
Helena Rubinstein's Herbessence fragrance was a Chypre perfume for women launched in 1962. It had a strong scent with notes of patchouli, vanilla, and spice. The production of this fragrance has since been discontinued, but it remains a memorable scent for many, with some seeking to purchase it online.
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What You'll Learn

Helena Rubinstein: a preeminent woman in the beauty industry
Helena Rubinstein was a cosmetics entrepreneur and a pioneer of the modern beauty industry. In the early 20th century, she defied gender, class, and cultural expectations to establish herself as a visionary leader and one of the first global entrepreneurs in the beauty industry. Her namesake luxury cosmetics brand is currently valued at over $1 billion.
Born the eldest of eight daughters to Polish Jews, Rubinstein refused an arranged marriage and emigrated from Poland to Australia in 1896 with no money and little knowledge of the English language. Her stylish clothes and complexion soon gained attention, and she found buyers for the jars of beauty cream she had brought with her. She began working as a waitress at the Winter Garden tearooms in Melbourne, where she met an admirer who funded the launch of her first product, Crème Valaze.
Rubinstein opened her first salon in Melbourne, selling glamour as a science to customers whose skin was "diagnosed" and given a "prescription". She soon expanded to Sydney, and within five years, her Australian operations were profitable enough to finance a Salon de Beauté Valaze in London. This marked the formation of one of the world's first cosmetic companies.
In 1928, she sold the American business to Lehman Brothers for $7.3 million ($127 million in 2022). However, after the Great Depression, she bought back the devalued stock for less than $1 million and eventually increased the company's value to $100 million. She established salons and outlets in several US cities, including a spa at 715 Fifth Avenue that featured a restaurant, a gymnasium, and rugs designed by painter Joan Miró. Rubinstein also commissioned artist Salvador Dalí to design a powder compact and paint a portrait of her in 1943.
Throughout her career, Rubinstein was known for her innovative marketing strategies, such as introducing the concept of 'problem' skin types and donning a lab coat in advertisements to add a pseudo-scientific element to her brand. She understood the power of advertising and knew how to manipulate consumers' status anxiety. Her success and impact on global beauty standards have been recognized by Harvard Business School professor Geoff Jones, who explored her journey and legacy in a case study titled "Helena Rubenstein: Making Up The Modern Woman."
In addition to her business accomplishments, Rubinstein was also philanthropic. In 1953, she established the Helena Rubinstein Foundation to provide funding to organizations specializing in health, medical research, and rehabilitation. She also used her wealth to support charitable institutions in education, art, and health.
Rubinstein passed away on April 1, 1965, of natural causes, leaving behind a lasting legacy in the beauty industry. Her company, Helena Rubinstein Inc., was sold to Colgate-Palmolive in 1973 and later acquired by L'Oréal in 1984.
One of Rubinstein's notable fragrances was Herbessence, a Chypre perfume launched in 1962. While it is no longer in production, it is still remembered and sought after by those who loved its unique scent.
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Herbessence: a chypre fragrance with vanilla and patchouli
Herbessence by Helena Rubinstein is a Chypre fragrance for women that was launched in 1962. It was a green chypre perfume with a strong presence of patchouli, vanilla, and spices. The scent was described as powdery and spicy with oriental notes, similar to Opium, Youth Dew, and Cinnabar. It was well-loved by many and considered a memorable and special fragrance.
Helena Rubinstein was a renowned entrepreneur in the beauty industry, nicknamed "the empress of beauty" by Jean Cocteau. She founded her eponymous company, which was later bought by L'Oréal in 1984. Rubinstein was known for her desire to unite science and beauty and her understanding of women. Her fragrances were created in collaboration with notable perfumers such as Norbert Bijaoui, Jean Kerleo, Carlos Benaïm, and Dominique Ropion.
Unfortunately, Herbessence by Helena Rubinstein seems to have been discontinued, as some buyers have mentioned that they are no longer able to find it. The fragrance was previously available through Direct Cosmetics, based in Leeds, UK, which sold it at a low price. However, some people have mentioned finding it on eBay, although the prices tend to be high, and the availability is mostly limited to the USA.
The lasting power of Herbessence was rated 3.64 out of 5, and the sillage was rated 2.67 out of 4. While the name Herbessence might suggest a more herbal or green fragrance, it was described as more powdery and spicy with a touch of sweetness. It lacked the typical bite of patchouli due to the balancing effect of the vanilla and other notes.
Overall, Herbessence by Helena Rubinstein was a beloved fragrance that left a lasting impression on those who wore it. Its unique blend of patchouli, vanilla, and spices created a strong and pungent scent that grabbed the attention of many. While it may no longer be in production, it remains a memorable part of the Helena Rubinstein fragrance collection.
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The scent: described as spicy, strong, and powdery
The scent of Helena Rubinstein's Herbessence fragrance is described as spicy, strong, and powdery. It is a Chypre fragrance, which is typically characterised by a blend of citrus, moss, and woody notes. This particular fragrance is described as having strong patchouli, vanilla, and woody notes, creating a spicy Oriental scent. One reviewer describes it as having a "bite" to it, which is often associated with patchouli. Another reviewer describes it as having a "pungency" to it, which is in line with the strong and spicy description.
The fragrance is also said to have a powdery sweetness, which may come from the vanilla or other buttery notes. This sweetness is described as being reminiscent of Gingham by Innoxa. The spiciness of the fragrance is also said to be similar to that of Youth Dew and Cinnabar. Overall, the scent is described as being well-balanced and mellow, with a unique quality that makes it stand out from other fragrances.
One reviewer describes the scent as "grabbing" them quickly, highlighting the strength and uniqueness of the fragrance. The same reviewer also mentions that the fragrance brought them a lot of male attention, which they enjoyed. This review highlights the impact and memorability of the scent, which is a testament to its strength and spiciness.
The fragrance was released in 1962 and has since been discontinued. However, it still has a dedicated following, with people seeking it out on eBay and other online platforms. The discontinuation of the fragrance has left a void for those who loved it, as it was a memorable and distinctive scent.
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Discontinuation: no longer in production, but available on eBay
Helena Rubinstein's Herbessence fragrance is no longer in production. However, you can still purchase it on eBay, although it seems to only exist in the USA. The price is often high, and it is unclear whether the product is still usable or not. One eBay listing describes the scent as "powdery, spicy oriental/chypre with elements of Youth Dew and Cinnabar".
The fragrance was launched in 1962 and is described as a green chypre perfume for women. It contains notes of patchouli, vanilla, and something buttery. One reviewer describes it as not herbal and not particularly green. The scent is strong and pungent, with a spicy, oriental character.
Helena Rubinstein was one of the preeminent women in the beauty industry, nicknamed "the empress of beauty" by Jean Cocteau. She founded her eponymous company, which was later bought by L’Oréal in 1984. Rubinstein was known for her desire to "unite science and beauty" and her understanding of women.
Those who have managed to repurchase the fragrance on eBay reminisce about the attention they received while wearing it. One reviewer mentions that they "seemed to get a lot of male attention". Another mentions that the fragrance is memorable and special.
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Similar fragrances: Apple Blossom, Opium, Youth Dew, and Cinnabar
Apple Blossom, Opium, Youth Dew, and Cinnabar are all fragrances with similar notes to Helena Rubinstein's Herbessence. Herbessence was a Chypre fragrance for women, launched in 1962. It featured patchouli, vanilla, and woody notes, with a strong, spicy oriental character.
Apple Blossom, another fragrance by Helena Rubinstein, is also a strong, spicy oriental scent with patchouli and vanilla notes. This fragrance, however, is likely more well-known than Herbessence. Apple Blossom is also a fragrance by Demeter, which features a unique blend of exotic ingredients like Amber, Blood Orange, and Vanilla Orchid petals, creating a deep and sensual scent.
Opium, by YSL, is a sensual fragrance with a mix of bergamot notes. It is a strong, oriental scent, similar to Herbessence, but with its own unique twist.
Youth Dew by Estée Lauder, is a captivating fragrance with opulent flowers, rich spices, and precious woods. It has been described as one of the sexiest fragrances ever created, with a timeless and sensual appeal. This fragrance, initially launched as a bath oil in 1953, is another strong, oriental scent with similarities to Herbessence.
Cinnabar, while this writer could not find an exact fragrance match, is likely a well-known spicy oriental fragrance, with woody notes, similar to the other fragrances mentioned and Herbessence.
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Frequently asked questions
Herbessence is a Chypre fragrance for women that was launched in 1962.
Herbessence is described as a "powdery, spicy oriental/chypre" with elements of Youth Dew and Cinnabar. It contains notes of patchouli, vanilla, and woods.
It appears that Herbessence has been discontinued. However, some people have reported finding it on eBay, although the prices tend to be high.
Some similar fragrances include Opium, Youth Dew, Cinnabar, and Apple Blossom by Helena Rubinstein.
Other popular fragrances by Helena Rubinstein include Courant, Blazer, and White Magnolias.


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