Seamus Hammond
Choosing a fragrance can be a stressful experience, but understanding the composition of a perfume can help you find your signature scent. The first step is to identify the different notes of a fragrance, which are classified as top, middle, and base notes. Top notes are the first impression of a fragrance, while the middle notes are the heart of the scent, and the base notes are what is left at the end and are the longest-lasting. Another way to classify fragrances is by their scent families, which include fresh green fragrances, floral fragrances, oriental fragrances, and woody fragrances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Notes | Top, middle, and base |
| Top notes | Opening notes that evaporate quickly |
| Middle notes | Heart notes that appear once the top notes have disappeared |
| Base notes | The smell that you remember the most |
| Olfactive families | A way to classify how a perfume smells rather than what it contains |
| Scent families | Floral, Oriental, Woody, Fresh green, etc. |
| Floral fragrances | Sweet and flowery, including roses, jasmine, lilies, and peonies |
| Oriental fragrances | Warm, sweet, and spicy, including cardamom, cinnamon, and vanilla |
| Woody fragrances | Earthy, sweet, smoky, and leathery, including cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, and amber |
| Fresh green fragrances | Herbal and leafy, including lavender, rosemary, or basil |
| Body chemistry | How a perfume interacts with your skin |
| Strength | Eau de Parfum (EDP) and Eau de Toilette (EDT) |
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What You'll Learn
How does my body chemistry affect my fragrance?
Body chemistry plays a significant role in how a fragrance will smell on you. Each person has a unique body odour, largely determined by genetics, and this will mix with the chemicals in a perfume, subtly altering its scent.
The way a perfume interacts with your skin is also influenced by your skin type and pH level. For example, some people find that certain notes, such as raspberry, black pepper, ginger, or cardamom, can turn unpleasant on their skin. The same perfume might smell very different on two people, and it is recommended to try a perfume on your skin before buying it.
Other factors that can influence how a perfume smells on you include the soap or body wash you use, your hormones, and even the weather. Your choice of fragrance may also be influenced by subconscious factors, such as your genetic compatibility with potential mates.
To get the most out of your fragrance, you can try layering it over an unscented body lotion, or spraying it on your clothes or hair.
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What are the different notes of a fragrance?
Fragrance notes are the individual ingredients that make up a perfume. They are split into three distinct elements: top notes, heart or middle notes, and base notes. Together, these notes work together to create a beautiful fragrance.
Top notes are the first thing you smell when you spray a perfume. They evaporate quickly but form the crucial first impression. Typical top notes include citrus elements such as bergamot, lemon, orange zest, and yuzu, light fruits like berries and grapefruit, and fresh herbs such as basil, sage, and lavender.
Heart notes, or middle notes, are the foundation of the fragrance, making up around 40-80% of the final scent. They appear once the top notes have disappeared and will strongly influence the base notes to come. Heart notes are considered to be the heart of the fragrance and should be pleasant and well-rounded.
Base notes are what is left at the end, creating the final, lasting impression of the fragrance. They are often rich and smooth and are the longest-lasting of the three types of notes. Common base notes include cedarwood, sandalwood, vanilla, patchouli, and musk.
In addition to these three main types of notes, fragrances can also contain gourmand notes, which are edible notes that produce a feeling of euphoria and playfulness. Woody notes, such as cedarwood and sandalwood, are also commonly used and can serve as either a top, middle, or base note.
Lastly, fragrances can be classified into different scent "families" based on their overall scent profile. Some common fragrance families include fresh green, floral, oriental, and woody.
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What are the different scent families?
The world of fragrances is complex and fascinating, with many scent families and subfamilies. The fragrance classification system was developed by Michael Edwards to help retailers suggest perfumes to consumers more efficiently. While most products are not labelled with a scent family, there are four main categories: Floral, Oriental, Woody, and Fresh.
Floral
The floral scent family is one of the most common and broadest families, often used in women's fragrances but also occasionally in men's. These fragrances smell like fresh-cut flowers or have a powdery note. They are perfect for spring and summer and can range from light and delicate to complex and intense. Notes include roses, jasmine, lilies, and peonies.
Oriental
Oriental fragrances are rich, exotic, and opulent. They are often described as seductive and luxurious. This family includes a wide range of scents, from floral oriental to woody oriental. Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and sometimes spicy, with notes like cardamom, cinnamon, vanilla, jasmine, orchid, and orange blossom. The soft oriental subfamily includes soft floral notes mixed with incense and warm spices, while the woody oriental subfamily combines earthy notes like patchouli and sandalwood with spicy and sweet notes. Amber notes are also common in the Oriental family, producing a warm, sweet, and deep scent.
Woody
Woody fragrances are warm, mysterious, and captivating, often favoured in aftershaves. They are made with wood-based smells like cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, and amber, perfect for wearing in the evening. Woody fragrances can be further divided into mossy woods, with an earthy, sweet undertone, and dry woods, which have a smoky, leathery smell.
Fresh
Fresh fragrances include herbal and leafy scents, often referred to as aromatic fougère fragrances. They are crisp and uplifting, with notes like lavender, rosemary, or basil. Citrus fragrances, such as verbena and lemongrass, also fall under the Fresh family, providing a refreshing and effervescent quality.
In addition to these four main categories, there are other scent families worth mentioning, such as the Citrus family, which includes modern variations like grapefruit and yuzu, and the Resins and Balsams family, which includes ancient perfume components like vanilla, benzoin, and myrrh.
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What are the different strengths of a fragrance?
The strength of a perfume is determined by the concentration of fragrance oils in the fragrance. The higher the concentration of oils, the stronger the fragrance and the longer it will last. The perfumes "base" can be water, alcohol or oil-based. The majority of perfumes are either an eau de parfum or an eau de toilette in their concentration levels.
Perfume or Parfum
Perfume or Parfum has the highest concentration of essential oils or "perfume extract", with around 20-30% essential oils in the fragrance blend. It is the most expensive of all the categories due to the higher concentration of oils. It is usually heavier and oilier and can last up to 24 hours. It is recommended for people with sensitive skin as it contains less alcohol in the blend.
Eau de Parfum (EDP)
Eau de Parfum has the next highest concentration of perfume oils, normally around 15-20%. On the skin, it lasts slightly less, at around four to eight hours. As the oil level drops, more alcohol is added, making Eau de Parfum less expensive than pure perfume. This variation is one of the most popular and is often used for fragrances worn during the evening or a night out.
Eau de Toilette (EDT)
Eau de Toilette is slightly cheaper than Eau de Parfum due to the drop in perfume oil (5-15%) and the increase in added alcohol. The lasting power of EDT also drops and on average is somewhere between three to seven hours, depending on skin type. It is one of the most popular strengths and is often worn during the day.
Eau de Cologne (EDC)
Eau de Cologne, also known as EDC, has a lower level of concentration than Eau de Toilette, at around 2-5%. Because of this, its lasting power drops to somewhere around two hours.
Perfume Oil
Perfume oil is a newer category of fragrance. These perfumes are made with natural fragrance oils (essential oils) diluted with jojoba oil, which is full of antioxidants and is very moisturising on the skin. They can be applied directly to the skin and are alcohol-free, causing less irritation.
The different strengths of a fragrance, therefore, refer to the concentration of oils in the perfume and how long the scent will last.
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How do I choose a signature scent?
Choosing a signature scent is a personal journey, and one that requires time and patience. The first step is to identify a fragrance family that you are drawn to. The four primary fragrance families are floral, spicy, woody, and fresh. Floral fragrances are commonly found in women's perfumes and are considered feminine and mature. Spicy fragrances are warmer and sultrier, while woody scents are often earthy and masculine. Fresh perfumes tend to be citrusy and lighter.
Once you have identified a fragrance family, you can explore the various subcategories within that family to discover your ideal scent. You can also take into consideration the image you want to project. Do you want to come off as playful? Or do you want a scent that makes you feel sexy?
Sampling is an important part of the process. Try a few different fragrances and allow yourself to live with the scent for a bit before making a decision. You can purchase sample sets or subscribe to a perfume subscription service to test out multiple fragrances.
Another approach is to identify one or two notes that you love and sample a range of fragrances that feature them. These notes could remind you of a person, a time in your life, a song, a book, or an experience. It could be a simple floral or fruity scent or a complex mixture of woody and oriental notes with a floral base.
Lastly, consider the longevity of the fragrance. You want a scent that will last throughout the day and leave a lasting impression.
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Frequently asked questions
There are several fragrance families, including fresh green, floral, oriental, woody, and citrus.
A fragrance is typically composed of three notes: top, middle, and base. The top notes are the first scent you smell, followed by the middle notes, which form the main body of the fragrance. The base notes are the longest-lasting and mix with the middle notes to create the full body of the perfume.
The fragrance that works for you will depend on your unique body chemistry and personality. It's important to try the fragrance on your skin, as the scent may differ from how it smells in the bottle.
Your body chemistry can be affected by what you eat and drink, which in turn can influence how a perfume interacts with your skin. For example, eating spicy foods can alter your body chemistry and affect how a fragrance smells on you.
