Exploring Cologne, Germany: A Worthwhile Adventure?

Cologne, Germany is a city steeped in history, with a rich cultural heritage and a vibrant food and drink scene. But is it worth visiting? Well, that depends on who you ask. Some say it's one of the ugliest cities in Europe, with nothing to offer the average tourist. Others claim it's a cultural hub with stunning architecture, great food and drink, and a lively nightlife scene. So, let's explore both sides of the argument and let you decide whether Cologne is worth adding to your travel itinerary.

The city's Roman history

Cologne, Germany, is one of the country's oldest cities, with a rich Roman history. It was founded in 38 BCE when the Roman general Agrippa established a fortified settlement on the site. The settlement was established for the Ubii, a tribe from the right bank of the Rhine. This was the birthplace of Julia Agrippina, also known as Agrippina the Younger, who was the wife of Emperor Claudius. In 50 CE, at her request, the settlement was elevated to the status of a city under Roman law and named "Colonia Claudia Ara Agrippinensium", later shortened to Colonia.

Colonia became an important city in the Roman Empire. It was made the headquarters of the governor of Lower Germany and, in 258 CE, it became the capital of a splinter empire ruled by Postumus, comprising Gaul, Britain, and Spain. In 310 CE, Emperor Constantine the Great built a castle and a permanent bridge across the Rhine. The city was also known for its manufacturing of ceramics and glass during Roman times.

The Romans built an impressive aqueduct in 80 CE to bring fresh spring water to Cologne from the nearby hills. Known as the Eifel Aqueduct, it was one of the longest aqueducts in the Roman Empire, stretching over 95 kilometres. Sections of this aqueduct can still be seen today in the countryside outside the city.

Cologne's Roman history is also evident in its collection of Romanesque churches. The Great St Martin Church, for example, was built on an island in Roman times, on top of ancient warehouses whose bases can still be seen today. The Romano-Germanic Museum in the heart of Old Town showcases a large collection of Roman artefacts, including glass, amphorae, jewellery, and mosaics.

The Praetorium, discovered under the City Hall, was once the headquarters of the Roman army and later a magnificent palace that housed the Roman governors. Visitors can explore the foundations and old Roman walls illuminated with coloured lights, as well as a tunnel 10 metres underground that leads to a narrow Roman sewer canal.

Cologne's long and fascinating Roman history is an integral part of the city's identity, with vestiges of the past scattered throughout, from Roman towers and city walls to underground sewers and museums showcasing the glorious Roman past.

Cologne Cathedral

The cathedral is a Catholic Church and the seat of the Archbishop of Cologne and of the administration of the Archdiocese of Cologne. It is open daily from 6 am to 8 pm. Visitors can climb 533 steps to a viewing platform about 100 metres above the ground, which offers a scenic view over the Rhine. The cathedral is known for its exceptional artistic masterpieces, including the 12th-century Shrine of the Three Kings, the 10th-century Gero Crucifix, and the 14th-century Mailänder Madonna.

The construction of Cologne Cathedral began in 1248 but was halted around 1560 and left unfinished. Attempts to complete the construction began around 1814, but the project was not properly funded until the 1840s. The edifice was completed to its original medieval plan in 1880. The cathedral's twin spires were an easily recognisable landmark for Allied aircraft during World War II, and the cathedral suffered 14 hits by aerial bombs during the war.

Local food and drink

Cologne is known for its unique Kölsch beer, which is brewed in a manner unique to the region. There are around 13 breweries in the city that produce it, the most famous being Früh, Gaffel and Reissdorf. It is served in tiny 0.2-litre tumblers, which are known as a source of ridicule among the rest of the country.

Cologne also has its own brand of Brauhaus cuisine, which isn't served elsewhere in Germany. Many of the city's dishes have baffling and flowery titles that even other Germans would fail to understand. For example, Halve Hahn, which translates to 'half a rooster', is actually a rye roll with butter, mustard and a slab of Dutch cheese. Himmel un Ääd, or 'heaven and earth', is another local dish. The 'earth' is mashed potatoes, and the 'heaven' is a thick, chunky applesauce, served with black pudding and fried onions. Eisbein, or Hämmche, is a salt-cured knuckle of pork, and is another local speciality.

Other local dishes include Mettbrötchen, a bread roll with raw minced pork, raw onion, salt and pepper; Reibekuchen, potato pancakes served with dark rye bread and salmon; and Erbsensuppe, a pea soup that is often eaten during outdoor events.

Christmas markets

Cologne, Germany's fourth-largest city, is known for its Christmas markets. The city hosts a holiday extravaganza with seven distinct markets, each with a unique theme and special features. The biggest and most popular market is held in the shadow of the city's symbol, Cologne Cathedral, where over 4 million visitors are expected each year. The market features food stands, a stage for performances, and stalls selling handcrafted gifts, festive delicacies, and traditional Christmas decorations.

Another popular market is Heinzel's Winter Fairytale, which stretches through the Alter Markt and Heumarkt squares in Cologne's Old Town. This market plays on a local legend in which gnomes help craftsmen with their work and features an ice rink and a large beer hall. For those looking for traditional handicrafts, this market offers a range of woodcarvings and other handmade goods.

The Harbour Christmas Market is located on the banks of the Rhine River in the grounds of the Chocolate Museum. The booths are topped with pointed white tents, and the beverage stands are designed as massive wooden ships, creating a fun pirate theme.

The Markt der Engel, or Angels' Market, is located in a busy shopping district in the city centre. This market boasts sprawling lanes and a wide variety of shops, including ornament stores. It is also known for women dressed as angels who float through the crowds.

The Stadtgarten Christmas Market is tucked away from the touristy part of town in the Stadtgarten, Cologne's oldest park. This market is particularly popular with locals and is known for its stylish accessories and gifts from young fashion designers and artists. It is also the place to find the best-tasting gluhwein, a hot mulled wine with citrus and spices.

In addition to these markets, Cologne also offers a Christmas Circus, China Lights at the Zoo, Advent concerts, and beautifully crafted Nativity scenes. The city is illuminated with festive lighting, creating a magical atmosphere for the holiday season.

The Belgian Quarter

The Quarter is known for its wide variety of cuisine and its bohemian, creative vibe. It is considered a fashionable and trendy place to live and is a hub for food, fashion, and art. It is home to many galleries and boutiques, as well as some of the city's best cafes, including Heilandt Kaffeemanufaktur, Salon Schmitz, Miss Päpki, and Café Belgique.

For nightlife, the Belgian Quarter has something for everyone. Little Link serves upscale cocktails, Grünfeld hosts Kölsch foosball battles, and Sixpack is the place to be for a last drink and dance when other venues are closing. There's also electronic music at Zum Scheuen Reh, hip-hop at Subway, and techno at Reineke Fuchs. Barracuda Bar, Wohngemeinschaft, and Zum Goldenen Schuss are recommended for a more chilled atmosphere.

Throughout the year, the Belgian Quarter hosts events celebrating food, fashion, art, and design. The Passagen Festival in January spotlights local designers, while Le Tour Belgique in April takes over the quarter for a weekend of DJ sets, live concerts, art exhibitions, lectures, and theatre performances.

If you're looking for somewhere to stay in Cologne, the Belgian Quarter is a great option, with hotels such as Flandrischer Hof, Hostel - die wohngemeinschaft, and Steigenberger Hotel Koln all located nearby.

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