Seamus Hammond
Fixatives are essential ingredients in perfumery, helping to prolong the aroma of the fragrance. They are substances used to equalize the vapour pressures of the raw materials in perfume oil, thereby increasing the odour's tenacity. The best fixative depends on the desired scent, colour, and texture. Natural fixatives include benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, olibanum, storax, and tolu balsam. Synthetic fixatives include substances of low volatility, such as dipropylene glycol, and odourless solvents with very low vapour pressures. Some materials with faint or no odour are supposed to act as fixatives, such as Isopropyl Myristate, though some perfumers believe this effect is overrated.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Purpose | To equalize the vapour pressures of raw materials in a perfume oil, thus increasing the perfume's odour tenacity and longevity |
| Types | Natural (resinoids, terpenoids, polycyclic ketones), synthetic (substances of low volatility, odorless solvents with very low vapour pressure) and a combination of both |
| Examples | Benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, olibanum, storax, tolu balsam, musk, ambroxan, sandalwood, civet, castoreum, orris root powder, sclareolide, Fixative BMV |
| Considerations | Must be meticulously selected to manipulate aroma and longevity; a good concentration of ingredients is needed for effectiveness |
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What You'll Learn
Natural vs synthetic fixatives
Natural fixatives are additives derived from plants that produce a thick, sticky substance known as resin. Examples include benzoin, frankincense, myrrh, olibanum, labdanum, storax, tolu balsam, castoreum, musk, and civet. These fixatives can also fall under the category of tinctures, gums, powders, and sometimes herbs. Natural essential oils like patchouli and vetiver are also used as natural fixatives.
Synthetic fixatives, on the other hand, are artificially created substances with low volatility and very low vapour pressure. They are often odorless or have very mild scents. Examples include Fixative BMV, Ambroxan, Iso E Super, Galaxolide, Hedione, Benzyl Salicylate, Fixolide, Triethyl Citrate, Dipropylene Glycol, and Cyclopentadecanolide. These synthetic fixatives are more commonly used today due to their cost-effectiveness, consistency, and ethical considerations, as some natural fixatives are derived from animals, leading to near extinction.
Natural fixatives offer unique aromas and can help stabilize and enhance other fragrance notes. They have been used for centuries and are prized for their rich, warm aromas and ability to blend seamlessly into complex fragrance compositions. For example, benzoin has a sweet, vanilla-like aroma and is often used in gourmand and oriental perfumes. Copaiba balsam, another natural fixative, adds a warm, woody scent to oriental and woody fragrances.
Synthetic fixatives, while lacking the strong aromas of their natural counterparts, provide innovative solutions to creating long-lasting scents. For instance, Hedione has a fresh, jasmine-like scent that lifts and prolongs delicate floral notes. Galaxolide, a synthetic musk, adds a clean, sweet scent to perfumes and enhances their staying power. Triethyl Citrate is colourless and odourless, making it ideal for light and fresh fragrances that need extra longevity.
Both natural and synthetic fixatives play a crucial role in enhancing the longevity and stability of fragrances, ensuring that the scent lingers on the skin or clothing for extended periods. Perfumers must carefully select the appropriate type of fixative to achieve the desired fragrance outcome, as fixatives can significantly alter a perfume's scent.
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Examples of natural fixatives
Natural fixatives are substances that hold and 'fix' a fragrance so that it will last longer on the skin. Natural fixatives are resinoids, which are additives used in many perfumes and cosmetic products that are secreted from plants that produce a thick, sticky substance known as resin.
- Benzoin, which is rich, sweet, and smooth, with a touch of cinnamon. It is often used in both feminine and masculine fragrances.
- Frankincense, which has a piney and spicy scent.
- Myrrh, a woody and warm fragrance.
- Olibanum, which is fresh, deep, and lemony.
- Labdanum, which is sugary, fruity, and dry.
- Storax, with its sugary and vanilla-nuanced scent.
- Tolu balsam, which is fresh, sweet, and glorious.
- Oakmoss Absolute, a rich and earthy scent that adds a sensual, woodsy tone to fragrances.
- Tonka Bean Absolute, which has a scent reminiscent of freshly mown hay and sweetgrass with vanilla overtones.
- Vanilla Absolute, a familiar and well-loved scent that is commonly featured in gourmand-type fragrances.
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Examples of synthetic fixatives
Synthetic fixatives are widely used in modern perfumery due to their consistency, cost-effectiveness, and ability to stabilize volatile fragrance components. Here are some examples of synthetic fixatives used in perfumery:
Ambroxan
Also known as Ambroxide, Ambroxan is derived from sclareol and provides a rich, ambergris-like scent. It is synthesized from naturally occurring compounds and has an ambery and cedar-like aroma. Ambroxan is a popular replacement for gray amber, as its odor profile is very similar, and it offers superb tenacity.
Sclareolide
This synthetic musk is often used in perfumes and colognes and is known for its sugary, musky, and floral character. It is a replacement for ambergris, and its use dates back to the 1960s.
Galaxolide
Galaxolide is a synthetic musk with a clean, sweet scent. It is commonly used as a fixative to add depth and enhance the longevity of perfumes.
Hedione
Hedione has a fresh, jasmine-like aroma and is a versatile fixative. It lifts and prolongs the more delicate floral notes in a fragrance.
Benzyl Salicylate
Known for its mild, floral scent, Benzyl Salicylate is used to stabilize and extend the life of fragrances, particularly those with floral components.
Fixative BMV
This modern synthetic fixative is almost odorless and can be used at concentrations of up to 10%. However, its insolubility in alcohol is a drawback.
These synthetic fixatives play a crucial role in enhancing the longevity and stability of fragrances, ensuring that the scent of perfumes lasts longer on the skin.
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How to blend fixatives into perfume
The use of fixatives in perfumes is a complex process that involves both art and science. Fixatives are substances that help to prolong the longevity of raw materials in a perfume oil, increasing the time for which the scent lasts. They do this by equalizing the vapour pressures and thus the volatilities of the ingredients.
There are a variety of fixatives to choose from, both natural and synthetic. Natural fixatives, also known as resinoids, are additives derived from plants that produce resin. Examples include benzoin, frankincense, myrrh, and labdanum. Natural fixatives like ambergris and civet were once commonly used, but due to environmental protection laws, they are rarely used today. Synthetic fixatives, on the other hand, are created in laboratories and include substances like dipropylene glycol (DPG) and cyclopentadecanolide. One powerful synthetic fixative is Fixative BMV, which can be used at a concentration of up to 10%, although it is not soluble in alcohol.
When blending fixatives into perfumes, there is no exact rule for when to add them. Some people suggest adding them after everything else is mixed, while others recommend mixing them with fragrance oil before adding alcohol. However, it is important to note that adding fixatives can alter the odour profile of the fragrance, so it is recommended to create a mix with and without fixatives to compare the differences.
To blend fixatives effectively, aim for high-quality ingredients and include a good amount of base notes or fragrant fixatives. For example, consider using amber, resins, or musk in the base, or heavier notes like civet or vanilla. Additionally, ensure that the overall concentration of ingredients is not too watered down, as this can reduce the longevity of the scent.
Some fixatives, like vanilla and sandalwood, blend more seamlessly into perfumes, which is why they are favoured by renowned perfumers. However, it is important to experiment and compose with different ingredients to create harmonious fragrances.
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The history of perfume fixatives
The use of perfume can be traced back to some of the earliest human civilizations, with the art of perfumery originating in Mesopotamia, Egypt, the Indus Valley civilization, and possibly Ancient China. Further refinements were made by the Romans and Muslims. One of the world's first recorded chemists, a woman named Tapputi, is mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BC in Mesopotamia, where she distilled flowers, oils, and calamus with other aromatics to create perfume.
The use of fixatives in perfume is essential to retain and stabilize the aromatic components, ensuring the scent lasts longer on the skin or clothing. Natural fixatives, such as sweet and earthy ambergris, and velvety civet, were once popular but are rarely used today due to environmental protection laws and the near extinction of the animals they are derived from. Instead, modern perfumers rely on synthetic fixatives, with one powerful example being Fixative BMV, which can be used at a concentration of up to 10%.
Natural fixatives, or resinoids, are derived from plants that produce resin, a thick and sticky substance. Examples include benzoin, frankincense, myrrh, olibanum, and labdanum. These fixatives have been used throughout history and continue to be important in the fragrance industry, offering a longer-lasting base for perfumes.
Another category of fixatives is terpenoids, such as ambroxide, which were originally obtained from animals but are now mostly chemically synthesized due to ethical and economic reasons. Synthetically produced fixatives, such as dipropylene glycol and cyclopentadecanolide, offer a more sustainable and consistent alternative to natural fixatives.
The choice of fixative is crucial in achieving the desired fragrance outcome, as different types of fixatives can significantly alter the scent of a perfume. This decision is left to perfumers, who carefully select the appropriate fixative to manipulate the aroma and longevity of their creations.
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Frequently asked questions
A fixative is a substance used to slow the dispersion of perfume into the air, increasing the time for which the scent of a perfume lasts.
Natural fixatives are additives used in many perfumes and cosmetic products that are secreted from plants that produce a thick, sticky substance known as resin. Some examples include benzoin, labdanum, myrrh, olibanum, storax, tolu balsam, and frankincense.
Synthetic fixatives include substances of low volatility such as diphenylmethane, dipropylene glycol (DPG), cyclopentadecanolide, and ambroxide.
You compose the entire fragrance, test it, and adjust for the next version. If you want it to last longer, use materials that have longer longevity. It is essential to meticulously select the correct type of fixative to use in a fragrance to manipulate its aroma and longevity.
