Atelier Cologne: What's Behind The Beloved Fragrance Brand's Evolution?

In February 2022, cult fragrance brand Atelier Cologne announced it would be withdrawing from the North American market, with operations in the US and Canada ceasing by mid-March. The brand, which was bought by L'Oreal in 2016, said it was entering a new chapter and would be crafting more modern and elevated perfumes to inspire the next generation of perfume enthusiasts. The decision left loyal customers scrambling to secure their favourite scents, with the brand offering a 40% discount sitewide. Atelier Cologne has since announced a relaunch in China, with a new retail environment and image.

Atelier Cologne's exit from the US and Canada

The decision to leave the North American market was met with dismay and confusion, with some customers speculating about potential issues with US regulations or ingredients. However, the brand's communication pointed to a strategic shift. In an email to customers, Atelier Cologne cited the desire to "craft even more modern and elevated perfumes to inspire the next generation of perfume enthusiasts" as the reason for its exit. The brand also mentioned that it would "come back with a completely new Atelier Cologne", hinting at a possible rebrand and return to the region.

The company's founders, Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervase, first launched Atelier Cologne in 2009, introducing a new genre of fragrance known as "Cologne absolue". This type of fragrance built upon the traditional citrus base of cologne while incorporating non-citrus notes to create a more complex, three-dimensional scent. Over the years, Atelier Cologne gained a dedicated following, with customers in North America able to purchase their products through retailers like Sephora, as well as the brand's own stores in New York and Toronto.

However, in 2016, Atelier Cologne was acquired by L'Oréal, and some observers have speculated that this change in ownership may have contributed to the brand's exit from the US and Canadian markets. It is speculated that L'Oréal may have prioritised profit over the brand's original vision, leading to cutbacks and ultimately, the decision to leave North America.

Following the exit, customers in the US and Canada can still find Atelier Cologne products through online resellers and auction sites, although the brand's own website and physical stores in these regions are no longer operational.

The brand's relaunch in China

Atelier Cologne is set to relaunch in China's high-end perfumery market, with reworked fragrances, retail environment and image. The next generation of the brand will be revealed in mid-March in Shanghai's IFC mall, Beijing's SKP mall, and on Tmall. The brand's fragrances, retail environment, and image have all been reworked.

The relaunch is described by brand executives as "scented art crafted from nature". The name "Atelier Cologne Paris" and this new identity played key roles in the repositioning. Atelier Cologne's global president, Sandrine Groslier, said that they "wanted first to reinvent the spirit of 'atelier' around two notions that are very important," with the first being craftsmanship. Ateliers are also where artists work and collaborate, so the brand partnered with them on various aspects of the revamp.

The brand partnered with Olivier Pascalie, who helped redefine the flacon with thicker glass and geometric details to capture and reflect light. The back of the flacon features a swirly, embossed pattern, and matte brass decorates the bottle caps and the scents' labels. Groslier said that "all the inspiration for the bottle comes from art — Art Nouveau," referring to the artistic movement at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries that elevated nature to an art form.

Atelier Cologne also collaborated with two Shanghai-based Chinese retail designers from Chaos Programme on the brand's new store environment, which features a central fragrance organ where people can discover the scents. Groslier added that they "want to inspire and educate" about what perfumery and fragrance are today.

The bottle and retail spaces were designed with curvy shapes and Atelier Cologne's signature teal blue, including marble in the stores and the perfume's outer packaging. Wood and brass elements and artists' tools are also included in the design. Personalization services will include engraving on leather cases and pouches, which has always been a part of the brand's offerings.

Cologne, the fresh and citrusy scent that is a bedrock of the perfume industry, remains at the core of Atelier Cologne. Groslier said that the brand has a "unique heritage" because, from day one, they put colognes back on the map. Atelier Cologne's founders, Sylvie Ganter-Cervasel and Christophe Cervasel, turned the traditional olfactive pyramid upside down to make colognes into high perfumery. They wanted to bring poetry and luxury to the world of cologne, which dovetails with the brand's introduction of more sophisticated and long-lasting perfumes.

Atelier Cologne created its own proprietary cologne, "colognade", which is now at the heart of the brand's 18 fragrances. It is based on traditional cologne's savoir-faire from the 17th century mixed with today's innovations. The brand reinvented the complexity of the formulation and increased the concentration of essential oils to make the scent more powerful and give more trail. Woody and ambery base notes were added to achieve this effect.

Nature continues to inspire Atelier Cologne, but in a very artistic way. It's not just about natural ingredients but also about how they craft their ingredients and innovate in the extraction and sourcing processes. Atelier Cologne's scent ingredients have long had mood-boosting and well-being attributes, which are more significant for consumers post-pandemic. For example, lemon zest is astringent, petitgrain is relaxing, and thyme has antiseptic qualities.

The brand's fragrances are divided into two families: Absolue and Rare. Absolue has a high concentration of essential oils and traditional cologne ingredients such as citrus. The collection includes eaux de parfums like Oolang Infini and Orange Sanguine. The Rare line blends noble and uncommon olfactive ingredients, such as Damask rose, guaiac wood, and oud wood notes found in Gaïac Eternel and Rose Cuirée.

While Paris remains central to Atelier Cologne's identity, China, where super-premium fragrance sales are flying, is to become the brand's prime market. That perfume category in China already generates 36% of the country's overall fragrance market and 22% of the world's total perfume business. In three years, it is expected to reach 40% of total fragrance sales globally, according to L'Oréal. Groslier said that Atelier Cologne is a brand they want to "reposition clearly on that market of very luxurious, premium fragrances," and that the "reinvention of niche fragrances was clearly initiated by the young, edgy consumers in China."

The future of the perfume brand

Atelier Cologne's future looks bright, with the brand relaunching in China and expanding into North Asia. The company has reworked its fragrances, retail environment, and image, aiming for a more modern and luxurious appeal. The new line, called "Atelier Cologne Paris", emphasizes craftsmanship and collaboration with artists, featuring thicker glass bottles, matte brass details, and curvy shapes in their signature teal blue colour.

The brand's global president, Sandrine Groslier, stated that the new line will focus on creating more sophisticated and long-lasting perfumes, with woody and amber base notes added to their traditional cologne savoir-faire. The brand's founders, Sylvie Ganter-Cervasel and Christophe Cervasel, turned the traditional olfactive pyramid upside down to make colognes into high perfumery, bringing poetry and luxury to the world of cologne.

The new fragrances will be divided into two families: Absolue, with a high concentration of essential oils and traditional cologne ingredients such as citrus, and the Rare line, which blends noble and uncommon olfactory ingredients such as Damask rose, guaiac wood, and oud wood notes. The brand's new retail format will include a central fragrance organ for customers to discover the scents, with plans to hold masterclasses in a fragrance academy to educate in-store experts and end-consumers.

Atelier Cologne's future strategy seems to be focused on elevating the brand's image and desirability, targeting the market for very luxurious and premium fragrances. With China as its prime market, the company aims to tap into the growing demand for super-premium fragrances in the country, which already generates 36% of China's overall fragrance market and is expected to reach 40% of total fragrance sales globally within three years.

While the brand has exited the North American market, there are hints of a possible return, with the duration of their absence currently undetermined. In the meantime, loyal customers in the US and Canada are left scrambling to secure their favourite scents, taking advantage of the brand's exit sale offering discounts of up to 40% on their website and at Sephora.

The impact on loyal customers

The impact of Atelier Cologne's exit from the North American market left a trail of dismay and panic among its loyal customers. The brand's departure was abrupt and unexpected, with customers scrambling to secure their favourite scents before the shutdown. The decision to leave the region was met with disappointment, with some customers expressing their sadness and frustration at no longer being able to access the brand's products easily.

Atelier Cologne's exit from North America was announced via an email to customers in February 2022, stating that the brand would be "entering a new chapter" and focusing on creating more modern and elevated perfumes. The email also mentioned a possible return to the region, with founders Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervase planning to "come back with a completely new Atelier Cologne." This hint of a rebrand and a potential comeback provided some solace to loyal customers.

The brand's departure from the region was likely influenced by its acquisition by L'Oréal in 2016. Some customers speculated that L'Oréal's involvement may have contributed to Atelier Cologne's financial decisions and cutbacks. The brand's focus on the European and Asian markets, particularly the high-end perfumery market in China, indicated a shift in strategy.

Overall, the impact on loyal customers was a mix of disappointment, frustration, and understanding of the brand's strategic decisions. The exit from North America created a sense of loss for customers who had come to love Atelier Cologne's unique offerings, and many hoped for a potential return or the availability of the brand's products through alternative channels.

The role of L'Oreal in Atelier Cologne's changes

L'Oréal acquired Atelier Cologne in 2016, adding the niche perfume brand to its portfolio of 32 diverse brands. Atelier Cologne was founded in 2009 by Sylvie Ganter and Christophe Cervasel, and specialised in creating ""Colognes Absolues", a new genre of fragrance that blends citrus notes with the finest natural raw materials.

Following the acquisition, Atelier Cologne became part of L'Oréal Luxe, which includes other exclusive perfume collections such as Armani Privé, Le Vestiaire des Parfums by Yves Saint Laurent, and Maison Lancôme. L'Oréal's expertise in the beauty industry and its global presence across all distribution networks were expected to contribute to the growth of Atelier Cologne.

However, in 2022, Atelier Cologne made the decision to exit the North American market, shutting down its online and physical stores in the United States and Canada. This move sparked disappointment among loyal customers and sparked speculation about the reasons behind it. Some customers received an email from Atelier Cologne hinting at a rebrand and a possible return to the region.

The role of L'Oréal in Atelier Cologne's changes is not entirely clear, but some customers speculated that L'Oréal's focus on revenue and corporate structure might have contributed to Atelier Cologne's decision to leave the North American market. It is important to note that L'Oréal has not provided an official statement regarding the speculation.

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