Anisha Riggs
Created in 1889, Guerlain Jicky is considered the first modern perfume. It is a unique fragrance that combines synthetic scents with natural extracts. The perfume has top notes of lavender and citrus, with hints of vanilla and civet. The scent has been described as warm, sensual, and erotic. Some have likened the fragrance to the smell of sex, while others have found it off-putting, describing it as skanky and fecal. Jicky is a divisive scent that challenges conventions and has become a timeless classic in the world of perfumery.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Notes | Bergamot, lavender, basil, bay, rosemary, sandalwood, cinnamon, civet, coumarin, and ethyl vanillin |
| Aroma | Warm, carnal, crisp, herbal, aromatic, musky, dirty, creamy, woody, spicy, fresh, citrusy, green, skanky, fecal, sweet, powdery |
| Type | Unisex, Oriental chypre |
| Year | 1889 |
| Creator | Aimé Guerlain |
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What You'll Learn
Jicky's top notes
The opening notes of Jicky are crucial to its overall character and appeal. The blast of citrus is so tart that it can make your eyes water, and the lavender adds a fresh and aromatic touch. These initial scents are followed by a strong coumarin-tonka bean note, which is derived from the tonka bean and adds a sweet and creamy aspect to the fragrance. The top notes of Jicky are carefully crafted to create a complex and intriguing introduction to the perfume.
The lavender note in Jicky is particularly noteworthy as it is not a typical straight-up lavender scent. Instead, it is blended with other notes to create a unique and appealing aroma. The lavender in Jicky has been described as "purple lavender," emitting a citrus-soaked fragrance that is both fresh and aromatic. This innovative use of lavender showcases the perfumer's skill in combining synthetic and natural ingredients to create a modern and revolutionary fragrance.
The top notes of Jicky are designed to intrigue and captivate the wearer and those around them. The combination of citrus, lavender, and herbal notes creates a complex and multifaceted bouquet that is both sparkling and elegant. The top notes set the tone for the rest of the fragrance, leading into the heart and base notes that further develop the character of this timeless and iconic perfume.
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The perfume's evolution
Jicky, the first modern perfume, was created in 1889 by Aimé Guerlain, the son of perfumer Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain. It is considered a timeless classic and a remarkably modern fragrance. Jicky is the oldest perfume ever made that is still on the market and enjoys the distinction of being the oldest perfume in continuous production.
The perfume is said to be a union of science and art, with a unique and sensual scent. It is described as having top notes of lavender and a blend of citrus notes, including bergamot, lemon, and mandarin, with secondary notes of vanilla and the traditional Guerlain bouquet. The perfume also incorporates exotic spices from the Far East. The base notes are smooth and deep, with a warm, carnal aroma. The modern version of Jicky is different from the original, with a lighter and more subtle scent.
Jicky is known for its use of synthetic ingredients, particularly the combination of coumarin and vanillin, which gives it a unique character. The use of synthetic molecules in the perfume was a breakthrough at the time, introducing perfumers to a new and nearly limitless palette. The bottle design is also notable, inspired by a 19th-century medicine jar with a stopper shaped like a champagne cork.
Over time, Jicky has undergone a slight evolution, with some describing the modern version as a "mere skeleton" of its former self. The purity of the vanillin has improved, and the overall scent may have become less "raunchy" and more "stately." However, the perfume still retains its unique identity, with its complex interplay of notes and its ability to warm up with body chemistry.
Jicky continues to be a beloved and iconic fragrance, with a long history and a dedicated following. Its evolution over time showcases the innovative nature of perfumery and the ongoing pursuit of olfactory excellence.
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Comparison to Shalimar
Jicky by Guerlain is often compared to Shalimar, another perfume by the brand. Jicky debuted in 1889 and has been in production longer than any other fragrance. It was one of the first fragrances to use synthetic perfume ingredients, including coumarin, vanillin, and civet.
Shalimar is said to be similar to Jicky, with some even speculating that it was created by dumping a sample of vanillin into a bottle of Jicky. Both fragrances feature a blend of natural and synthetic ingredients, resulting in a complex and powerful scent. Those familiar with Shalimar will recognize a similar fire and ice effect in Jicky, with its top notes of lavender and citrus contrasting with its warm base of vanilla, amber, and musk.
While Shalimar takes you directly to the depths of seduction and desire, Jicky does so in a more subtle way. Jicky is said to be initially difficult to accept by women, and it was more popular with men for the first 20 years after its introduction. However, it has since become a unisex fragrance.
In terms of scent, Jicky is described as having a masculine aromatic lavender note that transitions to a sweet powdery vanilla with animalistic undertones. In comparison, Shalimar is said to have more prominent citrus notes and a stronger leather note. Some people find the vintage formulation of Shalimar to be superior, as newer versions may have played down the civet note.
Overall, both Jicky and Shalimar are complex and unique fragrances that have stood the test of time. While Shalimar may be more overtly seductive, Jicky offers a more subtle and nuanced take on sensuality.
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Its synthetic ingredients
Jicky by Guerlain is widely regarded as the first fragrance to incorporate synthetic ingredients, making it one of the most significant perfumes in the history of scent design. It is said to have changed perfume forever, introducing synthetic molecules into its composition and combining them with natural extracts.
The synthetic ingredients in Jicky include coumarin, derived from tonka beans, and vanillin, another synthetic essence. Coumarin has an almond-like scent, while vanillin provides a light, clear, and singing vanilla note. These synthetic notes are blended with natural extracts to create a unique and revolutionary fragrance.
The combination of coumarin and vanillin in Jicky was a groundbreaking innovation. Coumarin, derived from tonka beans, has a sweet, nutty, and slightly spicy aroma. It adds a warm and sensual touch to the fragrance. Vanillin, on the other hand, brings a soft and subtle vanilla scent, enhancing the overall sweetness and warmth of the perfume.
The use of these synthetic ingredients in Jicky was a bold move by perfumer Aimé Guerlain, who broke with the traditions and trends of his time. By introducing synthetic molecules, Guerlain expanded the possibilities for perfumers, offering an entirely new and nearly limitless palette of scents. This fusion of science and art in perfumery challenged conventions and paved the way for modern fragrance creation.
While the synthetic ingredients in Jicky played a pivotal role in its uniqueness, the perfume also incorporates a range of natural extracts. The interplay between these synthetic and natural notes creates a complex and intriguing scent that has fascinated and intrigued perfume enthusiasts for generations.Gendy
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Reviews and perception
Jicky, the first modern perfume, is a polarising fragrance. While some reviewers describe it as "pure sexual-ness", others are horrified by its scent, describing it as "truly outrageous".
Jicky was created by Aimé Guerlain in 1889 and was the first perfume to combine coumarin and vanillin, two synthetic essences. It is primarily composed of lavender and vanilla scents, with secondary citrus notes and a hint of the traditional Guerlain bouquet. The official description of the perfume captures its multifaceted nature: "Fresh, dynamic, surprising [...] Filled with contrasts and dualities, freshness and oriental notes, Jicky is a magical perfume that plays on the olfactory ambiguity between masculine and feminine."
Some reviewers are enamoured by Jicky's unique scent, describing it as warm, sensual, and erotic. One reviewer describes the experience of wearing Jicky in the heat of a warm day, with the scent warming up with their body chemistry. Another reviewer describes the experience of wearing Jicky as follows: "Jicky was lavender, then bergamot, easing into vanilla, and then, in the afterglow, the civet that hovered over these bright notes like the smell of sex after a romp between two freshly bathed people."
However, other reviewers are less enthused by the scent. One reviewer describes Jicky as "a horny teenage boy faced with a gorgeous, brilliant woman", suggesting that it takes time to appreciate the fragrance. Another reviewer describes their experience of smelling Jicky for the first time as "horrifying", characterising the scent as a "blast of citrus and lavender, followed by the stink of (synthetic) civet". Other reviewers describe the scent as weird, skanky, fecal, and diaper. One reviewer even compares the scent to "moist rotting vegetation".
Despite these mixed reviews, Jicky remains a timeless classic and a remarkably modern fragrance.
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Frequently asked questions
Jicky is a unique scent that combines both masculine and feminine notes. It has been described as sensual, warm, rich, and erotic. The top notes are lavender, bergamot, lemon, mandarin, and other citruses. The middle notes are herbal, with hints of vanilla and green anise. The base notes are musk, civet, rosewood, sandalwood, and tonka bean.
Jicky is available in Eau de Parfum (EdP) and Eau de Toilette (EdT) concentrations. The EdP has creamier and denser citrus notes and a stronger civet scent. The EdT has a stronger initial blast of citrus and a more prominent coumarin-tonka bean note.
Jicky was first created in 1889 and has since undergone some changes in its formulation. The modern version is different from the original, with a purer form of vanillin. The scent is now fresher, drier, and less intense than the original.
Reviews of the Jicky perfume are mixed. Some people describe it as a warm and sensual scent, while others find it too strong or unusual. Some reviewers mention that it has a "'skanky' or 'fecal' smell, while others appreciate its complexity and uniqueness. It is considered a classic and iconic fragrance.
