Anisha Riggs
Fragrance oils, also known as aroma oils, are blended synthetic aroma compounds or natural essential oils. Synthetic fragrance oils are created from artificial chemical components not found in nature, while natural fragrance oils are made by isolating naturally derived fragrance components from complex scents. Natural fragrance oils are often preferred by those with sensitive skin or allergies. Fragrance oils are commonly used in commercial products due to their long-lasting fragrance, and they can be found in many everyday items. The composition of fragrance oils varies, with some containing as few as 40-80 materials, while luxury perfumes may contain up to five times that number.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Composition | Blended synthetic aroma compounds or natural essential oils diluted with a carrier like propylene glycol, vegetable oil, or mineral oil |
| Natural fragrance oil composition | Isolating naturally derived fragrance components from a complex scent, e.g. limonene from lemons, vanillin from vanilla beans, and geraniol from roses |
| Synthetic fragrance oil composition | Artificial chemical components not found in nature |
| Number of materials | One fragrance oil can be made up of 40-80 materials |
| Scent options | More than 200 |
| Average shelf life | 6-12 months |
| Storage conditions | Cool, dark place |
| Skin irritation | May cause skin irritation and induce allergic reactions |
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What You'll Learn
Synthetic vs natural fragrance oils
Fragrance oils, also called aroma oils, aromatic oils, or flavour oils, are blended synthetic aroma compounds or natural essential oils. They are diluted with a carrier like propylene glycol, vegetable oil, or mineral oil. Natural fragrances are scents created from nature, including trees, plants, and animals. Popular scents like coconut, almond, and lavender are often blended with carrier oils and other fragrances. Natural fragrances are complex compositions of natural aromatic raw materials, such as essential oils, fractions of essential oils, isolates, and distillates.
Synthetic fragrances, on the other hand, are developed in laboratories to replicate natural accords without harming the environment. They are created through reactive chemistry and have the same chemical structure as natural fragrances but do not come from botanicals. Synthetic fragrances are often more stable and have a longer shelf life than natural fragrances, which typically last 1-2 years. Synthetic perfumes can last up to five years, and the scents remain richer and denser.
The choice between natural and synthetic fragrances depends on the specific needs of the fragrance. Natural fragrances are perceived as more sustainable and therapeutic, but they can be inconsistent and difficult to recreate. They are also more expensive and may have a shorter shelf life. Synthetic fragrances, meanwhile, offer increased stability and longevity but may be less desirable to those with allergies or sensitivities.
It is important to note that both natural and synthetic fragrances are regulated by organizations like the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) to ensure they are not harmful to humans. The IFRA only allows fragrances marked as "natural" to contain ingredients that correspond to the definitions set by the International Organization for Standardization. Synthetically reconstituted essential oils and intentionally chemically modified natural raw materials cannot be used in fragrance compounds described as "natural".
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Extraction methods
Distillation
Distillation is a widely used technique in the perfume industry to obtain aromatic compounds from plants. It involves heating the raw material, such as lavender, rose, jasmine, patchouli, or sandalwood, with steam. The steam then travels up serpentine pipes, where it condenses to produce a concentrated essential oil. The floral water, or condensate, is collected and allows for the easy separation of the fragrant oils from the water as the oil floats to the top. This method is commonly used for fresh plant materials such as flowers, leaves, and stems.
Solvent Extraction
Solvent extraction uses solvents like benzene or petroleum to dissolve plants, leaving behind a waxy substance containing the oils. The substance is then dissolved in ethyl alcohol, which is burned off, resulting in perfume oil. This method is particularly useful for creating absolutes or concretes.
Enfleurage
Enfleurage is a traditional method of extracting oils from flowers by using fat or wax to absorb their odour. Tiny blooms, such as jasmine or tuberose, are pressed into glass sheets coated with fat for several days to capture their scent. The oils are then extracted by dissolving the fat in an alcoholic solvent. Enfleurage is no longer commonly used due to its high cost and the availability of more efficient methods.
Expression
Expression is an old mechanical extraction process, dating back to the 19th century in Sicily. It is used specifically for citrus fruits to extract the essential oil from the small glands in the peel. High pressure is applied with the help of a press to obtain a liquid called the "absolute," which preserves the original smell of the fruit.
CO2 Extraction
Supercritical carbon dioxide is used as a solvent to extract essential oils from certain materials. When in its supercritical state, between liquid and gas, CO2 penetrates the material to extract volatile oils. This method is more expensive than traditional distillation but can render scents closer to nature and extract ingredients that other methods cannot.
Cold Pressing
Cold pressing is a technique used to extract oils from citrus rinds. It involves applying pressure to the rind to release the oil without the use of heat, preserving the original scent of the fruit.
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Allergies and skin irritation
A fragrance allergy occurs when certain fragrance components, called allergens, come into contact with the skin, triggering a response from the immune system. The skin reacts to protect itself from these allergens, resulting in allergy symptoms.
Allergic contact dermatitis (ACD) is a common reaction to fragrance and can occur in people with or without a history of atopic dermatitis. ACD is an itchy rash that appears on the skin that has been directly exposed to the irritating substance. The rash is not contagious, but it can be very uncomfortable and may burn or sting. It may also spread beyond the initial area of exposure. In some cases, ACD can lead to a secondary bacterial infection if the affected area is repeatedly scratched, providing a place for bacteria to grow.
The face, hands, neck, and armpits are the most commonly affected areas of the body, though fragrance allergens can be transferred to other parts of the body, such as from the hands to the face. Other commonly affected areas include the perianal skin when perfumed toilet paper or wet wipes are used, and the genitals. Symptoms of fragrance allergy can also include hyperpigmentation, which is more typical in people with darker skin tones. In rare cases, a severe allergic reaction called anaphylaxis can occur, which can be dangerous.
To determine whether a fragrance allergy exists, patch testing is often used. This involves placing patches with allergens on the skin of the arm or back for 48 hours, then evaluating the skin's response. However, patch testing may not always be suitable, as it can irritate the skin, and it may be difficult to identify the specific fragrance that caused the reaction, as many products contain a multitude of chemical compounds labelled simply as "fragrance".
To avoid allergic reactions, it is recommended to limit exposure to fragrances and to be cautious when using new fragrant products. The "repeat open application test" is a method where a small amount of a new product is applied to the forearm or upper arm twice a day for two weeks to monitor for any reactions. If a reaction occurs, the product should not be used.
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Fragrance composition and notes
Fragrance composition refers to the blend of synthetic aroma compounds or natural essential oils that make up a fragrance oil. Fragrance oils are diluted with a carrier oil such as propylene glycol, vegetable oil, or mineral oil. While fragrance oils are manufactured in a lab, essential oils are derived from natural sources such as plants, herbs, and flowers using methods like steam distillation.
The main difference between fragrance oils and essential oils lies in their composition and ingredient sourcing. Fragrance oils are synthetic, created from artificial chemical components that do not occur naturally. On the other hand, essential oils are made of natural materials, capturing the scents and flavors of their plant sources.
Natural fragrance oils are created by isolating specific fragrance components from complex natural scents. For example, limonene is derived from lemons, vanillin from vanilla beans, and geraniol from roses. These natural fragrance oils are a good option for those with sensitive skin or fragrance sensitivities.
Essential oils are considered more desirable by some due to their natural origins, but they can also cause skin irritation and allergic reactions if not used correctly. Certain essential oils, such as cinnamon and clove, are known to cause skin irritation and should be avoided in leave-on products.
When creating a signature scent using essential oils, different notes can be combined to create a well-rounded fragrance. Citrus notes, such as bergamot, make good top notes due to their potency and assertiveness. Light and airy floral scents, like jasmine, work well as heart notes, while woodsy scents, such as sandalwood, cedarwood, and labdanum, provide longevity and depth as base notes.
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Shelf life and storage
The average shelf life of fragrance oils is about a year, but this can vary depending on the composition of the oil and the storage conditions. Some fragrance oils may last for several years, but it is recommended to use them within six months to a year.
To maximise the shelf life of fragrance oils, it is important to store them properly. Fragrance oils should be kept in a cool, dry, dark place, away from direct sunlight and heat sources. The ideal storage temperature range is 18.3°C to 29.4°C. Fragrance oils can crystallise at lower temperatures, so refrigeration is not recommended. Extreme temperature changes can also shorten the life of the oil, so it is best to avoid storing them in garages, attics, basements, or sheds unless they are temperature-controlled.
It is also important to store fragrance oils in airtight containers, as exposure to air can cause the oil to evaporate and break down over time. Dark-coloured glass bottles, such as amber or cobalt blue, are the best types of containers to use, as they protect the oil from UV rays. It is also recommended to keep the bottles tightly closed when not in use and to transfer the oil to a smaller bottle if the container is too large, to minimise the oil's contact with oxygen.
Over time, fragrance oils may undergo changes in colour, which can indicate that the oil has oxidised or degraded. To check the colour of oils stored in dark bottles, you can dip a fragrance blotter strip into the oil or pour a small amount into a clear container. Oxidation can cause the oil to lose its scent and aromatic properties, and it may also become rancid or contaminated with bacteria, which can cause skin irritation or infection. Therefore, it is important to use fragrance oils within their recommended shelf life and to store them properly to ensure their quality and safety.
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Frequently asked questions
Fragrance oils, also known as aroma oils, aromatic oils, or flavor oils, are blended synthetic aroma compounds or natural essential oils. They are diluted with a carrier like propylene glycol, vegetable oil, or mineral oil.
Fragrance oils are composed of synthetic aroma chemicals and natural ingredients like essential oils, extracts, and resins. Just one fragrance oil can be made up of 40-80 materials.
There are two broad categories of fragrance oil: synthetic and natural. Synthetic oils are created from artificial chemical components that are not found in nature, while natural fragrance oils are made by isolating naturally derived fragrance components from complex scents.
Fragrance oils are manufactured in a lab, while essential oils are made of natural materials. Essential oils are extracted from herbs, flowers, and plants, while fragrance oils are created in a lab to imitate a naturally occurring scent.
