Antonio Mcgowan
There are many options for perfume bases, depending on the type of perfume you want to make. If you're making an ethanol-based spray perfume, the base is ethanol. For oil-based roll-on perfumes, there are many base options, including jojoba oil, vodka, and essential oils. Popular essential oils used as perfume bases include lavender, jasmine, sandalwood, and bergamot. When creating a perfume, it's important to consider the different notes, such as base, middle, and top notes, to achieve a harmonious blend. Additionally, the choice of base can be influenced by factors such as skin sensitivity, as some people may prefer oil-based perfumes to avoid the drying effect of alcohol.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Base for ethanol-based spray | Ethanol (190-proof neutral grain alcohol or SDA-40B alcohol) |
| Base for oil-blend perfumes | Jojoba oil, essential oils, vodka, vanilla extract |
| Base notes | Amber, oakmoss, patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, sandalwood, cinnamon |
| Middle notes | Coriander, palmarosa, marjoram, basil, rosemary, rose geranium, petitgrain, lavender |
| Top/head notes | Citrus, bergamot, jasmine, Brazilian orange, green apple, eucalyptus |
| Heart notes | Light and airy florals |
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What You'll Learn
Ethanol
If you are making your own perfume, you can use 190-proof neutral grain alcohol such as Everclear, or SDA-40B alcohol, depending on your area's liquor laws and taxes.
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Essential oils
When creating a perfume with essential oils, it is recommended to use a minimum of three different oils. These can be categorised into top, middle, and base notes. Top notes are explosive scents that evaporate quickly, while base notes are the foundation of the perfume and tend to be deeper, longer-lasting scents. Middle notes, or heart notes, fall somewhere in between. When mixing your perfume, it is generally recommended to add the base notes first, followed by the middle and then the top notes.
Some common base notes include patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, and sandalwood, as well as amber and oakmoss. These oils tend to have a deeper, earthy aroma. When choosing your base note, consider the scent family you want to create. For example, a woody scent family may include cedarwood as a base note, while a floral family may use rose geranium.
Carrier oils are an important component of essential oil perfumes. They help to dilute the concentrated essential oils, making them safer for the skin and prolonging the fragrance. Some popular carrier oils include jojoba oil, which resembles the skin's natural oils; fractionated coconut oil, which is lightweight and neutral-scented; sweet almond oil, which is rich in vitamins and nourishing; and grapeseed oil, which is lightweight, non-greasy, and enhances the fragrance.
When creating your perfume, it is important to experiment with different combinations and ratios of essential oils and carrier oils to find your preferred scent and strength. The process of making perfume with essential oils can be a fun and rewarding way to create a unique fragrance.
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Absolutes
In perfumery, the word "absolute" or "absolut" refers to a specific type of highly concentrated perfume extract. Absolutes are produced through solvent extraction, which involves using a solvent (such as hexane or ethanol) to extract fragrant compounds from plants or flowers. This process is different from steam distillation, which is commonly used to create essential oils, as it results in a higher concentration of fragrant compounds.
The process of creating absolutes through solvent extraction is as follows: First, plant material is extracted using a hydrocarbon solvent such as hexane to yield a substance called concrete. The concrete is then extracted with ethanol, and this ethanol extract is cooled to solidify waxes. It is then cold-filtered to yield a liquid extract. When the ethanol evaporates, an oil—the absolute—is left behind.
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Natural bases
Natural perfume bases are typically made from essential oils. These are derived from natural ingredients and are more affordable than synthetic fragrances. They also offer therapeutic benefits for the body, mind, and emotions, which synthetic perfumes do not.
When creating a natural perfume, it's important to consider the different notes that will make up the fragrance. The top note is the initial scent that appears when the perfume is first applied, and it usually disappears quickly. Common top notes include citrus fragrances such as lemon, orange, grapefruit, and bergamot. The middle note, or heart note, appears after the top note and is usually a floral scent, such as rose, lavender, or basil. The base note is the foundation of the perfume and appears last, lingering for the longest time. Common base notes include patchouli, vetiver, cedarwood, and vanilla.
When mixing a natural perfume, it's important to add the base notes first, followed by the middle and then the top notes. This helps the lighter top and middle notes retain their aroma for longer. It's also important to note that the ratios of each note can be adjusted to create the desired strength and smell. Additionally, natural perfume bases can be made with carrier oils such as jojoba or sweet almond oil, which help to dilute and carry the fragrance.
Some popular essential oils used as natural perfume bases include lavender, vanilla, cedarwood, rose, and jasmine. These oils can be blended to create unique fragrances, and they offer a more intimate and long-lasting alternative to alcohol-based perfumes. It's worth noting that some essential oils may cause skin irritation or allergic reactions, so it's important to proceed with caution and follow recommended ratios when creating natural perfumes.
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Synthetic bases
Synthetic base notes are an important component of modern perfumery. Synthetic fragrances are primarily made with artificial compounds and materials that have been developed in a laboratory to replicate the scent of natural ingredients. Synthetic base notes have been used in perfumery since the 19th century, when Paul Parquet, the founder of modern perfumery, first explored their use.
Synthetic base notes offer perfumers a wider range of creative possibilities and allow for more abstract olfactory forms. They can be used to reproduce the smell of fruits, such as strawberry, peach, coconut, plum, and raspberry, whose essence is impossible to extract naturally. Synthetic molecules can also enhance natural notes, such as adding a gourmand note to natural vanilla with a synthetic ingredient like vanillin or ethyl-maltol, which has a caramel scent.
Synthetic base notes also have the advantage of being more powerful and long-lasting than natural notes. They contain fixatives that help to balance volatile natural ingredients, making the fragrance last longer on the skin. This also means that synthetic fragrances have less impact on the environment, as the over-harvesting of natural ingredients like trees, plants, and flowers is reduced.
Some popular synthetic base notes include:
- Cashmeran: This synthetic accord gives a woody aroma with underlying spicy and floral qualities. It is often used to invoke the comforting, velvety smell and feel of cashmere.
- Muguet: This synthetic note highlights the delicate essence of the lily of the valley flower, which cannot be captured naturally.
- Synthetic musks: These replace natural musk, which is rarely used today as it is extracted from animals. Synthetic musks have a smooth, sensual, and slightly sweet aroma, earning CK One the title of the first 'skin-like' scent.
- Evernyl: This synthetic note captures the scent of bark and moss heated by the sun, taking you into the undergrowth.
- Ambrofix: Developed by Givaudan, Ambrofix has a characteristic ambergris scent obtained through biotechnology and is 100% renewable from sustainable sugar cane.
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Frequently asked questions
The base for an ethanol-based perfume spray is ethanol. It is recommended to use either 190-proof neutral grain alcohol or SDA-40B alcohol, depending on the relevant liquor laws and taxes in your area.
Jojoba oil is a popular choice for an oil-based perfume, as it provides a blank canvas. Other options include sweet almond oil, vanilla extract, and beeswax to create a solid perfume.
Essential oils that can be used as base notes in a perfume include patchouli, vetiver, frankincense, cedarwood, sandalwood, amber, oakmoss, jasmine, rose, and lavender.
