Katrina Rosales
Fragrances are made of a combination of synthetic chemicals and natural compounds. Synthetic fragrance ingredients can be nature-identical or artificial. Nature-identical synthetic fragrances are made from synthetically derived ingredients to have the same chemical composition as a fragrance found in nature. Artificial fragrances, on the other hand, are made from synthetic ingredients with a scent and/or chemical composition not known to be found in nature. The process of creating a fragrance involves combining different types of chemicals that react with each other. The individual atoms in the molecules bond with other atoms in predictable ways due to their charge, size, etc. Scent scientists use this knowledge to determine which chemicals to combine, in what order, and under what conditions.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of ingredients | Over 3,500 |
| Types of ingredients | Natural compounds, synthetic compounds, artificial compounds |
| Natural compounds | Derived from natural sources like flowers, blossoms, fruits, plants, and wood |
| Synthetic compounds | Nature-identical or artificial |
| Artificial compounds | Not found in nature |
| Examples of natural compounds | Henna, myrrh, cinnamon, juniper, rose, jasmine, osmanthus, plumeria, mimosa, tuberose, narcissus, scented geranium, cassie, ambrette, clove, vanilla, blackcurrant leaf, litsea cubeba, and juniper berry |
| Examples of synthetic compounds | Nitric acid, benzene, nitrobenzene, coumarin, synthetic violet, synthetic vanilla, citronellol |
| Examples of toxic ingredients | Beta-myrcene, Diethyl phthalate (DEP), DEHP, Benzophenone, Propylene glycol, Benzyl salicylate, Benzaldehyde, Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), Essential oils, Styrene |
| Health risks | Cancer, hormone disruption, reproductive harm, asthma, allergies, migraines, dermatitis |
| Environmental risks | Ozone pollution, fine particulate matter |
| Regulating bodies | International Fragrance Association (IFRA), Research Institute for Fragrance Materials (RIFM), U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) |
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What You'll Learn
Fragrances are made of thousands of chemicals
The process of creating a fragrance involves combining different types of chemicals, which react with each other due to the predictable ways in which their individual atoms bond. Scent scientists use their knowledge of chemistry to determine which chemicals to combine, in what order, and under what conditions. The goal is to create a unique scent with three distinct notes: a top note, a central or heart note, and a base note.
While some fragrance ingredients are derived from natural sources, such as flowers and plants, many are synthetic chemicals. The first synthetic perfume, created in the mid-1800s, was made from nitric acid and benzene and aptly named nitrobenzene. Today, fragrance chemicals are often referred to as "masking agents," as they are added to consumer products to cover up unpleasant odours, even in products claiming to be unscented.
The health risks associated with fragrance chemicals have led to calls for stricter regulation of the fragrance industry. While the U.S. Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does regulate fragrance ingredients as cosmetics, they do not approve or test cosmetic products before they are sold. As a result, advocacy groups are urging members of Congress to adopt legislation requiring full fragrance disclosure and stronger safety standards.
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Many fragrance chemicals are toxic
Fragrances are made up of dozens, sometimes hundreds, of chemicals. These chemicals are often referred to as "fragrance" or ""parfum"" on product labels, and manufacturers are not required to list the individual ingredients that make up a product's particular fragrance concoction. This lack of transparency makes it difficult for consumers to know exactly what chemicals they are being exposed to.
The International Fragrance Association (IFRA) lists 3,059 materials that are used in fragrance compounds, and of these, some have been linked to various adverse health effects, including cancer, reproductive toxicity, allergies, and sensitivities. For example, Butylphenyl methyl propionate, an aroma chemical used in fragrances, has been prohibited in Europe since 2000 due to concerns about its sensitizing properties, yet it may still be found in some US fragrance products.
Additionally, fragrance chemicals can be harmful to the environment. Chemical vapors in fragrances, known as volatile organic compounds, contribute to ozone pollution and the formation of fine particulates. This further exacerbates the health risks associated with fragrance chemicals, as these pollutants can be inhaled and lead to respiratory issues.
Furthermore, some fragrance chemicals are known to cause endocrine disruption, which can have far-reaching consequences on the body, including reproductive health. Benzophenone, for instance, is linked to endocrine disruption and organ system toxicity, and studies suggest it may lead to several types of cancers. Another chemical, Butylated Hydroxytoluene (BHT), is known to irritate the skin and eyes and affect growth rates. It may also impact the lungs and potentially other organs if inhaled.
The potential health and environmental risks associated with fragrance chemicals have led to calls for stricter regulation and full fragrance disclosure. Consumers are encouraged to be cautious and choose safer products to reduce their exposure to toxic fragrance chemicals.
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Fragrance chemicals are rarely listed on labels
Fragrances are made up of dozens, sometimes hundreds, of chemicals. These chemicals are often toxic and are omitted from personal care and cleaning product labels. This is because fragrances are considered \"trade secrets", protected by the Fair Packaging and Labeling Act (FPLA). The fragrance industry regulates itself, meaning safety testing does not need to be confirmed by regulators before products are sold to consumers.
The lack of transparency in fragrance labelling makes it difficult for consumers to make informed choices about the products they purchase. According to scientists, some of the chemicals used in fragrances are known to cause cancer, hormone disruption, and reproductive harm. For instance, Beta-myrcene, a known carcinogen, was found in 3/7 cleaning products and 19/25 personal care products. Diethyl phthalate (DEP), an endocrine-disrupting compound (EDC), was found in cleaning and personal care products.
The potential health risks of fragrance chemicals are not limited to acute effects like allergies and sensitivities. Some chemicals, such as phthalates, have been linked to long-term health issues. Studies have shown that more than 75% of fragranced products contain phthalates, which can act like hormones in the human body and cause a range of health problems, including cancer, reproductive toxicity, endocrine disruption, and respiratory problems.
The Environmental Working Group advises consumers to read the word "fragrance" or "parfum" on labels as "hidden chemicals" and to choose fragrance-free products for the safest option. However, it is important to note that even products labelled "unscented" may contain fragrance ingredients to mask the unpleasant smell of other ingredients.
Advocacy groups like Breast Cancer Prevention Partners (BCPP) are calling for legislation that requires full fragrance disclosure and stricter regulation of the fragrance industry. BCPP has developed a Red List of Chemicals of Concern in cleaning, personal care, and fragrance products to help companies phase out harmful substances.
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Natural and synthetic fragrances
Natural fragrances are complex compositions of natural aromatic raw materials such as essential oils, fractions of essential oils, isolates, exudates like resins, distillates, extracts, and volatile concentrates. They are generally made from ingredients harvested from sustainably grown plants rather than from petrochemicals. Natural fragrances are believed to be greener and more sustainable by many consumers. They are also perceived to be safer and more healthful and therapeutic. However, they are inconsistent and take a toll on the environment. The process of harvesting scents from trees and plants has caused deforestation throughout the world, and extracting scents from animals is a long and painful process. Natural fragrances also have a shorter shelf life of 1-2 years.
Synthetic fragrances, on the other hand, are developed in laboratories and are easier to manufacture as their components are more reproducible from lot to lot. They are made through chemical reactions that have no corresponding natural aroma chemical. Synthetic fragrances can be stronger, longer-lasting, more complex, sophisticated, and less expensive than natural fragrances. They are also not susceptible to the same issues as natural fragrances, as they are not dependent on natural sources. Synthetic perfumes can last up to five years, and synthetic notes are able to last longer thanks to fixatives.
The first synthetic perfume was made from nitric acid and benzene and was called nitrobenzene. Synthetic fragrances are created through the study of how different chemicals combine through their predictable ways of combining based on their charge, size, etc. This knowledge is then used to determine which chemicals to put together, in what order, and under what conditions.
While synthetic fragrances have their advantages, it is important to note that natural fragrances are not inherently safer or better for the environment. In fact, some natural fragrances can have troubling health effects, and the farming of natural oils can have a significant impact on the environment. Therefore, it is important for consumers to be aware of the potential impacts of their choices and for fragrance producers to help educate consumers about the various options available to protect themselves and the planet.
Ultimately, the choice between natural and synthetic fragrances depends on individual preferences and needs.
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Fragrance chemicals can cause health issues
Fragrances are made up of dozens, sometimes hundreds, of chemicals. While some of these chemicals are safe for humans and the environment, others have never been tested for safety. The lack of transparency around fragrance ingredients makes it difficult for consumers to make informed choices and limits the development of health and safety policies.
Fragrance chemicals have been linked to various adverse health effects, including both acute and chronic conditions. Acute effects include respiratory issues such as asthma attacks, breathing difficulties, and allergies. Chronic exposure to fragrance chemicals has been associated with more severe health issues, including cancer, birth defects, endocrine disruption, and reproductive harm.
One study found that 33.1% of a sample population reported adverse health effects from fragrance products, with a higher proportion of females (64.0%) than males (36.0%). Age also plays a role in the symptoms and side effects experienced, with children being more vulnerable to the effects of certain chemicals due to their developing immune systems.
Specific harmful fragrance chemicals include Beta-myrcene, a carcinogen found in many cleaning and personal care products, and Diethyl phthalate (DEP), an endocrine disruptor. Other concerning chemicals include DEHP, Benzophenone, and Propylene glycol, which have been detected in various personal care products.
The Campaign for Safe Cosmetics and the Breast Cancer Prevention Partners (BCPP) are advocating for stricter regulations and full fragrance disclosure. They encourage consumers to endorse the Safe Cosmetics and Personal Care Products Act of 2019 and for companies to provide safety data and full ingredient lists, including fragrance chemicals, on product labels.
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Frequently asked questions
Fragrances are made of substances with strong-smelling organic compounds that have characteristic, pleasant odors. They are made up of dozens, sometimes hundreds, of chemicals.
Some fragrance chemicals include Beta-myrcene, Diethyl phthalate (DEP), DEHP, Benzophenone, and Propylene glycol.
Fragrances can be made from both natural and synthetic ingredients. Natural compounds are derived from natural sources like plants, while synthetic fragrance ingredients can be nature-identical or artificial.
Flowers and blossoms are the most common source of perfume aromatics, including roses, jasmine, osmanthus, plumeria, and citrus blossoms.
Fragrances are made by combining different types of chemicals that react with each other. Scent scientists determine which chemicals to combine, in what order, and under what conditions.
