Anisha Riggs
In the perfume industry, a flanker is a fragrance that shares some attributes with an already existing perfume. It is a sequel to a popular scent, banking on the original's success. Flankers are reinterpretations of classics, borrowing the name and olfactory scheme of the original fragrance to create a new composition. They can be seen as little brothers or sisters of the original scent, bringing something new to the series. The creation of a flanker involves adding a touch of novelty to the original composition, such as new ingredients or changes in dosage, to create a distinct scent.
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What You'll Learn
Flankers are a way to build on the original fragrance
Flankers are a way to build on an original fragrance while offering something new. They are like sequels to popular perfumes, bringing something novel to the series while banking on the original's success. They are often launched to make a registered name profitable, or to occupy as much space as possible on perfumery shelves.
Creating a flanker is a challenging task, as it requires preserving the spirit and original universe of the perfume while giving it a different angle and taking the composition in a new olfactory direction. Flankers are not collector's editions, which are limited or unlimited re-launches of fragrances that have already proven their worth.
A flanker fragrance may share attributes of an existing perfume, such as its name, packaging, or notes. For example, Dior's Poison fragrance from 1985 was followed by flankers such as Tendre Poison in 1994, Hypnotic Poison in 1998, and Pure Poison in 2004, each with its own unique twist on the original scent. Mugler is also known for its expertise in flankering, with variations on its Angel, Alien, and Aura fragrances that contort the original signatures into unfamiliar shapes through various methods.
Some flankers amplify or subvert specific nuances of the original scent, while others completely twist and transform it. For example, Girl of Now Forever takes the sweet almond core of Girl of Now and amplifies it with orange flower and raspberry notes, resulting in a fragrance that feels both familiar and new. Kenzo World Power, a flanker to Kenzo World, stands out by playing with opposing forces, combining the sweet creaminess of vanilla with the savoury, mineral scent of sea salt crystals.
Flankers can also represent reinterpretations of classics, borrowing the name and olfactory scheme of an existing perfume to create a distinct composition. They may be "rejuvenated" versions of older best-sellers or formulas that are "virilized" to appeal to different genders. For example, Tom Ford's Grey Vetiver fragrance originally had a light, fresh EDT version that was discontinued and replaced by a heavier, darker Parfum flanker. This shift reflects a broader trend in the perfume market, with lighter, fresher fragrances being replaced by louder, thicker, and more oriental scents, particularly in the designer market.
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They are similar to sequels in the film industry
In the perfume industry, a flanker fragrance is a newly created scent that shares some attributes with an already existing perfume. These attributes may include the name, packaging, or notes of the original fragrance. Flanker fragrances are similar to sequels in the film industry, as they build upon the success of an existing product and save costs on marketing and advertising. Like sequels, flanker fragrances may offer a new twist or extension of the original scent while still retaining key elements that made the original fragrance popular.
For example, Dior's 1985 fragrance Poison was followed by several flankers, including Tendre Poison (1994), Hypnotic Poison (1998), and Pure Poison (2004). Each of these flankers offered a unique take on the original Poison fragrance, such as adding sweeter or more hypnotic notes. Similarly, in the film industry, a successful movie may spawn sequels that explore different storylines or themes while still retaining the core elements that made the original film a hit.
Flanker fragrances, like sequels, can be a way for brands to capitalize on the popularity of an existing product and reach a wider audience. They can also be used to revive interest in an older fragrance or to target a different demographic. For example, a flanker fragrance may be designed to appeal to a younger audience or to those who prefer heavier or lighter scents. Similarly, film sequels can be used to target different demographics or to appeal to a changing market.
However, just as not all sequels are successful, flanker fragrances can also be risky ventures. Creating a successful flanker fragrance requires a delicate balance between preserving the spirit of the original scent and offering something new and exciting. If a flanker fragrance strays too far from the original, it may lose the very essence that made the original fragrance popular in the first place. Similarly, a film sequel that veers too far from the original concept may fail to capture the magic that made the first film a success.
Ultimately, flanker fragrances and film sequels share a similar strategy of building upon the success of an existing product while offering something new and exciting to consumers. Whether in the perfume industry or the film industry, the key to a successful flanker or sequel is finding the right balance between familiarity and innovation.
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They are a cost-effective way to launch new scents
Flanker fragrances are a cost-effective way to launch new scents and build on the success of an existing fragrance. They are a way for brands to capitalise on an already successful fragrance by creating a "sequel" or "offshoot" with a similar name, packaging, or notes. This strategy saves money on advertising and product development, as flanker fragrances are often created with similar ingredients or variations of the original scent.
For example, Dior's 1985 fragrance Poison was followed by several flankers, including Tendre Poison in 1994, Hypnotic Poison in 1998, and Pure Poison in 2004. Each of these flankers offered a new twist on the original Poison fragrance, allowing Dior to attract new customers while also appealing to fans of the original scent.
Flanker fragrances are also a way for perfumers to experiment with new notes and ingredients while still maintaining the core DNA of the original fragrance. This allows perfumers to take risks and try out new ideas without completely abandoning the familiar. For example, Mugler's Angel Muse takes the chocolate-patchouli-vanilla blend of the original Angel fragrance and rounds it off with a nutty blend of hazelnut, patchouli, and vanilla, resulting in a super smooth and creamy Nutella-like scent.
In addition to cost savings, flanker fragrances can also help brands occupy more shelf space in perfumeries and appeal to a wider range of customers. They can also be used to make a registered name more profitable or to target a different demographic. For example, Paco Rabanne's "1 Million" fragrance for men was followed by a flanker perfume "Lady Million" aimed at women, allowing the brand to expand its reach.
Overall, flanker fragrances are a cost-effective strategy for brands to launch new scents, build on the success of existing fragrances, and appeal to a wider range of customers. By offering variations on familiar themes, flanker fragrances provide a low-risk way to experiment with new notes and ingredients while still maintaining the core essence of the original scent.
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They can be a marketing ploy
Flanker fragrances are a marketing ploy in the sense that they are a way for brands to capitalise on the success of an existing fragrance. They are a "safe" option for brands to launch a new product with a lower risk of failure, as flankers are often guaranteed sales from fans of the original fragrance. Flankers are also a way for brands to occupy more space on the shelves of perfumeries.
Creating a flanker fragrance is a strategic move by perfumers to reinterpret an existing perfume with a touch of novelty, aiming to make it more appealing to consumers. This can involve adding new ingredients, changing dosages, or targeting a different demographic, such as with "virilized" formulas of feminine fragrances and vice versa. Flankers allow brands to shine a light on an existing franchise while offering something new to the consumer.
For example, Dior's 1985 fragrance Poison was followed by several flankers, including Tendre Poison (1994), Hypnotic Poison (1998), and Pure Poison (2004). These flankers shared the same name and similar packaging as the original but offered a new twist on the scent, such as by adding new notes or amplifying certain nuances.
Some flankers have been criticised as being nothing more than a marketing ploy, with some brands accused of simply rehashing the same jig over and over to save money on launching a truly new scent. For instance, Dior has been notorious for releasing flankers with the same name, such as Dior Homme Cologne and Dior Homme Parfum, that smell nothing alike.
In conclusion, while flanker fragrances can be a creative way to extend the life of a popular fragrance and offer something new to consumers, they can also be seen as a marketing strategy by brands to capitalise on the success of an existing perfume and increase their market presence.
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They can be better or worse than the original scent
Flanker fragrances are newly created perfumes that share some attributes of an already existing perfume. These attributes may be the name, packaging, or notes of the original fragrance. Flankers are like sequels to popular perfumes, and they can be better or worse than the original scent.
Some flanker fragrances are considered to be much better than the original scent. For example, Kenzo World Power is said to be better than Kenzo World because it plays with opposing forces, with the sweet creaminess of vanilla clashing against the savoury, mineral air of sea salt crystals. Similarly, within Lancome's Idole line, the flanker Idole L'Intense is considered to be better than the original Idole scent, which was a generic rose scent. Idole L'Intense has the same story about Lancôme's signature rose, but it feels fresh and alive, with springy velvety petals and dew drops, along with a stimulating yet subtle berry sourness.
Mugler is also known for its flankers, with Angel Muse being a daring evolution of Angel. Angel Muse shares one key theme with the original Angel fragrance, but it has a super smooth and super creamy Nutella scent made interesting by a shock of salty-green vetiver.
Some flankers are considered to be standalone fragrances that could have been their own entity, with their own bottle and name. La Petite Robe Noire Intense is one such example, where the cherry and black tea of the original fragrance are swapped out for blueberry compote and candy floss.
However, not all flankers are well-received. Some are considered to be mere marketing ploys, with no clear connection to the original scent. For example, the flankers of Dior Homme, such as Dior Homme Cologne and Dior Homme Parfum, smell nothing like the original scent, despite being considered flankers.
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Frequently asked questions
A flanker fragrance is a newly created perfume that shares some attributes of an already existing perfume. These attributes may be the name, packaging, or notes of the existing fragrance. It is a fragrance within a franchise, an offshoot of a popular fragrance that brings something new to the series.
Flanker fragrances are an easy way for perfume brands to build on an existing fragrance while offering something new. They save money on launching a new scent, advertising, etc. by rehashing the same concept. Flankers are also a way to make a registered name that has not been as successful as expected profitable.
Creating a flanker fragrance is a meticulous process that involves preserving the spirit and the original universe of the perfume while giving it a different angle and orienting the composition in a new olfactory direction. The perfumer must reformulate the original composition by adding a touch of novelty, such as new ingredients or changes in dosage to highlight a particular raw material.
Yes, here are a few examples:
- Dior's Poison (1985) was followed by flankers Tendre Poison (1994), Hypnotic Poison (1998), Pure Poison (2004), Midnight Poison (2007), and Poison Girl (2016).
- Issey Miyake's "L'eau d'Issey" (1992) was followed by "L'eau d'Issey Pour Homme" (1994) and "L'Eau d'Issey Florale" (2011).
- Marc Jacobs' Daisy was followed by Daisy Dream, a flanker that flanks the original Daisy fragrance.
