Anisha Riggs
Licorice is a root that has been used for thousands of years, from ancient Roman times to the present day, in medicine, food production, and perfumery. Its aroma is reminiscent of aniseed, star anise, tarragon, fennel, and caramel. In perfumes, licorice is a divisive note, with some people loving it and others hating it. However, it is a versatile ingredient that can be used as a subtle accent or a bold statement, blending well with vanilla, musk, floral, and even leather notes.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Smell | Subtle aniseed-y, almost caramel-y |
| Used in | Gourmand fragrances, blends with woods and earthy notes |
| Source | Root of Glycyrrhiza glabra |
| Other names | Sweet root |
| Contains | Chemical compounds anethole and glycyrrhizin |
| Aroma similar to | Anise, star anise, tarragon, sassafras, and fennel |
| Perfumes with licorice notes | Parfums de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender, Huitieme Art Myrrhiad, Parfumerie Generale Aomassai, Serge Lutens Boxeuses, Commes des Garcons Black, Dior Eau Noire, Lolita Lempicka, Etra Etro, Carner’s El Born, Hypnotic Poison Eau de Parfum, Reglisse Noire 1000 Flowers, Black Vines Kerosene, Hermessence Brin de Reglisse, Eau de Reglisse, Ange ou Demon |
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What You'll Learn
Licorice is a polarising ingredient
Some people who dislike the taste of licorice enjoy its scent, finding it soothing. For instance, one person who is not a fan of the taste of licorice candy enjoys the perfume Etra Etro, which contains various spices like cardamom and coriander, creating a licorice effect. Another person who dislikes the taste but likes the smell is a fan of the fragrance Lolita Lempicka, which they wear when they feel a cold coming on, as it soothes them in the same way licorice tea does.
On the other hand, some people who like the taste of licorice are not fans of it in perfume. One person who loves the taste of licorice jelly beans does not like the fragrance Very Good Girl, as it has a very strong anise smell. Similarly, one person who enjoys the taste of licorice Stimorol chewing gum finds the scent of Kerosene's Black Vines perfume off-putting, describing it as smelling like licorice and "bleh".
The strength of the licorice note in a perfume seems to be a factor in its popularity. For instance, one person finds Lolita Lempicka too subtle, while another finds the scent of licorice overwhelming, preferring it to be a supporting player in a fragrance.
Overall, licorice is a unique and versatile ingredient in perfumery, offering subtle, intriguing, and beguiling notes to a fragrance. However, its polarising nature means that it is not to everyone's taste, and some people find its scent overwhelming or off-putting.
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Licorice fragrances can be paired with other scents
Licorice is a polarising scent, with people tending to either love or hate its distinctive aroma. However, when used in fragrances, it can add an intriguing and beguiling touch. Licorice fragrances can be paired with other scents to create unique and captivating perfumes.
One example is Parfums de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender, a plush, floral-vanilla-musk fragrance with hints of almond and star anise. Licorice can also be paired with myrrh, as seen in Huitieme Art Myrrhiad, resulting in a scent reminiscent of a root beer float with incense. For those who enjoy gourmand fragrances, Parfumerie Generale Aomassai combines caramel, hazelnut, vetiver, and hay with a hint of licorice.
Licorice fragrances can also be paired with leather, as demonstrated by Serge Lutens Boxeuses, which combines dusky, plummy leather with a hint of anise. For a bolder, smokier scent, Commes des Garcons Black combines licorice with birch tar. Dior's Eau Noire offers a dark, spicy aftershave-like fragrance with notes of rooty, unsweetened licorice, lavender, and dried herbs.
Some other licorice fragrances to explore include Lolita Lempicka, Carner's El Born, and Etra Etro, which may use spices like cardamom and coriander to achieve their unique licorice accords. If you're seeking a stronger licorice scent, Black Vines by Kerosene and Reglisse Noire 1000 Flowers are worth considering.
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Licorice perfumes are often inspired by licorice candy
One example of a licorice-inspired perfume is Carner's El Born, which has been described as the ultimate licorice allsorts fragrance. Another is Parfumerie Generale Aomassai, which smells like caramel and hazelnut from a distance and vetiver and hay up close, with a part-herbal, part-sweet licorice note in the middle. For those who want a more subtle hint of licorice, Parfums de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender is a plush, floral-vanilla-musk with hints of almond and star anise.
Some people may find the scent of licorice too overwhelming or unpleasant and prefer to use perfumes with a more subtle accent of anise or other similar notes. For example, Dior Eau Noire is a dark, spicy aftershave that smells of rooty, unsweetened licorice, lavender, and dried herbs. On the other hand, some perfumes may be too subtle in their licorice notes for those who love the scent. For example, one person found that Lolita Lempicka was not strong enough in its licorice scent.
The scent of licorice has been described as soothing, and some people may be drawn to licorice perfumes because of their association with licorice candy or chewing gum. For example, one person bought the perfume Etra Etro because it reminded them of Stimorol chewing gum and felt completely different and special. Licorice perfumes can also be used in love spells, sprinkled in the footprints of a lover to keep them from wandering.
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Licorice has a sweet aroma
Licorice, derived from the root of Glycyrrhiza glabra, has been valued for thousands of years. It was used by the Romans and even found in the pyramids. In perfumery, it is often used in gourmand fragrances and blends well with woody and earthy notes. One example of a licorice-forward fragrance is Huitieme Art Myrrhiad, where the licorice facet of myrrh is highlighted against creamy vanilla, resulting in a scent reminiscent of a root beer float. Another example is Parfumerie Generale Aomassai, which combines caramel and hazelnut with vetiver and hay, complemented by a part-herbal, part-sweet licorice note.
For those who enjoy the scent of licorice, there are several perfumes that feature it as a prominent note. These include Etra Etro, described as a unique and special fragrance, and Carner's El Born, a long-lasting licorice allsorts scent. Lolita Lempicka is another well-known fragrance with licorice notes, often recommended for those seeking a stronger licorice presence. Reglisse Noire 1000 Flowers is also suggested for those wanting to smell like black licorice, rather than the strawberry-flavored variety.
While some people may not enjoy the taste of licorice, they might find its aroma in perfumes appealing. The anise-like note can add an intriguing touch to a fragrance without being overpowering. For instance, Parfums de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender is a plush, floral-vanilla-musk with hints of almond and star anise. Similarly, Serge Lutens Boxeuses combines dusky, plummy leather with a hint of anise for a subtle licorice effect.
Overall, licorice's sweet aroma has captivated perfumers and fragrance enthusiasts alike. Its unique, sugary scent has been skillfully incorporated into a range of perfumes, from gourmand delights to subtle, nuanced compositions. Whether you love or hate the taste of licorice, its aroma in perfumes can be an unexpected pleasure.
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Licorice perfumes can be masculine or feminine
Licorice is a polarising ingredient, with people tending to either love or hate its taste. This seems to be reflected in the use of licorice in perfumes, as it is a divisive note. However, the versatility of licorice means it can be used to create both masculine and feminine fragrances.
On the one hand, licorice can be used to create sweet and gourmand fragrances. For example, Parfums de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender is a plush, floral-vanilla-musk fragrance with hints of almond and star anise. Similarly, Parfumerie Generale Aomassai combines caramel, hazelnut, vetiver, and hay with a part-herbal, part-sweet licorice note. These perfumes, with their sweet and gourmand notes, may be considered more typically feminine.
On the other hand, licorice can also be used to create more masculine fragrances. For instance, Dior Eau Noire is described as a dark, spicy aftershave with notes of rooty, unsweetened licorice, lavender, and dried herbs. Commes des Garcons Black combines licorice with smoky birch tar for a bold, austere fragrance. These perfumes, with their darker and more intense notes, may be perceived as more masculine.
The versatility of licorice as a fragrance note is perhaps due to its chemical composition. Licorice contains the compounds anethole and glycyrrhizin, which are around 50 times sweeter than sugar. This gives licorice its distinctive sweet root aroma, reminiscent of anise, star anise, tarragon, sassafras, and fennel. However, when used in smaller quantities or combined with different notes, licorice can take on a less sweet and more subtle character, making it suitable for a wider range of fragrances.
Ultimately, the perception of licorice perfumes as masculine or feminine is likely to come down to individual preference and cultural associations. While some may associate the sweetness of licorice with femininity, others may find the intensity of certain licorice fragrances more appealing in a masculine context. The versatility of licorice as a fragrance note allows perfumers to create a range of scents that can be enjoyed by people of all genders.
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Frequently asked questions
Licorice is a root that contains the chemical compound anethole, which gives it a sweet scent reminiscent of aniseed, fennel, caramel, and star anise.
Some perfumes that contain licorice include:
- Lolita Lempicka
- Parfums de Nicolai Kiss Me Tender
- Huitieme Art Myrrhiad
- Parfumerie Generale Aomassai
- Serge Lutens Boxeuses
- Dior Eau Noire
- Carner’s El Born
- Etra Etro
- Hermessence Brin de Reglisse Hermes
- Eau de Reglisse Caron
- Hypnotic Poison Eau de Parfum Christian Dior
- Reglisse Noire 1000 Flowers
- Black Vines Kerosene
The strong scent of licorice is divisive, with some people loving it and others hating it. This is also the case with the taste of licorice.
Licorice blends well with woods and earthy notes. It is also used in gourmand fragrances and pairs well with leather, vanilla, musk, and almond.
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