Antonio Mcgowan
Absolue or absolu in the context of perfume refers to a highly concentrated perfume ingredient obtained by the alcohol extraction of the concrete. The concrete is obtained by the solvent extract of plant material. Absolues have more concentrated notes and are often more intense versions of fragrances. Absolues are produced through solvent extraction or traditionally through enfleurage. Absolues are used in popular fragrances such as Boss Bottled Absolu by Hugo Boss, Scandal Absolu by Jean Paul Gaultier, and J'Adore L'Absolu by Dior.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition | A highly concentrated perfume ingredient obtained by the alcohol extraction of the concrete. |
| Concrete | Obtained by the solvent extract of plant material. |
| Solvent Extraction | Plant material is extracted with a hydrocarbon solvent, such as hexane, to yield concrete. |
| Ethanol Extraction | The concrete is then extracted with ethanol. |
| Absolute | When the ethanol evaporates, an oil—the absolute—is left behind. |
| Traditional Method | Enfleurage, where the resulting pomade was extracted with ethanol to yield the absolute. |
| Examples | Tresor L'Absolu (Lancome) and J'Adore L'Absolu (Dior) |
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What You'll Learn
Absolues are highly concentrated perfume ingredients
Absolutes are the most concentrated form of fragrance, making them very expensive. They are the alcohol-soluble components of concretes and resinoids and contain a high density of colorants, waxes, and other constituents. The traditional method of extracting absolutes has been modified to use only bio-sourced and biodegradable solvents, preserving the top notes and the original smell of the living plant.
Some examples of absolutes include rose oil, jasmine absolute, tuberose absolute, tobacco absolute, orris root oil, ambrette seeds oil, angelica root oil, and orange flower oil. These valuable and expensive ingredients are used in perfumery and aromatherapy to create unique and intense olfactory experiences.
Absolutes are often used as the top-billed super notes in fragrance compositions, providing a concentrated and long-lasting scent experience. They are perfect for those who enjoy stronger scents and are confident in their choice of fragrance. The use of the term "absolute" in perfumery has evolved, with some fragrance makers using it as a concept similar to "intense" or "extreme" to describe their products.
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They are obtained by alcohol extraction of plant-based concrete
Absolutes are highly concentrated, aromatic oily mixtures used in perfumery. They are similar to essential oils but more soluble and with longer-lasting odours. They are completely soluble in ethanol and can be used as perfume ingredients.
Absolutes are obtained by alcohol extraction of plant-based concrete. Concretes are produced from natural plant materials, mainly flowers. The most popular natural flowers used are rose and lavender. A semi-solid residue of essential oils, waxes, resins, and other oil-soluble plant chemicals remains. The solvent used for extraction must be chosen carefully regarding its polarity and boiling point. If the boiling point is too high, compounds that are readily deactivated by heat might be destroyed, leading to a loss of certain fragrance ingredients during evaporation.
The process of producing absolutes includes extracting the concrete with ethanol, using cold filtration to remove residue, and then distilling off the ethanol. The resulting residue after evaporation consists mostly of heavier non-volatile substances, which give concrete its "waxy" properties. Putting the plant materials under high pressure before treating them with solvents increases the yield of the concrete. This is because high pressure causes the cells to burst, allowing the glucoside and diastase in the plants to react more freely.
There are several modern green extraction methods such as supercritical fluid, ultrasound, accelerated solvent, microwave, and enzyme-assisted extraction methods. However, the use of concrete in perfumery has some issues. The extracts can become rancid after several months, especially if exposed to strong light. There are also concerns about residual pesticides in concretes due to the use of monoculture techniques in cultivation.
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Absolues are similar to essential oils
Absolutes are similar to essential oils in that they are both concentrated, highly aromatic, oily mixtures extracted from plants. They are used in perfumery and aromatherapy. However, there are some key differences between the two.
Absolutes are the most concentrated form of fragrance, making them very expensive. They are produced through solvent extraction, which uses a gentle solvent to draw out the aromatic compounds from delicate plant materials, such as flower petals, that cannot withstand high heat. This traditional method of extraction has been modified to use only bio-sourced and biodegradable solvents, preserving the top notes and the original smell of the living plant. With this new process, absolutes create 100% natural ingredients with unique olfactive profiles. Absolutes contain a high density of colourants, waxes, and other constituents, and they are thicker and more aromatic than essential oils.
Essential oils, on the other hand, are typically obtained via steam distillation or cold pressing. The most common method for producing essential oils involves steam distillation, where the stills can vary in shape, size, and material. Another method is mechanical extraction, which is how cold-pressed oils are produced. Cold pressing involves pricking citrus rinds, causing the essential oil to be released, along with some fruit juice. The oil and juice are then separated in a centrifuge. A less commonly used method is enfleurage, which employs cold fats to extract oils from delicate flowers.
Both absolutes and essential oils have their unique chemical properties, therapeutic benefits, and aromatic profiles. Absolutes, with their high concentration and aromatic qualities, are perfect for natural perfumes. Examples of absolutes in demand include rose, jasmine, tuberose, lavender, and geranium.
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They are used in perfumery and aromatherapy
Absolutes are used in perfumery and aromatherapy. They are similar to essential oils but differ in the method of production. Absolutes are produced through solvent extraction or, more traditionally, through enfleurage. First, plant material is extracted with a hydrocarbon solvent, such as hexane, to yield concrete. The concrete is then extracted with ethanol. The ethanol extract is cooled (e.g., to −15 °C) to solidify waxes, and cold filtered to yield a liquid extract. When the ethanol evaporates, an oil—the absolute—is left behind.
Absolutes are highly concentrated perfume ingredients. They are used in small amounts in perfumes and other fragrances but can have a powerful impact on the overall scent. Absolutes are typically made using a solvent extraction process that involves soaking the plant material in a solvent, such as hexane or ethanol, to extract the fragrant compounds. This process is different from steam distillation, which is another common method used to extract fragrant compounds from plants.
Steam distillation involves passing steam through the plant material, causing the fragrant compounds to evaporate and then condense into a liquid form. While steam distillation is often used to create essential oils, it does not produce the same level of concentration as solvent extraction, which is why absolutes are so highly valued in perfumery. Absolutes are prized for their rich and complex fragrances, which are often truer to the scent of the original plant material than other types of perfume extracts.
Some commonly used absolutes include rose, jasmine, lavender, vanilla, tuberose, tobacco, and orange flower. Absolutes are usually the top-billed super notes in fragrance compositions, but some fragrance makers use the term as a concept, in a similar fashion to "intense" or "extreme". For example, Tresor L'Absolu (Lancome) and J'Adore L'Absolu (Dior) are more potent and have stronger notes than their regular counterparts.
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Absolues are used as a concept to indicate intense or extreme fragrances
Absolues are highly concentrated fragrances, making them more intense and longer-lasting than traditional perfumes. They are created through solvent extraction or the traditional method of enfleurage, where plant materials are extracted with hydrocarbon solvents like hexane to produce a waxy concrete. This concrete is then extracted with ethanol, and when the ethanol evaporates, the absolute oil remains.
The term 'absolu' is used by some fragrance makers as a concept to indicate intense or extreme fragrances. Absolues are the top-billed super notes in fragrance compositions, and their intense scents are derived from natural sources such as plants and flowers. The traditional method of extraction has been modified to use only bio-sourced and biodegradable solvents, preserving the top notes and the original smell of the living plant. This results in 100% natural ingredients with unique olfactory profiles.
Absolues are in high demand due to their intense and exotic fragrances. Examples of popular absolues include rose, jasmine, tuberose, tobacco, and orange blossom. These fragrances are often used in small quantities as a key ingredient in perfumes and flavour compositions because of their strength and longevity.
The concentration of absolues makes them highly valued and expensive. They are sought after by those who appreciate strong and long-lasting fragrances. The intensity of absolues allows them to stand out in a composition, making them a popular choice for creating unique and memorable scents.
While absolues are known for their intense fragrances, it is important to note that they are not simply stronger versions of existing perfumes. Instead, they offer a more concentrated and pure form of fragrance, often with a unique twist or interpretation on the original scent. This distinction sets absolues apart as a distinct category of fragrances.
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Frequently asked questions
Absolue or absolu in perfume means that the fragrance contains highly concentrated perfume ingredients obtained by the alcohol extraction of the concrete. The concrete is obtained by the solvent extract of plant material.
Absolues are more concentrated or feature more intense notes than their "normal" counterparts. They are usually the top-billed super notes in fragrance compositions.
First, plant material is extracted with a hydrocarbon solvent to yield concrete. The concrete is then extracted with ethanol. The ethanol extract is cooled to solidify waxes, and cold-filtered to yield a liquid extract. When the ethanol evaporates, an oil—the absolute—is left behind.
Examples of perfumes that use absolu include Tresor L'Absolu (Lancome) and J'Adore L'Absolu (Dior).
