Creating Unique Colognes: An Easy Or Complex Process?

Creating your own cologne can be a fun and rewarding experience, but it does require some knowledge and experimentation. The process involves blending different levels of scent or notes – top, middle, and base notes – in specific ratios to create a unique fragrance. While it may seem daunting at first, with the right ingredients, tools, and guidance, you can certainly make your own cologne at home.

The first step is to familiarise yourself with the different types of notes and their popular ingredients. Top notes, which are the first scent you smell and disappear within 15 minutes, include options like basil, bergamot, and lavender. Middle notes, which form the core of the fragrance, can be black pepper, cinnamon, or rose, among others. Base notes, such as cedarwood or vanilla, accentuate the middle notes and provide the lasting power of the cologne.

Once you've decided on the notes you want to use, it's time to gather your materials. You'll need a carrier oil like jojoba or almond oil, high-quality alcohol (vodka is a popular choice), and your chosen essential oils or fragrance ingredients. You'll also need dark glass containers to store your cologne and protect it from light, as well as a small scale to measure your ingredients accurately.

The process of creating your cologne involves combining your chosen notes in the correct ratios, adding them to the carrier oil, and then mixing in the alcohol. It's important to let the cologne sit for at least 48 hours, or even up to 6 weeks, to allow the scent to mature. You can then add water and shake vigorously to blend the ingredients before transferring your cologne to its final bottle.

While making your own cologne does require some time and experimentation, it can be a rewarding way to create a unique fragrance that suits your taste and personality.

Choosing base notes

Choosing the base notes for your cologne is an important step in the perfume-making process. Base notes are the foundation of the fragrance, giving it depth and longevity. They are the last to appear but have the longest-lasting scent, lingering on the skin for six hours or more.

When choosing your base notes, it's important to select rich and heavy fragrance notes. Popular options include vanilla, amber, musk, patchouli, moss, and woody notes like sandalwood and cedarwood. These base notes will sink into your skin and their scent will evolve over time, so it's important to consider how they will blend with the other notes in your cologne.

You can also get creative and experiment with less common base notes. For example, if you're looking for a unique twist, you could try using tobacco, leather, or cinnamon as your base.

Base notes typically make up about 5-10% of your cologne. However, this is not an exact formulation, so you can adjust the proportions to your preference.

When blending your cologne, it's best to start with the base notes and then add the middle and top notes. This will help you create a well-balanced fragrance where each note has a purpose and evokes a specific feeling.

Selecting a carrier oil

Making your own cologne can be a fun and rewarding experience, and it's certainly not impossible. You can create your own unique fragrance using essential oils, fragrance oils, vodka or ethyl alcohol, and other ingredients. But one of the most important components of your cologne will be the carrier oil.

Carrier oils are base materials that "carry" the scent of your cologne and play a crucial role in your final product. Here are some things to consider when selecting a carrier oil:

Protection:

Carrier oils help protect the wearer by diluting essential oils, which can be harmful when applied directly to the skin. Essential oils can be caustic, contain allergens, or cause skin irritation. Diluting them in a carrier oil reduces these risks.

Scent Projection and Longevity:

The type of carrier oil you choose will affect how your cologne projects and how long it lasts. Alcohol-based carriers, for example, will carry the scent further as the alcohol evaporates and takes the fragrance with it. On the other hand, oil-based carriers will keep the scent closer to the skin as the oil soaks into the pores. Oil-based carriers tend to last longer but have a shorter range.

Moisturising Properties:

Another factor to consider is the moisturising effect of the carrier oil. Unlike alcohol, which can dry out the skin, oil-based carriers will moisturise the skin. Fractionated coconut oil is a popular choice for perfume-making as it is clear, thin, and less greasy than other oils. It also has an indefinite shelf life.

Ease of Use:

When selecting a carrier oil, consider the ease of use and your preferred method of application. If you want to create a spray cologne, you will need to use alcohol as a base. Oil-based carriers are better suited for roll-on or splash-on applications.

Cost and Availability:

Some carrier oils can be more expensive or difficult to source than others. Compare prices and availability before making your decision. You can find various carrier oils online or at specialty stores.

Experimentation:

Don't be afraid to experiment with different carrier oils to see which one works best for your cologne. You can create small batches with different carriers and compare the results.

In summary, selecting a carrier oil is an important step in creating your own cologne. Consider factors such as protection, scent projection, longevity, moisturising properties, ease of use, cost, and availability when making your decision. Remember to have fun and enjoy the process of crafting your unique fragrance!

Adding essential oils

The fun part of making your own cologne is playing around with different essential oils to create a unique scent. However, it can be tricky to pick a favourite from the many options available.

Top Notes

Top notes are the first thing you'll smell in a composition and tend to be the most volatile, with very high sillage. Examples include:

• Lemon
• Orange
• Grapefruit
• Lime
• Bergamot
• Spearmint
• Peppermint
• Wild orange
• Lemongrass
• Basil
• Siberian fir
• Lavender
• Coriander
• Palmarosa
• Marjoram
• Basil
• Rosemary
• Rose geranium
• Pettitgrain

Middle Notes

Middle notes appear once the top note disappears and help to blend the scents together. Examples include:

• Cardamom
• Ylang ylang
• Jasmine
• Rose
• Coriander
• Palmarosa
• Marjoram
• Basil
• Rosemary
• Rose geranium
• Petitgrain
• Lavender
• Geranium
• Lotus flower
• Sandalwood
• Frankincense
• Cedarwood
• Sandalwood
• Copaiba
• Clove
• White fir

Base Notes

Base notes are the foundation of a fragrance and last the longest on the skin. Examples include:

• Patchouli
• Vetiver
• Frankincense
• Cedarwood
• Sandalwood
• Sandalwood
• Tonka bean
• Violet leaf
• Vanilla
• Douglas fir
• Oakmoss
• Musk
• Myrrh
• Rose
• Rosewood
• Tobacco
• Vanilla
• Ylang-ylang
• Leather
• Cinnamon
• Clove
• Ginger
• Helichrysum
• Jasmine

Blending

When blending essential oils, remember that not all notes go together, so it's important to experiment. Start by adding a few oils one by one and mixing. It's recommended to use no more than 30 drops total, and if one scent is much stronger than the rest, use less.

Ratios

The ratio of base, middle, and top notes you use will depend on the type of profile you're trying to create. A good starting point for a DIY beginner is the basic pyramid accord, which is 60% base notes, 30% middle notes, and 10% top notes. Alternatively, you can try a ratio of 20% base, 50% middle, and 30% top notes.

Diluting with alcohol

Perfumer's alcohol is the best option for diluting your cologne. This is a blend of alcohol and some additives used as a base for perfumes. It is also good for evaluating the odour profile of your materials when training your nose. The most widely used and recommended variant is SD-40b, a specific grade denatured with tert-butyl alcohol. This is considered a cosmetic grade alcohol, which is safe for use in cosmetic products. If you cannot obtain SD-40b, look for Perfumer's Alcohol from a trusted manufacturer with the stated use case of making perfumes.

If you are having trouble obtaining perfumer's alcohol, you can use 190-proof Everclear, a brand of extremely high-proof grain alcohol. This is suitable for use in perfumery as it is food grade. However, this would not be used in the industry, as they use SD-40b. Vodka is not a suitable substitute, as it is usually only around 40% alcohol, which is not a high enough proof for perfumery.

When diluting, it is important to always use a scale, rather than measuring by drops. A jewellery scale is a good option for beginners and hobbyists, which can be purchased for less than £10. For 10g of material at 10% dilution, you will need 1g of the material and 9g of the diluent (alcohol or DPG).

Diluting your cologne with alcohol will help to carry the scent further, as the alcohol evaporates and takes some of the fragrance with it. This is why a little goes a long way with alcohol-based perfumes. However, what you gain in projection, you lose in longevity, as the scent will not last as long as an oil-based fragrance.

Storing in dark glass bottles

When making your own cologne, storing your creation in dark glass bottles is an important consideration. Here are some detailed tips on how to properly store your cologne in dark glass bottles:

• Keep the bottles away from direct sunlight: Sunlight can quickly degrade your cologne, so it is best to store the bottles in a dark place. If you want to display the bottles, consider using blackout curtains to minimise direct sunlight exposure.
• Store in a cool, dark location: Find a place with a consistent temperature, avoiding extreme heat or cold. A hallway or bedroom closet is generally a good option, as long as it is not near a window or drafty area.
• Avoid humidity: Humidity can negatively impact the quality of your cologne. Do not store the bottles in the bathroom, as the heat and steam from showers can affect the cologne. Instead, opt for a dry room with minimal humidity.
• Use boxes for extra protection: Before placing the bottles in storage, put them in boxes. This adds an extra layer of protection from light and temperature fluctuations. Ensure that the caps on the bottles are tightly sealed to prevent leaks.
• Keep the bottles on lower shelves: If you choose to display your cologne on shelves, avoid placing the bottles on high shelves. This reduces the risk of accidents, as fragile bottles can easily shatter if knocked over or dropped.
• Use travel containers: If you plan to travel with your cologne, invest in travel-friendly containers. Transferring a small amount into a separate bottle reduces the risk of losing your entire batch of cologne during travel.

Frequently asked questions