for the local community. In 1334, the friars moved into the city after healing a wealthy merchant, Dardano Acciaioli, with bearberry extract. As a token of gratitude, Acciaioli built and gifted them the San Niccolò-devoted chapel, which is now the brand's boutique and museum.
In 1542, the pharmacy officially opened to the public, and in 1612, it was formally recognised with the name "Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica" by the Grand Duke of Tuscany. The recognition by the Granduca di Toscana also came with the title of "Fonderia di Sua Altezza Reale" (Foundry of His Royal Highness). Many of the remedies and concoctions created during that time are still available today.
In 2023, Santa Maria Novella launched its first eau de parfum in 800 years, called L'Iris, a homage to the city of Florence as the iris has been its heraldic symbol since 1266. The perfume was a perfect blend of the brand's deep history and innovation, a philosophy that creative director, Perris, strongly believes in.
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Frequently asked questions
The oldest perfume house in the world is the Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, which can trace its roots back to Florence in 1221.
The oldest perfume house in France is the House of Houbigant, which was founded in 1775 by Jean-Francois Houbigant in Paris.
Maison Oriza was founded in 1720 and became the official purveyor of toiletries and fragrances to the French Royal Court. Creed is also a well-known perfume house, though there is debate about its founding year, with some claiming it began in the 1700s and others saying it is a historic clothing house that bought the name.
The Berdoues family founded its eponymous brand in 1902, and the expertise has been passed down through four generations of perfumers. In 1939, the second generation perfumer Henri Berdoues created the Violette de Toulouse perfume, which inspired the hugely successful Perfume Violette.
