Lance Carson
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, or PEA, is a key ingredient in perfumery and is often used in rose perfumes. It is a synthetic rose odorant with a mild, fresh floral-rose scent. PEA is first identified in rose and is present in the natural scent of many flowers. It is a major component of rose oil, particularly in R. gallica L., which is widely grown in the countries of the former Soviet Union. PEA is also found in the natural rose materials of Rosa Centifolia, along with other rose alcohols such as citronellol, geraniol, and nerol. While PEA is a common ingredient in rose perfumes, other notes such as bergamot, cardamom, and lavender are also used to create unique, complex fragrances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Is PEA used in rose perfumes? | Yes |
| What is PEA? | Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol |
| What is its scent like? | Mild, fresh, floral-rose |
| What are its uses? | Used in perfumery, cosmetics, and food industry |
| Is it natural? | Yes, it is first identified in rose and is present in the natural scent of many flowers |
| Is it soluble in water? | Yes, slightly soluble in water, particularly hot water |
| Is it stable? | Yes, but can develop a phenyl acetaldehyde note if stored for long, especially in warm conditions |
| Is it safe? | No Safety Data Sheet (SDS) documentation available |
| Where can I buy it? | Pell Wall |
| Are there any similar products? | Yes, PEA with 10% Rose Crystals |
| Are there any perfumes with both rose and pea notes? | Yes, Eau de parfum 101: rose, sweet pea, white cedar by Bon Parfumeur Paris |
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What You'll Learn
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol (PEA) is a synthetic rose odorant
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, also known as PEA, is a synthetic rose odorant. It is a synthetic aromatic alcohol with a mild, warm, rose-like odour that is widely used in perfumery for its excellent blending properties and broad olfactive compatibility. It is one of the most useful materials in perfumery due to its olfactory neutrality, low allergenicity, and high formulation compatibility. It is also quite stable and has a long shelf life.
PEA was first identified in roses and is present in the natural scent of many flowers, including rose oil, champaca, and geranium. However, natural extraction is often economically unfeasible for industrial applications, so it is produced synthetically via petrochemical or biosynthetic pathways. In perfumery, it is used to enhance the structure of rose, balsamic, herbaceous, and aldehydic blends, and it is known for its versatility across different fragrance categories.
The odour profile of PEA is mild, warm, and floral with notes of rose and honey. Lower-quality grades may have earthy or green top notes resembling hyacinth or gassy scents. PEA is slightly soluble in water, especially hot water, which means that when natural rose otto is distilled, most of the PEA is lost in the water instead of making it into the oil. Therefore, perfumers typically add PEA back to the composition when using rose otto, usually about four times the amount of otto.
PEA is also available with 10% rose crystals already added, which can enhance its rosy scent and make it last longer. This form of PEA is commonly used in "everyday" perfumery due to its low cost, versatility, and general acceptability. Overall, PEA is a valuable ingredient in the creation of rose perfumes and other floral fragrances due to its naturalistic floral tone and excellent blending properties.
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PEA is a natural scent in many flowers
Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, or PEA, is a naturally occurring scent molecule found in roses. It was first identified in roses but is present in the natural scent of many flowers. PEA is one of the most useful materials in perfumery due to its mild, fresh, floral-rose scent, which can be adapted to resemble other flowers when used in combination with different materials. For example, PEA can be combined with rose crystals to enhance its rose-like scent.
PEA is also found in sweet pea flowers, which are cherished for their delightful fragrance. The sweet pea, or Lathyrus odoratus, is native to the Mediterranean region and is known for its fragrant flowers. While all sweet peas have a delightful scent, some are more intensely fragrant than others. The fragrance of sweet peas is determined by six major components and 12 minor ones, and it is the combination of these ingredients that creates their delightful perfume. Sweet pea flowers come in a variety of colours, from vibrant shades of pink to cream with a delicate lavender edge, and their enchanting scent is best appreciated on a dry, sunny day.
PEA is also present in other flowers, such as honeysuckle, jasmine, and tropical tiare. It has a soft, fresh, rose-green scent that can be blended with other fragrances to create a unique perfume. In addition to its use in perfumery, PEA is also used in aroma chemicals and liquids, such as rosewater.
While PEA is a naturally occurring scent molecule, it can also be synthesized for use in perfumery. Synthetic PEA is quite stable, but it can develop a phenyl acetaldehyde note if stored for long periods, especially in warm conditions. Natural PEA is slightly soluble in water, particularly hot water, which means that when natural rose otto is distilled, most of the PEA is lost in the water and does not make it into the oil. As a result, perfumers typically add PEA back to the rose otto to enhance its scent.
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Rose oil is widely used in perfumery
The predominant rose species used worldwide for the production of rose oil is the thirty-petalled R. damascena Mill. forma trigintipetala Dieck. Other species grown for their oil include R. gallica, R. centifolia, R. alba, and R. rugosa. The yield and composition of rose oil obtained from the flowers are influenced by various factors, including geography, soil type, climate, picking time, storage conditions, and technology used. The genotype plays a crucial role in determining the chemical profile of the oil when all other conditions remain constant.
In the first half of the 20th century, chemists identified the key components of rose oil, which include "rose alcohols" such as citronellol, geraniol, nerol, linalool, eugenol, phenylethyl alcohol (PEA), and their esters. Phenylethyl alcohol (PEA), first identified in roses, is a useful synthetic ingredient in perfumery. It has a mild, fresh floral-rose scent that can be combined with other materials to create a variety of floral fragrances. However, PEA is slightly soluble in water, especially hot water, so when natural rose otto is distilled, much of the PEA is lost, and perfumers usually add it back to the composition.
To create long-lasting rose fragrances, chemists employ techniques to increase the molecular weight of the scent molecules while retaining their spatial shape. For example, replacing the prenyl group with the heavier phenyl group results in a heavier compound with a longer-lasting scent while maintaining the same olfactory profile. Synthetic rose odorants like Doremox and Rosyrane are examples of these weighted analogues, which offer nuanced fruity or metallic aspects to the traditional rose scent.
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Rose otto distillation loses PEA in water
Phenylethyl alcohol, also known as PEA or phenyl ethyl alcohol, is a useful synthetic ingredient in perfumery. It was first identified in roses and is present in the natural scent of many flowers. It has a mild, fresh floral-rose scent that can be adapted to smell like other flowers when used in combination with different materials.
Rose otto, or rose oil, is obtained through the double distillation of rose flowers. The yield and composition of rose oil are influenced by various factors, including the geographic area, soil, climate, moment of picking, storage conditions, and technology parameters. Due to the complexity of its composition, international standards serve as a rough guide for characterizing rose oil.
During the distillation process of natural rose otto, most of the PEA is lost in the water and does not make it into the oil. This is because PEA is slightly soluble in water, especially hot water. To compensate for this loss, perfumers typically add PEA back to the rose otto, using about four times the amount of PEA as otto.
PEA is quite stable, but it can develop a phenyl acetaldehyde note if stored for an extended period, particularly in warm conditions. If this occurs, the PEA should be replaced. Overall, PEA is a valuable ingredient in perfumery, contributing to the creation of desirable floral scents, especially in rose perfumes.
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Rose is a man-made cultivar
While searching for the use of pea in rose perfumes, I came across Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol (PEA), which is a synthetic rose odorant with a mild, fresh floral-rose scent. PEA is one of the most useful materials in perfumery and was first identified in roses. It is present in the natural scent of many flowers and can be easily combined with other materials to create different floral scents.
Now, onto the topic of whether "rose is a man-made cultivar".
The rose is a man-made cultivar, with a history dating back thousands of years. The roses we know today are man-made cultivars of the biological genus Briar or Wild Rose (Rosa), which belongs to the Rosaceae family. Roses are believed to have been cultivated in the Middle East over five thousand years ago and were also grown in ancient India, China, Crete, and Egypt. The cultivation of roses has since spread worldwide, particularly in temperate climates.
The vast majority of rose varieties are obtained through breeding techniques such as crossing and selection. There are about 400 species of Briar and an estimated 10 to 50 thousand varieties of roses. The predominant rose species used for rose oil production is the thirty-petalled R. damascena Mill., which is native to the Middle East. Other commonly cultivated species include R. gallica, R. centifolia, R. alba, and R. rugosa.
The rose is not just prized for its beauty but also for its industrial uses. Perfumery is the main consumer of rose oil, and the yield and composition of the oil depend on various factors such as geography, soil, climate, picking time, storage, and technology. Chemists have been working to identify and separate the components of rose oil, which contains "rose alcohols" like citronellol, geraniol, nerol, linalool, eugenol, phenylethyl alcohol (PEA), and their esters.
To create long-lasting rose fragrances, chemists use techniques to increase the molecular weight of the scent compounds, making the molecules heavier while retaining their shape and olfactory profile. This results in synthetic rose odorants like Doremox and Rosyrane, which have similar scents to natural rose but with enhanced longevity.
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Frequently asked questions
PEA, or Phenyl Ethyl Alcohol, is a synthetic ingredient used in perfumery. It was first identified in roses and is present in the natural scent of many flowers.
PEA has a mild, fresh, floral-rose scent. It can be combined with other materials to create a scent reminiscent of other flowers.
Yes, PEA is used in rose perfumes to enhance the natural scent of roses. It is particularly useful in perfumery as it is slightly soluble in water, especially hot water, so it needs to be added back to the oil after distillation.
While I cannot confirm the specific ingredients used in rose perfumes, some rose perfumes include Eau de Parfum 101: Rose, Sweet Pea, White Cedar by Bon Parfumeur Paris, and Love Beauty and Planet Cherry Blossom & Tea Rose by destinyslotus.
Yes, there are other synthetic rose odorants that chemists have created to have a similar smell to roses but with a longer-lasting effect. Some examples include Doremox, Rosyrane, and Pomarose.
