Katrina Rosales
Jasmine, a genus of evergreen shrubs from the olive family, is a highly sought-after fragrance derived from the blossoms of the jasmine plant. With its sweet, floral, and musky scent, jasmine is widely used in perfumes, cosmetics, and scented products. The scent of jasmine is associated with warm evenings and exotic locales, making it a popular choice for creating perfumes and colognes. The fragrance of jasmine is known to evoke feelings of romance, relaxation, and luxury, and it is also believed to have mood-boosting and therapeutic properties. The complex chemistry of jasmine's essential oils, along with its various species, growing conditions, and processing techniques, contributes to its distinct and multifaceted fragrance profile.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Common species used in perfumery | Jasminum grandiflorum, Jasminum sambac, Jasminum officinale, Jasminum auriculatum, Jasminum fluminense |
| Other names for Jasminum grandiflorum | Spanish jasmine, royal jasmine, jasmine odorant |
| Other names for Jasminum sambac | Arabian jasmine, Tuscan jasmine, night jasmine |
| Other names for Jasminum officinale | Common jasmine, white jasmine |
| Other names for Jasminum auriculatum | N/A |
| Other names for Jasminum fluminense | Brazilian jasmine |
| Fragrance notes | Sweet, floral, spicy, green, musky, honey-like, slightly medicinal |
| Health and wellness benefits | Relaxing, soothing, aphrodisiac, antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, anti-aging |
| Countries of origin | Iran, Asia, Europe, North America, India, China, France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain, Egypt |
| Number of species | Over 200 |
| Number of flowers needed to produce 1ml of jasmine oil | 8,000 |
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What You'll Learn
Jasmine's scent composition
Jasmine is a common ingredient in perfumery, and its scent is often described as rich, intense, sweet, and floral, with green, musky, and spicy undertones. The unique fragrance of jasmine is derived from a combination of its chemical constituents, including methyl jasmonate and various other compounds.
Methyl jasmonate, a compound formed from linolenic acid, is an important contributor to the scent of jasmine. It is a plant hormone that regulates growth and development, and its structure is similar to prostaglandins, which play a role in forming pain sensations in mammals. Methyl jasmonate was discovered by Edouard Demole's team in 1957, and it has since become a significant material in the fragrance industry.
The jasmine plant, with its dark green leaves and small white or yellow flowers, is native to Asia and was first cultivated in Persia around 2,000 years ago. Over time, it spread to other regions, including India, China, Europe, and North America. Today, jasmine is grown for the fragrance industry in various countries, including India, France, Morocco, Algeria, Spain, and Egypt.
There are over 200 species of jasmine, but the two most prized members of the white-flowered jasmine family for perfumery are Jasminum grandiflorum and Jasminum sambac. Jasminum grandiflorum, also known as Spanish jasmine or royal jasmine, is highly valued for its soft, mellow, and sensual floral fragrance. It is widely cultivated in France, China, India, Egypt, and other countries for perfumery. On the other hand, Jasminum sambac, or Arabian jasmine, is known for its exhilarating and exotic aroma, often used in oriental perfumes.
The scent of jasmine is extracted from the flowers, which are typically hand-picked in the early morning when they are most fragrant. The traditional method of extraction was enfleurage, where flowers were pressed into layers of fat to absorb their scent. Today, solvent-based extraction methods are more commonly used. The extracted jasmine absolute is then blended with other essential oils to create unique fragrances.
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The species of jasmine
Jasmine is a genus of shrubs and vines in the olive family of Oleaceae. It contains around 200 species native to tropical and warm temperate regions of Eurasia, Africa, and Oceania. The name jasmine comes from the Old French 'jessemin', derived from the Persian 'yāsamin', which is rooted in the Middle Persian word 'yāsaman' or 'yāsamīn' in Arabic. The Persian name is also the origin of the genus name, Jasminum.
Jasmine is widely cultivated for its fragrant flowers, which are typically white or yellow, and, in rare cases, slightly reddish. The flowers are borne in cymose clusters with a minimum of three flowers, though they can also appear individually on the ends of branchlets. The shrubs can be erect, spreading, or climbing, and the leaves are borne in opposing or alternating arrangements. They can be simple, trifoliate, or pinnate. The fruit in most species is a two-lobed black berry.
Jasmine absolute is widely used in perfumery and fragrances for cosmetics and toiletries to impart unique floral scents. It is also used in traditional holistic medicine and aromatherapy to relieve stress, anxiety, nervous tension, depression, and exhaustion. The most important species of jasmine in perfumery is white jasmine, or common jasmine (Jasminum officinale). It is native to Iran and is the national flower of Pakistan. It can be found in the wild in the Himalayas but is easy to cultivate, which is why it is widespread across the Mediterranean.
Another variety of white jasmine is royal jasmine (Jasminum officinale L. var. grandiflorum), also known as Spanish jasmine, Catalan jasmine, and jasmine odorant. It is widely cultivated for perfumery and can be found in France, China, India, Egypt, and other countries. A recent competitor to royal jasmine is jasmine sambac, or Arabian jasmine (Jasminum sambac). This species is native to Southern Asia and is the national flower of Indonesia, the Philippines, and Indonesia. Its absolute has a much lower indole content and a higher content of farnesene, as well as the presence of cis-3-hexenyl acetate (leaf alcohol), which gives it a green note.
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Growing conditions and processing
Jasmine is a well-known fragrant flower from the Oleaceae family, which consists of 200+ species of perennial plants. It is a vine usually grown outdoors, but some varieties can be grown as houseplants. The genus Jasminum contains more than 200 vines and shrubs. Common jasmine or Poet's jasmine (Jasminum officinale), also called True Jasmine, is a deciduous vine with clusters of starry, pure-white flowers that bloom all summer. It is a twining climber with rich green leaves that have five to nine leaflets, each up to 2½ inches long. The very fragrant flowers are up to 1 inch in diameter.
Growing Conditions
Jasmine is native to Asia and is best planted in the spring after the danger of frost has passed. It grows vigorously (1 to 2 feet per year, up to 20 feet) and looks stunning climbing a large pergola, fence, or very large trellis. It can also be pruned as a shrub near the house or a walk so that its intense fragrance can be enjoyed. If grown as a twining vine, jasmine will need to be supported on an arbor or trellis. As a shrub, jasmine can get lanky and semi-vining, so it needs frequent pruning. Common jasmine grows to a height of 10 to 15 feet as a lanky, semi-vining shrub, growing 12 to 24 inches a year. Winter jasmine shrubs grow to 4 feet high and 7 feet wide. If you’re growing jasmine as a shrub border, you can set them at least 8 feet apart. Place in a partly sunny spot to encourage robust growth.
Jasmine blooms profusely and reliably as long as the plants are kept warm, evenly moist, and given enough bright sun exposure. Different jasmine species bloom at different times of the year according to their USDA growing zones. For example, pink jasmine is strictly a late winter/early spring bloomer, while royal jasmine can flower almost all year long in its hardiness zone. Bloom periods vary according to species and may be as brief as one or two months. Flowers may be single or double, with single blooms usually tubular and star-shaped with five petals. They appear singly or in clusters of three blooms that each have four to nine petals.
Jasmine should be planted in organically rich, sandy loam that drains well. Container plants benefit by adding bark and peat moss to the potting medium. Check soil pH for a level between 6.5 and 7.5, neutral to slightly alkaline. Jasmine, both shrubs and vines, prefer soil that is not too wet but not too dry. The goal is to keep roots evenly moist. Use a moisture meter to help you decide if you're unsure. Water garden-grown varieties once weekly and more often during hot weather as needed. Irrigate potted plants twice to three times weekly when the top inch of soil gets dry. Feed weekly with a high-potash fertiliser in summer, tying in young shoots to their supports as and when you need to. In autumn, it's a good idea to mulch around the base of the plant with well-rotted manure, compost or leaf mould.
Processing
Jasmine absolute is widely used in perfumery and fragrances for cosmetics and toiletries to impart unique floral scents. In traditional holistic medicine and in aromatherapy, jasmine is considered one of the most effective products to relieve stress, anxiety, nervous tension, depression and exhaustion. It can also be used as an antiseptic (and anti-viral) and as an anti-inflammatory agent. Classic French fragrances such as Chanel N°5 and Miss Dior owe much of their existence to jasmine.
A variety of white jasmine, called royal jasmine (Jasminum officinale L. var. grandiflorum), also known as Spanish jasmine, Catalan jasmine, and jasmine odorant, is widely cultivated with the aim of obtaining extracts for perfumery. It can be found in France, China, India, Egypt, and other countries. Eight million hand-picked jasmine flowers (about 1000 kg) are required to make 2.3 kilos of concrete, which yields just 1 kilogram of jasmine absolute. It is estimated that 5-6 tons of royal jasmine absolute are produced annually. The high cost of perfumery jasmine materials and their exceptional demand have pushed chemists to research jasmine's scent composition.
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Jasmine's use in perfumery
Jasmine is a highly valued ingredient in perfumery for its sweet, floral, and heady aroma. It is a versatile note that can be morphed and moulded to produce a range of aromas, making it suitable for a variety of perfumes. It is also used to add depth and complexity to a fragrance, particularly when blended with other floral notes or paired with spicy or woody notes.
The jasmine flower is native to tropical and subtropical regions and is believed to have first been used in perfumery in ancient India, where it was employed in traditional Ayurvedic medicine and to make fragrant offerings to deities. The use of jasmine in perfumery then spread to other parts of Asia, Europe, and the Middle East through trade and cultural exchange.
There are over 200 species of jasmine, but the two most commonly used in perfumery are jasmine sambac and jasmine grandiflorum. Jasmine sambac, also known as Arabian jasmine, has a strong, sweet, musky, and sultry scent with a hint of fruitiness. It is often used to perfume green tea and is the variety celebrated in the well-known Chinese folk song "Mo Li Hua." Jasmine grandiflorum, on the other hand, has a softer, more floral, fresh, and green scent. It is cultivated in various countries, including France, China, India, and Egypt, specifically for its use in perfumery.
The process of extracting jasmine absolute is labour-intensive and costly, requiring approximately eight million hand-picked jasmine flowers to produce just one kilogram of the absolute. This makes it one of the most expensive raw materials in perfumery. To address this, synthetic jasmine has been developed by using chemical compounds to replicate the scent of the jasmine flower. Synthetic jasmine is more cost-effective, readily available, and environmentally friendly, making it a preferred choice for some perfumers.
The discovery of hedione, a molecule derived from jasmine, revolutionized the fragrance industry. Initially used in micro-quantities, hedione is now a key ingredient in many perfumes, enhancing the scent and providing freshness.
Classic French fragrances such as Chanel N°5, Shalimar, and Arpège, as well as modern perfumes like Le Gemme Gyan and Musc Nude, showcase the versatility and enduring popularity of jasmine in perfumery.
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The extraction process
The extraction of fragrance from jasmine flowers is a complex and delicate process. The traditional method, called Enfleurage, involves using flat plates of inert fat, usually pig fat, to absorb the fragrance of freshly picked jasmine flowers. This process is repeated over several hours, with spent flowers being replaced with fresh ones, until the fat is strongly scented with jasmine. The resulting pomade can be used as-is or further processed to extract the perfumery ingredients. However, this method is rarely used today due to its time-consuming nature.
A more modern and efficient approach to jasmine fragrance extraction is through the creation of a "concrete". This involves using a solvent like hexane to extract the volatile components from the jasmine flowers. The flowers are soaked in hexane for several hours, and then the solution is carefully filtered and evaporated to obtain a solid "concrete". This concrete is then dissolved in ethanol and refrigerated to a temperature of around -20°C for 48 hours, causing the waxes and fats to precipitate and separate from the fragrance.
Another method mentioned in forums is a crude form of extraction using alcohol or oil as a carrier. This involves covering jasmine petals with alcohol or oil and allowing them to infuse in a dark place for 48 hours. The petals are then removed, and the essential oil is extracted by squeezing the petals into the alcohol or oil. To enhance the fragrance, additional ingredients such as oil of cedar or sandalwood can be added as fixatives.
For those seeking a more intense jasmine fragrance, a process similar to Enfleurage called maceration can be employed. This method involves chopping jasmine petals finely and infusing them in a carrier oil, such as extra-virgin olive oil, safflower oil, sunflower oil, or sweet almond oil. About 5% wheat germ oil or Vitamin E oil is added to prevent the scented oil from turning rancid. The mixture is then placed in direct sunlight for three weeks, with daily shaking, before being strained through a sieve or cheesecloth. To speed up the process, the mixture can be heated in a bain-marie or slow cooker.
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Frequently asked questions
Jasmine is a captivating and aromatic scent derived from the blossoms of the jasmine plant. It is known for its delicate and sweet-smelling flowers. The fragrance is widely sought after for its rich and intoxicating aroma, often evoking feelings of romance, relaxation, and elegance.
The fragrance of jasmine is owed to two molecules: indole and methyl dihydro jasmonate. Indole adds a dash of animal-like allure to the scent, while methyl dihydro jasmonate is responsible for the flower's warm, fresh aroma.
Jasmine is commonly used in perfumes, colognes, essential oils, and scented products. It is also used in aromatherapy, as it is considered effective in relieving stress, anxiety, nervous tension, depression, and exhaustion.
