The Art Of Men's Cologne: A Beginner's Guide

Cologne is a type of perfume originating from Cologne, Germany, and was initially intended to be a unisex fragrance. It is a classification of fragrance based on the percentage or concentration of fragrance oils used in producing it. Other forms of fragrance include perfume, Eau de Parfum, Eau Fraiche, and Eau de Toilette. In contemporary American English usage, the term cologne has become a generic term for perfumes marketed toward men. Cologne is a very lightly perfumed fragrance and typically contains a concentration of fragrance oils between 2% and 5%.

History of men's cologne

The history of men's cologne dates back to ancient civilisations, with its roots in the Middle East, Europe, and the Americas.

The ancient Egyptians are often credited with the origins of perfume, using fragrances for ceremonies and burials, as well as daily wear among the elite. The ancient Persians, Indians, and Romans also incorporated perfume into their daily lives, with Roman men using scented oils as part of their relaxation rituals.

In the Middle Ages, European soldiers brought the art of perfumery back with them from the Crusades. Both men and women of good standing wore pomanders—small ornamental containers that could be filled with scented materials. Europeans at this time believed that bad air caused sickness, so pomanders were thought to have health benefits.

In the late 1400s, the first alcohol-based perfume was created for Queen Elizabeth of Hungary. Known as Hungary Water, it was one of the most popular scents throughout the 18th century.

In 1709, Giovanni Maria Farina created the first eau de cologne in Cologne, Germany. Lighter and fresher than previous perfumes, it quickly gained popularity among wealthy and royal men.

The 20th century saw the emergence of men's fragrances as a distinctive category, with the first fragrance marketed specifically for men, "Pour Un Homme", released in 1934. Since then, men's colognes have become a staple of the grooming industry, with new fragrances released at a rapid pace to meet consumer demand.

How to apply men's cologne

Applying cologne is more nuanced than simply spraying and going. Here are some tips to help you apply cologne correctly and get the most out of your signature scent.

Step 1: Start with a Clean Slate

Before applying cologne, ensure you've showered and are wearing clean clothes. The fragrance will mix with your body odour, creating a unique, personalised scent. However, if you haven't showered, the combination of the two may be unpleasant and off-putting to those around you.

Step 2: Don't Overdo It

Less is more when it comes to cologne. Start with one or two sprays and build up as desired. Remember, some people are sensitive to strong smells, so you don't want to make them uncomfortable.

Step 3: Apply to Your Pulse Points

Pulse points are areas of the body that produce more heat than others. These include the neck, behind the ears, inside the wrists, and inside the elbows. These areas help distribute the fragrance, giving you a more lasting scent. Apply cologne to two or three of these points, not all of them.

Step 4: Wait for the Cologne to Dry

After applying, allow the cologne to settle into your skin. Don't rub your wrists together or touch the area where you've applied the cologne. Instead, let it dry naturally. This way, you'll get the full benefits of the fragrance, and it will last longer.

Step 5: Reapply as Necessary

Cologne wears off throughout the day, so you may need to reapply. However, don't do it too frequently. One application in the morning should last all day, but if needed, reapply no more than once daily. Remember, your nose gets accustomed to smells, so while you might not smell the cologne anymore, others may still be able to.

Bonus Tips:

• Cologne is best applied to the skin, not clothing. There is more warmth and circulation on the skin, which helps the fragrance evaporate and activate.
• The best time to apply cologne is after a shower when your pores are open, allowing the cologne to soak into the skin and last longer.
• Avoid applying cologne over sweaty, dirty skin.
• When storing cologne, keep it in a cool, dry place, away from direct sunlight and heat.
• The stronger the concentration of the fragrance, the fewer sprays you need.
• Be mindful of others and avoid wearing cologne to job interviews, funerals, the gym, and long flights.

Different types of men's cologne

Cologne is a perfume originating from Cologne, Germany. It was originally mixed by Giovanni Maria Farina in 1709 and has since become a generic term for scented formulations with a typical concentration of 2–5% essential oils, or a blend of extracts, alcohol, and water.

In contemporary American usage, the term "cologne" has become a generic term for perfumes marketed toward men. However, cologne is not the only type of fragrance for men. Here are some of the different types of men's cologne:

Eau de Cologne

Colognes are to the olfactory world what white t-shirts are to your wardrobe—essential and versatile. With aromatic compound concentrations ranging between 2% and 4%, cologne offers a subtle scent perfect for everyday wear or when the weather is warm.

Eau de Toilette

Eau de Toilette has a concentration between 5% and 15%. This is your go-to office scent or the cologne you’d wear to a dinner date—present but not overwhelming, akin to a crisp button-down shirt that works just as well at a board meeting or a casual outing.

Eau de Parfum

The Eau de Parfum commands attention without screaming for it. A concentration ranging from 15% to 20% ensures this fragrance lingers, like the memory of a meaningful conversation. It’s the three-piece suit of scents—formal yet dynamic, suitable for evenings or significant events.

Parfum

Parfum is the olfactory equivalent of a bespoke suit. With aromatic concentration levels between 20% and 30%, and sometimes even reaching up to 40%, it’s a fragrance that not only lasts but evolves throughout the day, revealing different facets of its complexity, much like how acceptable leather ages gracefully over time.

Eau Fraîche

Think of Eau Fraîche as the linen suit of the fragrance world. With only 1% to 3% aromatic compounds, this fragrance barely whispers, ideal for those sultry summer days when less is more.

Perfume Oils

Perfume oils are the velvet tuxedos of the fragrance realm—opulent and unapologetically potent. They usually consist of a 20% to 30% concentration but are without the alcohol base, making them the purest form of fragrance available.

Pour Homme

Pour Homme often designates fragrances tailored for men, though the concentration can vary. Consider it the finishing touch, the pocket square, or the cufflinks that complete an outfit, capable of being understated or making a statement, depending on its formulation. They can range from a light eau de toilette to a complex parfum, each offering its own unique character and intensity.

Seasonal Colognes

Just like you curate your wardrobe for seasonal shifts, you can also adapt your cologne repertoire. As the atmosphere morphs from the icy chill of winter to the vivacity of spring, so too should your scent evolve.

Spring colognes are light, floral, and optimistic, capturing the essence of awakening. Summer colognes bottle the essence of the season’s lively allure with citrus notes. Fall scents quietly announce the change of season with spicy notes, while winter colognes envelop you in a cashmere blanket of vanilla and musk.

How to choose the right men's cologne

Cologne is a complex mixture of raw materials, including extracts from natural sources and synthetic materials. It's an invisible part of your personal style and can have a powerful effect on how people see and remember you.

Sample Different Colognes

Try out different colognes and see how they work with your body's natural chemistry. Department stores are great for this, but be sure to spray the cologne directly on your skin rather than on paper testers, as cologne smells different on everyone. Spray one scent on each wrist and inner elbow, and walk around the store, smelling the fragrances at various intervals. Take notes on your phone about which ones you like and why.

Understand the Different Types of Colognes

Colognes come in different concentrations, from the most diluted (eau fraiche) to the most concentrated (parfum). The higher the concentration of oils, the stronger the fragrance and the longer it will last on your skin. Other types include eau de cologne, eau de toilette, and eau de parfum.

Know the Fragrance Families and Their Seasonality

Different colognes work better for different seasons. For example, warming tobacco, leather, or spice notes are great for winter, while green and aquatic notes are perfect for summer. Understanding the fragrance wheel can help you choose the right cologne for the right time of year.

Consider Your Motives

Think about what you want your cologne to say about you. Are you going for a classic, confident aroma, or something more unique and bold? Do you want a scent that will make you feel comforted and relaxed, or one that will make you stand out from the crowd?

Weigh Mass Appeal Against Niche

Designer fragrances are typically more affordable and mass-produced, while niche fragrances are more expensive and unique. Designer colognes are a safer choice and will likely be well-liked by most people, but niche colognes allow you to express your individuality.

Ask for Opinions

Don't be afraid to ask your friends or a salesperson for their opinion on a particular cologne. However, at the end of the day, you have to love the fragrance you're wearing. If you're not confident about buying fragrances, it's better to hold off and keep searching until you find "the one."

When not to wear men's cologne

While cologne can be a great way to express your personal style and preferences, there are certain times when it's best to skip it or opt for a more subtle fragrance. Here are some scenarios where you should avoid wearing men's cologne:

Job Interviews

The majority of HR professionals and job search experts advise against wearing cologne to a job interview. You don't know how the interviewer will react to your fragrance, and it could create a negative impression or even trigger a physical reaction like a headache or coughing fit. It's best to keep your scent subdued in these situations.

Long Flights

In tight quarters like an airplane, your cologne can become overwhelming for those around you, especially during a long flight. Someone sitting next to you might not appreciate the strong scent, and it could make for an uncomfortable journey for both of you.

First Dates

If you're meeting someone for the first time on a date, it's risky to wear cologne. You don't know how they will react to your fragrance, and an adverse reaction can put a damper on the evening. It's best to keep things simple and subtle when it comes to scent on a first date.

The Gym

The gym is not the place for strong fragrances. No one wants to smell your cologne while they're working out, and it can be off-putting for those around you. By the time you get to the gym, the scent will likely have faded anyway, so it's best to skip it altogether.

Funerals

When attending a funeral, it's important to keep your clothing and scent subdued out of respect for the occasion. A strong cologne can be too attention-grabbing and may be considered inappropriate.

Open-Plan Offices

While it's great to express your personal style, strong fragrances can become overwhelming in an open-plan office. Your colleagues might not appreciate being exposed to your scent for extended periods, and it could lead to complaints or uncomfortable situations. Opt for a more subtle fragrance or tone it down during office hours.

When Trying to Mask Another Smell

Don't use cologne to cover up body odour or other unpleasant scents. Mixing different scents can create an unpleasant aroma, and it's better to address the root of the problem rather than trying to mask it.

Recording Studios or Confined Spaces

In confined spaces like recording studios, strong scents can be overpowering and even suffocating. It's best to avoid wearing cologne in these environments to avoid causing discomfort to others.

Meeting Your Partner's Parents

When meeting your significant other's parents for the first time, it's best to keep things low-key and avoid any potential scent-related conflicts. You don't want to risk offending your partner's family with a strong cologne.

Fine Dining

If you're dining at a fine restaurant, especially with a foodie, it's best to avoid wearing cologne. Strong scents can interfere with the dining experience and may be considered rude or inappropriate.

In general, it's important to be mindful of the people around you and choose your cologne wisely. While it's great to express your personal style, it should not come at the expense of others' comfort.

Frequently asked questions