Cologne's Oldest Fragrance: A Historical Scent

Cologne, Germany, is famous for Eau de Cologne, which has been produced in the city since 1709. The original Eau de Cologne is a citrus-based perfume made by Giovanni Maria Farina, an Italian expatriate living in the German city. Farina opened a luxury goods shop where the fragrance was sold on July 13, 1709, and named it after the city he lived in. The perfume was only accessible to the extremely wealthy, with a single vial costing a week's wages for a master craftsman. Eau de Cologne has since become a generic term for perfumes with a low concentration of citrus-based essential oils.

The origins of Eau de Cologne

At the time, the company mainly sold fashion items, but this changed when Giovanni's younger brother, Johann Maria Farina, joined the company in 1714. Johann Maria Farina (1685-1766) developed a fragrance water called "Aqua mirabilis" or "miracle water". This fresh fragrance was a significant departure from the heavy and extremely expensive perfumes commonly used by the nobility of the time, as it was not based on musk essences but on notes of bergamot, lemon, and orange.

In a letter to his brother Jean Baptiste in 1708, Farina described his creation as follows: "I have found a fragrance that reminds me of an Italian spring morning, of mountain daffodils and orange blossoms after the rain." He named his fragrance "Eau de Cologne" in honour of his new hometown.

The Eau de Cologne created by Farina was used solely as a perfume and was delivered to nearly all royal houses in Europe. His ability to produce a consistently homogeneous fragrance consisting of dozens of monoessences was considered a sensation at the time. A single vial of this "aqua mirabilis" (Latin for miracle water) cost half the annual salary of a civil servant, making it accessible only to the extremely wealthy.

Over time, the popularity of Eau de Cologne grew, first in France and then throughout Europe, dominating the perfumery market until at least the end of the 19th century. The Farina family business became the most famous perfume manufacturer in the world, counting among its customers famous personalities such as Mozart, Schiller, Napoleon, Heine, Beethoven, Oscar Wilde, Thomas Mann, and Bill Clinton.

The success of Eau de Cologne also attracted imitators, the most notable of whom was Wilhelm Mülhens, who began selling his own Eau de Cologne in Cologne's Glockengasse in 1799 under the name "Franz Maria Farina, Glockengasse 4711, Cologne." This imitation eventually became better known than the original, and today, 4711 is often mistakenly believed to be the original Eau de Cologne.

Despite the competition, the original Eau de Cologne has endured for over 300 years, surviving wars and imitations, and remains a well-known fragrance in a market saturated with modern scents. The Farina family has continued the business, and the perfume is still produced today by the eighth generation of descendants, following the original recipe.

The creator, Giovanni Maria Farina

Giovanni Maria Farina, born on 8 December 1685 in Santa Maria Maggiore, Italy, was an Italian-born perfumer who created the

The recipe and ingredients

The oldest fragrance in the world is said to be made in Cologne, Germany. The fragrance, known as 4711 Eau de Cologne, has been produced since 1792 and is still popular today. The recipe and ingredients that go into this iconic fragrance are a closely guarded secret, but here is some insight into the components and processes that create 4711's signature scent.

The original recipe for 4711 Eau de Cologne is a well-kept secret, passed down through the generations of the Mülhens family, who founded the fragrance house. The formula is said to contain a blend of essential oils and natural ingredients, carefully sourced from around the world, creating a unique and captivating scent.

At the heart of the fragrance are citrus notes, a characteristic common to many colognes. The fresh, zesty scent of lemon and orange is combined with the more delicate fragrance of bergamot, creating a vibrant and invigorating top note. The citrus ingredients are carefully selected for their quality and fragrance, with the fruits' oils being cold-pressed to extract their essence.

To complement the citrus, herbal notes are added, including rosemary and neroli, which bring a sophisticated, green aroma. The exact blend of herbs is a closely guarded secret, but the combination adds depth and a unique character to the fragrance. Floral notes are also key to the scent, with rose and lavender adding a delicate, fresh heart. Again, the specific flowers used are a secret, but the fragrance house is renowned for its use of the highest quality, natural floral extracts.

The ingredients are combined using traditional methods, with the fragrance being carefully crafted and blended by master perfumers. The final scent is a well-balanced, elegant fragrance with a fresh, citrusy burst and a subtle, lingering warmth. The cologne is then left to mature for several months, allowing the ingredients to harmonise and the scent to develop its full character.

Although the exact recipe remains a mystery, the ingredients and techniques used give an insight into the creation of this iconic fragrance. The careful selection of natural ingredients and the traditional methods employed ensure that 4711 Eau de Cologne remains a timeless classic, beloved by many.

The popularity of Eau de Cologne

The first Eau de Cologne was created in 1709 by Giovanni Maria Farina, an Italian perfume maker from Santa Maria Maggiore, Valle Vigezzo. Farina's formula has been produced in Cologne since 1709 and remains a secret. His shop, located at Obenmarspforten, opened in 1709 and is the world's oldest fragrance factory. The fragrance was originally used for hygiene and cleansing and was marketed as a "miracle water". It was believed to have medicinal properties and was even thought to ward off the bubonic plague. The original Eau de Cologne was a spirit-citrus perfume with a fresh, light scent that differed from the heavy, extremely expensive perfumes that were common among the nobility of the time. It was not based on musk essences but on notes of bergamot, lemon, and orange. Farina described his creation as "like an Italian spring morning after the rain".

The success of Eau de Cologne prompted countless other businessmen to sell their own fragrances under the same name. One of the most famous imitations is the Original Eau de Cologne 4711, named after its location at Glockengasse No. 4711. It was developed in the 18th century by Wilhelm Mülhens and has been produced in Cologne since at least 1799. On December 12, 2006, the perfumes and cosmetics company Mäurer & Wirtz took over 4711 and expanded it into a whole brand.

In modern times, "cologne" has become a generic term for perfumes marketed toward men, particularly in American English. It also refers to a less concentrated and more affordable version of a popular perfume. The term "eau de cologne" is now used to describe scented formulations with a concentration of 2-5% of essential oils, extracts, alcohol, and water.

Imitations and competitors

The original Eau de Cologne, created by Giovanni Maria Farina in 1709, has faced numerous imitations and competitors over the centuries. The perfume's popularity and success attracted the attention of many, leading to the emergence of competing products and imitators. One of the most notable imitations was created by Wilhelm Mülhens and his family in the 18th century. They produced a citrus-based scent similar to the original Eau de Cologne and named it after the house number of their factory on Glockengasse in downtown Cologne: 4711.

The Mülhens family's imitation, 4711, became a respected and popular competitor to the original Eau de Cologne. In fact, it gained such a strong reputation that it eventually became better known than the original fragrance. This success led to legal disputes between the Farina and Mülhens families, as the former sought to protect their trademark and intellectual property. The disputes continued for decades, with the Mülhens family employing various tactics to associate their product with the Farina name. Eventually, in 1873, the Mülhens family was forbidden from using "Farina" in their company name.

Another challenge faced by the creators of Eau de Cologne was the emergence of free trade in Cologne in 1797. This development prompted countless businessmen to sell their fragrances under the name of Eau de Cologne, taking advantage of the lack of functioning industrial property rights at the time. This resulted in numerous competing products with similar manufacturer names, further diluting the market and making it difficult for consumers to distinguish between the original Eau de Cologne and its imitations.

Despite these challenges, the original Eau de Cologne has persevered and maintained its reputation as one of the oldest and most prestigious perfumes in the world. The Farina family has continued to produce the fragrance according to the original recipe, passing it down through generations and preserving its unique scent. Today, the Farina house in Cologne's Old Town has a museum dedicated to the art of perfume-making and the history of Eau de Cologne, celebrating its enduring legacy.

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