Lance Carson
Animal glands have been used in perfumes for thousands of years. While most perfumes made today are vegan and cruelty-free, some perfumes, especially those made by smaller indie brands, still contain animal products or byproducts. Examples of animal glands used in perfume include musk, which comes from the musk deer; castoreum, which comes from the beaver; and civet, which comes from the civet cat. These animal gland-derived fragrances are highly sought after for their complex, exotic, and long-lasting scents. However, the methods used to obtain these fragrances are often inhumane and dangerous for the animals involved.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Name of the gland | Musk pod/castor sac/perineal gland/anal gland |
| Animal source | Musk deer/beaver/civet/musk duck/muskox/musk shrew/musk beetle/African civet/musk turtle/American alligator/lynx musk/lungurion |
| Appearance | Reddish-brown paste/yellow paste/brown paste |
| Odor | Sweet, earthy, woody, floral, fecal, musky |
| Process | The gland is dried and then treated with alcohol to dilute the odor |
| Use in perfume | Used as a base note and fixative in perfumes |
| Ethical concerns | Cruel methods, poaching, and hunting of animals |
| Regulation | Trade quantity controlled by CITES, but illegal poaching continues |
| Alternatives | Synthetic musk/vegan and cruelty-free perfumes |
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What You'll Learn
Musk deer glands are a source of perfume fixative
Musk deer glands have been used as a source of perfume fixative since ancient times. The musk deer, a small deer species standing at only 20 inches and weighing 25 pounds, is native to the forests of South Asia and Siberia. The male deer produces musk, a strong-smelling substance, which is stored in a pouch or sac under the skin of its abdomen. This pouch, known as the musk pod, is a preputial gland that secretes a reddish-brown paste with a complex aroma.
To obtain the musk, the male deer is typically killed, and the gland is dried and processed. The reddish-brown paste inside the musk pod dries and turns into a black granular material called "musk grain". This substance is then tinctured with alcohol, which, when diluted, gives off a pleasant fragrance. The musk obtained from deer glands has been highly valued for its long-lasting power as a perfume fixative and is considered one of the most expensive animal products in the world.
However, the use of musk deer glands in perfumery has also sparked ethical concerns. Due to the endangered status of the musk deer, the trade in natural musk is now controlled by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). Despite this, illegal poaching and trading of musk deer continue. As a result, most musk fragrance used in perfumery today is synthetic, often referred to as "white musk".
The use of animal products in perfumery, including musk deer glands, has been a subject of debate due to the potential harm and extinction of animals. While some smaller indie brands and niche perfumers still use animal musk, there has been a growing preference for vegan and cruelty-free fragrances that do not utilize animal ingredients or involve animal testing.
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Civet musk is obtained from the animal's anal glands
For centuries, animal products have been used in perfumery. One such animal product is civet musk, which is obtained from the anal glands of civets. Civets are mammals of the family Viverridae and are often mistaken for cats due to their resemblance. They have pointed noses and long tails.
Civet musk is derived from the secretions of the animal's anal glands. The process of obtaining this musk involves “teasing” the civets and scraping their anal glands, which is uncomfortable and stressful for the animals. The more stressed a civet is, the more musk it secretes, so civet farmers keep them in cramped cages and smoke-filled sheds to maintain a constant state of stress. The initial form of the secretion is pungent and smells of faecal matter.
To make it suitable for perfumery, the civet musk is diluted with alcohol. After dilution, it gives off a sweet and radiant floral scent. The natural ingredient has largely been replaced by fragrance companies with synthetic alternatives such as civetone or civet oil.
The use of civet musk in perfumery has been controversial due to the unethical treatment of civets. They are often captured in the wild and kept in tiny cages, barely larger than their bodies, for up to 15 years. The musk is extracted from their glands every 10 days, and many civets stop eating after the first extraction. Efforts are being made to find more humane ways to collect civet musk, such as gathering their "scent markings" from trees, shrubs, and fencing poles in the wild.
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Beavers are killed for their castoreum-producing sacs
For centuries, beavers have been hunted and killed for their castoreum-producing sacs. Castoreum is an oily, viscid glandular secretion contained in two pairs of membranous sacs between the anus and external genitals of both male and female beavers. It has a highly disagreeable odour due to the presence of an essential oil.
Beavers use castoreum to mark their territory and identify each other. The substance is deposited on rocks and shorelines. While the initial odour of castoreum is pungent and earthy, when mixed with alcohol, it produces a pleasant scent reminiscent of vanilla or raspberry.
The process of obtaining castoreum has historically involved trapping and killing beavers, then removing and drying the castor sacs. This practice contributed to the near extinction of the North American beaver species (Castor canadensis) by 1900. Today, there are more humane methods of obtaining castoreum, such as anesthetizing beavers and "milking" their castor sacs without causing harm. However, this modern method is labour-intensive and makes castoreum a very expensive ingredient.
Castoreum has been used for various purposes throughout history, including as a fixative agent in perfume, as well as in food and medicinal products. In the perfume industry, castoreum is used as a scent note in cosmetic products, providing a ""leather" or "vanilla" aroma. However, due to the labour-intensive and expensive nature of obtaining castoreum, most perfumes today use synthetic alternatives or vegan, cruelty-free ingredients.
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Ambergris is a fixative sourced from sperm whales
Ambergris is a highly valued fixative in perfumery, sourced from the sperm whale. It is a natural and rare occurrence, produced in the digestive system of the whale, specifically in its bile duct and intestines. Sperm whales are known to consume large quantities of squid, and the indigestible beaks and pens are usually vomited out. However, in rare cases, these hard parts move into the intestines, where a waxy substance forms around them, protecting the delicate intestinal walls. This substance is ambergris.
Over time, the ambergris forms a solid mass inside the whale, which is eventually expelled. There are differing theories on how this expulsion occurs. Some believe the whale vomits it out, while others suggest it passes through the rectum along with faecal matter. The expelled ambergris floats in the ocean for years, gradually hardening and developing a crusty, waxy texture. Its scent also matures from a strong faecal odour to a sweet, earthy fragrance, often likened to isopropyl alcohol.
The rarity and unique scent of ambergris have made it a sought-after ingredient in perfumery for centuries. It acts as a fixative, enhancing the longevity of a perfume's scent. The quality of ambergris is categorised by its colour, with pure white varieties being the most valuable. However, due to its scarcity and the legal ambiguity surrounding its collection, synthetic alternatives like ambroxide are now predominantly used in the perfume industry.
Historically, ambergris had various uses beyond perfumery. It was burned as incense in ancient Egypt, believed to purify the air and ward off evil spirits. During the Black Death in Europe, people carried balls of ambergris called pomanders, thinking its pleasant scent could protect them from the plague. Ambergris was also used in traditional medicine in Arabic regions to treat digestive issues, heart conditions, and as a general health tonic. Additionally, it was a popular ingredient in luxury dishes and beverages, such as Turkish coffee, Persian sherbet, and hot chocolate.
Today, the trade in natural musk and ambergris is controlled by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). The use of animal products in perfumery has declined in recent years, with many companies opting for vegan and cruelty-free alternatives.
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Synthetic musk is now used in place of animal products
The use of animal gland secretions in perfumes dates back to ancient times. The musk deer, musk pod, musk duck, musk ox, musk shrew, musk beetle, African civet, musk turtle, American alligator, and lynx are some animals that have been hunted for their musk-like glandular secretions. The demand for these secretions has led to the endangerment and poaching of these animals.
Musk, derived from the Persian and Sanskrit word for "testicle", was originally obtained from the musk deer's gland, resembling a scrotum. The glandular secretion was dried and processed to create a perfume fixative with a long-lasting aroma. Today, the musk deer is a protected species, and the trade in its musk is controlled by the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES).
To address the ethical concerns and declining availability of animal-derived musk, the perfume industry has increasingly turned to synthetic alternatives. Synthetic musk, sometimes called "white musk", has been used in perfumery since the late 19th century but gained prominence in the late 20th century as a replacement for deer musk. It is modelled on the scent of original animal sources, including deer testicles, beaver anal secretions, and sperm whale vomit or secretions.
Synthetic musk offers several advantages over its animal-derived counterpart. It is relatively inexpensive and easy to produce, with a cost of around $800 per kg compared to $28,000 for ambrette seed. Its production is not dependent on environmental factors, and it exhibits extraordinary longevity, persisting on the skin or clothing for several days. The modern musk note is an abstraction of the original animal musk, offering a warm, sweet, sensual, and powdery scent with undertones of natural skin aroma.
While synthetic musk has become the predominant choice for the perfume industry, it is important to note that some synthetic musks have been associated with hazardous effects on human health and the environment. This has sparked debates and led to bans or reductions in the use of certain chemical groups within specific regions. As a result, the industry is continuously working to develop safer alternatives, such as macrocyclic musk compounds.
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Frequently asked questions
One example is musk, a glandular secretion obtained from the musk pod, a preputial gland found in a pouch under the skin of the abdomen of male musk deer.
In its natural form, musk has a strong odor. When diluted, it gives off a sweet, generous, aromatic fragrance with notes of earthiness and woodiness.
Yes, several other animals produce musk-like secretions from their glands. These include the musk duck, musk ox, musk shrew, musk beetle, musk turtle, and the African civet.
The musk pod is extracted by killing the male deer, usually through traps laid in the wild. The reddish-brown musk pod is then dried and turns into a black granular material called "musk grain". This is then tinctured with alcohol and diluted to create a pleasant fragrance.
Yes, historically, several animal products were used in perfumery, including castoreum from beavers, ambergris from sperm whales, and secretions from civets. However, due to ethical concerns and the development of synthetic alternatives, the use of animal products in perfumes has declined. Today, most perfumes are vegan and cruelty-free.
