Seamus Hammond
Making your own perfume is an easy and fun process, allowing you to create a unique signature scent or a thoughtful gift. You can make your own fragrances with essential oils, alcohol, and other ingredients, saving you money on expensive brand-name perfumes. The process involves blending different scent notes in specific ratios and allowing the perfume to age and mingle, before diluting it and bottling it.
What do I need to make my own perfume?
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Base | Benzion, Carrot Seed, Cedarwood, Frankincense, Jasmine, Myrrh, Patchouli, Sandalwood, Vanilla, Violet, Ylang Ylang, Vetiver, Ginger, Pine, Cypress |
| Middle | Coriander, Palmarosa, Marjoram, Basil, Rosemary, Rose Geranium, Petitgrain, Lavender, Black Pepper, Cardamom, Chamomile, Cinnamon, Clove, Fir Needle, Jasmine, Juniper, Lemongrass, Neroli, Nutmeg, Rose, Rosewood, Ylang-Ylang |
| Top | Lemon, Orange, Grapefruit, Lime, Bergamot, Spearmint, Peppermint |
| Other Ingredients | Alcohol, Essential oils, Fragrance oils, Infused oils, Flavour extracts, Vegetable glycerin, Witch hazel, Fractionated coconut oil, Sweet almond oil, Distilled water, Glycerine |
| Equipment | Spray bottle, Pipette, Funnel, Measuring cup |
| Process | Mix base notes, then middle notes, then top notes. Age the fragrance in a cool, dark location for at least 48 hours. Dilute with water and add glycerine. |
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What You'll Learn
Choosing your base notes
The base notes of a perfume are the last to be detected but linger the longest, acting as a fixative to the lighter top and middle notes and helping them retain their aroma for longer. When creating your own perfume, the base notes should be the first thing you add.
There are many different options for base notes, including cedarwood, cypress, ginger, patchouli, pine, sandalwood, vanilla, and vetiver. You can also use benzion, carrot seed, frankincense, jasmine, myrrh, violet, ylang-ylang, or even flavour extracts such as vanilla.
When choosing your base notes, it is important to consider the desired fragrance family of your perfume. Base notes form the foundation of the perfume's scent, determining whether it will be oriental, woody, fresh, or floral. For example, cedarwood and sandalwood are common base notes in woody perfumes, while vanilla and jasmine are often used in oriental fragrances.
It is also crucial to consider the ratio of base notes to middle and top notes. The ideal ratio for blending notes is 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. However, you can always experiment with different ratios to create a unique scent.
When mixing your chosen base notes, it is recommended to start with about 20 drops of your selected oil(s) for a 10ml bottle. You can then add your middle and top notes, seal the bottle tightly, and shake well to combine the oils.
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Selecting middle and top notes
Selecting the middle and top notes for your perfume is an important step in creating your unique fragrance. These notes are the heart of your perfume, determining its character and theme.
Middle Notes
Middle notes are the core of your perfume, adding depth and complexity. They emerge after the top notes fade, usually within 15 minutes of applying the perfume, and can last for up to a few hours. Familiarize yourself with popular middle notes like black pepper, cardamom, chamomile, cinnamon, clove, jasmine, juniper, and rose. These notes are predominantly floral, but you'll also find spicy and fruity options. When mixing, add your middle notes after the base notes, aiming for 50% of your blend.
Top Notes
Top notes are the first impression of your perfume, captivating the wearer with an immediate, fresh scent. They are usually made up of uplifting floral or citrus scents, including popular choices such as lemon, bergamot, rose, lavender, and peppermint. Top notes are the lightest and most volatile, lasting only 5-20 minutes before evaporating to make way for the middle notes. When mixing, add your top notes last, aiming for a ratio of 30%.
Combining Notes
When selecting your middle and top notes, consider how they will combine with your base notes to create a balanced fragrance. The ideal blend combines a maximum of 3-4 dominant notes. You can visualize this balance through the fragrance pyramid, which illustrates the progression of notes over time, from fresh and fleeting to deep and long-lasting.
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Diluting your fragrance
Choosing a Diluting Agent
The choice of diluting agent depends on the type of perfume you want to create. If you are making an alcohol-based perfume spray, it is advisable to use perfumer's alcohol as your diluting agent. This option is suitable for evaluating the odour profile of your materials. However, if you plan to add your fragrance to bases such as candles, creams, detergents, or oils, you should avoid using perfumer's alcohol.
Another popular option for dilution is Di Propylene Glycol (DPG). DPG is a solvent commonly used in the fragrance industry, known for its solubility in water, alcohol, and certain oils. It also acts as a humectant and has fixative properties. However, it is derived from petrochemicals, making it unsuitable for natural perfumery.
If you prefer to create an oil-based perfume, you can simply dilute your fragrance in a carrier oil. Alternatively, you can explore other diluting agents like benzyl benzoate and benzyl alcohol, which are sometimes used in fragrance compounds to aid the blending process.
Dilution Ratios and Calculations
Perfumers often dilute their materials to different concentrations, such as 20%, 10%, 1%, 0.5%, or even lower, depending on the desired intensity and the specific materials used. When working with strong-smelling materials, diluting them can make it easier to handle trace amounts and prevent waste.
Calculating the dilution ratio can be straightforward. For example, if you have a 50% solution of Benzoin Absolute and want to dilute it to 20%, you can use the formula C1V1=C2V2, where C represents concentration and V represents volume. However, it's important to note that these calculations can become more complex when considering molecular weight and the specific properties of your ingredients.
Mixing and Aging
Once you've chosen your diluting agent and determined the appropriate ratios, it's time to mix your fragrance. Combine your base notes, middle notes, and top notes in the desired proportions. It is generally recommended to use 30% top notes, 50% middle notes, and 20% base notes. However, you can experiment with different ratios and combinations to create unique fragrances.
After mixing, it's crucial to let your fragrance age. Place it in a cool, dark location for at least 48 hours up to several months. Aging allows the scents to mingle and intensify. During this period, the strong alcohol odour should dissipate, leaving behind the delicate perfume notes. Don't be discouraged if your first attempt doesn't turn out perfectly – blending fragrances is an art that requires patience and experimentation.
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Adding preservatives
Firstly, it is important to understand that preservatives are necessary to prevent the growth of bacteria, mould, and fungus, which can be harmful to your health. While bacteria do not thrive in alcohol or oil-based perfumes, products with a significant water content require preservation. As a general rule, any product with more than 5% water should be preserved.
There are various preservative options available, including synthetic and natural alternatives. Synthetic preservatives are typically cheaper, while natural preservatives, such as Natacide, can be more expensive. Natacide is a popular preservative used in cosmetics, inhibiting bacteria, mould, and yeast. It is considered safe and is often listed as a fragrance ingredient on product labels. Another option is Potassium Sorbate, a mild and non-toxic preservative that is used in cosmetics, food, and drinks. It metabolises into a harmless salt when ingested.
Additionally, antioxidants can be used as preservatives to prevent oxidation. Vitamin E, for example, can be added, but it is important to ensure you use the correct form, such as d or dl-tocopherol, as tocopherol acetate does not have any effect on oxidation. The amount of Vitamin E required depends on the quantity of plant oils in your perfume. Other antioxidants to consider include rosemary, BHT, and iso E super, which can extend the wear-life of your perfume, especially for woody fragrances.
It is also worth noting that some essential oils, such as Sandalwood, Oud, Patchouli, and Vetiver, act as their own preservatives and improve over time, as long as they are stored away from UV light and maintained at a cool room temperature.
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Selecting a bottle
There are a few things to consider when selecting a bottle for your perfume:
- The size of the bottle: You will need to ensure that the bottle is large enough to hold the amount of perfume you intend to make. A standard 10ml atomizer bottle is often used for perfume, but you can also find larger bottles if you plan to make a bigger batch.
- The material of the bottle: Glass bottles are commonly used for perfume as they can be easily cleaned and sterilized. Reusing old glass bottles is a cost-effective and environmentally friendly option. If you choose to use a clear glass bottle, remember that your fragrance will need protection from light, so it should be stored in a dark place or covered with aluminium foil or wrapping paper.
- The shape and design of the bottle: The shape and design of the bottle can be chosen based on your personal preference and the overall aesthetic you are aiming for. You may want to consider the shape of the bottle in relation to the type of lid or spray nozzle you intend to use. Additionally, the design of the bottle can be used to indicate the type of scent it contains, with colour-coding or labelling used to differentiate between different fragrances.
- The type of lid or spray nozzle: Your bottle can have a lid that screws on or a roller ball for roll-on perfumes. Alternatively, you may prefer a spray nozzle for a body mist. Consider the application method that suits your preferences and the intended use of the perfume.
Overall, selecting a bottle for your perfume involves practical considerations such as size and material, as well as aesthetic choices that reflect your personal style and the characteristics of the fragrance.
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Frequently asked questions
You will need essential oils, fragrance oils, alcohol, distilled water, and a bottle for storage. You can also add glycerine to help preserve the fragrance.
You can use vodka or grain alcohol. If you want to use grain alcohol, go for 190 proof if possible.
You can use a spray bottle or a glass bottle with a roller ball. Preferably, use coloured glass bottles to protect your fragrance from light.
A good starting point is 20% essential oils, 70% alcohol, and 10% distilled water. Adjust the number of drops of essential oil to make the scent stronger or weaker.
You should let your perfume sit for at least 48 hours after mixing. However, it can take up to three months for the fragrance to truly shine.
