Lance Carson
Fragrances are substances with strong-smelling organic compounds that have a pleasant odour. They are added to perfumes, colognes, deodorants, shampoos, cleaning products, and even laundry detergents to make them smell better and seem more effective. However, fragrances are made up of dozens of chemicals that can have toxic effects on both our health and the environment. These chemicals are often not listed on the product label and can include phthalates, which are known endocrine disruptors, and styrene, which is linked to cancer. With the fragrance industry regulating itself, it is important for consumers to be aware of the potential risks associated with fragrance products and to choose fragrance-free options when possible.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of fragrance chemicals in use | More than 3,000 |
| Toxicity | Linked to a range of health problems, including allergies, asthma, endocrine disruption, cancer, reproductive harm, and more |
| Regulation | Self-regulated by the fragrance industry; not required to undergo FDA review before being put into use |
| Ingredient labelling | Not required to list fragrance ingredients on product labels; often simply listed as "fragrance", "perfume", "parfum", or "aroma" |
| Trade secrets | Considered trade secrets; companies are not required to disclose specific fragrance chemicals |
| Allergens | Some fragrance allergens will have to be disclosed under a new federal law, but not until at least 2025 |
| Therapeutic uses | Some fragrance products are intended for therapeutic uses, such as treating aches or relaxing muscles, and are treated as drugs under the law |
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What You'll Learn
Fragrance chemicals and health risks
Fragrances are linked to a wide range of health risks. Fragrance chemicals are rarely listed on the ingredients label as manufacturers are not required to disclose them, claiming them to be "'trade secrets'". However, we do know that some are linked to serious health problems.
Fragrance chemicals can cause a range of allergic reactions, including contact dermatitis, contact urticaria, photosensitivity, and respiratory disorders. They can also act like hormones in the human body, causing a host of health problems, including cancer, reproductive and developmental toxicity, endocrine disruption, birth defects, and respiratory problems. For example, phthalates, commonly found in fragrances, are linked to endocrine disruption, reproductive toxicity, and respiratory problems.
In addition, fragrance chemicals can be harmful to the environment. The chemical vapors in fragrances, known as volatile organic compounds (VOCs), have been linked to ozone pollution and the creation of fine particulates. This can negatively impact indoor air quality and increase personal exposure to potential health risks.
To avoid potential health risks, consumers can look for products that are fragrance-free or carefully check the ingredient list. The Environmental Working Group advises consumers to read the word "fragrance" or "parfum" and understand that it means "hidden chemicals".
While the fragrance industry has been trusted to "'self-regulate'" through its Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), their findings and methods of analysis are kept secret, preventing verification by those outside the industry. This lack of transparency and regulation in the fragrance industry has led to growing concerns about the potential health risks associated with exposure to fragrance chemicals.
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Fragrance in cosmetics
Fragrance is an essential component of cosmetics, enhancing the sensory experience of using these products. The scent of a cosmetic product is often a determining factor in the final selection process for consumers. However, fragrances are also known to be one of the most common allergens found in skincare and other beauty or personal care products.
Natural vs Synthetic Fragrances
Natural fragrances are derived from natural sources, such as plants, while synthetic fragrances are man-made chemical compounds that mimic natural fragrances. Synthetic fragrances may cause more adverse effects than natural fragrances due to undisclosed blends of chemical fragrances and artificial preservatives. According to FDA and EU cosmetic regulations, the exact ingredients of a fragrance can remain undisclosed to protect trade secrets, which makes it difficult for consumers to know if a product is safe for them.
Benefits of Fragrance in Cosmetics
Fragrances in cosmetics can improve the user experience and serve purposes beyond aroma, such as masking unpleasant odors and enhancing product appeal. Fragrances can evoke specific emotions and moods, with scents like lavender promoting relaxation and citrus scents energizing and uplifting. A pleasant scent can transform the application of cosmetics into a luxurious and enjoyable experience, improving perceptions of the product's efficacy and quality.
Risks of Fragrance in Cosmetics
The main concern with fragrances in cosmetics is the lack of transparency regarding ingredients. When "fragrance" or "parfum" is listed in a cosmetic's ingredients, it can cover potentially hundreds of hidden ingredients, including endocrine disruptors and potential allergens. Some fragrances can cause allergic reactions or sensitivities, such as rashes, stinging, and burning when exposed to sunlight.
Regulation of Fragrances in Cosmetics
Fragrance ingredients in cosmetics must meet the same safety requirements as other cosmetic ingredients. While FDA approval is not required before they go to market, companies are responsible for ensuring their products are safe and properly labelled. The safety of fragrance ingredients is assessed by the International Fragrance Association (IFRA), which provides critical guidance to establish product safety.
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Toxic chemicals in fragrance
The fragrance industry uses a combination of chemicals to give each perfume or cologne its distinct scent. These chemicals are often listed on product labels as simply "fragrance", "perfume", "parfum", or "aroma", and are protected as trade secrets. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) lists almost 3,059 different chemicals used in fragrance formulations, some of which are linked to serious health problems.
Many fragrance materials can cause sensitization and allergies, respiratory diseases, and irritation, and can contain carcinogens, endocrine disruptors, neurotoxic chemicals, and environmental toxicants. For example, acetaldehyde can affect a person's kidney, reproductive system, nervous system, and respiratory system. Benzophenone, which is linked to endocrine disruption and organ system toxicity, is also listed as a carcinogen. Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT) irritates the skin and eyes and affects growth rate, and there is evidence that it could also affect the lungs. Benzyl salicylate is a fragrance allergen and a potential endocrine disruptor.
Other toxic chemicals found in fragrances include phthalates, which are endocrine disruptors and can be found in the blood of most Americans, with the greatest quantities found in women. Synthetic musks, such as tonalide and galaxolide, induce brain cell degeneration, which can lead to degenerative disorders such as Parkinson's disease.
In addition to the health risks, fragrance chemicals also pose environmental risks. Chemical vapors in fragrance, called volatile organic compounds, can cause ozone pollution and form fine particulates. Synthetic musks end up in wastewater, drinking water, soil, and indoor air, and can bioaccumulate in the fatty tissue of aquatic wildlife, travelling through the food chain into salmon and shrimp.
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Fragrance as a masking agent
Fragrances are designed to create a pleasant smell, but masking fragrances are designed to conceal a bad smell and create a neutral smell. They are commonly used in the skincare world, where certain beneficial ingredients have an unpleasant odour. For example, urea, sulfur/sulfa, and hydrolyzed collagen may have a foul odour, but a masking fragrance is used to make these ingredients more pleasant to apply and wear.
Masking fragrances are not simply an additional scent layered on top of a foul odour. Instead, it is often a chemical combination that allows the foul odour to subside or appear neutral. The goal of a masking fragrance is for a product to appear unscented. Thus, a product labelled as "fragrance-free" may not necessarily be free of fragrance, but rather smell-free.
Masking agents are used to reduce or mask the base odour or aroma of a product. They are designed to cover the malodour and are strictly functional, creating an 'odour neutral' product. They are often used to mask the odour of natural bases with protein and herbal extracts.
Some commonly used raw materials have an unpleasant odour that is covered by masking agents to allow regular everyday use. For example, essential oils such as eucalyptus, lavender, and lemon have an overpowering scent that may be masked to make the product more appealing to consumers.
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Fragrance regulation
In addition to IFRA, regional regulatory bodies play a significant role in fragrance regulation. In the European Union (EU), Regulation (EC) No 1272/2008 addresses the classification, labelling, and packaging of substances and mixtures, while Regulation (EC) No 1907/2006 focuses on the Registration, Evaluation, Authorisation, and restriction of Chemicals. The EU's cosmetic regulation, Regulation (EC) No 1223/2009, is particularly relevant to the fragrance industry, mandating the listing of ingredients on cosmetic product packaging. However, there have been ongoing concerns about potential allergens not identified in this regulation, leading to updates to the EU allergen list in 2023.
The United States (US) fragrance industry also considers EU cosmetic allergens when establishing its own regulations. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) is tasked with proposing fragrance allergens for the mandatory allergen labelling rule by June 29, 2024. It is expected that the US allergen list will closely resemble that of the EU.
In the United Kingdom (UK), despite no longer being an EU member, fragrance regulations generally follow EU requirements. The UK is adopting updated fragrance allergen lists and has called for data on nanomaterial safety in cosmetics. IFRA UK, the UK branch of IFRA, aims to keep members informed about legislative changes and ensure the competitiveness of the UK fragrance industry in the global market.
Overall, fragrance regulation is a complex and dynamic field, with ongoing updates and amendments to ensure consumer safety and maintain global competitiveness. By adhering to IFRA Standards and regional regulatory requirements, the fragrance industry strives to provide consumers with safe and enjoyable fragranced products.
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Frequently asked questions
Fragrances are substances with strong-smelling organic compounds that have characteristic, pleasant odors. They are added to products to improve their smell or give the perception of improved performance.
Fragrances are made from natural and synthetic ingredients. Natural fragrances are derived from natural sources, often plants, while synthetic fragrances are made from ingredients with a scent and/or chemical composition not found in nature. The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) has a list of over 3,000 ingredients used as fragrance compounds.
Fragrances are linked to a range of health risks, including allergies, asthma, endocrine disruption, cancer, and reproductive harm. They can also cause environmental harm, such as ozone pollution and the creation of fine particulates. However, it's important to note that fragrances are generally safe for most individuals, and manufacturers are legally responsible for ensuring their products are safe.
Fragrance ingredients are often not listed individually on product labels. Instead, they are simply listed as "fragrance," "perfume," "parfum," or "aroma." This is because fragrance recipes are considered trade secrets, and manufacturers are not required to disclose their specific ingredients. However, the International Fragrance Association (IFRA) and The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) provide support and guidance on fragrance safety.
