Understanding Fragrance-Free Labeling And What It Means For You

Fragrance-free is often used interchangeably with unscented, but they are not the same. Fragrance-free products do not contain synthetic or natural fragrance materials. However, they may still have a scent as ingredients and solvents used in the product may carry an odour. Unscented products, on the other hand, are formulated to have no smell but can contain ingredients that have a smell that has been neutralised by other components.

'Unscented' products may still contain fragrance chemicals

Unscented products are formulated to have no smell. However, they can contain ingredients that have a smell, but the smell has been neutralised by other components. These components are known as fragrance chemicals, and they are added to give the product a neutral smell.

All of the ingredients used to make a skincare product—whether natural or synthetic—have an aroma. Sometimes, a product’s original aroma will be unpleasant. That’s why special fragrance chemicals are added to some items to give them a neutral smell. These chemicals are often added to skincare products to eliminate unpleasant smells. However, research suggests that these chemicals are extremely harmful.

For example, a study examined 174 of the best-selling moisturisers from Amazon, Target, and Walmart. The researchers found that a full 45% of the moisturisers labelled “fragrance-free” contained fragrance chemicals.

It is important to note that not all fragrance chemicals are harmful. High-quality fragrances, such as those found in Mustela’s products, are free from potentially dangerous chemicals and won’t irritate your infant’s skin.

'Fragrance-free' products may still have a scent

The term "fragrance-free" is often used loosely. While it is generally understood that fragrance-free means that no chemicals have been added with the specific purpose of imparting a scent to a product, this is not always the case.

According to the Food and Drug Administration (FDA), a fragrance is "any natural or synthetic substance or substances used solely to impart an odour to a cosmetic product". This means that if a fragrance additive serves a purpose other than giving a product a scent, it can be legally included in a "fragrance-free" product. For example, rose oil has a scent but also has moisturising properties, so if it is included in a skincare product for its moisturising effect, the product can still be labelled as "fragrance-free".

In essence, "fragrance-free" does not guarantee that a product will be completely odourless. It simply means that the product does not contain ingredients used solely for their scent.

This distinction is important because some people may be allergic to certain fragrances. For instance, lavender is a common allergen. If a product contains lavender but has had its scent masked by other chemicals, someone with a lavender allergy may not realise that the allergen is present.

Additionally, fragrances can cause adverse reactions in people, especially those who suffer from respiratory problems. They can also react with compounds in the air to generate secondary pollutants such as formaldehyde, which is an irritant.

It is worth noting that there are no official, legal definitions of the terms "fragrance-free" and "unscented". The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic Act prohibits "misbranded" cosmetics, but because there are no legal definitions of these terms, companies are free to use them according to their own interpretations.

Therefore, it is important for consumers who are sensitive to fragrances or have allergies to carefully read the ingredient lists on products and to perform patch tests before using new products.

Fragrances can be natural or synthetic

On the other hand, synthetic fragrances are created in laboratories using artificial compounds and natural materials. Synthetic fragrances replicate the smell of natural oils and are often derived from chemical processes involving petroleum. They can be divided into three groups: non-natural synthetic fragrances, which are not found in nature; nature-identical synthetic fragrances, which have the same chemical structure as those found in nature; and natural isolates, which are derived from chemical processes applied to natural raw materials. Synthetic fragrances offer benefits such as consistent quality, longer-lasting scents, and a wider range of options for perfumers.

While natural fragrances are generally believed to be safer, some natural ingredients can cause skin allergies and sensitization. In contrast, synthetic fragrances may offer less allergenic alternatives in certain cases. Additionally, recent studies suggest that key chemicals in plant-derived oils may disrupt hormones, a risk not necessarily associated with synthetic fragrances.

The choice between natural and synthetic fragrances depends on individual preferences. Natural fragrances tend to be more expensive, have a shorter shelf life, and may not be as strong or long-lasting. On the other hand, synthetic fragrances are usually more affordable, have a longer shelf life, and can provide a wider range of scent options.

Fragrances can be allergens

In 2012, the Scientific Committee on Consumer Safety (SCCS) released its scientific opinion on fragrance allergens. The findings deduced that 16% of eczema patients were sensitized to ingredients found in fragrances. From the everyday population, 1-3% of Europeans show allergic reactions to common fragrance ingredients.

The symptoms of a perfume allergy can result from touching the perfume liquid or substance, getting sprayed by the perfume, or even inhaling some of it. A 2009 survey on fragrance sensitivity found that up to about 30% of the population of the United States had irritation from a perfume. As many as 19% of participants in the survey had actual health effects from fragrances.

The most common problems observed with fragrance ingredients, either through the use of a perfume or a fragranced consumer product, are skin allergies and skin irritations. Many people complain about intolerance or rashes caused by perfumes or perfumed products. However, the majority of complaints commonly described as 'skin rash' are believed to be irritant reactions and not skin allergies. A key difference is that allergic reactions typically occur with a delay of about one day after using the perfume or cosmetic product, while irritant reactions develop immediately after use.

Skin allergy to fragrance ingredients occurs when an individual's skin has been exposed to a certain minimum dose of a fragrance allergen. For example, through the regular use of a fragranced cosmetic product. Once an allergy has developed, it is a life-long condition. The symptoms are redness, swelling, and vesicles that are commonly described as a 'skin rash' and may occur upon re-exposure to the fragrance allergen in question. Skin allergies to fragrance ingredients are most commonly caused by fragranced cosmetic products and frequently involve the skin of the face, hands, or armpits.

To cause a skin allergy, a certain minimum amount of the fragrance substance must penetrate the skin and attach to a skin protein. Once the fragrance substance is attached to a skin protein, it can provoke a cascade of events in our immune system, which ultimately ends in allergy symptoms.

Fragrances are not required to be approved by the FDA before being sold

Fragrance-free products do not have any additional chemicals added to impart a scent. However, they may still contain ingredients that have a natural scent, as long as these ingredients are not included to act as fragrances. For example, if a cream is made with an oil that has a smell, it could be labelled as fragrance-free because the oil is included to act as an emollient, not as a scent.

In the United States, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) classifies fragrances according to their intended use. Fragrance products can be categorized as drugs, cosmetics, or both. If a product is intended to be applied to a person's body to make them more attractive, it is categorized as a cosmetic. Perfumes, colognes, and aftershaves are considered cosmetics according to the FDA.

Although fragrance and flavour formulas are often considered trade secrets, fragrances and fragrance ingredients must adhere to labelling regulations and ensure consumer well-being during usage. Cosmetic manufacturers and brand owners have a legal responsibility for ensuring appropriate labelling for the safety of consumers. However, it is important to note that fragrances are not required to be approved by the FDA before being sold. The FDA treats shampoos, lotions, and moisturisers as cosmetics rather than medicines, and as such, these products are not strongly regulated. The law does not require cosmetic products and ingredients, other than colour additives, to have FDA approval before they go on the market. Companies and individuals who manufacture or market cosmetics have a legal responsibility to ensure the safety of their products.

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