Heidi Norton
With countless scents available, shopping for a new perfume can be overwhelming. The first step to finding your favourite fragrance is to understand the different scent families that every scent is based on. The four main types are warm, woody, oriental and fresh, with each effect brought out by different combinations of fragrances. For example, woody fragrances are a warm family with a mysterious and captivating scent, often favoured in aftershaves. Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet and a little spicy, and are considered a more luxurious fragrance family. Fresh scents generally rely on aquatic and citrus notes, while warm scents use more florals and juicy fruit fragrances. When it comes to choosing a perfume, you should also consider the different fragrance concentrations, which refer to the strength of a fragrance. The higher the concentration of oils, the longer the scent will last. Parfum, or perfume, has the highest concentration of essential oil extract, normally anywhere between 15% and 40%.
| Characteristics | Values |
|---|---|
| Concentration of fragrance oils | The higher the concentration of fragrance oils, the longer the scent will last and the higher the price. |
| Perfume type | Parfum, Eau de Parfum, Eau de Toilette, Eau de Cologne, Eau Fraiche, Perfume Oil |
| Top notes | The scent that is apparent immediately after spraying the fragrance. |
| Base notes | A richer scent that appears during the 'dry down' of the perfume and blends with the wearer's skin scent. |
| Skin type | Perfumes can smell different depending on skin pH and body chemistry. |
| Ingredients | Natural perfumes may contain different ingredients to synthetic perfumes. |
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What You'll Learn
Perfume concentration and strength
The strength of a perfume is determined by its fragrance concentration, which refers to the amount of fragrance oils it contains. The higher the concentration of oils, the purer the fragrance, and the longer it will last on your skin. Perfumes with a higher concentration of oils contain less alcohol and are therefore more expensive.
There are six main categories of perfume, each with a different concentration:
- Parfum / Extrait de Parfum: This has the highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically containing between 20% and 30% but sometimes as high as 40%. It is the most expensive type of perfume and usually lasts the longest, often up to 12 hours or more.
- Eau de Parfum (EDP): This type of perfume typically has a fragrance oil concentration of around 15-20%, although some sources place it as low as 10%. It is slightly less expensive than parfum and typically lasts for 4-8 hours.
- Eau de Toilette (EDT): Eau de Toilette usually contains 5-15% fragrance oil. It is cheaper than Eau de Parfum and has a shorter longevity, typically lasting for 2-7 hours.
- Eau de Cologne (EDC): With a fragrance oil concentration of just 2-5%, Eau de Cologne is one of the least expensive types of perfume. Its scent usually lasts for around 2 hours.
- Eau Fraiche: This is the lightest type of perfume, with a fragrance oil concentration of just 1-3%. It is perfect for those who want a subtle, delicate fragrance, but it only lasts for a couple of hours.
- Perfume Oil: This category has a fragrance oil concentration of 10-20%.
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Perfume categories and their notes
The four main perfume categories are warm, woody, oriental, and fresh. Each of these categories is brought out by different combinations of fragrances.
Warm Scents
Warm perfumes like DKNY's Be Delicious use more floral and juicy fruit scents. They can also include spices like cardamom, cinnamon, and vanilla, alongside the likes of jasmine, orchid, and orange blossom.
Woody Scents
Woody fragrances are warm and mysterious, often favoured in aftershaves. They use wood-based smells like cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, and amber. Woody fragrances are split into mossy woods with an earthy, sweet undertone, and dry woods with a smoky, leathery smell.
Oriental Scents
Oriental fragrances are warm, sweet, and a little spicy. They are a more luxurious fragrance family. Oriental perfumes vary from floral oriental, soft oriental, and woody oriental. Oriental notes are rich and exotic and are often found in base notes.
Fresh Scents
Fresh fragrances usually comprise citrus, water, and green notes. They have refreshing, zesty, and vibrant smells. Citrus-based fragrances are usually created with lemon, mandarin, and bergamot, while water fragrances are made with aquatic notes like sea spray. Fresh green fragrances are herbal and leafy, sometimes referred to as aromatic fougère fragrances, created with notes of lavender, rosemary, or basil.
Perfumes can also be categorised by their concentrations, which form different categories of perfumes. The majority of perfumes are either an eau de parfum or an eau de toilette in their concentration levels.
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How skin type affects scent
Skin type plays a significant role in how a perfume smells on an individual. The unique body chemistry of each person, including natural pH balance, moisture levels, and even dietary habits, creates a personal canvas that transforms fragrance molecules, resulting in a scent that is distinct to them.
Firstly, the pH level of the skin can impact the way a perfume smells. The pH of the skin is a mixture of water and sebum called the "hydrolipidic film". Skin that is more on the acidic side may find that fragrances become more subdued, while more alkaline skin can make the same scent smell sharper. Additionally, the texture of the skin can determine the longevity of a scent. Perfumes tend to cling better to well-moisturized or oily skin due to the presence of natural oils that capture and slowly release scent molecules. In contrast, drier skin may require more frequent applications of perfume as it lacks the natural elements that help retain fragrance, causing the molecules to evaporate quickly.
Secondly, an individual's diet and lifestyle can alter their skin chemistry, which in turn influences how a perfume smells on them. Foods with strong flavours, such as garlic and spices, can blend with other facets of an individual's biochemistry and create a unique formulation. Similarly, medications can influence body chemistry, including skin pH and moisture levels, and may affect perspiration patterns, ultimately transforming the fragrance.
Other factors that can influence how a perfume smells on the skin include an individual's natural body temperature, the surrounding environment, and their level of physical activity. These factors interact with the fragrance molecules, creating a scent that is highly personalized.
Lastly, it is important to remember that the scent of the skin is constantly evolving, and the same perfume may smell differently on the same person over time due to changes in their skin chemistry. This may be influenced by factors such as age, lifestyle, diet, and even hormonal fluctuations. Therefore, it is recommended to always try a perfume on the skin before purchasing it to ensure that it complements one's unique skin chemistry.
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Perfume ingredients and certifications
When it comes to perfume ingredients, there is a wide range of natural and synthetic substances that are used to create different scents. The ingredients can be derived from plants, flowers, fruits, spices, resins, and other aromatic compounds. Here are some common perfume ingredients:
- Aldehydes: These are organic compounds that can be found in natural materials or synthesized artificially. They are known for their fresh, green, and soapy scent with slight citrus undertones. Chanel No. 5 is a famous perfume that features aldehydes.
- Amber Oil: Derived from the fossilized sap of the Pinus Succubefera tree, amber oil has a rich, warm, sweet, and powdery fragrance. It is commonly used in oriental perfumes and is often a blend of synthetic and natural ingredients such as vanilla, patchouli, labdanum, styrax, and benzoin.
- Bergamot: Obtained from the bergamot orange, primarily grown in Italy, bergamot has a tangy, bright, and uplifting scent. It is a popular ingredient in both perfumes and colognes.
- Black Pepper: Derived from almost ripe peppercorns, black pepper adds a luxurious, sensual, spicy, and slightly woody note to perfumes.
- Calone: Calone is a synthetic chemical that imparts a fresh water-like or "sea breeze" note to perfumes, often used in water perfumes.
- Fir Balsam: Fir balsam has a fresh, woody, and coniferous scent with fruity tonalities, reminiscent of pine or spruce. It is commonly used in masculine fragrances.
- Frangipani: Frangipani is a fragrant tropical flower, also known as "West Indian Jasmine." Its oil is used in perfumes to create a lush, sophisticated floral fragrance.
- Frankincense: One of the oldest fragrance materials, frankincense is a gum resin from a tree found in Arabia and Eastern Africa.
In addition to these common ingredients, there are also various certifications and categories that perfumes fall under. These certifications relate to the concentration of fragrance oils and the overall strength of the perfume:
- Parfum or Extrait de Parfum: This category has the highest concentration of fragrance oils, typically ranging from 15% to 40%, with most parfums falling between 20% and 30%. Parfums have the longest-lasting scent, usually lasting six to eight hours or even up to 24 hours in some cases. They are often heavier and oilier and are recommended for people with sensitive skin due to their lower alcohol content.
- Eau de Parfum (EdP): This category has a slightly lower concentration of fragrance oils, ranging from 10% to 20%. Eau de parfums typically last for eight hours or more and are considered nightwear.
- Eau de Toilette (EdT): With a fragrance concentration of 5% to 15%, eau de toilettes are lighter and more affordable options. They typically last for two to four hours and are considered daywear.
- Eau de Cologne (EdC): Eau de colognes have a low concentration of fragrance, typically 2% to 4%, and a high concentration of alcohol. They are often used as a body splash to freshen up and usually last for up to two hours.
- Eau Fraiche: This is the lightest concentration with only 1% to 3% fragrance oil, creating a subtle and delicate fragrance that lasts for about two hours.
These categories provide a framework for understanding the strength and longevity of different perfumes, with higher concentrations of fragrance oils generally resulting in longer-lasting scents.
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How to layer scents
Layering scents is a great way to create a unique fragrance that reflects your personality and mood. It can be a daunting task, but with a little guidance, you can achieve exciting results. Here are some tips to help you get started:
Understand Fragrance Notes
Before layering perfumes, it's important to understand the different fragrance notes. Perfumes are typically composed of top notes, middle or heart notes, and base notes. Top notes are the initial scents you perceive when applying a fragrance, and they tend to be light and fleeting. Middle notes form the heart of the fragrance, adding depth and character. Base notes are the foundation of the perfume, providing longevity and depth to the scent. When layering, strive for a balanced blend that showcases each note harmoniously.
Choose Complementary Scents
When layering perfumes, select fragrances that complement each other. You can achieve this by choosing scents with similar notes or those from the same fragrance family. For instance, you could layer a vanilla-based perfume with a woody fragrance to enhance the warmth and richness of both scents. However, don't be afraid to experiment by combining scents from different fragrance families, such as pairing a citrusy top note with a floral middle note and a woody base note for a complex and intriguing olfactory experience.
Layer from Highest to Lowest Fragrance Intensity
When layering multiple perfumes, it's best to start with the strongest fragrance and then layer lighter scents on top. This allows the lighter fragrances to shine without being overpowered by their heavier counterparts. Eau de parfum, for example, should typically be applied first due to its higher concentration, followed by lighter options like eau de toilette or fragrance mists.
Experiment and Find Your Signature Scent
The beauty of layering scents is that it allows you to create a signature fragrance that is uniquely yours. Don't be afraid to experiment with different combinations and ratios. Start with small quantities of each fragrance to avoid an overpowering blend, and then adjust the proportions according to your preferences. You can also layer scented body products, such as lotions or body butters, with perfumes to increase the longevity of your custom scent.
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Frequently asked questions
The first step to distinguishing between different perfume scents is to understand the different scent families. The four main types are warm, woody, oriental, and fresh, with each effect brought out by different combinations of fragrances.
Warm fragrances often use more florals and juicy fruit scents. Woody fragrances use wood-based smells like cedarwood, sandalwood, vetiver, and amber.
Familiarize yourself with the different categories of scents and their notes. The nine main fragrance types are sweet, spicy, warm, musky, floral, oriental, woody, citrus, and aquatic.
