Seamus Hammond
Guerlain's Chamade is a popular floral-spicy fragrance for women that was first launched in 1969. It has since been re-issued in a new version, which is lighter and less powerful than the original, with a slightly candied floral note. The scent of Chamade evolves over time, starting with aldehydes, bergamot, jasmine, hyacinth, black currant, and galbanum, and ending with amber, sandalwood, tonka, vetiver, vanilla, and musk, among other notes. The vintage version of Chamade is described as plunging your face into a pollen-filled bouquet of fresh flowers, while the latest version is said to have a Turkish vibe.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Perfumer | Paul Guerlain |
| Year | 1969 |
| Inspiration | Francoise Sagan's novel "La Chamade" |
| Fragrance Type | Floral-spicy |
| Fragrance Notes | Aldehydes, bergamot, jasmine, hyacinth, black currant, rose, lily-of-the-valley, lilac, galbanum, clove, ylang-ylang, amber, sandalwood, tonka, vetiver, vanilla, benzoin, iris, musk, Peru balsam, Tolu balsam |
| Similar Perfumes | Chanel Nº19, Guerlain Mitsouko, Hermès 24 Faubourg, Chanel No. 22, Guerlain Nahema |
| Latest Version | Chamade Eau de Toilette (2021) |
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What You'll Learn
Notes of Guerlain Chamade
Guerlain Chamade, created by Paul Guerlain in 1969, is a complex fragrance that evolves over time, offering a unique and artistic scent journey. Here is a detailed breakdown of its notes:
Top Notes
The opening of Guerlain Chamade is sharp and sparkling, characterised by aldehydes, bergamot, and green notes. The prominent note of hyacinth adds a cut-grass-like freshness, while galbanum contributes to its green, leafy aroma. The top notes also feature jasmine, black currant, and lemons, creating a crisp and slightly aldehydic first impression.
Heart Notes
As the fragrance develops, heart notes of rose, lily-of-the-valley, lilac, and clove emerge. The rose note is sprinkled with cloves, adding a unique twist. The heart of the perfume is a tender, dusty bouquet, with buttery ylang-ylang providing a smooth, sweet touch.
Base Notes
The base of Guerlain Chamade is where its complexity truly shines. It features sandalwood, vetiver, tonka, vanilla, musk, and balsamic notes like benzoin and Peru balsam. These base notes give the fragrance depth and warmth, creating a cosy and comforting dry-down that lingers on the skin.
Evolution
Guerlain Chamade is known for its evolution on the skin. Over time, it transforms from sharp and green to a warmer, powdery-sweet floral scent, reminiscent of a lush garden in early sunset. The dry-down is where the sweetness softens, and the fragrance settles into a cosy, delicate aroma.
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Chamade vintage vs. modern
The vintage version of Chamade by Guerlain is described as an explosion of yellow pollen and beautiful spring flowers, wafting from the skin like a spring wind. It features notes of ylang-ylang, jasmine, galbanum, hyacinth, and woods. The dry-down is a gorgeous balmy sandalwood and rose that lasts all day.
The modern version of Chamade is considered a shadow of its former self, with a lighter eau de toilette and a stronger vanilla note. It is thinner and more diluted, with a fruity and powdery scent. While the modern version is still considered a beautiful composition, it is a puerile shadow of its formal grandmother. The scent is more lighthearted and modern, with a playful take on the original.
The vintage version of Chamade is an intense yellow perfume with a sharp opening of aldehydes, galbanum, and lemons. It has a piercing, crystalline sharpness that slowly yields to a spicy yellow pollen smell, with a warm, fuzzy glow underneath. The florals are pastel and muted, with a powdery warmth that lingers like a light blanket.
The modern version of Chamade is presented in the new bee bottle with an orange tag, featuring a yellow-tinted fragrance. It opens with a sparkling, slightly aldehydic scent, with green-tinged hyacinth, black currant, and galbanum. The scent is green, crisp, and woody, with a warm, earthy style. As it dries down, it becomes warmer and sweeter, with a softer sweetness in the later stages.
The vintage version of Chamade is a stunning, glorious fragrance with a radiant, heady scent. It is a rich, floral scent with a glowingly golden and delicious tone. The ylang-ylang note is particularly prominent, creating a glowingly golden and delicious fragrance.
The modern version of Chamade is considered pretty and magnificent, with sharp green top notes. However, the scent is not as strong as the vintage version, and it needs to be reapplied after a few hours. The dry-down is too sweet and simple compared to the vintage version, and it is not as long-lasting.
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Similar perfumes to Chamade
Chamade by Guerlain is a popular floral-spicy fragrance for women that was first launched in 1969. It has top notes of aldehydes, bergamot, jasmine, hyacinth, black currant, and galbanum. The middle notes are rose, lily-of-the-valley, lilac, clove, ylang-ylang, and jasmine. The base notes are amber, sandalwood, tonka, vetiver, vanilla, benzoin, iris, musk, Peru balsam, and Tolu balsam.
- Chanel No. 19: This perfume is similar to the initial green and woody scent of Chamade, with a hint of Chanel's signature aldehydes.
- Guerlain Samsara: Samsara also has a similar opening to Chamade, with a rich and woody scent.
- Guerlain Mitsouko: Mitsouko is another Guerlain perfume that Chamade is often compared to, with its warm, dusty-earthy floral and woody base notes.
- Hermès 24 Faubourg: This perfume is said to be similar to Chamade, although specific notes were not mentioned.
- Guerlain Nahema: Nahema is another fragrance by Guerlain that is said to have similar notes to Chamade, particularly in its newer formulations.
- Chanel No. 22: This Chanel perfume is described as having aldehydic notes similar to Chamade, although it is less intense.
While these perfumes share some similarities with Chamade, it is important to note that Chamade is considered by some to be a unique fragrance with a complex and intricate composition.
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Jean-Paul Guerlain's perfumes
Jean-Paul Guerlain is a renowned perfumer and a member of the Guerlain family, one of the most prominent names in the perfume industry. He was born on October 9, 1937, in Neuilly-sur-Seine, France, and is the grandson of Jacques Guerlain, the famous perfumer who created classics such as Shalimar and Mitsouko.
Jean-Paul Guerlain began his training in perfumery at a young age, following in his family's footsteps. At sixteen, he lost his sight and had to leave school. He spent his time at home, developing his sense of smell and working on his perfumery skills. In 1955, at eighteen, he started working for the Guerlain company, where his uncle, Jean-Jacques Guerlain, became his mentor. He learned the art of perfumery from the ground up, starting as a bottle washer and eventually becoming a master perfumer. His talent for creating fragrances was recognized early on, and he went on to create many of the brand's modern classics.
Jean-Paul Guerlain's masterpieces include the men's fragrance Habit Rouge (1965), Chant d'Arômes (1962), Chamade (1969), Nahema (1979), Jardins de Bagatelle (1983), and Samsara (1989). Chamade, a women's fragrance, is a green floral-oriental—a rare genre. It opens with aldehydes, bergamot, jasmine, hyacinth, black currant, and galbanum. In the middle, it has rose, lily-of-the-valley, lilac, clove, ylang-ylang, and jasmine. The base notes are amber, sandalwood, tonka, vetiver, vanilla, musk, and iris.
Jean-Paul Guerlain also created other popular fragrances for the brand, including Vetiver, which became a signature scent, Champs Elysees, and Aqua Allegoria Herba Fresca. In addition to his work as a perfumer, he was involved in the management of the company and served as its chairman from 1988 to 1996, playing a crucial role in its international expansion. He retired in 2002 but continued as an advisor until 2010 when he was terminated due to racist remarks made on French television.
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Chamade's longevity and intensity
The longevity and intensity of Chamade by Guerlain seem to vary depending on the wearer and the weather. While some users report that the perfume lasts about 6-8 hours, others claim that the newer formulations do not have high longevity and intensity. One user notes that the vintage version of Chamade is more intense and long-lasting than the current version, which is weaker and more cheerful, making it more suitable for daytime everyday wear than for an evening out.
The intensity of Chamade is also influenced by the weather. One user observes that the perfume requires warmth and sunshine to reach its full potential, while another mentions that it is best suited for warm days and nights.
Chamade's intensity has been described as sharp, piercing, and dusty. The perfume has a complex composition that evolves over time, with notes of sandalwood, lilacs, clove-sprinkled rose, buttery ylang-ylang, and vanilla. The opening notes of aldehydes, galbanum, and lemons give way to a warm, spicy, and fuzzy glow. The heart of the fragrance is a tender, dusty bouquet, and the base notes add a touch of sweetness.
Overall, while the longevity and intensity of Chamade may vary depending on individual factors and the specific formulation, it is a complex and evolving fragrance that has stood the test of time.
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Frequently asked questions
Chamade is a floral-oriental scent with notes of hyacinth, jasmine, rose, lilac, lily-of-the-valley, ylang-ylang, sandalwood, vetiver, and vanilla.
Chamade was released in 1969 and was created by Paul Guerlain.
Yes, Guerlain released Chamade Homme in 1999. It has a spicy-floral scent profile.
Reviews for Chamade are generally positive, with many praising its complex and unique scent. Some reviewers note that it is a classic, elegant, and refined fragrance. However, some reviewers find it too old-fashioned.
Yes, reviewers have noted similarities between Chamade and other perfumes such as Chanel No. 19, Guerlain Mitsouko, and Hermès 24 Faubourg. The current formulation of Chamade is also said to resemble Guerlain's own Nahema.
