Seamus Hammond
Perfume is a substance that contains fragrant natural oils extracted from flowers, woods, and other synthetic sources. While perfumes are typically applied to the body to enhance one's attractiveness, certain fragrances may have therapeutic uses, such as treating diseases or affecting body functions, and are thus considered drugs under the law. The use of fragrances dates back to ancient Egypt, where scented oils were used for skin care and to mask body odour. Today, fragrances are prevalent in various consumer products, including perfumes, lotions, detergents, and other personal and household items. While perfumes primarily enhance one's sensory experience, certain fragrances with notes of cannabis, cocaine, or liquor may induce a narcotic effect, resembling an addictive or drug-like experience.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Definition | A substance, extract, or preparation for diffusing or imparting an agreeable or attractive smell, especially a fluid containing fragrant natural oils extracted from flowers, woods, etc., or similar synthetic oils. |
| Use | Perfumes are used in a wide variety of consumer products, ranging from the ‘fine fragrances’ applied directly to the skin, to perfumes used in creams, lotions, detergents, and many other personal and household products. |
| Fragrance products treated as drugs under the law | Products that are applied to the body and are intended for therapeutic uses, such as treating or preventing disease, or affecting the body's structure or function. |
| Fragrance products treated as cosmetics under the law | Products that are applied to a person's body to make the person more attractive. |
| Health risks | Perfume poisoning is rare, but it can cause redness, itching, sinus irritation, allergies, skin sensitivities, and harm over time. |
| Health risks for children | Exposure to the phthalates found in many perfumes during early childhood — or even in utero — may pose risks to children’s respiratory health. |
| Health benefits | Fragrances can boost moods, keep people alert, provide a feeling of calmness, and may even enhance the learning process. |
| Notes | Some perfumes have notes that can be described as narcotic, such as cannabis, cocaine, poppers, absinthe, cognac, and whiskey. |
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What You'll Learn
Fragrance products with therapeutic uses are treated as drugs
While perfume is not classified as a drug, fragrance products with therapeutic uses are treated as drugs under the law. The US Food and Drug Administration (FDA) determines a product's intended use based on factors such as claims made on the labelling, websites, and advertising, as well as consumer expectations.
If a product is intended to be applied to a person's body to make them more attractive, it is classified as a cosmetic under the law. Fragrance products that are regulated as cosmetics include perfumes, colognes, aftershaves, shampoos, shower gels, shaving creams, and body lotions.
However, if a product makes therapeutic claims, such as treating or preventing a disease or affecting the structure or function of the body, it is considered a drug. For example, if a massage oil is intended to relax muscles or relieve aches, it is classified as a drug. Similarly, "aromatherapy" products, such as essential oils, are considered drugs if they are marketed with claims of treating health problems or improving well-being.
Some fragrance products may have a narcotic effect, with notes of drugs like cannabis, cocaine, and poppers, or liquor like absinthe, cognac, and whiskey. These fragrances can be described as having a drug-like effect, but it is important to distinguish that the products themselves are not classified as drugs unless they make specific therapeutic claims.
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Fragrance ingredients are commonly used in other products
Fragrance ingredients are commonly used in a variety of products beyond perfume, cologne, and aftershave, and other scented cosmetics. These include shampoos, shower gels, shaving creams, and body lotions. Notably, even some products labelled as "unscented" may contain fragrance ingredients. Manufacturers may add a subtle fragrance to mask the unpleasant smell of other ingredients without giving the product a noticeable scent.
The term "fragrance" on product labels is a catch-all term for a mixture of chemicals designed to give products a specific scent. These mixtures can contain anywhere from a few to several hundred individual chemicals. Fragrance ingredients commonly include synthetic chemicals that provide a distinctive aroma and stabilize and prolong scents. For example, phthalates such as diethyl phthalate (DEP) are often used to help scents last longer, but they are associated with endocrine disruption and other health issues. Synthetic musks like galaxolide and tonalide provide products with a long-lasting scent but are also endocrine disruptors, which can affect human development, growth, and metabolism. Aldehydes are commonly used to produce fruity scents, but some, like acetaldehyde, are known carcinogens.
Fragrance ingredients in cosmetics must meet the same safety requirements as other cosmetic ingredients. While the law does not require FDA approval before they go to market, companies and individuals who manufacture or market cosmetics are legally responsible for ensuring their products are safe and properly labelled. If a cosmetic is marketed to consumers, it must have a list of ingredients, and in most cases, each ingredient must be listed individually. However, under U.S. regulations, fragrance and flavour ingredients can be listed simply as "Fragrance" or "Flavour."
The pervasive use of fragrances in everyday items makes exposure to these chemicals almost unavoidable. While it is difficult to completely avoid fragrances, consumers can minimize their exposure to harmful fragrance chemicals by buying products from transparent brands that disclose their fragrance ingredients and choosing Green Seal Certified products, which are formulated with safer ingredients.
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Fragrances can have a strong psychological impact
Fragrances are also commonly used in other products such as shampoos, shower gels, shaving creams, and body lotions. Even some products labeled "unscented" may contain fragrance ingredients. This is because the manufacturer may add just enough fragrance to mask the unpleasant smell of other ingredients without giving the product a noticeable scent.
Some fragrance products that are applied to the body are intended for therapeutic uses, such as treating or preventing disease, or affecting the structure or function of the body. Products intended for this type of use are treated as drugs under the law, or sometimes as both cosmetics and drugs. For example, if a massage oil claims to relieve aches or relax muscles, it is considered a drug. Similarly, if a product containing fragrances is marketed with statements such as "easing muscle aches" or "soothing headaches," it will be treated as a drug.
The intensity or threshold levels of fragrant molecules are governed by their respective olfactory or odorant receptors on the surface of olfactory receptor neurons. Some chemical compounds, such as thymol and sotolon, can be perceived at very low concentrations, while others cannot. The odor intensity or strength thus dictates the quantity of aroma compounds produced. Linalool and limonene are found in more than 50% of perfumery products, with linalool being one of the most frequently used aroma compounds.
While perfume poisoning is rare, there are some concerns about the potential health risks associated with fragrance products. Due to laws protecting fragrance manufacturers' trade secrets, many ingredients in commercially sold perfumes are not individually listed on the packaging. This lack of transparency has raised concerns about the potential chemical reactions that perfume can trigger in the body. Additionally, the scented ingredients in perfumes are often infused into alcohols, which can be toxic if swallowed in large amounts. Exposure to certain fragrances has been linked to skin sensitivities, allergies, and possible long-term harm.
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Perfume poisoning is rare
While perfume is not classified as a drug, some fragrance products that are applied to the body are intended for therapeutic uses, such as treating or preventing disease, or affecting the body's structure or function. Products with such intended uses are treated as drugs under the law.
Perfumes are used in various applications, including deodorants, laundry products, shampoos, and conditioners. These compounds include two groups: natural and synthetic. Natural perfumes are further divided into aromatic compounds and musk, which are extracted from plants, lichens, seaweed, and special oils obtained from different parts of a plant. Synthetic aromatic compounds are often used as alternative sources due to their low production costs and problems related to low product quality or lack of resources.
Perfumes contain a complex mixture of chemicals such as volatile organic compounds (VOCs), limonene, alpha-pinene, beta-pinene, ethanol, acetone, and acetaldehyde. While these chemicals are generally safe, there have been reports of perfume poisoning, especially in children who ingest a significant amount. However, it is important to note that immediate and irreversible damage to health caused by one-time perfume use is rare. In most cases, medical advice suggests providing the affected person with plenty of fluids and light snacks to prevent a dangerous drop in blood sugar levels.
Temporary allergic reactions to perfumes are not uncommon, and individuals can develop allergies to products they have used for years due to overexposure or changes in the formula's ingredients. Some of the adverse health effects associated with aromatic products include allergies, skin allergies, nervous system damage, migraine headaches, reproductive disorders, and in some cases, breast cancer.
It is worth noting that certain perfumes with notes of cannabis, cocaine, poppers, absinthe, cognac, or whiskey may be described as having a narcotic effect, providing a sensory experience that some might find overwhelming. However, this does not indicate that the perfume itself is a narcotic or an addictive substance.
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Fragrance products are exempt from FDA testing
The Federal Food, Drug, and Cosmetic (FD&C) Act does not require premarket approval by the FDA for cosmetics. However, the FDA does collect samples of cosmetic products for examination and analysis during cosmetic facility inspections, import inspections, and follow-ups to complaints associated with adverse events. The FDA also conducts research on cosmetic products and ingredients to address safety concerns.
Companies and individuals who manufacture or market cosmetics are legally responsible for ensuring their product's safety and proper labelling. The FDA advises manufacturers to use whatever testing is necessary to ensure the safety of their products and ingredients. The FDA has stated that the safety of a product can be adequately substantiated through reliance on already available toxicological test data on individual ingredients and product formulations with similar compositions.
Some fragrance products that are applied to the body are intended for therapeutic uses, such as treating or preventing disease, or affecting the body's structure and function. These products are treated as drugs under the law or sometimes as both cosmetics and drugs. For example, if a massage oil claims to relieve aches or relax muscles, it is considered a drug.
The Modernization of Cosmetics Regulation Act of 2022 (MoCRA) is the most significant expansion of the FDA's authority to regulate cosmetics since the FD&C Act was passed in 1938. MoCRA requires the FDA to publish a report summarizing the results of the assessment of the use of per- and polyfluoroalkyl substances ("PFAS") in cosmetic products and any associated risks. While MoCRA exempts certain small businesses from GMP, registration, and product listing requirements, these exemptions do not apply to manufacturers or facilities of products that regularly come into contact with the mucus membranes of the eye.
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Frequently asked questions
Perfumes are not drugs. However, they are chemical compounds that produce a smell or odour.
Some perfumes are regulated as cosmetics by the FDA. However, if a perfume is intended to treat or prevent disease, or to affect the structure or function of the body, it is treated as a drug under the law.
Perfumes are made up of fragrant molecules that interact with human olfactory receptors. They are infused with alcohols to preserve and stabilise the scent.
Perfumes can be harmful and cause perfume poisoning, although this is rare. Some chemicals in perfumes can increase the skin's vulnerability to absorbing carcinogens, alcohols, and petroleum.
Some perfumes have been described as having a narcotic effect, possibly due to the presence of notes such as cannabis, cocaine, poppers, liquor, or whiskey.
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