Heidi Norton
Volatile Fiction is a blog by Pia Long, a Finnish indie perfumer and writer based in England. Long has worked with several brands in the fragrance industry, including Lush, Orchadia Solutions, and Olfiction. She has also contributed to the magazine 'The Scented Letter' by the Perfume Society, the first club for perfume enthusiasts. Long describes perfumers as illusionists, telling us stories through smell. In her blog, she explores the world of perfumery, including the different ways people appreciate and connect through scents and the process of creating fragrances.
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What You'll Learn
The public perception of perfumers has changed over time
The public perception of perfumers has evolved over the years. Twenty years ago, the typical image of a perfumer was that of a mysterious, probably French, and male individual who was not usually the face of his creations. However, this stereotype has shifted significantly. The advent of the Internet has played a pivotal role in this transformation, making information (and misinformation) widely accessible and empowering independent perfumers to establish themselves outside the traditional fragrance house-brand-consumer structure. This has led to a proliferation of self-proclaimed perfumers, leaving some established perfumers bewildered or even agitated.
The growth of online platforms and social media has also influenced the perfumery industry. Blogs, YouTube, Reddit, Facebook, and podcasts have become popular avenues for discussions around fragrances, with peer-to-peer influencing gaining prominence. This shift in information dissemination has likely impacted how perfumers and their craft are perceived by the public. Additionally, the rise of independent perfumers and direct access to consumers has contributed to a more diverse and inclusive landscape, challenging traditional gender norms.
The fragrance community is witnessing an increase in male buyers, with the male segment projected to reach USD 23.85 billion by 2023, showcasing a substantial growth rate. This shift in demographics is influencing the types of fragrances designed and marketed by companies, as they adapt to appeal to this emerging buyer profile. The fragrance industry is also experiencing a shift from mass-market fragrances to premium and luxury products, with a growing emphasis on quality, personalization, and exclusivity. This trend is particularly notable in emerging economies such as India and China, where the demand for mass perfume products is rising.
The perfumery industry is also being influenced by cultural shifts and diverse communities, such as the growing presence of the Black community in fragrance development. Trailblazers like Roger Howell and Howard Kennedy, the latter of whom started the first Black-owned company, Royal Essence Ltd., are breaking barriers and creating opportunities within the industry. Additionally, literary initiatives, such as scent enthusiast Marta Dziurosz's exploration of scents in literature, further showcase the multifaceted nature of perfumery and its ability to transcend disciplines.
Overall, the public perception of perfumers has evolved from an air of mystery to a more accessible and diverse profession. The digital age has played a pivotal role in this transformation, empowering independent perfumers, diversifying the industry, and providing direct connections between perfumers and consumers. As the industry continues to evolve, it will be fascinating to witness the ongoing innovations and shifts in public perception.
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The internet has made it easier for independent perfumers to establish themselves
The internet has transformed the way independent perfumers establish themselves and connect with their audiences. No longer is the perfumer a mysterious, elusive figure, as they were often perceived to be in the past. The internet has opened up new avenues for independent perfumers to showcase their creations and interact directly with consumers, bypassing the traditional structure of fragrance houses and brands.
Online platforms, such as TikTok, have played a pivotal role in this transformation. The rise of "PerfumeTok" has democratized the fragrance industry, providing a space for independent perfumers to share their craft and build a community of engaged followers. Creators like Funmi Monet, who gained recognition through her insightful perfume recommendations on TikTok, exemplify how the internet has empowered individuals to establish themselves in the perfumery world.
Social media has also fostered a sense of community among perfume enthusiasts, with fans cheering for specific perfumers and connecting with them on a personal level. This shift has elevated perfumers to celebrity status, with fans following their favorite noses across different platforms. As a result, independent perfumers can now more easily build a dedicated fan base and find success without adhering to conventional industry pathways.
Additionally, the internet has made information and educational resources more accessible to aspiring perfumers. Self-taught perfumers can learn from a plethora of online sources, including YouTube videos, forums, and perfume blogs. While the abundance of information can be overwhelming and sometimes misleading, it has lowered the barriers to entry for those passionate about perfumery.
The impact of the internet on the perfumery landscape extends beyond business and education. It has also sparked important conversations about ethics in the industry. Online platforms have amplified discussions about labor practices in ingredient sourcing and the use of certain terminology in perfume marketing. These conversations, now more mainstream than ever, are shaping the industry and challenging established norms.
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The process of becoming a perfumer
To become a perfumer, one typically needs a solid foundation in chemistry, as the profession involves working with various chemical and natural compounds. Many perfumers hold degrees in chemistry, biology, or a related field. Specialized perfumery schools, such as L'Ecole du parfum or ISIPCA in France, offer comprehensive courses that teach students about the art and science of fragrance creation, from understanding raw materials to the marketing and branding aspects of the industry. These courses can range from bachelor's to master's degrees, with some schools offering work-study programs that allow students to gain experience in the industry while they study.
In addition to their artistic abilities, perfumers should possess strong business skills, as they often need to market their creations, work with clients, and navigate the competitive fragrance industry. Building an online presence through a website, blog, or social media can also help aspiring perfumers showcase their work and connect with potential perfumery houses.
Networking and establishing relationships with existing perfumers and scent designers can lead to mentorship opportunities or job offers in prestigious fragrance houses. Aspiring perfumers can also gain experience by working at a place that sells perfumes, educating themselves and others about different brands and scents, and then pursuing a particular brand they become fond of.
Becoming a perfumer typically requires around 10 years of study and training, including daily training on smelling and studying various ingredients, smells of life, and wearing fragrances to refine one's olfactory skills. A keen sense of smell is essential for anyone looking to become a perfumer, as they must be able to identify hundreds of different raw materials and understand how they interact to create accords and full fragrances.
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Fragrances created to accompany literary quotes
Literature and fragrance have long been collaborators, with perfumers acting as illusionists, telling stories through smell. Literary quotes have inspired many fragrances, with scent enthusiasts creating perfumes that capture the essence of a particular literary scene or theme.
Pia Long, a Finnish indie perfumer and writer based in England, explores this intersection of literature and scent in her blog, Volatile Fiction. Long has created fragrances to accompany literary quotes, such as an event at the British Library in 2018, where perfumers Tim Gage and Achille Riviello presented their creations inspired by a chosen literary quote. Long has also contributed to The Scented Letter, the magazine of the Perfume Society, the first club for perfume enthusiasts.
Another example of fragrances inspired by literature is the luxe scent created in collaboration with Wallpaper Magazine and Karl Lagerfeld, who designed the packaging. The fragrance tells the story of "a passion and a twisting plot" and aims to capture the bouquet of freshly printed books. The bottle features texts from Lagerfeld, Gunter Grass, Schoen, and Tony Chambers, and the scent includes nostalgic notes of tobacco, tea leaves, amberwood, and autumn apple.
Additionally, the medieval Welsh poem Y Gododdin inspired a perfume with aromatic materials evoking the lands of the Red Branch knights and their travels to prehistoric Scotland, including notes of smelted iron and larchwood.
These fragrances showcase how perfumers and scent enthusiasts bring literary quotes and scenes to life through carefully crafted scents, creating a multisensory experience that enhances the power of words.
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The different ways people appreciate perfumes
People appreciate perfumes in various ways, and the sense of smell is a powerful tool that can evoke emotions and memories. Perfumes can be appreciated as an art form, with their creation involving a complex balance of different scent notes and molecules. The top notes of a perfume consist of small, light molecules that evaporate quickly, while the base notes are larger, heavier molecules that evaporate slowly and can still be detected even 24 hours after application. Perfumers are often likened to illusionists or storytellers, crafting scents that evoke specific images, memories, and emotions in the wearer.
One way to appreciate perfumes is through scent schools or societies, such as the Perfume Society, where enthusiasts can delve deeper into the art of perfumery and explore different fragrances. These communities provide a platform for people to connect and share their mutual passion for scents. Additionally, some people appreciate perfumes as collectors, always on the hunt for the latest launches and limited editions. They may take pleasure in acquiring and displaying their collection, much like one would with artwork.
For others, perfumes are a means of self-expression and a way to make a statement. Choosing the right fragrance can be an extension of one's personality and style. Some people seek out unique and unusual perfumes, such as those offered by Demeter Fragrances, which include playful and shocking scents like "Playdoh" and "Gin and Tonic." Others may opt for classic and trendy fragrances from well-known brands, seeking the confidence boost that comes from wearing a scent that garners compliments.
Perfumes also have the power to transport us to different places and times. A particular fragrance can evoke memories of a treasured vacation spot, a special occasion, or a person from our past. It can be like "time travel for the senses," as described by a writer for Who What Wear. This transformative quality of perfume is what many people appreciate and seek when choosing a fragrance.
Additionally, the sense of smell is deeply connected to our emotions. Perfumes can elicit highly emotional responses and associations, even influencing our behaviour and mood. Perfumers carefully craft fragrances to create an emotional connection with the wearer, often using a combination of recognisable and novel scent notes to strike a balance between familiarity and intrigue.
Lastly, some people appreciate perfumes as a form of luxury and indulgence. They savour the experience of trying new perfumes, exploring different scent profiles, and discovering their signature scent. The ritual of applying perfume can be a self-care practice, enhancing one's sense of well-being and confidence.
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Frequently asked questions
Volatile Fiction is a personal blog by Pia Long, a Finnish indie perfumer and writer based in England.
Pia writes about her experience as a perfumer, creating fragrances, product reviews, recommendations, sales and marketing, and her favourite perfumes.
Pia views perfumers as "illusionists", telling stories through smell. She acknowledges that perfumery is not a profession that saves lives but hopes to provide a "welcome distraction" in the form of enjoyable scents.
Pia has worked her way up the ranks at Lush to become a Junior Perfumer, creating best-selling consumer products. She has also worked as a technical manager for a fragrance and flavour material supplier and as a perfumer and training manager at Orchadia Solutions, a fragrance industry consultancy.
