Seamus Hammond
The world of fragrances is a rich and fascinating one, with a long history that dates back thousands of years. The oldest known perfumes were discovered on the Mediterranean island of Cyprus, reputed to be the birthplace of Aphrodite, the Greek goddess of love, lust, and beauty. These perfumes date back more than 4,000 years and were found in an ancient factory alongside perfume bottles, mixing jugs, and stills. While these ancient fragrances provide a glimpse into the past, they are not the only historic perfumes that have been uncovered. From solid perfumes used by the ancient Egyptians to the world's first commercially sold solid perfume, Essence Oriza Solidifiee, created in 1853, the history of perfumery is a diverse and intriguing one.
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What You'll Learn
- The world's first recorded chemist, Tapputi, was a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia in 1200 BCE
- The ancient Greeks used oils as the vehicle of perfumes
- The oldest perfumery was discovered on the island of Cyprus and is estimated to be 4,000 years old
- The Bible describes a sacred perfume consisting of liquid myrrh, cinnamon, cane, and cassia
- The first alcohol-based perfumes were created in the early 1500s
The world's first recorded chemist, Tapputi, was a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia in 1200 BCE
The history of perfume-making, or "perfumery", is a rich and fascinating one, dating back thousands of years. The world's first recorded chemist, Tapputi, was a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia in 1200 BCE. Tapputi, also known as Tapputi-Belatekallim, which translates to "female palace overseer", was a powerful figure in the Mesopotamian government and religion. She oversaw the Mesopotamian Royal Palace and held a position of importance at the Mesopotamian court.
Tapputi's existence and work are recorded on a cuneiform tablet from the second millennium BC, which describes her process of distilling the essences of flowers and other aromatic materials, such as tree resins, spices, and horseradish. She would filter these materials, add water, and return them to the still several times until she achieved the desired result. This ancient text also mentions Tapputi's work with tinctures, scent extraction, and cold enfleurage. Notably, Tapputi developed methods for scent extraction that laid the foundation for future perfume-making techniques.
Tapputi is also credited with writing the first treatise on perfume-making, preserved on a clay tablet. Unfortunately, this chemistry text has been lost, but it is believed to have contained detailed information on her perfume-making process, including the use of fire and water, brewing, and filtration techniques. The tablet also mentions that Tapputi worked with a female researcher named -ninu, indicating that she collaborated with others in her endeavours.
The discovery of Tapputi's work sheds light on the ancient art of perfumery and showcases the important role of women in the early development of chemistry and perfume-making. Her innovations in scent extraction and distillation techniques laid the groundwork for future advancements in the field, contributing to the rich history of perfume that continues to evolve today.
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The ancient Greeks used oils as the vehicle of perfumes
The ancient Greeks played a crucial role in the development of perfumery. They were the first to create liquid perfume, and they carefully documented their perfume-making process, allowing modern perfumers to recreate these ancient scents. Theophrastus, a Greek philosopher and botanist, wrote a book called 'Concerning Odours' or 'On Odours' that delves into the use of fragrance in ancient Greece. In it, he discusses how scents were mixed with wine, used as ointments for the body, and used to scent the home.
The ancient Greeks used various types of oils as the "vehicle" of perfumes. They chose odourless or minimally fragrant oils, such as Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil, to ensure that the natural fragrance of the other raw materials used in the perfume was not overpowered. The most common type of olive oil used in perfumery was derived from "raw" and "coarse" olives, as it is the least greasy and coarse. This type of olive oil was expected to be used quickly, as it would turn thick and "viscous" over time, which is not ideal for perfumery.
To create their perfumes, the Greeks would boil flower petals, herbs, and spices, and then soak or "infuse" the mixture into a "carrier" oil, such as fresh-pressed olive oil. They used local flowers and herbs, such as marjoram, parsley, irises, violets, and lilies, and imported spices like pepper, cinnamon, cassia, and ginger from neighbouring Eastern countries. They also incorporated animal-based scent ingredients, such as musk and ambergris, adding a new level of sensuality and staying power to their fragrances.
The ancient Greeks believed that perfume was a gift from the gods, and many perfumes were named after Greek goddesses. Perfume was used in almost all of their traditional rituals and ceremonies, from birth to marriage to death. They also believed in the therapeutic benefits of fragrance, embracing aromatherapy and making it a practical and scientific endeavour rather than a mystical one. Both men and women became obsessed with 'the cult of the body', using perfume to enhance their personal hygiene and attractiveness.
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The oldest perfumery was discovered on the island of Cyprus and is estimated to be 4,000 years old
The art of making perfumes or perfumery has a rich and fascinating history. The oldest perfumery was discovered on the island of Cyprus and is estimated to be 4,000 years old. This discovery was made by an Italian archaeological team during excavations in 2004-2005. The site of the ancient factory covered an area of over 0.4 hectares (0.99 acres), indicating that perfume manufacturing was already being done on an industrial scale during the Bronze Age.
The world's first recorded chemist is a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker from Babylonian Mesopotamia, whose existence was etched on a 1200 BCE Cuneiform tablet. Tapputi held a powerful position in the Mesopotamian government and religion as the overseer of the Mesopotamian Royal Palace. She developed methods for scent extraction that laid the foundation for future perfume-making.
Ancient civilisations like the Greeks, Romans, Persians, and Arabs also played a significant role in the history of perfumes. The ancient Greeks, for instance, used various types of oils as the base for their perfumes, specifically choosing odourless oils to ensure that the natural fragrances of the other raw materials were not overwhelmed. The Romans, on the other hand, refined the art of perfumery, as did the Persians, who had access to a wide array of spices, resins, herbs, and precious woods due to their trading activities.
One of the oldest perfumes still available today is the Acqua della Regina, also known as the Acqua di S.M. Novella. It was first created in 1533 by Dominican friars as a wedding gift for Catherine de' Medici, who was to be married to King Henry II of France. It was one of the earliest alcohol-based perfumes, featuring notes of lavender, rosemary, sweet oriental herbs, and fresh citrus.
Another notable old fragrance is the 4711 Cologne, which has been around since 1792 or 1794, with reports claiming that it still uses its original formula.
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The Bible describes a sacred perfume consisting of liquid myrrh, cinnamon, cane, and cassia
The history of perfume is a rich and fascinating one. The word 'perfume' is derived from the Latin 'per fumus', meaning 'through smoke'. The art of perfumery has been practised for millennia, with the world's oldest known perfumery discovered on the island of Cyprus. This 4,000-year-old factory, dating back to the Bronze Age, suggests that perfume manufacturing was already being done on an industrial scale.
The Bible, in Exodus 30:22-33, describes a sacred perfume consisting of liquid myrrh, cinnamon, cane, and cassia. According to the text, God instructed Moses to collect these spices, specifically "five hundred shekels of liquid myrrh, half as much—two hundred and fifty—of sweet-scented cinnamon, and two hundred and fifty of cassia". This blend was to be used to create a sacred anointing oil, reserved for priests and holy objects. The Bible also mentions other fragrant spices like frankincense, onycha, and galbanum, which were to be used in the creation of incense.
The use of spices, florals, and resins was common in ancient Greek perfumery, with rose being a particularly prevalent ingredient due to its light and non-imposing fragrance. The ancient Greeks used various types of oils as the base for their perfumes, including Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil and olive oil derived from "raw" and "coarse" olives. Unlike modern perfumes, which typically use diluted ethanol as a base, these ancient oils were chosen for their lack of odour, ensuring they didn't overpower the natural fragrances of other ingredients.
The development of Middle Eastern perfumery was significantly influenced by Iranians after the Islamic era. They perfected fragrance extraction through steam distillation and introduced new raw materials. Islamic cultures, such as the Persians, had access to a wide array of spices, resins, herbs, and precious woods due to their trading activities. Rose and jasmine were native to the region, and many other flowers and herbs were successfully cultivated, contributing to the rich history of perfume ingredients.
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The first alcohol-based perfumes were created in the early 1500s
The history of perfume, or "per fumus" (“through smoke” in Latin), is a rich and fascinating one. The world's first recorded chemist, a woman named Tapputi, was a perfume maker in Babylonian Mesopotamia in 1200 BCE. Tapputi developed methods for scent extraction that laid the foundation for future perfume-making.
Excavations in 2004-2005 on the island of Cyprus revealed evidence of an enormous perfume factory from 4,000 years ago during the Bronze Age. This discovery indicated that perfume manufacturing was already being done on an industrial scale.
Ancient civilisations such as the Greeks, Romans, Persians, and Arabs all produced perfumes. The ancient Greeks used various types of oils as the "vehicle" of perfumes, including Egyptian or Syrian balanos oil and olive oil. They also used perfumes in solid, powder, and "unguent" forms. Common ingredients included spices, florals, and resins, as well as plant roots.
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Frequently asked questions
The world's oldest perfume factory was discovered on the island of Cyprus. The factory is thought to have been operational 4,000 years ago during the Bronze Age.
The oldest perfume that has been in constant production since at least the 1700s is Floris London, dating back to 1730. The 4711 Eau de Cologne, first launched in Cologne, Germany, in 1792, is also one of the oldest colognes still available.
There are several fragrances that are no longer being produced but are still cherished by collectors. Some of the oldest fragrances include bottles from the 1920s, such as Coty L'Origan parfum, and fragrances from the 1930s.
