Anisha Riggs
The word perfume comes from the Latin per fumum, meaning by smoke, recalling the ancient practice of burning incense to create pleasant smells. The art of perfumery began in Mesopotamia, Egypt, the Indus Valley civilisation and possibly Ancient China. Today, perfume is a mixture of fragrant essential oils or aroma compounds, fixatives and solvents, usually in liquid form. An essence is an extract or concentrate obtained from a plant or other matter that retains the natural smell and flavour of their source. Essences are obtained through mechanical pressing or distillation and contain the characteristic properties of the matter in concentrated form. They are mainly used in perfumes with water and alcohol, which define the longevity of the perfume.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition | An "essence" is an extract or concentrate obtained from a plant or other matter that retains the natural smell and flavour of their source. |
| How it's obtained | Through mechanical pressing or distillation. |
| Composition | Essences contain characteristic properties of the matter in concentrated form. |
| Use | Essences are mainly used in perfumes, along with water and alcohol, which defines the longevity of the perfume. |
| Price | Perfumes vary in price depending on the concentration or strength of the essence present in it. |
| Examples | The concentration of EDT (Eau de Toilette) is 7-12%, and the aroma lasts about 6 hours. The concentration of EDP (Eau de Parfum) is 10-15%, with an aroma lasting about 8 hours. The highest concentration is that of perfume oil (Parfum is a blend of essences into the oil) with 15-25% concentration, and the aroma lasts more than 8-10 hours. |
| History | The cultivation of flowers for their perfume essence began in the 14th century and grew into a major industry in southern France. |
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What You'll Learn
The history of perfume essence
Ancient Civilizations:
The first use of perfume was in the form of incense, created by the Mesopotamians about 4,000 years ago. One of the world's first recorded chemists was a woman named Tapputi, a perfume maker mentioned in a cuneiform tablet from the 2nd millennium BCE in Mesopotamia. She distilled flowers, oils, and calamus with other aromatics, filtered them, and put them back in the still several times, laying the foundation for perfume-making techniques.
Perfume and perfumery also existed in the Indus Valley Civilization (3300 BCE - 1300 BCE), Ancient Egypt, and possibly Ancient China. The ancient Greeks are credited with creating the first liquid perfume, which was further refined by the Romans, Persians, and Arabs.
Middle Ages and Renaissance:
During the 11th and 12th centuries, returning crusaders brought floral and egg perfumes to Europe from Arabia, through trade with the Islamic world. In the 16th century, Catharina de Medici initiated the perfume industry in Europe when she left Italy to marry the French crown prince. During the Renaissance, perfumes were primarily used by royalty and the wealthy to mask body odours resulting from poor sanitary practices.
Industrialization and Modern Times:
In the 19th century, with the commercial synthesis of aroma compounds, modern perfumery was born. The development of chemistry laid the foundation for complex perfume compositions, with Chanel No.5 being the first perfume created by applying modern techniques. Today, perfumes are made up of many natural and synthetic chemicals, often referred to as "notes" or "overtones."
Throughout history, the use of perfume has been associated with mystery, fantasy, and imagination. While perfume has been used primarily to modify body scent, it has also served as protection against unpleasant smells and as a prophylactic barrier from disease. The art of perfumery has evolved over millennia, with techniques and ingredients being refined and perfected by various civilizations.
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How perfume essences are created
The creation of perfume essences is a complex process that blends art, science, and creativity. It involves the careful selection and combination of various ingredients, both natural and synthetic, to craft unique fragrances that evoke emotions and memories.
The first step in creating perfume essences is the selection of raw materials. Perfumers may choose from a wide range of natural ingredients, such as flowers, spices, woods, resins, and fruits, as well as synthetic compounds produced in laboratories. These synthetic compounds can imitate or enhance natural aromas, expanding the olfactory possibilities. The choice of ingredients depends on the desired fragrance and the perfumer's artistic vision.
Once the raw materials are selected, they undergo distillation to extract their essences. Distillation involves heating the mixture to evaporate the more volatile elements, leaving behind an essential oil rich in the desired aromas. This process requires precise control to capture the perfect essence. The extracted essence is then blended to form the "juice," the foundation of the perfume.
After distillation and blending, the perfume essence enters a maturation period. During this time, the intense aromas mellow, allowing the fragrance to develop depth and complexity. This ageing process can last from several months to years, depending on the desired outcome.
The final steps in creating perfume essences involve dilution and filtration. The essence is diluted with alcohol and a small amount of distilled water to achieve the desired concentration and intensity. The dosage of alcohol and water determines the final concentration, with higher percentages of essence resulting in a stronger fragrance. After dilution, the perfume is filtered and packaged, ready to be presented to the world.
Creating perfume essences is a delicate and intricate process that requires technical precision, artistic flair, and patience. It involves a deep understanding of the properties of various ingredients and their interactions. Through careful selection, distillation, blending, and maturation, perfumers craft unique fragrances that captivate and inspire.
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The difference between essences and perfumes
The art of perfumery has a long history, dating back to ancient civilisations like Mesopotamia, Egypt, China, and the Indus Valley. The word "perfume" comes from the Latin "perfumare," meaning "to smoke through." Today, perfumes are complex mixtures of fragrant essential oils, aroma compounds, fixatives, and solvents that give off a pleasant scent.
An "essence," on the other hand, is a more concentrated and pure form. It is an extract obtained from plants or other matter, capturing their natural smell and flavour. Essences are produced through mechanical pressing or distillation and are used as key ingredients in perfumes, combined with water and alcohol. The concentration of essence in a perfume determines its intensity, longevity, and price.
The concentration of aromatic compounds in a perfume is indicated by specific terms. For example, "Eau de Toilette" (EDT) has a lower concentration of essence, typically 7-12%, resulting in a milder scent that lasts about 6 hours. "Eau de Parfum" (EDP) has a higher concentration, usually 10-15%, with a more potent aroma that can last up to 8 hours. The highest concentration is found in "Parfum" or "Extrait" (P), with 15-25% aromatic compounds, creating an intense fragrance that can last more than 8-10 hours.
Perfumes with higher concentrations of essence tend to be more expensive and are often reserved for special occasions or formal events. They are applied to pulse points on the body, such as behind the ears, on the wrists, or inside the elbows, where extra body heat helps emit the scent. Body mists, on the other hand, are less concentrated and more affordable. They offer a subtle fragrance and are ideal for everyday use, especially for those who prefer a lighter scent.
In summary, the key difference between essences and perfumes lies in their concentration and intended use. Essences are highly concentrated extracts that serve as the foundational ingredients in perfumes. Perfumes, on the other hand, are the final products that blend these essences with other components to create a harmonious olfactory experience.
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The olfactory families that make up perfume essences
An "essence" is an extract or concentrate obtained from a plant or other matter that retains the natural smell and flavour of their source. Essences are obtained through mechanical pressing or distillation and are mainly used in perfumes with water and alcohol.
Citrus
The citrus family is one of the largest and oldest in the history of perfumery. It is characterised by fresh, vibrant, acidic, and sunny notes derived from essential oils extracted from the zest of fruits like orange, lemon, grapefruit, mandarin, yuzu, and bergamot. Perfumes in this family often have citrus top notes as they are highly volatile and provide an instant burst of fragrance.
Floral
The floral olfactory family is commonly associated with femininity, but modern perfumers have also incorporated floral notes into men's fragrances, combining them with spicier or more aromatic ingredients. This family includes perfumes with prominent floral notes such as rose, jasmine, violet, lilac, lily of the valley, narcissus, and tuberose, creating elegant and appealing compositions.
Ferns
The ferns olfactory family is named after the iconic perfume Fougère royale, which revolutionised the perfume industry in 1882. Fragrances in this family are often composed of virile and masculine notes, featuring lavender and aromatic top notes with thyme and rosemary, a floral heart, and a woody-vanilla base with oakmoss and coumarin.
Chypre
The Chypre olfactory family was established after the success of the perfume Chypre by François Coty in 1917. This family includes fragrances primarily based on oakmoss, ciste-labdanum, and bergamot accords, offering a unique and captivating scent experience.
Woody
The woody olfactory family encompasses perfumes that emphasise woody and earthy notes, often combined with other aromatic or spicy elements. This family creates a warm and natural fragrance profile, appealing to those who enjoy nature-inspired scents.
Amber
The amber olfactory family provides a warm and sensual fragrance experience. Amber notes are often combined with other olfactory families, adding depth and complexity to the overall scent.
While these seven olfactory families form the traditional classification, perfumery is a dynamic art, and new discoveries and techniques continuously expand the possibilities for fragrance creation.
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How to make perfume last longer
An essence is an extract or concentrate obtained from a plant or other matter that retains the natural smell and flavour of their source. Essences are obtained through mechanical pressing or distillation and are used in perfumes with water and alcohol, which defines the longevity of the perfume.
- Choose the right type of scent. Eau de parfum has the highest percentage of aromatic essence, at 15% to 20%, and will last longer compared to eau de cologne and eau de toilette.
- Consider the perfume's scent family. Rich, spicy fragrances with strong base notes will linger longer into the night than fresh, light scents.
- Spray the scent directly on the skin. Perfumes last longer when they can mix with your body's natural oils.
- Spritz after a shower. Perfume clings better to damp skin, so spray your fragrance on freshly washed and lightly dried skin.
- Moisturize your skin before applying perfume to create a dewy base for your fragrance to cling to.
- Apply perfume to pulse points, such as your neck, wrists, the bottom of your throat, inside your elbows, and behind your knees. These are warmer areas of the body that emit extra body heat, helping to emit the scent.
- Avoid rubbing your wrists together after applying perfume, as this can cause the scent molecules to break down faster.
- Store your perfume correctly. Keep it in a cool, dark place, away from direct sunlight and harsh temperature changes.
- Layer your scents. Combine complementary aromas to maximize the staying power of your perfume.
- Keep a travel-size bottle with you for touch-ups throughout the day.
- Avoid shaking your fragrance as it can cause the scent to degrade faster.
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