Lance Carson
There is a growing demand for transparency in the fragrance industry, with consumers and environmental health organizations calling for full fragrance ingredient disclosure. This demand is driven by the desire to make safer and more informed purchases, as well as concerns about potential allergens and toxic chemicals. While companies are not legally required to disclose all fragrance ingredients, some have voluntarily started listing them. For instance, smaller companies like Seventh Generation and the Honest Company have disclosed ingredients in their cleaning products, while specialty boutique companies have also embraced transparency to meet consumers' desires for safer and greener products. Major companies like Unilever, Procter & Gamble, and Johnson & Johnson have also committed to disclosing fragrance ingredients, with Unilever pledging to do so for its personal care products by the end of 2018. This trend towards transparency is expected to continue, with consumers increasingly seeking out companies that provide detailed information about their products.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Companies that disclose all fragrance ingredients | Phlur, Abbott NYC, Procter & Gamble, SC Johnson, Seventh Generation, Honest Company, Unilever, Revlon, Target, Walmart |
| Companies that disclose some fragrance ingredients | L'Oreal, J&J |
| Companies that do not disclose fragrance ingredients | None explicitly mentioned |
| Reasons for disclosing ingredients | Building brand trust, meeting consumer demand, complying with EU labelling laws, complying with FDA requirements, complying with Walmart's Sustainable Chemistry Initiative |
| Reasons for not disclosing ingredients | Protecting trade secrets, maintaining competitive advantage |
| Industry initiatives promoting transparency | IFRA Transparency List, RIFM Safety Assessment Program, SmartLabel |
| Common fragrance ingredients | Citrus, resins, balsams, vanilla, benzoin, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam, "fantasy notes" like leather, beverages like Coca-Cola, fruits and vegetables |
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What You'll Learn
- Companies are not legally required to disclose all fragrance ingredients
- Some companies are disclosing ingredients to build brand trust
- Some companies are disclosing ingredients due to consumer and worker demands
- Some companies are disclosing ingredients to reinforce risk assessment and management
- Some companies are disclosing ingredients to comply with EU labelling laws
Companies are not legally required to disclose all fragrance ingredients
While companies are legally required to list ingredients on consumer cosmetic, personal care, and food products, fragrance and flavor ingredients are exempt from this rule. Under U.S. regulations, companies can simply list these ingredients as "fragrance" or "flavor." This is because fragrance formulas are considered trade secrets, and companies are not required to disclose them. The FDA rarely receives requests for trade secret status and grants them even more rarely. However, companies and individuals who manufacture or market cosmetics are legally responsible for ensuring their products are safe and properly labeled.
Some companies have started to disclose their products' ingredients online, and a few companies disclose all ingredients, including fragrance components. In 2014, Revlon began to voluntarily disclose the allergens in their products to comply with European Union labeling laws. In 2018, Unilever pledged to disclose fragrance ingredients down to a very small concentration in its personal care products using SmartLabel. Shortly afterward, Procter & Gamble said it would disclose fragrance ingredients online across all its products. In 2016, SC Johnson launched three Glade PlugIns Citrus Blossom products with full disclosure of fragrance ingredients. Abbott NYC and Phlur are other brands that list all their ingredients.
The IFRA Transparency List, published in 2022, provides a snapshot of the ingredients used by fragrance companies worldwide. It is based on a global survey of IFRA member companies and National Associations. The data is relevant to the industry's safety assessment program managed by the Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM). RIFM also manages a list of 'non-supported' materials, which means that RIFM has not received a sample or concentration data and cannot conduct a safety assessment. However, designation as a non-supported material does not mean that the material is unsafe.
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Some companies are disclosing ingredients to build brand trust
In recent years, there has been a growing trend of companies disclosing their fragrance ingredients to build trust with their customers. This movement is driven by consumers' increasing demand for safer, more transparent, and environmentally friendly products. While small companies in the cosmetics and personal care market were the first to embrace this trend, major players are now following suit. For instance, in 2019, Procter & Gamble, a large personal care and cleaning products company, pledged to disclose fragrance ingredients across all its products. This was preceded by a similar announcement from Unilever in 2018, which committed to revealing fragrance ingredients in its personal care products using SmartLabel.
Unilever, the world's second-largest cosmetic company, and Procter & Gamble, the largest consumer products company, are responding to calls from consumers and workers for increased transparency. By disclosing in-depth product and ingredient information, these companies aim to build trust with their customers. Providing full details enables shoppers to make informed purchasing decisions based on their health concerns. For instance, consumers concerned about fragrance sensitivities can choose fragrance-free products or carefully review the ingredient list.
Some companies are going beyond disclosing fragrance ingredients to also reveal allergens in their products. For instance, Revlon started voluntarily declaring allergens in 2014 to comply with European Union labeling laws. Similarly, the multinational giants Unilever, Procter & Gamble, and Johnson & Johnson have paved the way for fragrance ingredient disclosure in personal care and beauty products. These companies have provided specifics regarding where, how, and when they will begin disclosing fragrance ingredients.
Additionally, companies like Phlur and Abbott NYC have also gained recognition for listing all their ingredients. This transparency is particularly beneficial for consumers with sensitive skin, as it allows them to make informed choices. However, it is important to note that fragrance formulas are complex, and even with full disclosure, understanding all the components can be challenging. Nevertheless, consumers' increasing awareness and demand for transparency are driving companies to disclose their fragrance ingredients, fostering trust and enabling customers to make safer and more informed purchases.
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Some companies are disclosing ingredients due to consumer and worker demands
In the cosmetics and personal care market, smaller companies were the first to take on the transparency challenge. Over the last decade, boutique specialty companies have tapped into consumers' desire for safer, greener, and more transparent products. However, these companies have a small share of the market. Recently, major personal care product companies have taken steps toward greater transparency. For example, in 2014, Revlon began to voluntarily disclose the allergens in their products to comply with European Union labeling laws.
In 2013, Walmart announced its Sustainable Chemistry Initiative, with a goal to require all manufacturers that sell at Walmart and Sam's Club to disclose product ingredients on Walmart’s website. Manufacturers must also provide Walmart with full disclosure of ingredients, including fragrances, starting in 2015. According to the initiative’s most recent report in 2016, over 96% of product formulations are fully disclosed to the retailer, while 60% of personal care and 58% of household cleaning products have listed ingredients on Walmart's website.
In February 2018, Unilever pledged to disclose fragrance ingredients down to a very small, or de minimus, concentration in its personal care products using SmartLabel by the end of the year. SmartLabel is an online and mobile application that provides detailed information about consumer products. The initiative began in February, with Unilever listing more detailed ingredient information for some of its products across seven brands like Dove, Axe, and Suave. Shortly after Unilever's announcement, Procter & Gamble, which makes both personal care and cleaning products, said it would disclose fragrance ingredients online across all its products by 2019.
In the US, the FDA does not require pre-market approval for cosmetic products, but companies and individuals who manufacture or market cosmetics are responsible for ensuring that their products are safe and properly labelled. The FDA requires a list of ingredients under the Fair Packaging and Labelling Act (FPLA). However, under US regulations, fragrance and flavour ingredients can be listed simply as "Fragrance" or "Flavour".
The fragrance industry is responding to calls from consumers and workers for product ingredient transparency. Companies cite that disclosing in-depth product and ingredient information for home, beauty, and personal care shoppers builds brand trust. Providing full product information helps shoppers to assess product ingredients based on health concerns and make informed purchasing decisions.
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Some companies are disclosing ingredients to reinforce risk assessment and management
Consumers are increasingly demanding full fragrance ingredient disclosure to make safer and more informed purchases. Manufacturers are responsible for the safety of the ingredients they use in their products. However, under U.S. regulations, fragrance and flavour ingredients can be listed simply as "Fragrance" or "Flavour".
The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) publishes safety assessments in a peer-reviewed scientific journal and makes them available to the public via the open-access Fragrance Material Safety Resource Centre. The independent Expert Panel for Fragrance Safety also reviews all the safety assessments. RIFM manages a list of "non-supported" materials, meaning that it has not received a sample or concentration data and cannot conduct a safety assessment.
The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) Transparency List provides a snapshot of the ingredients used by fragrance companies worldwide. The 2022 List contains around 350 ingredients fewer than the previous edition, published in 2016. IFRA encourages members to have as many materials as possible assessed in the RIFM program to reinforce the risk assessment and management process.
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Some companies are disclosing ingredients to comply with EU labelling laws
The fragrance industry is a highly competitive market, with companies often reluctant to disclose their ingredients. However, some companies are now disclosing ingredients to comply with EU labelling laws and meet consumer demands for transparency. This trend towards transparency is driven by consumers' desire for safer and more natural products, and companies are recognising that if they do not disclose ingredients, their customers will find alternatives.
In 2014, Revlon began voluntarily disclosing allergens in their products to comply with EU laws. These allergens are not the fragrances themselves but separate ingredients within the fragrance or components of other ingredients. For example, essential oils and botanical extracts are often used in fragrances and can contain allergens.
Unilever, the second-largest cosmetic company in the world, has also made moves towards transparency. In 2016, the company pledged to disclose fragrance ingredients down to a very small concentration in its personal care products using SmartLabel by the end of 2018. This initiative has seen Unilever list more detailed ingredient information for some products across seven brands, including Dove, Axe and Suave.
Other large companies have also pledged to disclose ingredients, including Procter & Gamble, Johnson & Johnson, and SC Johnson, which owns brands like Windex and Shout. These companies are disclosing ingredients in their cleaning products, with SC Johnson releasing three Glade PlugIns Citrus Blossom products in 2016 with full fragrance ingredient disclosure.
In addition to these large companies, smaller companies have also been early adopters of transparency. For example, Phlur and Abbott NYC list all their ingredients, which is particularly helpful for consumers with sensitive skin.
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Frequently asked questions
In 2019, Procter & Gamble, which makes both personal care and cleaning products, pledged to disclose fragrance ingredients online across all its products. In the same year, Johnson & Johnson and Unilever also committed to disclosing fragrance ingredients for its adult product lines. Smaller companies like Seventh Generation and the Honest Company have also disclosed ingredients in their cleaning products. In 2014, Revlon began to voluntarily disclose the allergens in their products to comply with European Union labeling laws.
The IFRA Transparency List provides a snapshot of the ingredients used by fragrance companies around the world. The list is based on a global survey of IFRA member companies and National Associations. The Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM) publishes the resulting safety assessments in a peer-reviewed scientific journal and makes them available to the public via the open-access Fragrance Material Safety Resource Center.
A functional ingredient is "any basic substance necessary for a fragrance ingredient or compound’s functionality or stability." Functional ingredients include, but are not limited to, pigments, antioxidants, solvents, and plasticizers. A non-supported material is a designation given to an ingredient that RIFM has not received a sample or concentration data for and therefore cannot conduct a safety assessment.
