Katrina Rosales
Animalic perfumes are fragrances that contain animal-derived products or raw materials harvested from animal sources. They are typically found in the base notes of a perfume and can complement and amplify other notes. Animalic scents are not for everyone, as they can be overpowering and are often fecal. Examples of animal-derived products include civet, castoreum, ambergris, and musk. Today, synthetic replacements are more commonly used than actual materials from animals.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition | Animalic perfumes contain animal-derived products or evoke animal-like qualities. |
| Notes | Base notes that complement and amplify other notes in the perfume. |
| Examples of animal-derived products | Civet, castoreum, ambergris, or tonkin musk. |
| Examples of plant or synthetic origin products | White musks, oud, costus. |
| Use | Animalic notes are typically found in amber or oriental perfumes. |
| Odor | Animalic notes can be overpowering or subtle and sexy. They add depth and dimension to perfumes. |
| Synthetic replacements | The use of synthetic replacements is more common today due to restrictions on the use of animal-derived products and ethical concerns. |
| Historical sources of musk | Musk glands of animals such as civet, deer musk, ambergris, and castoreum. |
| Synthetic musks | Nitromusks, musk ketones, and lactones (plant-based) were developed in the 1920s or earlier. |
| Current use of animal-derived musks | Genuine ambergris, civet, castoreum, and deer musk are rarely used today due to their high cost and ethical concerns. |
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What You'll Learn
Animal-derived products
Historically, animal-derived products used in perfumery included essences from the fecal matter and perineum region glands of various animals. These included Tibetan deer musk (also known as Tonkin musk), civet (from the anal gland of the civet cat), castoreum (from beavers), and ambergris (a digestive byproduct of sperm whales). Of these, ambergris is the most gentle and is often found washed up on beaches in New Zealand. It has an aromatic, marine-like scent with soft, musky notes.
Today, the use of animal-derived products in perfumery has largely been replaced by synthetic alternatives due to ethical concerns and the near extinction of some animal sources, such as the musk deer. Synthetic musks, such as nitromusks and musk ketones, were developed in the 1920s and are now commonly used in fragrances for their fixative properties and the soft, comforting effect they impart.
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Synthetic replacements
Musk notes, for example, are now all synthetic and are perceived as much cleaner than one might expect. Nitro musks such as Galaxolide are used due to their substantive and long-lasting effects. They are not very soluble in water, so they stay on fabric through the wash cycle. However, this also means that many are not biodegradable or environmentally friendly.
Synthetic ambergris is also commonly used. Ambergris is a pathological concretion of the sperm whale and is found washed up on beaches. It has an aromatic, almost marine-like scent. Synthetic versions are often used and work well with sandalwood for a soft, skin-like accord. Synthetic raw materials used to replace ambergris include Grisalva, Grisambrol, Cetalox, Ambrofix, and Paracresyl Isobutyrate.
Castoreum, which is traditionally obtained from the castor sacs of beavers, has also been largely replaced by synthetic alternatives. It has a strong, musky scent with hints of birch tar and vanilla.
Synthetic civet is another common replacement. Civet is the main material used to create animalic notes and is extracted from the anal gland of the civet cat. Synthetic alternatives include Civetone, which is an aromatic ketone naturally occurring in genuine civet secretions. It is often combined with myristic acid, which helps to round out and contribute to the fatty, waxy scent profile of authentic civet. Skatole and Indole are also useful additions but must be used with caution as they can easily overwhelm the delicate balance that the perfumer seeks to achieve.
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History of animalic perfumes
Animalic perfumes have been an integral part of the history of perfumery since ancient times. The use of animal notes in perfumery can be traced back to ancient Egypt, where animalic scents were used to embalm the body and communicate with the divine. Civet, a musky secretion produced by the African civet cat, was highly regarded in ancient Egypt for its rarity and mysterious allure. The substance was often reserved for sacred rituals or exchanged as precious gifts among the nobility.
During the Renaissance, animalic perfumes became popular among the wealthy and were considered a symbol of high social status. The profession of glover-perfumers contributed to the association between animal scents and perfumery. Amber, musk, or civet was used to perfume bodies, clothes, and houses, not only for their pleasant scent but also for their supposed medicinal properties and aphrodisiac powers.
One of the key ingredients in the perfumer's palette is musk, derived from the secretion of the musk deer, an animal native to Asia. The trade in musk was flourishing until the 1900s due to its powerful scent and aphrodisiac qualities. However, with the modernization of perfumery and the evolution of manufacturing techniques, the presence of animalic notes gradually diminished, giving way to fresher and lighter floral perfumes.
Today, ethical concerns have led to a shift towards synthetic alternatives that skillfully recreate the warm and sensual notes of animalic perfumes. Synthetic molecules, such as cetalox or ambroxan, can be synthesized in a laboratory to mimic the natural scents without causing harm to animals. This cruelty-free approach to animalic fragrance creation allows perfumers to continue to explore the captivating universe of scent while preserving the timeless appeal of animal-inspired compositions.
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Examples of animalic perfumes
When it comes to perfumery, the term "animalic" refers to scents that evoke the scent of animals or their by-products. These fragrances often feature notes derived from natural animal sources or synthetic reproductions that capture the essence of animalic accords. Animalic perfumes have a long history in the world of perfumery and continue to fascinate and captivate wearers even in modern times. Here are some examples of animalic perfumes that showcase the intriguing and sensual nature of this fragrance family:
One iconic example of an animalic perfume is "Musc Ravageur" by Maurice Roucel for Frédéric Malle. This sensual and alluring fragrance features notes of warm, sweet musk, amber, and lavender, creating an intense and captivating scent. The musk note in this composition is an animalic accord, evoking the scent of clean, warm skin and adding a deeply sensual and intimate character to the fragrance.
"Amouage Jubilation 25 Men" by Bertrand Duchaufour is another exquisite animalic fragrance. This luxurious and opulent perfume features a rich blend of honey, spices, and agarwood, with a prominent animalic accord of civet. The civet note adds a deep, earthy, and slightly leathery aspect to the fragrance, enhancing its complexity and depth. Jubilation 25 is a perfect example of how animalic notes can add a sophisticated and exotic character to a perfume.
For a more classic take on animalic perfumes, "Guerlain Shalimar" is a legendary fragrance with a rich history. Created in 1925, Shalimar features a blend of citrus, vanilla, and balsamic notes, with a prominent use of civet and leather accords. The animalic notes in this composition add a sensual, warm, and slightly feral character to the fragrance, enhancing its allure and mystery. Shalimar is a testament to the enduring appeal of animalic perfumes and their ability to captivate the senses.
"Kilian Incense Oud" by Kilian Hennessy is a modern take on animalic perfumery. This fragrance combines sacred incense with the deep, resinous scent of oud wood, and features a prominent animalic accord of castoreum. Castoreum is a natural material produced by beavers, and it lends a leathery, woody, and slightly animalic note to the composition. Incense Oud showcases how animalic notes can be incorporated into contemporary fragrances to add depth, complexity, and a unique, signature character.
Lastly, "Byredo Pulp" offers a fruity take on animalic perfumes. This fragrance features a juicy blend of fig, bergamot, and red apple, with a subtle but distinct animalic accord of beeswax. The beeswax note adds a soft, warm, and slightly honeyed aspect to the composition, enhancing the fruity notes and adding a subtle, sensual depth. Pulp demonstrates how animalic notes can be used subtly to enhance and enrich a fragrance without being overtly assertive or dominant.
These examples showcase the diverse and captivating nature of animalic perfumes, where notes inspired by the animal kingdom add depth, intrigue, and a unique, sensual character to fragrances. Whether it's the warm musk, the earthy civet, the leathery castoreum, or subtle beeswax, animalic notes continue to play a significant role in perfumery, appealing to those who seek scents that are both memorable and intimately connected to the natural world.
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How animalic perfumes are made
Animalic perfumes are typically those that smell like skin, fur, body odour and, in some cases, faecal notes. They are considered powerful, sensual and pervasive, and they act as a fixative, enhancing the depth of a fragrance.
Animalic perfumes were originally made using animal-derived ingredients, such as musk, ambergris, civet, deer musk, castoreum and hyraceum. Musk, for example, was originally sourced from the abdominal glands of male musk deer. Ambergris is a waxy byproduct of sperm whales, and civet is a secretion of the North American beaver, used to protect its fur and hair from cold and humidity.
However, due to ethical concerns and the endangerment of certain animal species, the use of these animal-derived ingredients has been restricted or banned in many places. For instance, ambergris cannot be collected, kept or sold in the United States, Canada, the UK and Europe.
Today, most animalic perfumes use synthetic alternatives to recreate these animal-like scents while remaining cruelty-free. Synthetic musks, such as nitromusks, musk ketones and lactones, were developed in the 1920s and are still used today. Civetone, a synthetic musk, is one such example that is said to be very attractive to jaguars. Synthetic ambergris is also created in laboratories by assembling various molecules to mimic the natural product.
Some plant-based ingredients can also contribute to animalic notes in perfumes. For example, indole, found in white florals like jasmine, can add animalic traces to a fragrance when used in trace amounts.
While the use of synthetic alternatives is now prevalent, the creation of animalic perfumes remains a complex and nuanced process, balancing the strength of these distinctive notes to create captivating fragrances.
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Frequently asked questions
Animalic notes in perfume are scents that are derived from raw materials of animal origin, such as civet, castoreum, ambergris, or tonkin musk. They can also be derived from raw materials of plant or synthetic origin, such as certain white musks, oud, or costus. These notes are typically found in amber or oriental perfumes and are usually in the base notes of a perfume, below the florals.
Animalic notes are used in perfumes to complement and amplify other notes in the perfume. They can also act as fixatives, prolonging the duration of the aromatic components so that they do not evaporate as quickly. Animalic notes can add depth and dimension to rich floral or amber perfumes.
While natural animalic notes are still used in some perfumes, they are typically restricted or not allowed for use in perfumes manufactured or sold in the EU. Today, synthetic replacements are more commonly used, such as synthetic musks, which are perceived as much cleaner than their natural counterparts.
