Lance Carson
Aesop is a cosmetic niche house founded in Melbourne in 1987 by Dennis Paphitis. The brand has launched 16 perfumes, with the earliest edition created in 2005 and the newest from 2025. Aesop fragrances are developed to suit all genders and take inspiration from various sources, such as the full lifecycle of a rose or the sights and spices of Marrakech. Some of their popular fragrances include Hwyl, Tacit, Marrakech, and Gloam. With prices ranging from $200, Aesop perfumes are considered by some to be overpriced. However, the brand's unique and comforting scents have gained a cult following, with fans praising the longevity and versatility of their fragrances.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Number of perfumes | 16 |
| First edition | 2005 |
| Latest edition | 2025 |
| Perfumers | Céline Barel, Barnabé Fillion |
| Popular perfumes | Tacit, Hwyl, Marrakech, Gloam, Aurner |
| Unisex perfumes | Hwyl, Tacit |
| Price | $200 |
| Worth it? | Depends on personal preference |
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What You'll Learn
Aesop's Tacit: worth the 10-year wait?
Aesop's Tacit is the brand's first fragrance in 10 years. The perfume has received positive reviews, with some people claiming to be "'obsessed' with it. The scent is described as warm and inviting, with a unique blend of citrus, basil, and vetiver. The top notes are yuzu and citruses, followed by a middle note of basil and base notes of vetiver and cloves.
The fragrance is inspired by the culture, topography, and perfumed vegetation of the Mediterranean coast. It is meant to evoke a sense of familiarity with its citrus notes while also being contemporary and liberal with its use of Basil Grand Vert. The name 'Tacit' refers to knowledge that is implicitly understood rather than communicated directly, alluding to an elusive quality that is more readily experienced than articulated.
Some reviewers have noted that the perfume is subtle, understated, and grassy, with earthy undertones that balance well with the citrus and basil. It is neither too masculine nor feminine, making it suitable for both day and night wear. The scent has also been described as fresh, green, and woody, with a unique blend of aromatic spices and earthy components.
While some reviewers are fans of the scent, others find it underwhelming, especially given the high price point. Some comment that the fragrance is not particularly groundbreaking, loud, or unusual, and the projection is nonexistent. The longevity of the scent is also questioned, with some finding that it fades quickly, while others claim it lasts around 12 hours.
Overall, whether or not Aesop's Tacit is worth the 10-year wait depends on individual preferences. While some find the scent unique and captivating, others may find it generic and underwhelming, especially considering the price.
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The price tag: is it justified?
The price tag of Aesop perfumes has been a topic of discussion among customers. Some people find the perfumes to be overpriced, especially considering that the bottles are quite plain and simple in their design. However, others argue that the price is justified by the quality and longevity of the fragrances.
For example, one of Aesop's most popular perfumes, Tacit, has received mixed reviews regarding its price. Some customers feel that the $200 price tag is not justified, as they find the scent to be underwhelming or prefer perfumes with sweeter and more floral notes. On the other hand, others consider it a worthy investment due to its unique, subtle, and versatile character. They appreciate its ability to strike a balance between earthy and citrusy notes, making it suitable for both day and night wear.
Similarly, Aesop's Hwyl perfume, priced at $170, has sparked debates about its value for money. While some customers adore the scent and find it comforting, calming, and grounding, resembling the authentic smell of a forest, others are less impressed. Some reviewers describe it as too generic, with the initial smokiness and spice fading into a typical woody fragrance.
The brand's newest launch, Aurner, is also likely to spark similar discussions about its price tag. Developed in collaboration with perfumer Céline Barel, it is described as a non-conformist fragrance that blends vibrant notes of magnolia leaf, Roman chamomile, and cedar heart. While some may find this innovative and worth the price, others may prefer more traditional or longer-lasting fragrances.
Ultimately, the justification of Aesop's price tag depends on individual preferences and the specific scent in question. While some customers rave about the uniqueness and versatility of certain perfumes, such as Tacit and Aurner, others find them underwhelming or less appealing to their personal tastes. The longevity of the fragrances and the brand's attention to artistic and cultural inspirations in their creations also play a role in justifying the price for some customers.
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Hwyl: a unisex fragrance
Hwyl, a unisex fragrance by Aesop, is a unique and intriguing scent that evokes a range of experiences and emotions in its wearers. Launched in 2017, the perfume is described by the brand as "Smoky, Woody, Rich". The name "Hwyl" is derived from the Welsh word meaning joy, fun, and merriment.
The fragrance opens with smoky, spicy, and incensey top notes of thyme, elemi, pink pepper, and cloves. These initial scents give way to a warm and woody heart, featuring middle notes of cypress, suede, geranium, and pine. The base notes of vetiver, olibanum (also known as frankincense), oakmoss, cedar, and leather provide an earthy, sensual, and long-lasting finish.
One reviewer describes the scent of Hwyl as authentic and calming, reminiscent of summer cabins in Finland, with notes of smoke, earth, and wood. They find it to be a relaxing and grounding perfume, perfect for wearing at home. Another reviewer, however, had a less favourable impression, describing the perfume as an "aromatic abomination" and comparing the experience of smelling it to "licking the inside of a filing cabinet in a forsaken government office". They do acknowledge the brand's description of "a hint of eccentricity", but feel that the scent falls short of true eccentricity.
Hwyl by Aesop is part of the brand's range of fragrances designed to suit all genders. The brand draws inspiration from a variety of sources, such as the full lifecycle of a rose or the sights and spices of Marrakech, to create unconventional and distinctive scents.
Overall, Hwyl by Aesop is a polarising fragrance that evokes strong reactions from those who experience it. While some may find it calming and authentic, others may be put off by its distinct and acquired smell. Whether or not it is worth it may depend on individual preferences and the specific experiences and emotions that the scent evokes for the wearer.
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A cult following
Aesop's perfumes have garnered a cult following, with some fans even considering the brand's fragrances to be culty. The brand's first perfume, Marrakech, was described as "sexy", with prominent notes of sandalwood. The subsequent launch of Marrakech Intense leaned even further into this woody, smoky scent profile.
In 2015, Aesop released its second fragrance, Tacit, which quickly gained a following of its own. One reviewer described the scent as "subtle, understated, [and] refraining from sending off come-hither shockwaves", with a delicate balance of earthy, citrus, and basil notes. Another reviewer praised Tacit as "everything you could want from a green, citrus perfume and more", with an "elusive, almost indefinable quality".
Aesop's more recent launches, including Hwyl, Gloam, and Aurner, have also received attention from fragrance enthusiasts. Hwyl, a woody, spicy fragrance with notes of thyme, cypress, and vetiver, has been described as "calming and grounding". Gloam, a powdery fragrance with spicy undertones, has been praised for its longevity, although some have been deterred by its high price point. Aurner, the brand's newest launch, is a non-conformist fragrance that combines vibrant notes of magnolia leaf, Roman chamomile, and cedar heart.
The brand's perfumes are developed in collaboration with renowned perfumers such as Céline Barel, Barnabé Fillion, and Barnabe Fillion, and are inspired by cultural and artistic references, such as poetry and music. While some have criticised Aesop's fragrances as being overpriced, the brand's unique and carefully crafted scents have undoubtedly cultivated a dedicated following.
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The creative process
Aesop's creative process is characterised by a methodical exploration of fragrances, with a strong focus on the science of perfumery. The brand initially experimented with pure essential oils, systematically adjusting their concentrations and compositions to create distinctive scents. This scientific approach was necessary to overcome the challenge of working with volatile essential oils, ensuring their fragrances offered greater longevity on the skin.
The development of each fragrance is a collaborative effort, with perfumers like Céline Barel and Barnabé Fillion playing a pivotal role. For Aesop's newest launch, Aurner, Barel drew inspiration from the tension between vibrant key notes of magnolia leaf, Roman chamomile, and cedar heart. She emphasised the uniqueness of the creative process, allowing perfumers to push boundaries and propose unexpected combinations.
The brand's fragrances are carefully constructed using a combination of opening, heart, and base notes. The opening note, or top note, provides the initial aroma that fades within 10–30 minutes. The heart note, or middle note, is more complex and lingers longer, while the base note is the boldest aspect of the fragrance, leaving a lasting impression on the wearer.
Aesop's creative process also extends to the packaging and presentation of their fragrances. While some customers may find the bottles plain, the brand focuses on simplicity in appearance while delivering complexity in the formulation. This duality is a key aspect of Aesop's creative philosophy, reflecting their overarching aim to have people reconnect with the essentials of life.
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Frequently asked questions
Aesop perfumes have received mixed reviews. Some people consider them to be overpriced, while others are fans of the brand's unique and comforting scents. Ultimately, whether or not Aesop perfume is worth it depends on individual preferences.
Some popular Aesop perfumes include Tacit, Hwyl, Marrakech, Marrakech Intense, and Gloam.
Tacit is a subtle and understated scent with citrus and basil notes balanced by earthy undertones. It has been described as grassy, fresh, and suitable for both day and night wear.
Hwyl is a woody and spicy fragrance with notes of thyme, cypress, and vetiver. It has been described as smoky, incensey, and earthy, reminiscent of a forest or a wood workshop.
Aesop perfumes can be purchased online through the Aesop website or at select retail locations.
