Antonio Mcgowan
The term balsamic in perfumes refers to a fragrant balm created from the use of balsams and resins in fragrances. It is not to be confused with balsamic vinegar. The term balsamic comes from the Latin 'balsamum', meaning fragrant balm. Balsamic notes are often described as warm, rich, sweet, soft, soothing, and sensual. Examples of balsamic notes include amber, myrrh gum, opoponax resin, Peru balsam, tonka bean, and vanilla. These notes are commonly used in Middle Eastern, Indian, and oriental style fragrances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition | Balsam means a resin rich in essential oil |
| Origin | The term balsam derives from the Latin word "balsamum", which translates to fragrant balm |
| Raw materials | Balms and resins are raw materials that are collectively known as balsamic notes |
| Common raw materials | Benzoin, Cistus Labdanum, Incense, myrrh, Peru balsam, Styrax, Tolu Balsam and Copahu balsam |
| Rarest raw material | Siamese benzoin |
| Most valued raw material | Myrrh |
| Odor profile | Soft, warm, sensual, woody, fruity, earthy, sweet, vanilla, cinnamon, incense, licorice, floral, leathery, rich, milky |
| Use | Used as a fixative in perfumes to make them longer-lasting |
| Commercial use | Used as a fragrance and flavoring agent in deodorants, lotions, sunscreens, shampoos, colas, aperitifs, baked goods, flavored tobaccos, cough medicines, dental cement, etc. |
| Allergens | Considered one of the top five contact allergens |
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What You'll Learn
Balsamic notes are derived from the Latin word 'balsamum'
The term "balsamic" in perfumery refers to a family of fragrances that are soothing, soft, warm, and sensual. The word "balsamic" is derived from the Latin word "balsamum", which translates to fragrant balm. The Latin word "balsamum" is itself derived from the Greek word "βάλσαμον" or "balsamon", which means "balsam-like" and conveys the idea of something "restorative" or "curative".
Balsamic notes in perfumery are derived from raw materials such as balms and resins, which are known to complement vanilla and add a mysterious nuance to any fragrance. These notes are often found in the ambery family of fragrances formulated by perfume masters. The most frequently used balms and resins in perfumery include benzoin, cistus labdanum, incense, myrrh, Peru balsam, styrax, tolu balsam, and copahu balsam.
Peru balsam, for example, comes from a tree indigenous to El Salvador. Its olfactory profile is sweet, with touches of lush vanilla, warm cinnamon, and slight earthy, bitter aspects. Styrax balsam, on the other hand, derives from two species of trees found in Syria, Asia Minor, and Africa. Its olfactory profile is intensely vanilla, floral, leathery, rich, and milky.
Balsamic notes are often used in conjunction with rich floral essences to create semi-Orientals or florientals. They help to fix flowers and make floral notes more candied. For instance, in Fracas by Piguet, tolu balsam acts on the tuberose, and in Gold by Donna Karan, it enhances the ambery lily.
In summary, the term "balsamic" in perfumery refers to a family of fragrances with soft, warm, and soothing characteristics, derived from raw materials such as balms and resins. The use of the word "balsamic" in perfumery is related to its etymological roots, conveying the idea of something restorative and curative.
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They are known for their soft, warm, and sensual character
Balsamic perfumes are known for their soft, warm, and sensual character. The term balsamic comes from the Latin 'balsamum', meaning fragrant balm. In perfumery, balsamic notes are created by using balsams and resins, which are among the oldest raw materials used in fragrances. These notes are soothing and warm, with a soft and sensual character. They are often described as sweet, woody, and spicy, with a hint of vanilla.
Balsamic notes are commonly found in Middle Eastern, Indian, and oriental-style fragrances. They are known for their rich and warm scents, with a soft and enveloping character. The use of balsams and resins in perfumery can be traced back thousands of years, where they were used as a base or fixative for fragrances. Today, they are still valued for their ability to enhance and prolong the scent of flowers, creating lasting fragrances.
The balsam of Tolu, produced mainly in Colombia, is known for its warm and woody scent with sweet and unctuous tones. Another important balsam is the balsam of Peru, which comes from a tree native to South America. It has a sweet, almost caramelized scent with waxy and leathery undertones. Copahu balm, from the copayer, is also used in perfumery and has a woodier, more aromatic character with spicy and sweet notes.
Other ingredients that can create balsamic notes include myrrh, a gum-resin with a sensual, woody, and almost fruity scent; frankincense, which adds depth and warmth; and labdanum gum, which evokes an amber and animalised scent. These raw materials offer deep and persistent scents with earthy and leathery nuances, contributing to the soft, warm, and sensual character of balsamic perfumes.
Some popular balsamic fragrances for men include Parfums De Marly Herod, which features spicy and sweet notes of cinnamon and vanilla, and Interlude Man, known for its warm and resinous scent. For women, options include Ambre Sultan, Idole de Lubin, and La Myrrhe, which all showcase the soft, warm, and sensual qualities of balsamic notes in their compositions.
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They are most commonly found in amber fragrances
Balsamic notes are a key element in the world of perfumery, offering a rich, deep, and sensual character to a fragrance. These notes are most commonly associated with amber fragrances, where they provide a warm, resinous, and sweet balsamic vibe. The term 'balsamic' originates from the word 'balsam', referring to a tree resin with therapeutic properties, often used in ancient times as a healing balm.
When we think of balsamic notes, we often think of resins, which are exuded from trees and have a sticky, viscous consistency. These resins offer a wide range of olfactory profiles, from warm and honeyed to bright and fresh, with a slight astringent edge. The most well-known balsamic notes in perfumery include labdanum, benzoin, tolu balsam, and Peru balsam.
Labdanum, derived from the cistus plant, offers a rich, sweet, and animalic scent with hints of honey and musk. Benzoin, produced from the Styrax tree, provides a warm, vanilla-like sweetness with a slight astringency, adding depth and longevity to a fragrance. Tolu balsam, sourced from the South American Myroxylon tree, has a beautiful, smooth, and slightly spicy aroma with hints of cinnamon and caramel. Peru balsam, obtained from the Peruvian Myroxylon tree, offers a similar scent profile to tolu balsam but with a more intense vanilla and cinnamon character, along with a slight tobacco nuance.
These balsamic notes are integral to the composition of amber fragrances, providing depth, warmth, and longevity. They blend seamlessly with other notes commonly found in amber scents, such as vanilla, tonka bean, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood. The result is a rich, sensual, and enveloping fragrance that leaves a lasting impression. Amber fragrances are often associated with opulence and luxury, and the balsamic notes within them play a pivotal role in creating this aura of sophistication and depth.
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They are made from balms and resins such as benzoin, myrrh, and styrax
Resins, also known as balms, are thick, sticky, viscous substances exuded from trees. They are highly fragrant and have been used as primary ingredients in perfumes and other fragrances since ancient times. They are often used in fragrances of the oriental or amber family, complementing vanilla and adding a note of mystery to the scent.
Benzoin is a balsamic resin obtained from the bark of several species of trees in the genus Styrax. It is used in perfumes, incense, medicine, and flavouring. In its liquid state, benzoin is white and turns yellow as it dries. It is harvested by creating notches in the bark of the tree trunk to make it "cry" and collecting the "tears". Benzoin has a sweet vanilla-like aroma and is used as a fixative in perfumes, slowing the dispersion of essential oils and other fragrant materials into the air. It is also used in scented candles, cosmetics, and veterinary medicine.
Myrrh is a dark brown aromatic gum with a rich, warm, balsamic scent. It is considered the most exquisite and precious perfume and is composed of 60% gum, 30% resin essence, and a bitter note. There are over a hundred varieties of myrrh, with the most prized varieties producing "oleo-gum-resin" in the form of natural exudations or "tears".
Styrax is a liquid resin with a strong vanilla, balsamic, floral, but also animal and leathery scent. It has been used as a supporting note in "Cuir de Russie" compositions, such as Chanel's. It is obtained by distilling the balm and has a benzine-smelling essence called styrol, in addition to cinnamic acid and styracin.
These balms and resins are used as base notes in perfumes, creating sweet, woody, and spicy scents while anchoring the entire scent profile and allowing it to develop over time.
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Peru balsam is a popular balsamic perfume ingredient
Peru Balsam is a popular ingredient in balsamic perfumes. The name "Balsam of Peru" comes from the Myroxylon balsamamum tree, which means "fragrant wood" in Greek. The balsam is produced by removing strips of bark from the tree, causing the wood to secrete the balsam, which is then boiled. Although the tree is named after Peru, it is not native to the region and is now mainly found in El Salvador.
Peru Balsam has a warm, sweet, and woody scent with hints of vanilla, cinnamon, and a touch of earthiness or bitterness. It is described as "balmy," characterised by softness and a soothing, cosy feel. The warmth and softness of balsamic ingredients like Peru Balsam are favoured by perfumers, as they help to enhance and prolong the life of floral notes in a perfume composition.
Peru Balsam is a key ingredient in several perfumes. Guerlain's Vol de Nuit features a generous helping of Peru Balsam, creating an oriental accord with a green top note. A hint of Peru Balsam in Shalimar Eau de Cologne gives a darker vanilla character, while a more prominent use of it in Jardins d'Écrivains Orlando results in a gloomy scent inspired by Virginia Woolf's "Orlando." Other perfumes that feature Peru Balsam include HARA by Herron Scents, Diptyque Eau Nabati, and Baume Tolu by Esteban.
The popularity of Peru Balsam in perfumery is due to its unique scent and its ability to enhance other notes. However, it is important to note that it is identified as a potential skin sensitizer, so patch testing is recommended for individuals with sensitive skin.
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Frequently asked questions
Balsamic perfumes are characterised by sweet, resinous notes. They are soothing and warm, with a soft and sensual finish. Notes of amber, myrrh gum, opoponax resin, Peru balsam, tonka bean, immortelle, elemi, birch tar, frankincense, benzoin styrax, Tolu balsam, and vanilla are all examples of balsamic notes.
The term balsamic comes from the Latin 'balsamum', meaning fragrant balm. It is not to be confused with vinegar, although the term balsamic vinegar refers to the balm of the barrels in which it is kept.
Popular balsamic perfumes include Parfums De Marly Herod, Ambre Sultan, Idole de Lubin, and Lonestar Memories.
