Seamus Hammond
The 19th century saw a revolution in the world of fragrances, with the emergence of synthetic fragrances and the shift in the use of perfume from a curative remedy to a hygiene and beauty product. Prior to the mid-1800s, fragrances in the United States were typically in the form of toilet waters, which were single-note fragrances diluted with water or alcohol. However, by the end of the century, the influence of European fragrance houses, particularly those from France, led to the rise of luxury perfumes in America. These perfumes were often heavier and more complex, incorporating animalic ingredients such as musk and ambergris. The development of synthetic fragrances also made perfumes more accessible to a wider range of people, including Victorian women who had a variety of choices when it came to selecting perfumes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fragrance type | Chypre, woody, oriental, floral, citrus, sweet, spicy, milky |
| Consistency | Alcohol-based, oil-based, water-based, wax-based |
| Container | Glass vials |
| Fragrance origin | Natural, synthetic |
| Fragrance notes | Musk, civet, ambergris, bergamot, jasmine, rose, lavender, violet, lemon, rosemary, thyme, marjoram, cloves, nutmeg, anise oil, bitter almond, heliotropin, vanillin, coumarin |
| Fragrance purpose | Remedial, hygiene, beauty |
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What You'll Learn
Perfume was a luxury product and status symbol
Perfume has long been considered a luxury product and status symbol. In the 19th century, perfume was predominantly enjoyed by the wealthy, with the masses wearing light floral fragrances. Perfume was seen as a symbol of high society and the upper class, with intricate and complex scents setting the wealthy apart.
In the early 19th century, perfume was considered a luxury product, especially those from France, and was often imported from Europe to the United States. The French considered perfume an art form, and it was no longer sold in pharmacies as it had been before. Perfume was also heavily associated with the court of Louis XVI, the splendour of the monarchy, and the opulence of the upper class.
The 19th century saw the emergence of American perfumers, who often used European names to capitalise on the association between Europe and luxury perfumes. These perfumers created elaborate bottles to house their fragrances, with some bottles being worth more than the liquid itself. Perfume was also heavily marketed towards women, with Victorian ladies having a wide variety of choices when it came to purchasing perfumes.
During this time, the creation of synthetic fragrances made perfumes more accessible to a wider range of women. Wealthy ladies, however, continued to demand more complex and natural perfumes, which were often more expensive due to their heavier ingredients. These ingredients included musk, ambergris, and civet—animal essences that were considered more luxurious than botanical scents.
The use of perfume was also not limited to just the body. In the 19th century, anything that could hold a scent was perfumed, from gloves and rouge to hair powder and clothing. Perfume was also added to cosmetics, such as hair pomade or lip salve, and was even drunk as a remedy or tonic. The act of gifting or sending perfumed items, such as gloves, was also common.
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Floral fragrances were popular
During the early to mid-Victorian era, fragrances were delicate and floral, with scents like jasmine, lavender, roses, and honeysuckle. Aromatic herbs were also used, including marjoram, thyme, rosemary, and cloves, which gave a carnation-like scent. The Victorians had a deep love for violets, with violet scents being popular in toiletries. Queen Victoria wore a heady scent called 'Fleurs de Bulgarie' by Creed throughout her reign, which featured Bulgarian rose, musk, ambergris, and bergamot.
The 19th century also saw the emergence of synthetic fragrances, with perfumers creating fragrances with intriguing names. For example, in 1889, Aimé Guerlain created the legendary 'Jicky' with a hint of animal scent that shocked and surprised. The synthesis of new molecules and the emergence of American perfumers, capitalising on the association between Europe and luxury perfumes, further contributed to the popularity of floral fragrances.
The luxury status of perfumes, particularly French ones, made them desirable to the wealthy, setting them apart from the masses wearing light floral fragrances. The personalisation of scents and wider accessibility due to the burgeoning middle class and technological advancements also increased the popularity of floral fragrances during this time.
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Single-note fragrances were common
Single-note fragrances, or "toilet waters", were common in the 19th century, particularly in the United States before the mid-to-late 1800s. These fragrances were usually sold in pharmacies and were diluted with distilled water or alcohol. They were often added to cosmetics and medications. Single-scent perfumes were also popular in Victorian times, with lavender being a favourite among the wider female population. It was used to scent everything from hair products and cosmetics to soaps and water.
However, by the 1890s, single-note fragrances were giving way to complex perfumes made of eight or twelve different extracts. These expensive, late-Victorian perfumes frequently contained spice oils and animal essences, such as musk, ambergris, and civet. These heavier fragrances were longer-lasting than botanical scents.
The 19th century saw the emergence of American perfumers, who often gave their fragrances European names to capitalise on the association between Europe and luxury perfumes. For example, E.W. Hoyt of Lowell called his first perfume "Hoyt's German Cologne", despite it having nothing to do with Germany. Perfume was considered a luxury product in Europe, particularly in France, and was not relegated to being sold in pharmacies.
The beginning of the 19th century also saw the emergence of synthetic fragrances, which made perfumes more accessible to the wider population. Researchers began isolating interesting olfactory molecules in nature and creating synthetic ingredients from scratch. This led to the creation of new fragrances such as coumarin, vanillin, artificial musk, aldehydes, ionones, and heliotropin. These molecules were quickly adopted by famous perfumers such as Guerlain, who created the famous Jicky fragrance with its vanillin scent.
In summary, while single-note fragrances were common in the 19th century, particularly in the United States and among the wider Victorian female population, the advent of synthetic fragrances and the growing demand for complex perfumes led to a shift towards more elaborate and luxurious fragrances by the end of the century.
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Synthetic fragrances were introduced
The 19th century saw a revolution in the world of perfumery with the introduction of synthetic fragrances. Prior to this, fragrances usually came in the form of "toilet waters", which were single-note fragrances diluted with distilled water or alcohol, and sold in pharmacies.
At the beginning of the 19th century, researchers began isolating interesting olfactory molecules in nature and creating synthetic ingredients from scratch. This led to the creation of new fragrances such as coumarin, vanillin, artificial musk, aldehydes, ionones, and heliotropin. These synthetic molecules were quickly adopted by prominent perfumers such as Guerlain, who created the famous Jicky fragrance with its vanillin scent. The emergence of synthetic fragrances democratized the perfumery industry, making perfumes more accessible and affordable to the general public.
The synthesis of fragrances also marked a shift in the perception and use of perfumes. In the early 19th century, some dictionaries still referred to the medicinal uses of perfumes, but by the mid-19th century, perfumes were increasingly sought after for their refined and luxurious scents. The association of perfume with luxury and refinement, particularly in Paris, further contributed to its popularity.
The introduction of synthetic fragrances also led to a change in the composition of perfumes. By the 1890s, single-scent perfumes were giving way to complex blends of eight or twelve different extracts, sold in decorative glass vials. Wealthy individuals, wishing to distinguish themselves from the lower classes, demanded even more intricate perfumes that combined natural and synthetic ingredients. This resulted in the creation of fragrances with shocking and unexpected hints of animalic notes, such as musk, civet, and ambergris.
The availability of synthetic ingredients also allowed perfumers to create fragrances with more consistent compositions. For example, the first synthetic jasmine and rose introduced in 1895 were designed to be reliable and always of the same composition, ensuring that the fragrance did not become cloudy or separate in cold temperatures. The ability to create consistent and stable fragrances further enhanced the appeal of synthetic ingredients in perfumery.
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Fragrances were applied to clothes and accessories
In the 1800s, fragrances were applied to clothes and accessories in a variety of ways, with scent playing a significant role in people's daily lives. The application of perfume to fabrics and garments was common, and fragrances were also used to scent accessories such as gloves, handkerchiefs, and even hair powder or rouge.
During the early 19th century, fragrances were often in the form of "toilet waters," which were single-note scents diluted with distilled water or alcohol. These toilet waters were typically sold in pharmacies and were used to mask body odours. As the century progressed, perfume became increasingly associated with luxury and refinement, especially in France and among the wealthy. The importation of perfumes from Europe, particularly France, contributed to this shift.
The application of fragrances to clothing and accessories was influenced by the type of perfume available at the time. Dry perfumes, for example, were popular at the beginning of the century and were often integrated into wigs and clothing to hide unpleasant body odours. These dry perfumes came in powder form and were sold in sachets, making them convenient for scenting fabrics.
Another way fragrances were applied to clothes and accessories was through the use of scent pendants. These pendants were popular, especially for those who had to navigate the unpleasant smells of the streets. A little scent on a handkerchief or a locket at the end of a chain could provide a pleasant aroma to counteract the odours of the outside environment.
In addition to scenting their clothes and accessories, people in the 1800s also paid attention to the fragrances they applied directly to their bodies. Perfumed gloves, for instance, were not just worn on the hands but could also be tucked into waist sashes and hatbands. The scent of a lady's glove could convey a delicate message of affection, similar to sending a perfumed love letter.
The 19th century also saw advancements in perfumery, with the discovery of new aroma compounds and the development of synthetic fragrances. These innovations expanded the range of scents available and made perfumes more accessible to a wider range of people. By the end of the century, complex perfumes containing multiple extracts and spice oils, such as musk, ambergris, and civet, became fashionable among the wealthy.
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Frequently asked questions
In the 1800s, fragrances were transitioning from being used as a remedy to becoming a hygiene and beauty product. Fragrances ranged from delicate and floral to heavier, complex perfumes. Some popular floral fragrances included Bulgarian rose, jasmine, honeysuckle, and lavender. Heavier perfumes used animalic ingredients like musk, civet, and ambergris.
In the early 1800s, fragrances usually came in the form of "toilet waters", which were single-note fragrances diluted with distilled water or alcohol. Perfume was also incorporated into cosmetic products like hair pomade or lip salve. Perfume was also applied to scent handkerchiefs, gloves, and clothing.
Creed was a popular British perfume house in the 1800s, with Queen Victoria wearing their 'Fleurs de Bulgarie' throughout her reign. Grossmith was another well-known British perfume house, winning royal warrants from Queen Alexandra and the royal courts of Spain and Greece.
In the 1800s, fragrances were often sold in pharmacies and marketed as medicines. However, by the end of the century, perfume was increasingly associated with luxury and refinement, particularly those from France. Perfumers created a sense of luxury by using elaborate bottles, some of which were worth more than the liquid itself.
