Katrina Rosales
The Victorian era marked a significant shift in the world of perfumery, with the development of synthetic scents and breakthrough molecules that transformed the industry. During this time, perfumes played a crucial role in masking the unpleasant odours resulting from the Industrial Revolution and the associated overcrowding. While a Victorian lady was not known for dousing herself in fragrance, perfumes were an integral part of her beauty regimen, often consisting of delicate and floral scents like jasmine, lavender, roses, and honeysuckle. The era's fondness for violets, in particular, led to its use in various toiletries and cosmetic products. Queen Victoria's preference for 'Fleurs de Bulgarie', a blend of Bulgarian rose, musk, ambergris, and bergamot, further influenced the fragrance choices of the time. The availability of inexpensive synthetic fragrances and the emergence of popular scents like bergamot and lemon oil, which surpassed Eau de Cologne in popularity, made perfumes accessible to a wider range of Victorian women.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Fragrance | Delicate, floral, understated, feminine |
| Scents | Jasmine, lavender, roses, honeysuckle, marjoram, thyme, rosemary, cloves, musk, ambergris, bergamot, violet |
| Purpose | Hide people's lack of cleanliness |
| Synthetic Scents | Cinnamon, vanilla, almond, musk |
| Popular Fragrance | Bergamot and lemon oil |
| Base | Neroli oil |
| Scented | Handkerchiefs, gloves, clothing, cosmetics |
| Synthetic Fragrances | Inexpensive |
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What You'll Learn
The Industrial Revolution and perfume
The Industrial Revolution brought about significant changes in the world of perfume, with new scientific advancements and a growing demand for fragrance. Overcrowding in cities due to the Industrial Revolution led to disease and poor hygiene, and perfume became a way to mask unpleasant odours. This period marked the first time that scientists successfully developed synthetic scents, using a process that broke down molecules to create more consistent smells. Perfume brand Guerlain adopted these practices, offering fragrances with notes of cinnamon, vanilla, almond, and musk.
The availability of synthetic fragrances meant that perfume became accessible to a wider range of people, as it was now more affordable. However, the wealthy sought to distinguish themselves by demanding more complex, natural perfumes, leading to the creation of fragrances composed of multiple extracts and sold in decorative glass vials.
During the Victorian era, popular fragrances included floral scents like jasmine, lavender, roses, and honeysuckle, as well as aromatic herbs such as marjoram, thyme, and rosemary. Queen Victoria herself was a devotee of the perfume house Creed, favouring their 'Fleurs de Bulgarie' fragrance, which included notes of Bulgarian rose, musk, ambergris, and bergamot.
The Victorian era also saw the rise of popular fragrances such as 'Mille Fleurs', 'Jockey Club', and 'New Mown Hay', although these scents were not trademarked, leading to different versions being sold by various pharmacists. This era marked a pivotal moment in the history of perfumery, with British fragrances becoming increasingly innovative and the first fragrances blending natural and synthetic ingredients emerging.
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Synthetic scents
The Victorian era marked a significant shift in perfumery with the advent of synthetic fragrances. The development of synthetic scents was a breakthrough in the perfume industry, making perfume more accessible and affordable for the masses. This period witnessed the emergence of inexpensive synthetic fragrances, which broadened the market for perfumes, allowing a wider range of Victorian women to indulge in this sensory delight.
The creation of synthetic scents can be attributed to the advancements in science during the Industrial Revolution. Chemists and perfumers began experimenting with molecular breakdown, leading to the development of more consistent and stable fragrances. This innovation not only enhanced the longevity of perfumes but also introduced a spectrum of new aroma compounds. The process of synthesizing scents allowed perfumers to replicate natural fragrances that were previously challenging to extract, such as the scent of flowers.
One of the pioneering perfumers in this field was Guerlain, whose iconic scent Jicky took the market by storm. The brand successfully adopted synthetic practices, offering a range of scents like cinnamon, vanilla, almond, and musk—all artificially crafted. The accessibility and affordability of these synthetic perfumes meant that anyone could now purchase and enjoy fragrances.
Synthetic fragrances also spurred innovation in the perfume industry. By the 1890s, single-scent perfumes were gradually replaced by complex blends of "eight or twelve different extracts," as noted by author Goodman. These intricate combinations were presented in elegant, slim glass vials, appealing to the senses and aesthetics alike. Wealthy ladies, seeking to distinguish themselves from the lower classes, often demanded these more intricate, unsynthesized perfumes.
The Victorian era witnessed the fusion of natural and synthetic fragrances, with perfumers across the Channel leading the way in this new art form. This era of perfumery was characterized by exploration and creativity, with different pharmacists offering their unique interpretations of popular scents. The absence of trademark laws in the industry further encouraged experimentation and diversity in fragrance creation. The Victorian era, with its embrace of synthetic scents, paved the way for modern perfumery as we know it today.
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Popular fragrances
The Victorian era marked a significant shift in the world of perfumery, with the development of synthetic scents and breakthrough molecules that took fragrances to a whole new level. The perfumes of this era were generally simpler and more delicate than those of today, often evoking the scent of a particular flower or botanical ingredient. Here are some of the popular fragrances that characterised the Victorian era:
Eau de Cologne: At the beginning of the Victorian era, Eau de Cologne was the predominant fragrance. Created from neroli oil derived from orange blossoms and bitter orange tree flowers, it offered a sharp, clean scent. It was diluted with distilled water, making it an inexpensive option for both men and women.
Bergamot and Lemon Oil: By the middle of the Victorian era, bergamot and lemon oil emerged as the most popular fragrances for women, surpassing Eau de Cologne. They were often used in combination and scented a variety of products, from hand creams and hair pomades to pincushions.
Violet: The late Victorian era witnessed a fad for violet-scented perfumes, toilet waters, soaps, cold creams, sachets, and even tooth powder. The scent of violets was highly fashionable, and violet-based fragrances were widely sought after.
Fleurs de Bulgarie: Queen Victoria was a devotee of the British perfume house Creed. They created 'Fleurs de Bulgarie' for her in 1845, a heady blend of Bulgarian rose, musk, ambergris, and bergamot. She wore this fragrance throughout her reign, and an updated version remains a bestseller today.
Hammam Bouquet: This was the first perfume created by William Penhaligon in 1872. Inspired by the scent of Turkish baths, Hammam Bouquet added a unique fragrance to the Victorian perfume collection.
Synthetic Scents: The Industrial Revolution in the mid-1800s revolutionised perfumery with the development of synthetic scents. Perfumers began blending natural and synthetic ingredients, creating affordable fragrances for the masses. Popular synthetic scents included cinnamon, vanilla, almond, and musk.
The Victorian era saw a wide variety of fragrances, from delicate florals to complex blends of multiple extracts. Perfumes were an integral part of a Victorian lady's beauty regimen, enhancing her allure and sense of fashion.
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Bergamot and lemon oil
During the Victorian era, bergamot and lemon oil were popular fragrances, especially for women. They were used in combination or separately and were the signature smell of the middle years of the century. Bergamot and lemon oil surpassed Eau de Cologne in popularity, which was the predominant fragrance at the beginning of the Victorian era.
Ruth Goodman, the author of "How to Be a Victorian", writes:
> "Bergamot and lemon oil, sometimes employed separately but more often used in combination, was the signature smell of the middle years of the century. Almost everything was scented with this mixture from hand creams and hair pomades to pincushions. The fashionable scent of the mid-century was within the grasp of more people than Eau de Cologne had ever been. Even a working-class home, as long as the adult male was in full-time employment, could boast a pot of lemon and bergamot in some form."
Victorian perfumes were generally simpler than modern perfumes and consisted largely of florals and other botanicals, such as rose, violet, lemon, and lavender. They were rarely applied directly to the skin. Instead, perfumes were used to scent handkerchiefs, gloves, clothing, hand creams, hair pomades, and pincushions.
Bergamot, in particular, was highly valued by perfumers. G.W. Septimus Piesse, a nineteenth-century perfumer, writes in "The Art of Perfumery" (1857):
> "When bergamot is mixed with other essential oils it greatly adds to their richness, and gives a sweetness to spice oils attainable by no other means, and such compounds are much used in the most highly scented soaps. Mixed with rectified spirit in the proportions of about four ounces of bergamot to a gallon, it forms what is called 'extract of bergamot,' and in this state is used for the handkerchief."
Bergamot was also an ingredient in "Fleurs de Bulgarie", a perfume presented to Queen Victoria in 1845, which she wore throughout her reign.
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Floral and botanical perfumes
The Victorian era marked a significant shift in the world of perfumery, with the development of synthetic scents and breakthrough molecules that took fragrances to a whole new level. This period saw the creation of delicate and floral perfumes, often capturing the scent of specific flowers like jasmine, lavender, roses, and honeysuckle. Aromatic herbs such as marjoram, thyme, and rosemary were also commonly used, along with spices like cloves.
Queen Victoria, the era's namesake, set the tone for women's fragrances during this time. She was a devotee of the British perfume house Creed and wore their scent 'Fleurs de Bulgarie' throughout her reign. This perfume was a blend of Bulgarian rose, musk, ambergris, and bergamot. The popularity of bergamot extended beyond the royal court, as it was often mixed with other essential oils to enhance their richness and was commonly found in soaps and handkerchiefs.
Violets were also incredibly popular during the Victorian era, with their scent adorning various toiletries. Popular fragrances during this time included 'Mille Fleurs', 'Jockey Club', and 'New Mown Hay', which could be purchased from chemist's shops and pharmacies at affordable prices. By the end of the 19th century, British fragrances became even more intriguing, with perfumers experimenting with blends of natural and synthetic ingredients.
The Industrial Revolution played a significant role in the proliferation of perfume during the Victorian era. As cities became overcrowded and plagued by disease, perfume was used not only for its scent but also to mask the lack of cleanliness. It was during this time that perfumes began to be sold in powder form, making it easier to apply and conceal foul odours.
The Victorian era witnessed the rise of synthetic fixatives in perfumery, with the discovery of musk-like odors that could be blended with natural scents. This era laid the foundation for modern perfumery, as chemists and perfumers continued to innovate and create fragrances that captivated the senses and became a staple in the beauty routines of Victorian ladies.
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Frequently asked questions
Victorian era perfumes were generally floral and botanical, with scents of rose, violet, bergamot, lemon, lavender, jasmine, honeysuckle, rosemary, thyme, and cloves.
Yes, there were a variety of perfumes available, from inexpensive options sold at chemists' shops and pharmacies to more complex and expensive perfumes for the wealthy. Popular perfumes included Eau de Cologne, bergamot and lemon oil, and floral fragrances like jasmine and lavender.
Yes, the Victorian era saw the development of synthetic fragrances for the first time in history. These included scents like cinnamon, vanilla, almond, and musk. The availability of inexpensive synthetic fragrances made perfumes accessible to a wider range of people.
Some popular perfume brands included Creed, Guerlain, and Floris. Creed created a fragrance called 'Fleurs de Bulgarie' for Queen Victoria, which she wore throughout her reign. Guerlain's Jicky became an iconic scent, and Floris has been selling perfumes since 1730.
Perfumes were a part of a Victorian woman's beauty regime, but they were not known for wearing excessive amounts. Perfumes were often used to scent handkerchiefs, gloves, clothing, and cosmetic products like hair pomade or lip salve. They were also used to mask body odour due to a lack of regular bathing.
