Lance Carson
Ambergris is a highly valued ingredient in perfumery, used for hundreds of years. It is a natural, waxy substance produced in the intestines of sperm whales. It is also known as 'whale vomit' or 'floating gold' and is considered one of the world's strangest natural phenomena. Ambergris is often used as a fixative in perfumes, helping the scent last longer on the skin. While it is now mostly replaced by synthetic alternatives, it is still used in some perfumes, including Victoria's Secret Angel, which features notes of plum, pink pepper, oud, and ambergris.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Use in Angel perfume | Angel by Victoria's Secret uses ambergris as one of its base notes |
| Ambergris source | Secretion from the bile duct in the intestines of sperm whales |
| Colour | Ranges from grey to brown, with the purest form being white |
| Texture | Solid, waxy, flammable |
| Odor | Sweet, earthy, musky |
| Odor when fresh | Marine, manure-like, faecal |
| Odor when oxidised | Lighter, sweeter |
| Other uses | Cooking, medicine, incense, aphrodisiac |
| Synthetic alternatives | Ambroxide, Ambroxan |
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What You'll Learn
What is ambergris?
Ambergris is a solid, waxy, flammable substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. It is sometimes found in the abdomens of dead sperm whales. It is passed like faecal matter and is excreted from the animal. It is also known as "whale vomit", although this is a misnomer.
The substance is formed when a sperm whale consumes sharp objects, such as the beak of a giant squid. To protect itself, the whale makes ambergris around these sharp objects. Ambergris is passed out of the whale and floats on the sea for many years, during which it develops a sweet smell.
The longer ambergris is exposed to the sea, the better the quality is thought to be. When removed from the whale, it has a strong faecal smell. However, as the mass dries out, the scent becomes more pleasant and is often described as musky.
Ambergris has been used in perfumes for hundreds of years. It is highly valued by perfumers as a fixative that allows the scent to last much longer. It is also used in cooking. However, due to its scarcity and regulations supporting the protection of the sperm whale population, ambergris is rarely used in modern perfumery. Synthetic alternatives, such as Ambroxan, are now used instead.
Victoria's Secret Angel is one example of a modern perfume that uses synthetic ambergris. It is described as having a mild saltiness and a dark, rich and resinous feel.
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Why is it in Angel perfume?
Ambergris is a solid, waxy, flammable substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. It is passed like faecal matter and is expelled from the whale either through defecation or vomiting. It is also sometimes found in the abdomens of dead sperm whales.
Ambergris has been used in perfumes for hundreds of years. It is highly valued by perfumers as a fixative, allowing the scent to last much longer on the skin. It is particularly sought after for its unique animal notes, adding a hypnotizing essence to fragrances.
However, ambergris is rare and difficult to source. It often floats in the ocean for years before being found, and only an estimated 1% of sperm whales produce it. The slim chances of finding ambergris, coupled with legal ambiguity and the protection of the sperm whale population, have led perfume makers to favour synthetic alternatives, such as Ambroxan.
In Victoria's Secret Angel, ambergris is used as a base note to balance the fruity and floral elements of the fragrance. It adds a mild saltiness that, along with the mustiness of the oud and peppery notes, creates a unique, innocent, and angelic scent.
Overall, the inclusion of ambergris in Angel enhances the fragrance's longevity, depth, and captivating quality, making it a treasured ingredient in perfumery.
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How does it smell?
Ambergris is a highly valued perfume ingredient due to its ability to increase the longevity of a fragrance. It is a waste product of sperm whales, produced in their bile ducts and passed as fecal matter. It is sometimes found in the abdomens of dead sperm whales.
When first expelled by a whale, ambergris has a strong fecal smell, which some have likened to the scent of a stable before it has been cleaned out. It is jet black in colour, with a sticky texture similar to wet soft clay. Over time, the scent becomes lighter and more refined, developing a sweet, earthy fragrance. This process occurs as the ambergris floats in the ocean, where it is gradually oxidised by salt water and sunlight. The longer a piece of ambergris floats in the ocean, the lighter and sweeter its fragrance becomes.
The scent of ambergris has been described as ambery, musky, warm, and oceanic, with a tobacco leaf note. It is said to lend an exceptional sillage to a perfume, creating a trail behind the wearer.
The smell of ambergris is difficult to describe accurately, as each piece can vary, and different people react differently to the fragrance. However, it is generally considered to have a unique, deep, and mesmerizing scent.
While natural ambergris is highly prized, it is rare and expensive. As a result, synthetic alternatives such as ambroxide are now commonly used in the perfume industry.
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Where does it come from?
Ambergris is a highly sought-after substance that has captivated humans for centuries. Its origin, however, remained shrouded in mystery for a large part of human history. Various theories were proposed, including the belief that it was hardened sea foam, the droppings of large birds, or even a rare clay. It was only during the height of whaling in the 1600s in New England that the connection to whales, specifically sperm whales, was first made.
The substance is indeed produced by sperm whales, and only by about one per cent of them. It is formed in the bile duct in the intestines of these whales and is passed out of their systems, either through excretion or vomiting. This point is a subject of debate among experts. Some believe that the mass is expelled through the mouth when it becomes too large to pass through the intestines, while others posit that it is passed out along with faecal matter.
The process by which ambergris is formed is fascinating. Sperm whales are known to feed on large quantities of squid. Usually, the indigestible beaks of these squid are vomited out before digestion. However, in rare cases, these beaks can find their way into the whale's intestines. To protect its internal organs from the sharp beaks, the whale produces ambergris, a waxy substance, around them. This protective mechanism can have fatal consequences for the whale. Some theorise that the waxy mass remains inside the whale until its death, while others believe that the mass can grow so large that it eventually ruptures the whale's digestive tract, leading to the whale's demise.
Once expelled by the whale, ambergris often spends years floating in the ocean before making landfall. This lengthy oceanic journey is what transforms it into a prized possession. Over time, the initial strong faecal odour of the substance fades, giving way to a more pleasant, musky fragrance. The longer it remains at sea, the more refined its scent becomes. This transformation is what makes it so valuable to perfumers.
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Are there alternatives?
Ambergris is a highly valued ingredient in perfumery, but its use has declined due to its rarity, the difficulty of sourcing it, and ethical and environmental concerns. Synthetic alternatives, such as Ambroxan, have been developed to replicate the unique scent and fixative properties of ambergris.
Ambroxan, a synthetic replacement for ambergris, is now commonly used in modern perfumery. It is produced by breaking down ambrein, a terpenoid found in ambergris, through oxidation to create ambroxide, one of the main odor components of ambergris. This process results in a sustainable substitute that emits a similar woody-ambery scent with delicate animal notes.
Another natural alternative to ambergris is ambrette, also known as musk mallow or musk okra. Derived from the seeds of a hibiscus flower, ambrette has a heavy, musky scent with subtle floral undertones. It is often described as "white musk" and is known for its ability to blend well with other oils.
Vanilla, extracted from the beans of the vanilla orchid, is another popular base note in perfumery. With its sweet, warm, and bold aroma, vanilla is highly versatile and can be combined with other scents to create a wide range of fragrances.
These alternatives offer perfumers and consumers options that are more readily available, ethically sound, and environmentally friendly, while still providing the desirable scent and longevity that ambergris imparts to fragrances.
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Frequently asked questions
Ambergris is a solid, waxy, flammable substance produced in the digestive system of sperm whales. It is often found floating in the ocean or washed up on coastlines.
Ambergris has a unique, animal-like scent that adds depth to perfumes. It is also a strong fixative, meaning it helps the fragrance last longer on the skin.
Yes, ambergris is listed as one of the base notes of Victoria's Secret Angel perfume.
Ambergris is rare and difficult to source ethically. It is now mostly replaced by synthetic alternatives in modern perfumery due to regulations supporting the protection of the sperm whale population.
