Katrina Rosales
The world of fragrance is complex, with hundreds of scents to choose from. To simplify the process for consumers, fragrances are classified into families, each with distinctive characteristics. The fragrance classification system, also known as the Fragrance Wheel, was invented by scent expert Michael Edwards. The wheel is a circular diagram that illustrates the different scent families and subfamilies and their relationships to one another. While there is some debate in the fragrance community over the organisation and description of each family, most agree on the following four main fragrance families: floral, oriental (also known as amber), woody, and fresh.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of families | 4-7 |
| Family names | Floral, Woody/Wood, Amber, Fresh, Oriental, Citrus, Green |
| Description | Feminine, soft, powdery, fresh-cut flowers |
| Warm, opulent, incense-like, dry | |
| Rich, warm, full-bodied, spicy, herby, dry | |
| Light, bright, clean, zesty, tangy, juicy, aromatic, oceanic | |
| Exotic, seductive, floral, sweet, warm | |
| Sharp, tangy, juicy, zesty, energising, summery | |
| Natural, lively, crisp | |
| Sweet, edible, tropical | |
| Subfamilies | Soft, woody, amber, soft amber |
| Aromatic, citrus, green, water | |
| Fruity, floral, soft floral | |
| Woods, mossy woods, dry woods | |
| Common notes | Iris, jasmine, rose, lily of the valley, orange blossom, peach, pear, apple, bergamot, lemon, sea salt, kiwi, pineapple, vanilla, myrrh, anise, tobacco, cinnamon, sandalwood, patchouli, cedar, vetiver, resins, white florals |
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What You'll Learn
Woody
The versatility of woody fragrances makes them suitable for all seasons, although they are particularly favoured during the colder months. Their earthy and opulent character provides a comforting and grounding experience, making them a popular choice for those seeking a sophisticated and distinctive scent. The woody fragrance family showcases the creativity and complexity of the perfumery world, where the interplay of different notes creates an endless array of olfactory experiences.
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Floral
Other floral notes include lavender, which has been used for centuries as a natural remedy for sleep and healing due to its calming aroma. The scent can range between sweet and sharp depending on the variation of the plant. French lavender, for example, has a sweet, floral aroma, while Dutch lavender has a crisp and medicinal scent.
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Amber/Oriental
The fragrance family of Amber/Oriental is a classic in niche perfumery, with an enveloping power and sensuality that promises a pure sensory experience. This family of fragrances is ideal for intimate evenings and refined occasions, where the only thing that matters is engaging and captivating the senses. The Amber/Oriental family is perfect for those seeking a unique and unforgettable scented experience.
The Amber/Oriental family, previously known as just Oriental, is a growing category of fragrance compositions. These fragrances are often exotic, coconut-like, and creamy, with a warm, heavy, and diffusive richness. They are built around Ambergris, a raw material prized in the world of perfumery, and can include balsams, resins, and exotic spices. The ancient Greeks, Egyptians, and Romans used similar ingredients for sacred incense and unguents. The first modern-day perfume in this category was Shalimar by Guerlain, formulated in 1921 with a new synthetic molecule known as vanillin.
Oriental perfumes have a fascinating history and an enticing aura, with an archetype of the oriental accord considered to be Shalimar by Guerlain from 1925. Over the years, these fragrances have been associated with women of intense, exotic, and elusive charm, with distant worlds full of mysterious and voluptuous cultures. The term ''Oriental' in the perfume world refers to a historic fragrance family classification that encompasses notes like amber, sandalwood, coumarin, orris, vanilla, and gum resins. However, in recent times, the term has become outdated and offensive to many, with some replacing it with 'Ambrée'.
Oriental fragrances are generally composed of tonka bean, elegant vanilla, almond-like vanillin, nutty coumarin, leathery labdanum, and sensual patchouli. They are often described as warm, heavy, and diffusive, with a rich, sweet, and nutty character. The fragrances within this family are always formulated around an amber accord, a blend of elegant vanilla and rich, complex labdanum. Amber/Oriental fragrances tend to be heavy on the base notes, which tend to last longer and linger sensually on the skin.
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Fresh
The fresh fragrance family is associated with light, bright, sparkling, and clean aromas. These fragrances are lively and energetic, with freshness derived primarily from citrus and fruity top notes. The fresh fragrance family includes zingy, aromatic compositions with underlying woodsy notes. Common notes include citrus, white flowers, bergamot, lemon, sea salt, apple, kiwi, and pineapple. The fresh fragrance family has four subfamilies: water, aromatic, green, and citrus.
The water subfamily captures aquatic, sea, rain, and watery notes. The smell of water and air is often described as the smell of nothing. It is often created using synthetic molecules to add lightness and space to a fragrance. One of the most famous aqueous ingredients is Calone, commonly used in all aquatic, sea, rain, and watery notes.
The aromatic subfamily is also known as the Fougere, which means fern in French. The citrus subfamily has roots in the classic "eau de cologne", named after the city of Cologne, Germany, where it was first created. Citrus fragrances tend to be simple, not very long-lasting, and linear. Common notes include orange, mandarin, and bergamot.
The green subfamily gives a natural, lively, and crisp feeling. It includes scents of freshly mowed grass and crushed leaves.
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Citrus
The world of fragrance uses families to group and classify ingredients and perfumes. The fragrance wheel, a round diagram that illustrates the different scent families and subfamilies, is a helpful tool for understanding how fragrances are organised.
The citrus fragrance family is defined by zesty, tangy, juicy, and fresh notes. These fragrances are typically very sharp and fleeting, providing an immediate burst of freshness and energy. The essential oils used in these perfumes are usually extracted from the zest of citrus fruits, including orange, mandarin, and bergamot.
Bergamot, with its nuanced complexity, and lemongrass, imparting an herbal element, further enrich the composition of citrus perfumes. The interplay of citrus with exquisite floral, woody, or oriental amber elements creates a harmonious symphony on the skin. The versatility of citrus notes allows them to seamlessly blend with scents from other fragrance families, resulting in unique subfamilies that transform the overall character of the perfume.
The use of citrus in perfumery can be traced back to ancient civilisations, particularly in regions where citrus fruits were abundant. Ancient Egyptians, Greeks, and Romans recognised the fragrant qualities of citrus peels, using them to create scented oils and balms. During the medieval and Renaissance periods, citrus notes gained popularity in European courts and among the aristocracy. The widespread availability of synthetic fragrance compounds in the 20th century allowed perfumers to create more complex and long-lasting citrus fragrances.
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Frequently asked questions
Fragrance families are groups of fragrances that share common olfactory characteristics.
There are four main fragrance families: floral, oriental (or amber), woody, and fresh. However, some sources state that there are six or seven fragrance families.
The subfamilies of the floral fragrance family include fruity, floral, and soft floral. Common notes in this family include iris, jasmine, rose, orange blossom, and lily of the valley.
The subfamilies of the fresh fragrance family include water, aromatic, green, and citrus. Common notes in this family include citrus, white flowers, bergamot, lemon, sea salt, apple, kiwi, and pineapple.
The subfamilies of the amber fragrance family include woody amber, amber, and soft amber. Common notes in this family include orange blossom, vanilla, myrrh, anise, tobacco, spices, and amber.
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